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MJP posted:I dry-fit the engine nacelles against the fuselage. The gaps are freaking giant. The kit has been put into a cardboard box, awaiting a day when I have the skills to fill. I always handbrush small details. I've been making a Ju 290 (it is tantalizingly close to done) and the interior I assembled and handbrushed to good effect (IMO.) 1/48 Revell A-10? Does the box it came in have a blue border? Because otherwise you might be in for quite a bit of pain. e: nm, according to it is the same kit. PS> This site is excellent for finding out if the box is a old kit or a new one. Nebakenezzer fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Oct 20, 2015 |
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Oct 20, 2015 19:29
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Unkempt posted:Airfix Tiger Moth, 1/72nd. Another new tool that's good and cheap. That looks awesome. I'm curious, did you paint the wings while they were on the fuselage, or separately? If it was while they were on the fuselage, how'd you paint the fuselage? Masking the wings to paint the yellow and then masking the fuselage when it had cured? Nebakenezzer posted:I always handbrush small details. I've been making a Ju 290 (it is tantalizingly close to done) and the interior I assembled and handbrushed to good effect (IMO.) Yeah, this is the one with the LET'S ROLL  decals, and it has the "Revell 1986 Made in China" raised lettering on the horizontal stabilizer. Do you do your handbrushing after everything is fully assembled? I'm basically realizing I have to handbrush the cockpit details and stuff then mask it with cotton swabs during the painting, but I'm wondering how I'd be going about the engine details.
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Oct 20, 2015 19:37
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MJP posted:Do you do your handbrushing after everything is fully assembled? I'm basically realizing I have to handbrush the cockpit details and stuff then mask it with cotton swabs during the painting, but I'm wondering how I'd be going about the engine details. Depends. I usually do it based on assembly - assembling stuff then painting it is ideal, but in the Ju 290 you had to paint the interior before sealing the fuselage. Painting the cockpit then masking it off is what I'd do.
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Oct 20, 2015 19:49
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MJP posted:That looks awesome. I'm curious, did you paint the wings while they were on the fuselage, or separately? Top wing separate, bottom wing/fuselage together. I did the yellow underside and fuselage side first then masked those off to paint the camo on top. Don't have any build pics but it was basically just a bunch of tamiya tape.
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Oct 20, 2015 20:52
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Nebakenezzer posted:e: nm, according to it is the same kit. PS> This site is excellent for finding out if the box is a old kit or a new one. The instructions for this kit explain a hell of a lot about the instructions for the 1/144 Revell A-10 I built recently: It's the exact same paintguide with less decals. The only thing is, the 1/144 doesn't have some of the physical mold details the 1/48 has. It confused the hell out of me as I was painting it, since it was instructing me to paint parts that didn't even exist on the mold.
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Oct 20, 2015 22:04
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MJP posted:I dry-fit the engine nacelles against the fuselage. The gaps are freaking giant. The kit has been put into a cardboard box, awaiting a day when I have the skills to fill. Filling/sanding is way less intimidating than it looks. I'm relatively new to this and have stupid clumsy fingers, and I'm not having too much trouble. I bought some cheap Tamiya putty and some files and had a go at filling a smallish gap on the wing root of one kit and it went ok, so I bought a kit specifically because I googled it and it wasn't supposed to be great, and had the same problem with the body being "stepped" after it was put together. It was surprisingly easy to get it filled. I won't know if it's a good job until I get it painted (it's the one I'm waiting for a part on), but it looks like it will be fine. I've also filled other smaller gaps and steps on it without much hassle. When I looked at how it was done, I thought "no way am I going to be able to do that", but it wasn't as hard as it looked. The only thing that tripped me up was that just because putty feels completely dry doesn't mean it's dry/hard all the way through, and it really needs to be before you can sand it.
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Oct 20, 2015 22:34
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It's about time I post some of my stuff. This is a German paratrooper in 1/35 I'm working on at the moment. The figure is kitbashed from 4 different plastic figures; Dragon body, arms and legs, Zvesda 1st pattern jumpboots and a Hornet resin head. Head and helmet are tacked on for the moment. I've undercut a lot of the details like the sleeves, the legs and some details like the Y-straps and pocket flaps. Still to do are making a new breadbag from putty so it will form nicely to the body and defining the hands a bit better, especially the right hand. I'll use the figure in a small vignette with a Kettenkrad that I will backdate to first production run features and a scratch build trailer, but more on that later.    My goal is to get this plastic figure up to resin standard. Spend about 10 hours on this little guy and am quite pleased with the results so far!
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Oct 21, 2015 02:02
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Ordered that hi mock  Does anyone have advice on painting a model with movable parts like that? Sort of scale model related, but here's a Finnish Stug III for Bolt Action I painted and used as a basis for learning more about pigments: 
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Oct 21, 2015 15:43
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Sweet looking Stug! If you don't mind me nitpicking, I think the colours look a little bit too bright, especially the green. Maybe put on a filter to tone the colours down a bit and tie the colours together a bit more. I like the pigments on the wheels, not too little and not too much! Another thing that catched my eye was the air intakes int he back, they could use some wash or even painted a very dark grey to give some sense of depth. Other than that cool model! What scale is it? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oJeIzB1CMU
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Oct 21, 2015 15:56
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Agreed, definitely darken that green and hit it with a wash. Top notch suspension and logs though. Are those real twigs or did you paint them?
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Oct 21, 2015 16:11
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Commissar Canuck posted:Ordered that hi mock You basically want to assemble it so you can see what bits are visible and how it all looks together, then pull it back apart to paint the sections as needed. You'll want to either mask off the joints or just pull the non-joint parts off altogether and airbrush them. It's kinda hard to explain if you haven't messed with a gundam before but once you see it it's really clear. It does get a little trickier if you cement weld parts together, because then you obviously can't pull them back apart, so the initial test build is even more important in that case. If you have a lot of time, this goes into everything but is a bit of overkill IMO. Depends on how much time you want to put into it. If you're already used to scale modeling techniques, which I assume you are, you're good to go. http://funakatown.com/images/Building_Gunpla_Final.pdf long-ass nips Diane fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Oct 21, 2015 |
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Oct 21, 2015 16:16
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Thanks everyone! It's 1/56 scale and I just used some backyard twigs and some fancy craft string for the side armour. I've never been quite clear on how best to apply a filter, nor how it's all that different from a wash. Any advice? I've got a brown filter from Mig for what it's worth Thanks for the gunpla advice, Swagger!
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Oct 21, 2015 17:47
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Heres a good article on filters by Mig Jamenze http://www.missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw02.htm
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Oct 21, 2015 17:51
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Commissar Canuck posted:Thanks everyone! It's 1/56 scale and I just used some backyard twigs and some fancy craft string for the side armour. I've never been quite clear on how best to apply a filter, nor how it's all that different from a wash. Any advice? I've got a brown filter from Mig for what it's worth 1:56th? I've never heard of that scale before. Is it a wargaming scale? Also requesting pictures of that T-34 in the background.
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Oct 21, 2015 18:53
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Ensign Expendable posted:1:56th? I've never heard of that scale before. Is it a wargaming scale? Yeah, 1:56 is basically 28mm wargaming scale. Here's an in progress pic of that T-34. I'm trying to make it look like the Finns captured a knocked out tank and got it working again. Still haven't found a good way of making the swastikas stick out more: 
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Oct 21, 2015 19:09
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Seeing how it has 1944 wheels and a 1941 turret, I'd say the effect is adequately achieved. Maybe throw in some Stalingrad type wheels in there for good measure.
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Oct 21, 2015 19:15
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Swagger Dagger posted:It does get a little trickier if you cement weld parts together, because then you obviously can't pull them back apart, so the initial test build is even more important in that case. The Hi-Mock is an incredibly well designed kit. Assuming you only cement seam lines and the like, you can still take the thing almost entirely apart. I'll chuck up a picture tomorrow of it separated in to its individual pieces.
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Oct 21, 2015 23:42
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What's the best thing to clean Vallejo acrylic gloss varnish from canopies? I have a Mig-21 canopy I need to clean and start over on.
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Oct 22, 2015 02:46
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I use Dettol for those kind of jobs. You could also try acetone but test it first, it could cloud the canopy.
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Oct 22, 2015 03:03
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Oh, I forgot to mention I'm in Holland, so I'm not sure if the formula for Dettol will be the same. I'll take a look in one of the expat shops though.
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Oct 22, 2015 03:23
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I'm in Holland as well ( Breda actually  ). Try to find the brown liquid Dettol that is in the transparent bottle (the UK version). You can often find it on markets for a good price, I recently bought Dettol at Kruidvat but it was in a white bottle and was twice as expensive. Haven't used it yet so I don't know if it's the same formula. You can also take a look at the Xenox or Action, they sometimes have the transparent bottles for cheap. Also, if you use Dettol as a paint stripper, make sure you rinse it very thoroughly with lots of water and an old toothbrush.Another thing you can try is St.Marc. You can often find it for cheap at the Hornbach or Formido. 
Molentik fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Oct 22, 2015 |
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Oct 22, 2015 03:44
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Turns out getting a 1/72 Zodiac or other rigid inflatable boat is pretty dang tough. I guess it might be time to raid the lovely toy soldiers at the local cheapass stores and see if I can get a crappy plastic toy to fancy up.
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Oct 22, 2015 04:38
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Molentik posted:I use Dettol for those kind of jobs. You could also try acetone but test it first, it could cloud the canopy. Acetone melts plastic as far as I know, I would use isopropyl alcohol instead.
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Oct 22, 2015 08:35
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AlphaDog posted:Filling/sanding is way less intimidating than it looks. I'm relatively new to this and have stupid clumsy fingers, and I'm not having too much trouble. I bought some cheap Tamiya putty and some files and had a go at filling a smallish gap on the wing root of one kit and it went ok, so I bought a kit specifically because I googled it and it wasn't supposed to be great, and had the same problem with the body being "stepped" after it was put together. It was surprisingly easy to get it filled. I won't know if it's a good job until I get it painted (it's the one I'm waiting for a part on), but it looks like it will be fine. I've also filled other smaller gaps and steps on it without much hassle. Oh, I've filled/sanded - I got my recent start in gunpla - but my problem with the MiG-31 is that there's something of like a 4mm-5mm gap. Isn't that gonna be too much for putty? Moreover, it's gonna be a cast-iron bitch to get the top of the intake parts to stay stable during cementing.
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Oct 22, 2015 13:29
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tunah posted:Acetone melts plastic as far as I know, I would use isopropyl alcohol instead. Interactions are less common and less severe than with acetone, but isopropanol does affect some plastics. It’s worth checking before you slather it on—online if you know the type of plastic, testing on scrap piece or an inconspicuous area if you don’t.
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Oct 22, 2015 13:49
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So, here's the part separation you can expect with the hi-mock.
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Oct 22, 2015 13:52
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MJP posted:Oh, I've filled/sanded - I got my recent start in gunpla - but my problem with the MiG-31 is that there's something of like a 4mm-5mm gap. Isn't that gonna be too much for putty? Moreover, it's gonna be a cast-iron bitch to get the top of the intake parts to stay stable during cementing. Wow, that sounds pretty extreme. I've put plastic card into gaps like that (sideways if you get what I mean) before gluing and filing and filling and sanding.
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Oct 22, 2015 15:31
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So about a week and a half ago, I decide I want to start a quick project, because my next shipment from Japan isn't due until late November. I go on Amazon and see that an american-based seller has the lowest price on the 1/700 IJN Battleship Kongo from Hasegawa. All right, that's a cool boat. Why not? I get this in the mail a few days later:  If you're at all familiar with Japanese naval tradition, you'll recognize that's at least two degrees of wrong. So I send it back foolishly, thinking it was just a simple inventory error. Today I get this:  That's...less wrong, I guess?  The two lessons I'm getting from this are: 1) Never try to game the shipping system and 2) if there is a god, it wants me to build a guided missile destroyer.
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Oct 22, 2015 18:52
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Send it back and see what you get next time!
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Oct 22, 2015 19:28
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Jonny Nox posted:Wow, that sounds pretty extreme. I've put plastic card into gaps like that (sideways if you get what I mean) before gluing and filing and filling and sanding. So you kinda just take the card, bend it into the inside of the part, cement it, let dry, and use it as the base of the gap, and putty therein? Worth a thought. I did save everything, so we'll see what works. Worth a try to salvage, that is, once I finish the A-10 that I started which has drat near zero bad gaps so far.
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Oct 22, 2015 20:33
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Triggerhappypilot posted:So about a week and a half ago, I decide I want to start a quick project, because my next shipment from Japan isn't due until late November. I go on Amazon and see that an american-based seller has the lowest price on the 1/700 IJN Battleship Kongo from Hasegawa. All right, that's a cool boat. Why not? Haha, you'll just have to accept the days of big gun dreadnoughts are gone  (Also an ironically ijn lesson)
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Oct 22, 2015 22:58
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Sanguine posted:Haha, you'll just have to accept the days of big gun dreadnoughts are gone The real kicker to this story is that not two hours later, the Yamashiro that I ordered from a Japanese seller showed up way in advance of delivery estimate, thus negating the entire need for a quick project.
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Oct 23, 2015 00:24
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Train nerds: here's a 1966 Life article on a scale steam auction. While some of these pieces were just models, other are, you know, fully working steam engines and traction engines an' such.
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Oct 23, 2015 03:07
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Went to some museums these last days and they had some nice models around CS Faraday, a cable laying ship built in 1874, she spent 50 years laying 93000 km of cable before being refit into a coal hulk and being renamed Analcoal. No, really. (German Museum of Communications, Frankfurt)  Unspecified US Mail paddle steamer. I have not yet been able to ascertain which ship this is intended to show. The exterior looks a bit like Pacific Mail SS California, but the placement of the chimney looks more like RMS Asia. This may be a fantasy boat altogether. Still kinda nice. (German Museum of Communications, Frankfurt)  Middle European Style Neolithic Village (German Museum of Architectural Design, Frankfurt)  Near East "Catal Huyuk" Style Neolithic Village (German Museum of Architectural Design, Frankfurt)  Roman City (German Museum of Architectural Design, Frankfurt)  Middle European Medieval Town (German Museum of Architectural Design, Frankfurt)  Romanesque Cathedral (German Museum of Architectural Design, Frankfurt)  English Workers Town (German Museum of Architectural Design, Frankfurt)  ISS Habitat and Research Modules Cross Section (German Museum of Architectural Design, Frankfurt)  Soyuz Spacecraft (German Museum of Architectural Design, Frankfurt) Also got Victory's launch finished  And the giant Tiger 1 is growing 
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Oct 23, 2015 14:24
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Nice pictures! On the Tigger, did you do that Zimmerit yourself or did it come with the kit?
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Oct 23, 2015 18:21
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Molentik posted:Nice pictures! It comes like that. I have no idea how I'm going to camouflage the edges between individual parts. This'll be interesting when I put it together.
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Oct 23, 2015 18:41
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Light sanding the upper parts of the Zimm and taking a number 11 exacto blade with a 'scooping' motion for the recessed parts?
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Oct 23, 2015 18:57
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Molentik posted:Nice pictures! Those Tigger's seem bigger because of their bounces. Sorry, can't resist temptation. And it is big.
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Oct 23, 2015 19:13
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Molentik posted:Light sanding the upper parts of the Zimm and taking a number 11 exacto blade with a 'scooping' motion for the recessed parts? There'll be significant gaps between parts of the turret walls (bigger than 2 millimeters as far as I can see). Those walls are also made of zamac alloy. I'm thinking filling it all up with putty then shaping it with a fine comb or brush when the putty is semi-hard. We'll see. Got some ways to go yet until these will be put together.
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Oct 23, 2015 19:19
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Just wanted to post way way down that the Berna clamps from the OP? Good as gold. Holy crap, these are hugely wonderful for holding curved fuselage halves together.
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Oct 23, 2015 20:27
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