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KillHour posted:Don't metal roofs sound horrible when it rains? nah that poo poo is relaxing as gently caress to me. YMMV
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Oct 21, 2015 15:26
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PainterofCrap posted:A note on warranty: The biggest problem with roofing is proper installation of the asphalt shingle: proper placement of the nails and the proper number of nails, as well as the use of adhesive on laminated shingle installed on pitches beyond 12/12 (or 45-degrees). Many roofers like to work really fast, and throw three nails in the tape line. Wrong number & wrong location. Speaking as someone who's going to be installing asphalt shingles soon, got any advice for me? I've yet to start reading tutorials / watching videos, but it'd be good to know some basics about what not to do at least. Also, opinions re: roofing nails -- hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel?
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Oct 21, 2015 15:41
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KillHour posted:Don't metal roofs sound horrible when it rains? I'm pretty sure I've seen metal roofs with the underside coated in a dense spray foam which would significantly deaden the sound of rain and increase the insulation of the roof.
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Oct 21, 2015 16:49
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Also, opinions re: roofing nails -- hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel? Pfffft. Marine bronze if you're really cheap, Inconel if you're serious about doing quality work.
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Oct 21, 2015 17:10
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HERAK posted:I'm pretty sure I've seen metal roofs with the underside coated in a dense spray foam which would significantly deaden the sound of rain and increase the insulation of the roof. I have a metal roof on my (cathedral ceiling) office. It has "double bubble" directly underneath and then R30 insulation. It can be loud if it's raining really hard but it's not bad at all. I'd imagine something with a traditional attic would be hardly noticeable unless it was hailing. Edit: The rest of the barn is open ceilings with nothing but metal on top. It sounds like the world is ending during a light drizzle. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Oct 21, 2015 |
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Oct 21, 2015 17:14
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MANGOSTEEN CURES P posted:I'm going to have a nightmare about the deck on this place. 8:55 30+ foot long dryer vent with a right angle in it lying on the ground 10:14 a window that is clearly supposed to be a door Throughout: an old with a saliva-filled voice panting for breath at the effort at walking around a house and talking 11:00 or so: A deck held up by ~6 10' tall 4x4's which are resting on the solid footer of ?????? 11:50 Totally unsupported floor joists in the deck I'm going to show this to my wife. We've been watching a ton of Mike-Holmes related shows, let's see what we can spot!
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Oct 21, 2015 21:27
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You can hear the voice-over? Even after jacking up my volume, it's nothing more than a mumbly whisper to me. I actually wasn't sure there was supposed to be audio on the video the first time I opened it.
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Oct 21, 2015 22:04
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Motronic posted:I have a metal roof on my (cathedral ceiling) office. It has "double bubble" directly underneath and then R30 insulation. It can be loud if it's raining really hard but it's not bad at all. What is double bubble? How deep ( wide) are your rafters? I ask because I found ants in my cathedral ceiling and pulled off some of the interior ceiling, only to find that my rafters are only 8" deep, and poorly insulated. I shudder to think what I'm going to find as I get up near the peak of the roof.?
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Oct 21, 2015 23:38
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PainterofCrap posted:A note on warranty: The biggest problem with roofing is proper installation of the asphalt shingle: proper placement of the nails and the proper number of nails, as well as the use of adhesive on laminated shingle installed on pitches beyond 12/12 (or 45-degrees). Many roofers like to work really fast, and throw three nails in the tape line. Wrong number & wrong location. Well, we're not doing that, at least. I'm curious how the one we're installing would stack up.  I assume the plastic strip on the right is the tape line? We're doing four nails/staples across the middle of the shingle, about an inch above where the next row will overlap. We started hand nailing Monday, then yesterday he brought a staple gun and we were making good time using 1" crown staples, today the customer showed up and pitched a fit about how staples suck and all the shingles would blow off, shortly before idly musing that he's not a roofer and doesn't know how we can manage to walk around up there. The existing roof is all stapled and has lasted however long. At least we have a nailgun now. They're like inch and a half galvanized nails with really wide heads.
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Oct 22, 2015 00:36
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Javid posted:The existing roof is all stapled and has lasted however long. At least we have a nailgun now. They're like inch and a half galvanized nails with really wide heads. Wouldn't nails that long penetrate through the roof deck? It's presumably not thicker than 3/4" at the very most and I doubt you have another 3/4" worth of roofing material on top of that. I need to see if my framing nailgun can take roofing nails. It's supposed to take the kinds of nails that are connected together by plastic, not wire (EDIT: answer: probably not; it only takes nails down to a length of 2" at the shortest, which is definitely too long). TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Oct 22, 2015 |
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Oct 22, 2015 00:54
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Nah, this is the third layer of shingles on this roof. So there's six layers of shingle plus whatever's below that before you hit wood.
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Oct 22, 2015 01:04
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Pigsfeet on Rye posted:What is double bubble? How deep ( wide) are your rafters? I ask because I found ants in my cathedral ceiling and pulled off some of the interior ceiling, only to find that my rafters are only 8" deep, and poorly insulated. I shudder to think what I'm going to find as I get up near the peak of the roof.? Double bubble is this. I come from a pole-barn-building-metal-roof-area, so I shouldn't expect this to to be common I guess. My rafters are 8's. To get R30 I needed to use R30C insulation (the C is for cathedral). Regular R30 needs 10 or 12" I believe. Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Oct 22, 2015 |
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Oct 22, 2015 01:51
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Javid posted:We're doing four nails/staples across the middle of the shingle, about an inch above where the next row will overlap. We started hand nailing Monday, then yesterday he brought a staple gun and we were making good time using 1" crown staples, today the customer showed up and pitched a fit about how staples suck and all the shingles would blow off, shortly before idly musing that he's not a roofer and doesn't know how we can manage to walk around up there. Staples do suck. They provide a nice bend point for the shingle to tear along and do indeed result in more blow-offs. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Wouldn't nails that long penetrate through the roof deck? It's presumably not thicker than 3/4" at the very most and I doubt you have another 3/4" worth of roofing material on top of that. The nails are, in fact, supposed to go all the way through. Well, specifically, it's supposed to go into the deck at least 3/4", and through the deck with at least 1/8" showing on the far side if the deck plywood is less than 3/4" thick. Most deck plywood is 1/2". Jordanis fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Oct 22, 2015 |
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Oct 22, 2015 02:01
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MullardEL34 posted:Vinyl windows are great, but vinyl siding was spawned from Satan's rear end in a top hat. It's the ugliest house cladding ever devised and always ends up looking like this in less than 10 years. This stuff is really cool! Saved the link for later. Though, I do have to say, after painting the metal roof on my garage with oil paint and cleaning up the old stuff with toluene, I'm really glad we live in the modern era where we have cheap respirators and decent water based latex paint... I feel so incredibly spoiled, I had forgotten what actual paint fumes were like 
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Oct 22, 2015 02:16
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I'm sure it's a great product but lol at "100% chemical free". So you've discovered neutron matter, have you?
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Oct 22, 2015 02:41
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Jordanis posted:Staples do suck. They provide a nice bend point for the shingle to tear along and do indeed result in more blow-offs. I was able to take a plain old spade (not the fancy roofing kind, the kind you dig holes with) and fairly easily jam it under the shingles about 2-4 feet at a time and pull off big sheets of shingles. It took about 10 minutes to do a 100 square foot section. This was, of course, followed by a lot of removing staples from the wood under the shingles. It's a sample size of one, but staples do seem to suck.
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Oct 22, 2015 02:48
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MullardEL34 posted:Vinyl windows are great, but vinyl siding was spawned from Satan's rear end in a top hat. It's the ugliest house cladding ever devised and always ends up looking like this in less than 10 years. There has to be some catch. At the very least, it seems like there is more work involved in the actual painting process, but I figure there's other stuff (maybe a narrower range of suitable temperature and humidity for drying?)
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Oct 22, 2015 03:09
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I'm gonna make a wild guess and say that the catch is that it's really expensive.
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Oct 22, 2015 05:44
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Slanderer posted:There has to be some catch. At the very least, it seems like there is more work involved in the actual painting process, but I figure there's other stuff (maybe a narrower range of suitable temperature and humidity for drying?) Linseed oil oxidizing is a very exothermic process. Depending on conditions it can actually spontaneously combust. Typically this is the result of oily rags wadded up and stuffed in a box, but it's a gotcha other kinds of paint don't have.
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Oct 22, 2015 12:54
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Fo3 posted:Yes, that is the main reason why most people don't like tin roofs and have clay tiles instead. I'd rather have a tin roof that looks like a golf ball but is still weather proof after a bad storm that can be replaced when the weather is better than a tile roof with holes in it because the tiles have shattered- Loads of pics out of sydney of that, and HUGE cleanup bills from the associated flooding too. I cant say ive seen a single clay tile in use in South Australia for years now, its all concrete tiles. Definately nowhere near as popular as tin either- Im in a brand new housing estate and out of the 40 or so houses here, 4 of them have tile roofs? That said, unless its True Oak steel from Revolution Roofing, modern corrugated iron is paper thin and easy as poo poo to dent.
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Oct 22, 2015 13:56
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Slanderer posted:There has to be some catch. At the very least, it seems like there is more work involved in the actual painting process, but I figure there's other stuff (maybe a narrower range of suitable temperature and humidity for drying?) "The way paint used to be" was 50-90% lead oxide by weight, and it was the lead, not the linseed polymer, that gave the finished surface its durability. Here, the "paint" lasts 50 years because you apply a clear topcoat every 5-10 years, so your maintenance schedule isn't really any better than with latex paint. The linseed oil paint may well hold up better in unfavorable moisture conditions, because it has higher permeance than latex paints and will allow wood to dry faster after wettings. But if wood siding is installed with good moisture management ("rainscreen" air gap, prime the back of the siding before attaching it), latex paints have very good durability.
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Oct 22, 2015 18:01
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I've spend a good 3 months of my life this year alone gutting my grandparents home to fix Dupont's magical copper replacement; polybutylene. Not only did they use this wonder material which does nothing but develop pinhole leaks and break at junction points, but they also covered the whole floor using another magic material; particleboard! Pretty sure Satan did actually make this stuff himself.
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Oct 22, 2015 18:40
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I had to remove particle board from under the linoleum in the bathroom when I gutted it. The concept of putting particle board in wet conditions just kind of blew me away. It was gross >< I guess it would have been fine if it was sealed better, better cared for, what ever.
silicone thrills fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Oct 22, 2015 |
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Oct 22, 2015 18:50
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stealie72 posted:It's a sample size of one, but staples do seem to suck. Staples suck.
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Oct 22, 2015 18:58
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Tigntink posted:I had to remove particle board from under the linoleum in the bathroom when I gutted it. The concept of putting particle board in wet conditions just kind of blew me away. It was gross >< I guess it would have been fine if it was sealed better, better cared for, what ever.
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Oct 23, 2015 00:36
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Nitrox posted:I've seen 2 houses where 1/2" drywall was used as underlayment for tile in bathrooms and kitchens. The "builder' collected money and hosed off to whatever south american country he originally came from. I've seen houses where 1/2" drywall was used as underlayment for plaster, including my own.
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Oct 23, 2015 01:09
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A friend bought a place with a "crunchy" linoleum floor everywhere. Turned out they put 1/2" drywall on top of the hardwood and underlayment. He stripped all of that poo poo off, rented a belt sander and refinished the floors. The place is beautiful now.
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Oct 23, 2015 02:17
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What do people think drywall is for?!
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Oct 23, 2015 03:24
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NancyPants posted:What do people think drywall is for?! Load-bearing structure, mostly.
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Oct 23, 2015 03:29
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To keep poo poo dry 
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Oct 23, 2015 03:43
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Bad Munki posted:Load-bearing structure, mostly. Bingo.
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Oct 23, 2015 10:42
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NancyPants posted:What do people think drywall is for?! Bathroom cabinets and shelving. Also, you can crumble it up, mix the powder with water, and use it to fill gaps around badly fit windows before painting.
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Oct 23, 2015 10:53
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I expected that to end with '...and drink it to add roughage to your diet' so that was somehow better.
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Oct 23, 2015 14:19
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It's mostly for healing Predators.
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Oct 23, 2015 15:29
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Tigntink posted:I had to remove particle board from under the linoleum in the bathroom when I gutted it. The concept of putting particle board in wet conditions just kind of blew me away. It was gross >< I guess it would have been fine if it was sealed better, better cared for, what ever. I wonder what's worse...particle board as sub-floor in a kitchen or bath, or carpet as the actual floor material. Honestly, it blows me away that this was (is?) ever done. I've lived in one place that had a carpeted bathroom when I was renting a house w/ four other people. Thankfully, my room had a private bath, but the main bathroom was carpet. Even though the shower was rarely used (3 bedroom house,) there was nothing we could do to stop mold, mildew, and actual loving mushrooms from growing. Nastiest loving thing ever. And just the other week, my girlfriend and I discovered our home has carpet underneath the current linoleum in the kitchen, because I guess ripping it out was too loving hard. Christ, it's carpet, it comes up so easily! It's not like removing old bathroom floor tiles!
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Oct 23, 2015 15:35
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DrBouvenstein posted:I wonder what's worse...particle board as sub-floor in a kitchen or bath, or carpet as the actual floor material. Carpet as the actual floor material, is the answer. A friend does mission trips to fix homes in Appalachia and one trailer had wall to wall carpet where there was no floor under the main entry door. To get in you just shimmy through a window to avoid the death trap at the door.
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Oct 23, 2015 15:41
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When we moved to our current house, we took our dishwasher with us since it was relatively new. When I pulled it out, I found carpet on the floor underneath the old dishwasher. Wasn't anywhere else in the kitchen, just underneath the dishwasher. Strangest drat thing.
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Oct 23, 2015 15:55
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Maybe the old dishwasher rattled, and the carpet acted as a shock absorber.
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Oct 23, 2015 15:58
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Safety Dance posted:Maybe the old dishwasher rattled, and the carpet acted as a shock absorber. this is very likely.
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Oct 23, 2015 16:00
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Could be, but it was also partially underneath the cabinets. Seems likely that at one point the entire kitchen was carpeted, then the island that the dishwasher was in was added, then the carpet ripped out because carpet in a kitchen is a terrible idea, and that little bit was left underneath the dishwasher.
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Oct 23, 2015 16:03
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