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Yeah. It needs new brakes badly (crazy shimmy when you get on them) but otherwise drives like new. I would already have bought it except for the rust. I'm in Utah and these things hold their value better than any vehicle I've ever seen, but if its gonna die a rust death before 300k I don't really want to take the plunge. People here pay $8000+ for tacomas with 250k.
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Oct 20, 2015 20:01
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Crimpanzee posted:Buying cheap brake parts over the internet, do or don't? Rotors and pads, shipping from NJ-WA is only $25 from carid.com. Never heard of the site or the Centric brand but it's $100 cheaper than the oriellys for everything. Cons are shipping them back if I need to return them and 90 day vs. lifetime warranty. I'm leaning towards the local store but maybe I'm being paranoid. Pad materials are ceramic all around from both and rotors are all nonsense free. Centric is perfectly fine, I've used them with no problem and I've seen scores of positive reviews for them. A lot of WJ guys seem to think they're one of the only rotors that the WJ doesn't warp easily. rdb posted:That looks like its surface rust and I would drive it as is. It's not unsafe, yet. I don't see any new holes or chunks falling off. Isn't part of the issue with the Taco rust that they do a lot of internal / capillary-rust damage first? I'm sure someone will pay $Texas for that thing because of the T on the front but I wouldn't touch it.
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Oct 20, 2015 20:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:Centric is perfectly fine, I've used them with no problem and I've seen scores of positive reviews for them. A lot of WJ guys seem to think they're one of the only rotors that the WJ doesn't warp easily. They do rot from the inside due to cheesy metal and the sealant that keeps moisture in them. That individual frame would not have met the requirements for replacement under the recall since there are no holes 11mm? or greater that shouldn't be there. I agree, it's too far along to be saved, but not to the point where I would feel unsafe driving it.
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Oct 20, 2015 20:35
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rdb posted:They do rot from the inside due to cheesy metal and the sealant that keeps moisture in them. That individual frame would not have met the requirements for replacement under the recall since there are no holes 11mm? or greater that shouldn't be there. I agree, it's too far along to be saved, but not to the point where I would feel unsafe driving it. Am I the only person that thinks that 11mm holes might be too large for a structural member of a roadgoing vehicle? Maybe they should have started at external flaking, since that's a sign that the entire piece is rusting through.
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Oct 20, 2015 20:47
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Fair, but to me a $6k+ truck should have zero issues that amount to an impending death sentence. Certainly not a flawless vehicle, but not one that could be a few bad winters away from junkworthy. e: I am also spoiled by the sheer lack of rust in AZ so take this as you will. Also, consider getting a non-rusty truck from AZ and driving it back.
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Oct 20, 2015 20:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Fair, but to me a $6k+ truck should have zero issues that amount to an impending death sentence. Certainly not a flawless vehicle, but not one that could be a few bad winters away from junkworthy. Oh believe me thats what I've been trying to do. I go to Tucson periodically for work so if I can find a rust free truck down there I could drive it back. Most of them are 2wd but I'm still looking. I've found one down by palm springs too that I may go look at soon. I've come to the realization that I need to get one from the desert. wilfredmerriweathr fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Oct 20, 2015 |
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Oct 20, 2015 20:56
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And that's what I get for growing up near Rochester NY. It bad enough where I wouldn't buy it but I have certainly owned and driven far worse.
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Oct 20, 2015 20:57
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Leperflesh posted:Exactly what failed on the emissions test? The specifics matter. It got 7% CO and 250HC in the first test, and then 1.5% CO and 190HC in the second. So properly over on CO! - limit is 0.2%/0.3% CO and 200HC. One of the hoses to the PCV from the throttle body was disconnected, and the Intake Air Temp sensor was off. Now reconnected. Tried to make it flash any codes out but it wouldn't - but then we realised that the check engine light doesn't flash on with the ignition so suspect there possibly isnt a bulb in it or it has died. Dad is going to pull the dash out and check. He replaced all the dash illumination lights not long ago and it is the same procedure for the warning lamp bulbs. Played with all the sensors in the engine bay in turn to see it they affected its running. It was idling fairly high (which dad said was usual) until I messed with the MAP sensor unit which suddenly made the idle drop and smooth out. Wonder if that is buggered and it was running open loop all the time? also took the battery off for an hour while welding it. Now it apparently drives better and feels nicer. After he fixes the bulb he's going to try and read the resistance of the engine coolant temp sensor to see if it is in spec (helpfully given in the manual for different temps). MAP sensors are cheap on ebay and there a loads of them on there so its tempting to throw one of them at it too.
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Oct 20, 2015 22:11
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Yeah, I think you're going down the right road there. Tomarse posted:also took the battery off for an hour while welding it.
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Oct 20, 2015 22:16
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InitialDave posted:Yeah, I think you're going down the right road there. I am assuming that taking the battery off for an hour or so also resets the ECU and clears any fault codes. It did on my old OBD1 Saab 900ng's. I had to weld up a bit of rust at the end of one sill inside the rear arch (I put some lower sill sections on it last year but didn't touch the ends) and I always disconnect the battery totally when welding. Have downloaded a Daewoo Service manual PDF (this one) and it is really good!. Have never seen so much useful detail in a manual. It explains exactly what the ECU does for fueling and ignition and for each sensor.
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Oct 20, 2015 22:33
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I was more wondering about the knife-edge division of "worth fixing" vs "gently caress this" on a Daewoo Matiz once things like welders are becoming necessary.
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Oct 20, 2015 23:15
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1987 Lada Niva. It pulls to the left. I've been trying to work out why for a while. Today I noticed that the right side has been shimmed for more a bit more positive camber and quite a bit of negative caster. Sadly my stupid brain can't work out whether that's reducing the effect or increasing it. Really I don't even know if the shimming was done by an alignment place or a crazy person. Would it be causing the pull, and would I be doing something dumb by removing the extra shims and seeing what happens? e: forward tilt is negative caster right? General_Failure fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Oct 21, 2015 |
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Oct 21, 2015 03:34
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Is there any decent one-stop site to search for junkyard parts? I'm trying to find a body panel the right color for my car because having one painted to match is $rape. I've been using http://www.car-part.com/ because it came up on google but half the places I call have long since sold the part in the result, or it's not actually that color, etc.
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Oct 21, 2015 06:30
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totalnewbie posted:160k miles is not "pretty low miles" unless we're talking about a big rig truck, here. It's a Toyota, the thing's barely been broken in 
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Oct 21, 2015 17:48
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Yeah that's by far the lowest mileage one I could find. Others are around 200k. They all have brand new looking coolant and oil. Its insane. There was a 98 in Idaho with 72k on it, was on craigslist for $6000 and when I called him he was like "current bid is 8000, if you're willing to agree to 8500 right now i'll hold it for you." Told him I wasn't willing to promise that without seeing the frame first.
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Oct 21, 2015 19:01
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Yeah that's by far the lowest mileage one I could find. Others are around 200k. They all have brand new looking coolant and oil. Its insane. I suspect the oil and coolant have been replaced at some point. It's not like that's a factory fill, looking nice and fresh at 200k.
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Oct 21, 2015 20:17
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Godholio posted:I suspect the oil and coolant have been replaced at some point. It's not like that's a factory fill, looking nice and fresh at 200k. Oh I know but on a Toyota it's still quite likely that its been 10k since the last oilchange. My 2001 Camry v6 would go 10k between changes and oil would come out looking like melted butter with no consumption whatsoever. And it had 250k on it. Toyotas of that vintage stand up to neglect and abuse in a magical way. Except the truck frames. wilfredmerriweathr fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Oct 21, 2015 |
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Oct 21, 2015 20:24
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Be glad, because that's actually the era of Camry V6s that had major sludge problems because Toyota upped the operating temperature for emissions purposes. Class action lawsuit, lots of replacement engines at <30k miles, etc.
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Oct 21, 2015 20:32
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Dang yeah I remember being worried about that until I check the oil for the first time and saw it looking brand spankin new.
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Oct 21, 2015 20:42
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Godholio posted:Be glad, because that's actually the era of Camry V6s that had major sludge problems because Toyota upped the operating temperature for emissions purposes. Class action lawsuit, lots of replacement engines at <30k miles, etc. My mom has a 1994 v6 Camry with 270k - the oil really does look like melted butter. It's actually strangely yellow. Anyway, she's going to get a timing belt and water pump done next week - it hasn't been done since 100k.
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Oct 21, 2015 20:59
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Got some new tires yesterday and the shop put the car on the lift improperly and bent the hell out of this part of my car (2010 Rav4): The rusty bit on the left side was when the same thing happened a couple years ago and I suspected them of it, but didn't notice it until several weeks after the service. This time around it was way more obvious, and I noticed it immediately. They said they'd pay to have their body shop fix it. Body shop just wants to bend it straight and paint it. I told him I wanted a second opinion first, what do you guys think?
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Oct 21, 2015 22:34
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InitialDave posted:I was more wondering about the knife-edge division of "worth fixing" vs "gently caress this" on a Daewoo Matiz once things like welders are becoming necessary. It is teetering on the edge. Saving grace being that despite its age it has only done about 60k miles and has a complete spare set of legal tyres (and wheels). I think it will be over the edge next year. Sister has been instructed to save up for a replacement. Might do her a good deal on my Aygo and get myself a newer/better one. This year the daewoo has cost one battery (£25), one lower suspension arm (£40) and a set of front brake pads, plus 1.5 hours of me welding and 2 or 3 days of my dads time (he'd retired so I assume his time is free!) so, assuming an MOT'd car is worth £500/year its still worth keeping. He has taken the dash apart and fitted a bulb into the check engine light and it now comes on with the ignition and then goes off. It apparently does 5,10,10 flashes when he shorts the diag pins - which should be a code 500 - which helpfully doesn't exist in the manual. P0400 does (in case he is miscounting and there is an initial check engine flash before the actual code flash?) which is an EGR code - but which is supposed to set the check engine to constant on - which it isnt. I have told him to try driving it a bit and see if he can get the light to come back and it to throw a useful code. He also says that the car now audibly drops from rough fast running to a smooth slower idle after it has warmed up a bit (assume this is open loop to closed loop) which it never used to, and he has been playing with my old gunson gas tester on it and says that at this point the reading on the gas tester drops significantly. he's going to get the garage to put it back on the proper emissions tester and see if my messing with the MAP and coolant sensors and removing the battery has actually fixed it.
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Oct 21, 2015 23:22
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fletcher posted:Got some new tires yesterday and the shop put the car on the lift improperly and bent the hell out of this part of my car (2010 Rav4): Take it to a different, reputable body shop. Get a quote, then take that quote back to the tire shop and politely state that they owe you that much.
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Oct 22, 2015 00:08
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I got a 99 integra 2dr and a 99 prelude How feasible would it be to take the 2 kenwood deck speakers out of the prelude, cut some holes in the partition on the integra that covers the trunk area and slap the speakers into them, basically making it a speaker deck? The partition is pretty sturdy so the weight shouldn't be a problem but I'm assuming acoustics and vibration might be. And would it be possible to have 6 speakers or would I have to deactivate the 2 rear speakers and wire them into the new deck speakers?
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Oct 22, 2015 06:22
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So, I pulled and swapped the gearbox on our suburban which helped some with the slop then adjusted the drag link to straighten the wheel, which added some serious wheel shifting. Does anyone know what's wrong? The tie rod ends are newer Moog brand ones and are still shiny. Also does anyone know a good place to get an alignment for this truck in NW Atlanta?
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Oct 22, 2015 14:17
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Can you find insulated washers at the chain auto parts stores? Alternatively is there any reason I couldn't just plasti dip a regular oversized washer and use that? Cabin light hasn't been working right in ages and has had to be left off, turns out the screws that hold it in place are creating a short.
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Oct 22, 2015 15:14
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You can scratch plastidip off with your fingers so as soon as you torque it down it's just going to make contact. You'll probably have better luck finding one at lowes or home Depot.
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Oct 22, 2015 15:40
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Yeah. Just get a neoprene washer. Alternatively, you might be able to find a nylon screw. For the life of me, I can't fathom how the screws that hold it in place are shorting it out.
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Oct 22, 2015 15:43
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Are there any states left in the Southwest that don't require a smog test to register a car brought in from out of state?
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Oct 22, 2015 18:21
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Safety Dance posted:Yeah. Just get a neoprene washer. Alternatively, you might be able to find a nylon screw.
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Oct 22, 2015 19:20
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Much of NV has no testing. Vegas area probably does.
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Oct 22, 2015 20:12
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I changed my oil last weekend, drove about 7 miles, and came back to find a puddle on my driveway. Turns out that the fumoto valve that had been leaking very slowly and then stopped decided to start leaking a lot as soon as the oil got near operating temperatures. I put a drain pan under it, and the drip had slowed a lot overnight. There seemed to still be a decent amount in there when I removed the pan today, so I risked driving the 10 feet into the garage rather than try to push it up the hill. Now I've swapped out the oil again, using the normal drain plug this time. I started it up again, and at first I heard a bit of ticking that I assume was valve noise. I double-checked the oil level, let it run for a minute or two, and it went away. The engine is still at high idle, though, and it's pretty noisy. My question is this: Did I likely gently caress something up, or is the fact that it's the coldest day so far and the car has been sitting since Sunday making it noisier? I'm also kind of paranoid and over-sensitive every time something is done to my car. E: The oil light never came on, and it's a '99 Subaru with the 2.2.
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Oct 22, 2015 20:32
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I don't remember if I posted this before. 95 Taurus with 139k on the 3 liter (had it a whole year now and the trans hasn't blown up yet, so shh about that.) Oil pressure light comes on intermittently at idle, goes away if I put in park or once I start accelerating. Car isn't low on oil. Think it's a sensor, just a worn out engine, or anything I should care too much about in a $700 car? It doesn't happen all the time, and when it does it's usually after 20+ miles of driving. Doesn't burn any noticeable oil or coolant, in fact it's been a surprisingly sturdy car.
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Oct 22, 2015 21:16
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could be a lot of things on a 20 year old car. I'd start with the pressure sensor.. if it still does it then you've got an oil pump issue, oil pickup issue or sludge buildup, the sensor will be the easiest thing and will tell you if you need to start spending more than you paid for the car in repairs.
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Oct 22, 2015 21:36
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Take it to a different, reputable body shop. Get a quote, then take that quote back to the tire shop and politely state that they owe you that much. Their body shop guy quote was for like $220. Went to what is apparently the best body shop in town and they quoted me at $1800, and they way they described the repair method sounded waaaaay more thorough than what the first guy was willing to do (of course). Just waiting to hear what the tire shop responds with now.
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Oct 23, 2015 00:17
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Good luck. I find the best results occur when I simply lay out the facts, acknowledge that they have insurance for issues like this, and state that I expect a check to be written. All done very politely but very firmly. Generally the response is super apologetic but they usually try to beat around the bush, offering me free repairs and rentals, which I deny and insist that I expect a check.
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Oct 23, 2015 00:31
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They said the estimate is very high and I should go to a different place for another estimate, and the estimate should only be for the left side of the car (I asked why, since both sides are damaged). They of course recommended a place I should get the other estimate at (I'm not gonna bother going there). I guess I can find somewhere else to get another estimate, but what pain in the rear end. I don't have time for this poo poo 
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Oct 23, 2015 01:16
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$220 vs. $1800 is probably the difference between "pound it straight-ish and put 97 cent spray paint on it" and replacing a part with a factory one.
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Oct 23, 2015 01:19
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fletcher posted:I don't have time for this poo poo Include an invoice for your time. Let them know that the longer they gently caress around, the more expensive it's going to get. If they keep waffling, see if you can get A Strongly Worded Letter from a lawyer.
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Oct 23, 2015 15:53
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I still can't decide on what to get, and i'm blaming it on the dealer(s). No one has the base model Toyota Tacoma in, just the souped up ones. Which made me look at the Honda CR-V's and they seem nice I guess  . Thanks again for all your help goons.
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Oct 23, 2015 18:05
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