|
Was that the obnoxious internet celebrity guy that had the Carrera GT with no mufflers?
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 23:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 18:27 |
|
|
Comrade Flynn posted:Was that the obnoxious internet celebrity guy that had the Carrera GT with no mufflers? Yep, and his demise took the Spectre 341 event down. Their insurance went from a few grand for the weekend to $25K, which is almost the entire budget for an event that size. Ours is operated partly by the Ferrari club, which is a lot more safety-focused. Speaking of which, kimbo now has a good reason to come out next year!
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 00:24
|
|
|
Thoughts on the Ferrari IPO? Gonna buy some shares, maybe get a discount?
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 01:01
|
|
|
I'd be curious what their worldwide sales distribution is. If it's like 80% Middle East and China, I wonder if they'll have sustainable sales numbers in a couple years.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 01:16
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:I'd be curious what their worldwide sales distribution is. If it's like 80% Middle East and China, I wonder if they'll have sustainable sales numbers in a couple years. Ferrari limits production to something like ~7500 car per year, and there is probably way more demand than what they produce. They make most of their money off of licensing/merch/events/partnerships, lagging car sales would be less of a death blow to the company than losing the exclusivity of their brand name. Edit: Apparently things have changed, Ferrari makes a bulk of their profit from cars and programs like corse clienti now. 2012 sales figures put US as largest market with 2000 units and China as second largest with 700, UK the third with 650. There was also a 2 year wait list as of then. Muffinpox fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Oct 20, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 01:55
|
|
|
Muffinpox posted:Ferrari limits production to something like ~7500 car per year, and there is probably way more demand than what they produce. They make most of their money off of licensing/merch/events/partnerships, lagging car sales would be less of a death blow to the company than losing the exclusivity of their brand name. They are ramping up production soon. I don't think it will go well.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 02:45
|
|
|
Calling it now: The IPO will mark the beginning of the end for Ferrari 1.0
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 03:06
|
|
|
RIP Paul Walker posted:Calling it now: The IPO will mark the beginning of the end for Ferrari 1.0 That would make their bid to go more mainstream successful, I think. There's more noveau riche buyers who don't care if the cars hew to any tradition than there are loyalists.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 03:29
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:That would make their bid to go more mainstream successful, I think. There's more noveau riche buyers who don't care if the cars hew to any tradition than there are loyalists. I wasn't referring to the sort of cars they would make, I'm more concerned about what they will need to do (or not do...) in the pursuit of investor-approved profits. Can you imagine if https://goo.gl/jI6R4S was indirectly calling the shots at Ferrari? edit:// http://www.wsj.com/articles/ferrari-revs-up-for-ipo-1445201554 quote:In its IPO prospectus, Ferrari said it would boost production in 2019 to 9,000 vehicles, close to the 10,000 that Mr. Marchionne says the company could sell annually without damaging its prestige. He has proposed increasing sales in markets such as China謡here demand is still hot despite a slowdown in the luxury market謡hile keeping them largely steady in mature markets like the U.S. and Europe. Whelp, there's problem 1) Brand Dilution edit2:// On the other hand, I wouldn't complain about something like "budget" a $100,000 Ferrari. A mass-produced Ferrari might be it's own kind of cool... RIP Paul Walker fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Oct 20, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 03:36
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 04:13
|
|
|
I asked earlier about adhesives and high temps. Well, this is it. Under the engine lid, there's two panels of adhensive-backed foam insulation. Over time, the foam degrades and the adhesive loosens, sagging the foam over the intake plenum. I thought it was happening to me:  At the shop, the tech helpfully pointed out that, hey, the wax backing has never been peeled off this sagging panel. The adhesive felt tacky enough that I thought I could salvage it. But I wanted to make sure, hence the questions about high-temp adhesives. I did end up ordering the oven glue. An aside on obsessive Ferrari owners. While looking up alternatives, I ran into this post: "I just purchased a 1992 348 TS and the foam insulation under the hood is sagging and looks dingy. I called Dan at Ricambi American and he suggusted a silver metallic material from JC Whitney. If I wish to enter the car in a concours in the Preservation class, will I need the original material?" The answer is yes, Pebble Beach will kick your rear end out if you try to bring that JC Whitney poo poo in here. Unbolt the 4 10mm bolts holding the engine lid up. Lift it away to your work zone. I'm not that strong, and after working out tonight, I was nervous about picking the engine lid up and not scratching anything. It's an easy two-man job but a hard one-man job. Plop a shallow tray here and you have a 348amino:  You can see how the rear slope of the car is a complete illusion from the buttresses. The next part, I don't have pics for. Both hands were smeared with oven glue and I wanted to just get through it. The glue feels like rubber cement and smells like geraniums. I'm sure it's really bad to get all over your skin for as long as I had it. - pulled the foam panel out - tore half the backing off, taking 50% of the adhesive with it in strips - put the still-backed half back into place - spread oven glue on the exposed engine lid and let it set for a minute - carefully fed the foam under the crossbar, trying to preserve adhesive and not smear it anywhere - pulled the still-backed half back out and repeated for the other side - put the foam down to seat it into the glue Doing it halves was my idea to have the foam panel correctly aligned with the lid and not to have the adhesive side flailing around everywhere. Did not nail that -- it's about 1/2" over to the right. The one half-rear end I did was to leave in two short strips of double-sided foam tape  had tried to secure the foam with. Glued right over those two. They were stuck down too tight.The end result:  You can see the slight gap on the left. The glue doesn't have to hold much weight, but it's fighting heat and vibration. Here's hoping everything holds. I then carefully put the lid back on, placing the edge against the bottom of the rear window seal, using a stick to prop the end up to help get the angle right. After tediously hand threading the bolts back in, I took time to align the engine lid right -- it was cocked to the left a tiny bit after my strut replacement. Then ratcheted the bolts back in. They were in there pretty loose. I set them to 6Nm, going by my bike work hand feel.  The yellow sticker gives the paint code. The black plaque in the upper right is the fill fluids reference. The sticker in the center is some hose routing diagram. All concours-correct, I hope, now that I've spent the trouble of preserving the factory foam insulation. Saw this while I was in there:  The muffler heatshield is not really thin sheet aluminum as I'd thought, but silver painted fiberglass. The left support has ripped completely free, probably leading to some of the rattles I've been hearing. I'm not dying to patch this up yet. I'll wait until I decide what to do for exhaust. I'm letting the lid stay up while the glue sets, being paranoid about airing out any outgassing flammable glue components. When I saw this angle:  I immediately thought to myself, I need to shoot a short movie where there's a Miami Vice style drug deal, and the criminal opens the engine lid from this angle and pulls out a duffel bag. That would irk gearheads just enough. Anyways, you can also see the inboardness of the rear wheel. Spacers are on their way and I look forward to gaining that ~visual inch~. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Oct 25, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 06:22
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:~ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsbXwzqlqsU
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 13:28
|
|
|
oh gently caress no.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 13:46
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:
I've always been a fan of this: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 14:11
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:I've always been a fan of this: But why the dangling suspenders? Is he about to have sex with the cooling fan?
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 14:19
|
|
|
Muffinpox posted:According to a car and driver article, there was a trophy for highest trap speed in a certain section That seems like a terrible idea.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 16:26
|
|
|
That's the bag he keeps his tools in to do roadside repairs obviously 
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 17:52
|
|
|
2 more factoids: the driver's seat is 1.5" closer to the center of the car compared to the passenger's seat. This is one of the few cars I've driven where you have to reach a bit to rest your elbow on the door armrest. the most painful DIY task on some Ferraris, including the 348, is "sticky buttons," where the surface of black interior trim pieces melts, gets gooey, and starts coming off. You can do it yourself by soaking and brushing and repainting, or you can send it off to a specialty vendor that will do it for you, the most prominent of which is a FerrariChat forum sponsor. Some guy was doing a restoration project thread on FC, and did a bang-up job unstickying his interior pieces. He said his plan was to become a competing cleaning service, at which point some of the posters jumped down his throat even though he was a long-time contributor. The site owner eventually sided against him and the dude left, taking prospects of having that service materialize. The DIY guys were also pissed because the dude never revealed the spray paint he found that was a perfect color and texture match. Anyways, my car has been destickied a long time ago, so I won't have to suffer through that one.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2015 00:01
|
|
|
Muffinpox posted:He was killed in the crash. According to a car and driver article, there was a trophy for highest trap speed in a certain section and he was attempting to win that. Did he?
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2015 00:43
|
|
|
When you get those spacers, you might want to do something to protect the paint behind the wheel wells. The tires might kick stones and road grit into areas that the factory did not protect from that sort of treatment.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2015 00:52
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:2 more factoids: Ferrari is literally BMW
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2015 01:42
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Ferrari is literally BMW The 348 has a pretty solid cooling system. I hope, at least. I got the autox photog to take out the painter's tape and antenna:  The other angles were good, but this one has the wheels in phase, which sealed the deal.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2015 23:37
|
|
|
Replaced the burnt bulb in the left tail light tonight. Find the 4 handscrews around the cover, one at each corner:  Each handscrew is plastic around a brass nut. Unbolt and set aside the handscrews and pull the cover clear of the bolts:  There's that pair of bolts in the middle that has no matching handscrews.  Slide the cover to the left, and then you'll have clearance to pull it back and off:  Now you're dealing with a typical 90s DIYable setup. Rotate the bulb holder CCW 90deg to undo it:  I'm not sure why that reflector bowl in the center doesn't have anything plugged into it. I guess it could be for Euro spec? Also not sure why the new e: 1156 bulb is larger:  Doesn't have clearance problems going through the hole or to the glass, though. Installation is reverse of removal. Getting the bolts centered through the cover holes was tricky. I'm lucky this was the left side -- the right cover has the power antenna mount bolted to it, which'd need a lot more work to uncover. I was a bit paranoid about setting the handscrews to the right torque. The right cover's felt a little loose, so I snugged them up. Didn't test that it worked. I'll try to do that tomorrow before I drive it. That drive will also test to see if the foam holds up. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Oct 22, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2015 07:48
|
|
|
Extra bulb location is probably for a rear fog light which some Euro countries mandate.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2015 08:54
|
|
|
Your old bulb looks something like a 1003, not a 1156. E: changed Japanese standard (b19) out. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Oct 22, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2015 14:32
|
|
|
Drive report: car did not burn up in the parking lot at the colo: Foam seems to be holding. Bulb replacement didn't work, though. I very vaguely remember walking around the car to check all lights, but can't remember if I did it with the headlights up. cursedshitbox posted:Your old bulb looks something like a 1003, not a 1156. One of the major 348 reference sites says all rear bulbs are 1156, but I'm willing to try others. I'll try swapping in a working bulb to see if the wiring works. If that does, I guess I could use the bulb in the toolkit.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2015 17:31
|
|
|
Spot anything asymmetrical? I was asking about how battery cables should be routed, and an FC posted spotted that the left vent ducting hose was sagged. The end of the hose had come unplugged from the vent through the C-pillar. I plugged it back up. I think it's just friction fit. Wonder how much hotter the overall air feeding the engine was. Probably not much. Here's an engine-out shot of the left hose's routing:  Each tail light (the light that stays on when the headlights are on) has 3 bulbs. I swapped the new bulb in the burnt position with the adjacent bulb. If both bulbs light, great, but it doesn't make sense. If the burnt bulb stays dead, something's up with the wiring. Which maybe is likely, as I noticed a spliced wire leading into the bulb holder. If the burnt bulb lights, then the replacement bulb was wrong. I like when I can map things out as truth tables. Feeds the CS part of my brain. Oh, I also found a lozenge-sized piece of gravel wedged between the rear bodywork and the exhaust shield. e: wheel spacers came in. Will try to do this weekend. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Oct 23, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2015 05:00
|
|
|
This thread got me thinking about other "affordable" Ferraris. Ferrari 308 GT4 Dino (the little wedge-shaped Lotus looking thing) Ferrari 308 GTS/GTB Ferrari 328 Ferrari Mondial (with its withered, vestigial cheese-slicer vents) I know Ferrari 400 prices are low, but I would hesitate to call any 12-cylinder Ferrari "affordable". How are 360 prices these days?
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 04:10
|
|
|
Trans Ferdinand posted:I know Ferrari 400 prices are low, but I would hesitate to call any 12-cylinder Ferrari "affordable". My problem with 400s is that they have cater to a pretty narrow band of taste:  Flatteringly, you can call it dignified and restrained. A super mint one didn't make reserve for $58k: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-ferrari-365gt4-22/ A decent 360 can be had for $60k or so. I think it's about the same maintenance pattern as the 348 -- costly major service, but otherwise pretty reliable. I think the detractors for me for 360 vs 348 were: - it has the new Ferrari look and carries more of that stigma - it's a modern car that won't be as raw or different-feeling - i think the 430 looks much better than the 360. I think the 355 looks better than the 348, and it's supposed to be a better driver, too, but the nice ones were $90k and the cheap ones have too many scary issues
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 05:00
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:My problem with 400s is that they have cater to a pretty narrow band of taste: The looks don't scream "Ferrari", so someone who's looking to pose will not want this car. Edit: Mixed up my Maserati/Lambo models. Trans Ferdinand fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Oct 25, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 05:30
|
|
|
Bulb update: 1156 is apparently another name for the base spec used. That spec is also known as BA15S. The specific 5W Philips bulb I need (which was in the leather toolkit) is a 12821, so I ordered more of those. The spare in the toolkit actually still worked. The problem is, that bulb position is not working. I'll have to poke more to see if it's the bulb holder or the wiring leading to it. Either way, disappointing. A friend helped me put on the spacers today. I didn't have a 22mm socket for the wheel bolts, and neither does the toolkit. I guess the slime tool is Ferrari's alternative. e: After my buddy picked up the 22mm socket from the only local shop that had one, we got going. The jacking point is either end of the rear subframe, nice boxed steel. I could only get my jack in from the rear. After popping the wheel off (didn't expect any issues since the tire shop had just put the tires on), I encountered these:  Maybe to help hang the wheel? Some other spacer install guide said to take them off. I came dangerously close to rounding one of them. This is what the 245 (1cm narrower than stock) tire looks like on the wheel, which maybe is part of the problem:  Would have been fine at 265 if they had it, but the Star Spec doesn't have 265/45/17. The spacers were really nice, but the grade 10 bolts they came with were pretty busted up at the threads -- they clearly came out of a big bin. The whole hubbub on FC was over bad threads causing a bolt break, but Ricambi said they were fine to use. This is how they looked: http://imgur.com/a/xGttw Those bolts hold the spacer to the hub. I didn't get a shot of that; sorry. Then you use your stock wheel bolts to hold the wheel to the spacer. I ordered some aftermarket high quality bolts, but they gave me the 1994 348 bolts, which are longer because the 1994 has the fixed wheel offset:  So I couldn't use them. I'll swap those when I get them replaced. Torqued everything down to 75 ft-lbs. Felt a bit light. How often should I have my torque wrench calibrated? It's a Snap-on that I got years ago off some guy. The before shot:  And after shots (really crappy because I had dirty hands and couldn't hold the camera steady):      It definitely looks right now, and seems to play up the exotic midengine packaging. That last shot exaggerates how jacked up the wheel gap is compared to in real life. After doing both, there seems to be more negative camber on the left than on the right. Could be how the car settled on the tires? I'll see how it is in the spring when I get it aligned. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Oct 25, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 05:46
|
|
|
Definitely how it should have been stock.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 06:34
|
|
|
400s looka awesome. Much more dignified than 928 (also awesome), Mercs or Espada. I also like 308 GT4s with a bit larger wheels. Unfortunately their prices are on the up. According to a local Ferrari guy (that has 3 308s, 512BB, Testarossa and Diablo, does all maintenance himself and services other exotics on the side) the 348 and 355 are to most expensive/labor intensive in terms of maintenance from the "cheap" Ferraris. Apparently all the transverse V8 cars (208, 308 and 328) are DIY friendly and easy to maintain. Anything 360 and newer should also be cheaper/easier to maintain than 348/355. No need to remove the engine for a timing belt service. According to him, all of the front V12s are also cheap/DIY friendly to maintain.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 07:27
|
|
|
you *should* check your torque wrenches every year.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 08:18
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:you *should* check your torque wrenches every year. Check means have the Snap-on guy service it, right? Or do I set up a rig on a bench vise where I hang a big known weight off the end and see if it clicks over at the right torque?
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 08:33
|
|
|
The Costco near me has a machine for the tire techs to use. My friend has asked and gotten to test his wrench against it before. Your mileage will vary. 22mm is odd. Are you sure it's not 7/8" which is common on Chevy trucks?
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 10:01
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:22mm is odd. Are you sure it's not 7/8" which is common on Chevy trucks? It's odd, but it's real. You can also get really fancy sockets for the chrome heads: http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?cPath=600_100037&products_id=261093
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 10:30
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:It's odd, but it's real. You can also get really fancy sockets for the chrome heads: See, everyone always goes "Man it would be so sweet to wrench on supercars for a living" And I just think about dealing with chipping chrome off a lug stud on some dudes 30 year old Ferrari and say nope, ill take hanging brakes on rust belt buicks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 15:21
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:After popping the wheel off (didn't expect any issues since the tire shop had just put the tires on), I encountered these: You're right, they're just there to give you something to hang the wheel on when fitting. They also act as the brake disc retaining screw. Removing them won't hurt anything.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 18:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 18:27 |
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Bulb update: Give it to me this weekend and I will let you know how much the handling improved 
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2015 18:36
|
|