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Looks like I am picking up a lathe. A british made Coronet Major: Well I'm having someone go and check it out for me as it's up in Kokkola and I'm going the opposite direction next week for a whole week. It's not a particularly large lathe, 11.5cm height (bit more than 4½") of the headstock and 80cm (31½") between head and tailstock. I wasn't going to buy it because of the limited diameter, but the headstock swivels so I can use it for larger things. Lengthwise I think it's OK. Most of the things I can imagine using it for it making new handles for tools, seats for stools, wooden pulleys, perhaps bowls. Thinking it's made sometime in the 1970s, it has a grinder attachment on the headstock.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 08:56 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 14:59 |
Hah, I just sold my lathe. Turns out I'm too lazy to move it, plus I am going to use this as an excuse to upgrade.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 10:08 |
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My wife texted me earlier a charity shop nearby has a wood lathe, she's an enabler.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 11:16 |
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Cakefool posted:My wife texted me earlier a charity shop nearby has a wood lathe, she's an enabler. My girlfriend doesn't know I cut into our anniversary budget for the planer.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 14:11 |
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After I proposed by gf said I could buy something fancy since she got a ring. Planer it was! Pretty fair deal imo.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 15:24 |
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Cakefool posted:My wife texted me earlier a charity shop nearby has a wood lathe, she's an enabler. A good wife. So I can feel bad about myself: how long does it take people to complete the average project, say a chest of drawers? I'm going on 20 hours now and I have at least another 20 to go and I feel hell of slow.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 17:46 |
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Tim Thomas posted:A good wife. "First you get good, then you get fast." "Dont rush it, it will come." "If you don't take the time to do it right, when will you make the time to do it over?" etc. My 93 year old grandpa can make about 40 end grain cutting boards in a day.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 18:45 |
What do you mean, "finish a project?"
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 19:21 |
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Bad Munki posted:What do you mean, "finish a project?" He means when it reaches the state where it's as done as it's ever going to be.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 19:25 |
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Oh, when you're dead.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 19:28 |
TooMuchAbstraction posted:He means when it reaches the state where it's as done as it's ever going to be. Well then if he means "buying all the needed supplies," he should just say that.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 19:31 |
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Bad Munki posted:What do you mean, "finish a project?" I think he means "spraying the finish on a project" then feeling the sense of dread as you hope that it turns out.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 19:42 |
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HDS, I've been thinking about the cherry in Finland question, it might be worth contacting Kovjoki Snickeri, I know that they've been a source for hardwoods for some of my friends. No idea if they have cherry, but they might be able to point you in the right direction.
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# ? Oct 22, 2015 12:00 |
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Oh I don't have any particular use for cherry, mostly just curious where it could be found. I'll remember those guys though, maybe I'll buy some hardwood from them. I know there's also Korsholm Trätjänst near Vaasa where one can get oak boards. 2" boards for 2000 euros per cubic meter, I might get a board or two, and perhaps I can buy a box of off-cuts cheaply.
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# ? Oct 22, 2015 12:56 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:Oh I don't have any particular use for cherry, mostly just curious where it could be found. I'll remember those guys though, maybe I'll buy some hardwood from them. That's great to know, I'm in Korsholm fairly often and will check the place out. I've been thinking a lot about oak lately.
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# ? Oct 22, 2015 13:19 |
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I am trying to justify my savings of a few bucks, but I will not if there is no reason to so I need some advice. I am rebuilding some of my own home finally and one of the projects is building usable closet space. I plan on using 23/32 maple/oak plywood for most of it and then painting it. I can snag the cheaper $42-49 4x8 at Lowes or I can "go big or go home" at a local lumber supply and get domestic plywood (thicker veneer) for around $70 per sheet (shop grade) which is meant to be painted. The question is, does anyone have recent experience with the Lowes/HD plywood for painting? I know I really can't stand the stuff, but how well does it take paint?
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# ? Oct 22, 2015 18:44 |
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Does the thickness of the veneer matter if you're going to paint it anyway?
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# ? Oct 22, 2015 21:08 |
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I wouldn't pay extra for a "maple" or "oak" plywood or whatever, where a big part of what you're paying for is a nice surface that looks like wood (as long as you can't see it edgewise, which exposes the plywood layers). As long as the outer layer is reasonably flat/smooth it'll be fine.
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# ? Oct 22, 2015 21:22 |
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mAlfunkti0n posted:I am trying to justify my savings of a few bucks, but I will not if there is no reason to so I need some advice. The cabinet grade plywood takes paint fine. One of them has some that's primed white on one side, I think. Also, what TMA said, there's no reason to get a hardwood veneered sheet if you're painting it. Fir is fine fir what you're doing.
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# ? Oct 22, 2015 22:08 |
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Cakefool posted:Does the thickness of the veneer matter if you're going to paint it anyway? No, a decent coat of primer should hide even the edge of the plywood. Never mind a veneer that's maybe a couple hundred microns.
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# ? Oct 22, 2015 23:07 |
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We're refinishing a mantle and I'm wondering if anyone has any tools they recommend to get in the corners and cracks. Because at this point it feels like it's never going to be done. Whatever was on it didn't really respond to paint stripper so we've hand to sand most of it.
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 03:06 |
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The Dave posted:We're refinishing a mantle and I'm wondering if anyone has any tools they recommend to get in the corners and cracks. Because at this point it feels like it's never going to be done. Wrap sandpaper around a thin, like 1" putty knife. You can also use a 1/4" or 1/2" chisel very judiciously in spots, if you are a judicious chiseler.
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 03:16 |
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Ocillating multitool?? I have one with some little sanding pads. I have the Harbor Frieght one so it only cost like $15. No complaints and it would probably get most into most of those corners. Sanding sponges?
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 03:25 |
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My wife was having some good success with a chisel, I'm too worried I'll go too hard. Actually bought an oscillating tool for this, it's worked really well for a lot but not everything. I like that putty knife idea, guess there's really now silver bullet for this.
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 03:32 |
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Dremel for tight corners. That's all I got for ideas.
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 03:37 |
Some detail sanders might be small enough to get in there. I got a metabo that does all my hard to reach places.
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 04:04 |
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card scraper?
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 04:04 |
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heat gun?
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 11:56 |
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media blasting?
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 12:35 |
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Tears
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 14:26 |
Try your best to avoid tear-out
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 14:50 |
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Thanks for the info about the plywood, it will save me some change http://www.lowes.com/pd_12229-99899-NA_1z10t8c__?productId=3602858&pl=1 That is the stock I'll pick up, unless anyone sees something wrong with using it.
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 18:41 |
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I prefer the shittastic Home Depot HD ply you can get for $40 a sheet for the surface finish being pretty much bang-on without sanding, but honestly they're both fine.
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 19:08 |
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The Dave posted:We're refinishing a mantle and I'm wondering if anyone has any tools they recommend to get in the corners and cracks. Because at this point it feels like it's never going to be done. Stripper plus a wire brush is great for corners and grooves. Just use a light touch.
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 19:41 |
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The Dave posted:... tools ... to get in the corners and cracks... didn't really respond to paint stripper 1. heat gun 2. scraper 3. wire brush are good answers. Heat to soften the paint, scraper to dislodge it, brush to clean it up. mAlfunkti0n posted:I am rebuilding some of my own home finally and one of the projects is building usable closet space. I plan on using 23/32 maple/oak plywood Is this not something you could frame out and use drywall? Would be a fuckton cheaper and easier.
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 21:21 |
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wormil posted:1. heat gun I guess you COULD but it would be the most white trashy closet space I have ever seen aside from the normal "put up a wire shelf" nonsense. This is more of what I am going for .. doing it with drywall would just seem like it belongs in the other thread about construction disasters. http://www.thehappyhomebodies.com/2013/11/diy-how-to-build-wall-of-closets-from.html
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 21:33 |
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mAlfunkti0n posted:I guess you COULD but it would be the most white trashy closet space I have ever seen aside from the normal "put up a wire shelf" nonsense. He said "frame out", i.e. build a proper wall out of 2x4s and then surface it with drywall. Depending on what kind of space you're working with that might not make sense though. It sounds like you basically want to build some cabinets, except instead of storing dishes or whatever they'd store clothes.
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 21:40 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:He said "frame out", i.e. build a proper wall out of 2x4s and then surface it with drywall. Depending on what kind of space you're working with that might not make sense though. It sounds like you basically want to build some cabinets, except instead of storing dishes or whatever they'd store clothes. Yes, for my space it makes no sense .. but even if it made sense I really dislike the look of that kind of closet. I re-framed the closet because the original design was dumb (9'x2.5' with a 32" door). I'll likely just be building the cabinets flush with the 6" stubs on both sides and adding some nice doors and trim. Going from a could be partially walk in closet to more useful space. Anywho, I'll check HD and Lowes for the straights BC sheets and see what I think. Thanks!
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# ? Oct 23, 2015 22:16 |
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Lots of ideas to try out, thanks gang.
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# ? Oct 24, 2015 00:51 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 14:59 |
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My table finish was damaged in a horrible spilled acetone incident. This is the table, the finish is described as "Honey brown stain with clear protective lacquer finish". How do I go about finding a stain with a sufficiently similar color, and how can I apply it to minimize any dissimilarity of the repaired spot? (I'm definitely not up to refinishing the entire surface at present - maybe in the future when I've had more practice)
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# ? Oct 24, 2015 00:52 |