|
Whoever suggested P3 Coal Black, thank you. It was very useful for a group of evil warrior dudes from Warhammer I was painting. They will make excellent minions of whatever flavor of dark lord I use in my next game.    And with flash, becuase I still don't have a decent photo set-up at the moment:    
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2015 09:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 09:59 |
|
|
Finished up my first Mechanicus commission, saving me the money of getting the Dominus, which is a pretty nice model (but I didn't want to pay £22 for it)      More here: https://imgur.com/a/4hhjp Really need to find the battery for my DSLR, the focus on these could have been better. Also I want a new photo background - I'm working on some terrain I can put in the backgrounds to make them a little more interesting.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2015 18:53
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2015 19:01
|
|
|
Great painting, but I also really like the logo you've got krushgroove.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2015 20:01
|
|
|
Flavivirus posted:Don't suppose you could elaborate? I'm a painting novice and got a few of their alcohol-based paints in one of their big variety paint boxes. It'd be cool to know if there were was of getting more use out of them. Well, for starters you need to use a synthetic brush. You can only thin with alcohol and you should use >90%. Because of that, it dries really quickly and its helpful to have a little dropper of >90% nearby to keep your palette the right consistency. None of this requires additional steps though, but it takes getting used too and you need all the little equipment nearby to make it work. What does require planning around, is that the awesome luster of the paint is lost if you varnish over it. So you have a dilemma. Either you paint your alcohol metallics after you have painted everything else and varnished over everything, or you leave it unvarnished. I do something even more complicated: I do my base coats and finish my acrylics first, then varnish, and then do my highlights onto the varnish layer. This way I get good protection and good luster in the spots I really want. Does this make sense?
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2015 21:37
|
|
|
Weirdo posted:Great painting, but I also really like the logo you've got krushgroove. Thanks! And to you as well Skarsnik  The logo was done by a graphic artist friend of mine, I paid him a few quid and asked for some tweaks here and there, I like it quite a lot!
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2015 21:48
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:Well, for starters you need to use a synthetic brush. You can only thin with alcohol and you should use >90%. Because of that, it dries really quickly and its helpful to have a little dropper of >90% nearby to keep your palette the right consistency. None of this requires additional steps though, but it takes getting used too and you need all the little equipment nearby to make it work. For me it's worse, I need new synthetic brushes for starters. I also can't use my regular palettes because they won't work with a wet palette, and I don't clean my plastic tuperware lid palette. The alcohol will dissolve the dried paint. I don't have room to keep a palette just for alcohol paints, so I have to put one up and take out the other. It's not a huge deal, but I don't like organizing to begin with. I especially don't like organizing when I'm in my painting groove. I used the same process for varnishing though. Looks real nice. Krushgroove those are some good tiny mans. You've noticeably improved.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2015 21:58
|
|
|
I am glad I'm willing to give up built in luster for something apparently infinitely easier to use.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2015 22:14
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I am glad I'm willing to give up built in luster for something apparently infinitely easier to use. Yeah, I was going to go Liquid Gold, but I got lazy last week when a shiny new rack of the VGC paints appeared next to the GW paint rack.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2015 22:21
|
|
|
I mean more for like, you can get these really high end materials that, when used right, look amazing. I take comfort in materials that look not quite as good, but still better than standard paints, that are ridiculously simple to use. I like a 3/10 skill requirement for 7/10 payoff. I don't think it's super helpful to suggest a material that you wouldn't even use because it's frustrating or high effort, especially to anyone new. Might as well suggest those metals with wax in them that you actually polish.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2015 22:30
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:Well, for starters you need to use a synthetic brush. You can only thin with alcohol and you should use >90%. Because of that, it dries really quickly and its helpful to have a little dropper of >90% nearby to keep your palette the right consistency. None of this requires additional steps though, but it takes getting used too and you need all the little equipment nearby to make it work. Thanks, I'll bear all this in mind! ...though I might just stick to the non-alcohol paints for the time being till I build up the skillset.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2015 00:31
|
|
|
Yeah, all that is basically why I went for Scale75's metallics. They also have a way finer grain than most other metallics, so hopefully they'll end up looking cool. Unrelated, but what's with hobby shops that put their price tag right on top of the paint label so you can't see the name of the color? 
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2015 00:46
|
|
|
dmnz posted:My Goblin BSB with the Spider Banner for all of the poisoned shots. This banner rules.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2015 04:48
|
|
|
I dunno, I find it really easy. Grab a pot, put some on a plastic CD case or something, then paint away. You don't even need to worry about it drying up because alcohol will bring alive even dried alachol paint. About the only thing I do any different (outside of the synethic brushes, which you definitely do need) is add alachol to the palette every five minutes or so. It's definitely different and its totes ok to like other paints better, but I don't think it's as hard as we're making it sound.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2015 08:55
|
|
|
Not a viking posted:How big are the McFarlane dragons? Are they fit for 28 mm? I remembered to take some scale shots, hope these help. The small dudes in the front are a wood elf archer (kneeling) and the old metal Korhil, a GW Chariot base and a 6x5 movement tray for 20mm bases. I can take some more measurements if you'd like. These are all from Series 1 (though I think some were re-issued in different colours later). They all have some potential for posing, generally there's a joint in the head/neck and a limb or two.   Eternal Clan - the tallest of the figures, mainly 'cause of the scenic ruined hut for a base. Has a rider in approx 35mm scale?   Sorceror Clan   Fire Clan - this pose would be awkward for a rider unless you're going for a 'dragon about to eat rider' look.   Water Clan   Komodo Clan - Probably the smallest one all round, could probably be rebased on a chariot base or similar without issue.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2015 13:35
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:I dunno, I find it really easy. Grab a pot, put some on a plastic CD case or something, then paint away. You don't even need to worry about it drying up because alcohol will bring alive even dried alachol paint. About the only thing I do any different (outside of the synethic brushes, which you definitely do need) is add alachol to the palette every five minutes or so. How fast do you think alcohol paints would dry out in bone dry Colorado or Wyoming?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2015 15:29
|
|
|
What is the best way to figure out where shading should go on a miniature or model? I want to try painting a gundam with an 80's style pink/cyan setup. I have the perfect paint for this but I need to know where the cyan goes so the shading looks right.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 12:12
|
|
|
Think like a raytracing engine - imagine where the light source is, and where the shadows go. Of if that's too difficult, get a tiny directional light source, like one of those LED torch keyrings, and just... shine it on the mini from the right angle.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 12:39
|
|
|
What if I want it to look right from any angle?
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 12:51
|
|
|
Pretend your face is the light source. The parts you cant see are the parts in a shadow. Think 3rd person view in a video game. If you need it to look good at any angle you need proper lighting where its being displayed to exaggerate the features and cast darker shadows. If you are going for retro 80s you may want to do bolder black lines on the every edge and corner. Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Oct 18, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 12:58
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:What if I want it to look right from any angle? It wont unless you have the light source directly overhead.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 13:38
|
|
|
serious gaylord posted:It wont unless you have the light source directly overhead. I suppose this is why zenithal does the overhead spray. Well, good to know
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 15:33
|
|
|
Anyone know where I can get crash test dummies in 28mm scale? I want to make a proxy army 
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 20:29
|
|
|
Cross-posting from the Frostgrave thread. First real painting I've done in ages, bit messy. Zombie Wardog for a Necromancer warband, also a basing test. All the soldiers will be ice zombies / white walkers with a mostly monochrome palette.     Had to pin the dog with brass rod, the Malifaux canine remnants are ridiculous. As well as being impossble to attach to the base in a natural pose, they're tiny.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 20:57
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:Had to pin the dog with brass rod, the Malifaux canine remnants are ridiculous. As well as being impossble to attach to the base in a natural pose, they're tiny. Glad to see there's at least one range out there with fiddlier minis than Dark Age!
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 20:59
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Anyone know where I can get crash test dummies in 28mm scale? I want to make a proxy army Possibly eBob's armatures could work here? They're humanoid and have little detail to them, could be smoothed out or sculpted up it you have the patience. http://www.ebobminiatures.com/products/tools.htm
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 22:23
|
|
|
Zark the Damned posted:Possibly eBob's armatures could work here? They're humanoid and have little detail to them, could be smoothed out or sculpted up it you have the patience. http://www.ebobminiatures.com/products/tools.htm All the patience I have will go into converting non-human models for the force, so I vastly prefer actual CTDs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 22:31
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:All the patience I have will go into converting non-human models for the force, so I vastly prefer actual CTDs. Hasslefree's armatures are smoother, but still not quite what you're looking for I think. http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=male-armatures~hfl500&category=accessories~converting
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 22:47
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:What if I want it to look right from any angle? With what you're trying to accomplish you should really try and go for an ideal viewing angle.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 00:39
|
|
|
What's the trick for blending incredibly contrasting colors very quickly? Like when you see small armor plates going from crimson red to jet black. I can do this using several intermediate colors over a larger plate. I can't get it to look right at all when it's done within a few mm.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 00:53
|
|
|
JackMann posted:Whoever suggested P3 Coal Black, thank you. It was very useful for a group of evil warrior dudes from Warhammer I was painting. They will make excellent minions of whatever flavor of dark lord I use in my next game. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 01:41
|
|
|
Mugaaz posted:What's the trick for blending incredibly contrasting colors very quickly? Like when you see small armor plates going from crimson red to jet black. I can do this using several intermediate colors over a larger plate. I can't get it to look right at all when it's done within a few mm. Wet-blend it. In the specific case of red-black, the method Ben Komets uses in this video works really well, essentially doing a white-black blend and then glazing over it with red to get the right final coloration.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 02:41
|
|
|
quick check your pantry
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 06:47
|
|
|
Mugaaz posted:What's the trick for blending incredibly contrasting colors very quickly? Like when you see small armor plates going from crimson red to jet black. I can do this using several intermediate colors over a larger plate. I can't get it to look right at all when it's done within a few mm. Lots of very thin glazes. Builds the colour up gradually.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 11:36
|
|
|
stabbington posted:Wet-blend it. In the specific case of red-black, the method Ben Komets uses in this video works really well, essentially doing a white-black blend and then glazing over it with red to get the right final coloration. This is awesome, why have I never watched this dude's videos?
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 19:32
|
|
|
Time for more 'Ardboyz. I painted them in a more "uniform" style after painting every guy completely different in the last squad, and aside from the shot where you can see a bunch of them wearing the same pants it's not noticeable at all when they're all mobbed up. Once I divide the various boyz around various squads, they'll be a right and proper rabble without me going insane having to paint every guy distinctly and without batch painting.     
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 01:02
|
|
|
stabbington posted:Wet-blend it. In the specific case of red-black, the method Ben Komets uses in this video works really well, essentially doing a white-black blend and then glazing over it with red to get the right final coloration. These are some drat good videos.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 02:35
|
|
|
adamantium|wang posted:quick check your pantry *begins vibrating*
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 03:09
|
|
|
Star Man posted:How fast do you think alcohol paints would dry out in bone dry Colorado or Wyoming? Probably five minutes or so. Sounds fast, but it isn't that bad. Keep in mind that they don't 'dry out' like acrylics. An acrylic is useless after it dries. Alcohol paints will come right back to life with a few drops of alcohol and agitation. The longer it's dried the more agitation is required.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 03:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 09:59 |
|
|
Whoever it was who suggested Vallejo Black Lava (was it you, Bulbasaur?), it's pretty fun. I got some of that and some Dark Earth and now I can make cool textures for my bases! Except for some reason I also decided to sculpt a bunch of stuff for them from scratch which is turning out to be a moderate pain in the rear end.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 03:48
|
|