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Mister Sinewave posted:My solution: buy a set of metric drill bits Actually, I'm trying to print this right now and it's warping like a motherfucker on its edges (230°C ABS, 120°C bed, all holes except top closed off):  Everyone swoons for PETG, because it's strong and doesn't warp for poo poo. That right? Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Oct 23, 2015 |
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Oct 23, 2015 17:45
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Warping was a persistent bugbear for me and from what I can tell is only a partially solved problem. I also got used to drilling out any holes that needed to actually be vaguely precise.
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Oct 23, 2015 17:56
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Combat Pretzel posted:Brim worked better. Tolerances are a bitch, tho. I've designed a part with M3 holes for screws and larger ones with 16.2mm diameter to clamp the part on tubes. The M3 holes are nearly fine, the tube holes are however nearly a millimeter smaller in diameter. Yet, the outside dimensions of the part are pretty much spot on. ABS will shrink a lot. As a general rule of thumb, I scale everything up by 2% when printing with ABS.
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Oct 23, 2015 18:05
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Combat Pretzel posted:Everyone swoons for PETG, because it's strong and doesn't warp for poo poo. That right? PET+, specifically. Super expensive, like printing Ninjaflex all the time. But yeah, it's very strong and doesn't warp when printing.
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Oct 23, 2015 18:44
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Combat Pretzel posted:The metric holes are fine interestingly. It's the huge ones that are way off. That model is horrific, generally you want as much contact with the bed as possible for FDM. Can you move the standoffs or whatever so they are flush? Use spacers as separate pieces if necessary?
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Oct 23, 2015 21:26
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Yeah that is going to be an absolute nightmare to print unless you can put that bottom surface flush on the bed.
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Oct 23, 2015 21:28
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Worked fine, until the brim and supports detached. The reason it stands off is to reinforce the holes (the fillets) from bending and breaking upon impact. Well, that, and there's additional material below to reinforce the area the PCB is located, so that expensive POS doesn't break. 
Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Oct 23, 2015 |
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Oct 23, 2015 21:31
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Slice that base panel on a plane midway between the two flat surfaces, print the two separate parts and put them together at assembly. There, I've solved your problem. EDIT for crude MSPaint of what I'm talking about. 
Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Oct 23, 2015 |
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Oct 23, 2015 21:47
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So trivial. 
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Oct 23, 2015 21:48
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After posting here every 6 months or so threatening to get into the game, something happened
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Oct 23, 2015 21:57
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I love my Rostock
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Oct 23, 2015 22:59
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Congrats...it's a fun build.
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Oct 23, 2015 23:00
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There's a major downside, though: it's for Christmas, I'm just ordering it now because I've seen a lot of 3D printer companies have very long wait times, and I figure as Christmas approaches, they might get backordered. I'd love to wait for a possible black friday deal, but I also don't want to wait until February for the drat thing. So now it'll probably get here before November, and I'll have to leave it in the closet for two months. 
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Oct 23, 2015 23:07
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Gives you time to pick up an e3d v6
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Oct 23, 2015 23:15
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Geirskogul posted:Gives you time to pick up an e3d v6 It's on the list!
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Oct 23, 2015 23:27
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Took some pics of some prints I did recently. Working on my photography/lighting.    
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Oct 24, 2015 03:38
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Got Octoprint with the camera working. http://youtu.be/iEWRqFr7uio
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Oct 24, 2015 20:08
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So I've been thinking about surface finishing (particularly for molding applications). I was reading about how in mold making for composite layups, instead of using bondo/filler then sanding with progressively finer grades of sandpaper, you can simply just brush/pour on a coat of epoxy that self levels (which sounds awesome to me because gently caress sanding). In fact, smooth-on sells a product specifically for 3d printed parts: http://www.smooth-on.com/Epoxy-Coatings-XTC/c1397_1429/index.html I had some clear epoxy adhesive lying around, so I thought I'd give it a shot just to get a feel for how it'd work. It actually works super well, but I got a bunch of bubbles in mine. I read about how you can blow them out with an hot air gun, so I tried that, but it ended up clouding the finish and making everything worse(probably from melting the ABS underneath). I'll probably try it with clear casting epoxy (for countertops and encapsulation), and will update when I have better results. The pieces below were printed at .035 layer height, and the epoxy had no trouble smoothing out the surface except in places where I didn't design the part properly for printing. 
rawrr fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Oct 24, 2015 |
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Oct 24, 2015 23:20
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Huh, that came out surprisingly well. Gotta try that.
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Oct 24, 2015 23:23
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Do you have any examples of the coating on a less organic shape?
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Oct 24, 2015 23:25
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Fayez Butts posted:Do you have any examples of the coating on a less organic shape? No, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. The only potential gotcha would be that depending on how thick you lay on the epoxy (I actually spatulaed mine on with a disposable knife, will try brushing it on next time), it may round out sharper corners and edges. e: actually, it might not be a good look for non-organic parts in general. I think the best way to visualize it as if the part has been sprayed with like 30 coats of varnish. rawrr fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Oct 25, 2015 |
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Oct 24, 2015 23:29
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What type of epoxy were you using?
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Oct 25, 2015 00:59
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JB clearweld. I originally bought it to repair a glass bubbler, and it actually worked great for structural glass repairs (though the epoxy has a yellow tint). I say that because I managed to break it again in a similar way, but it broke in a different location than where I had epoxied it. I just did another test with my second print, and here's what I've learned: Attempt #2: I figured since most of the bubbles were being blended in while I was mixing the two parts, I'd try what I've read about using the hot air gun to remove bubbles, except I'd do it before applying it to the part so I don't melt the ABS this time. It worked moderately well - I think what the heat does is lower the viscosity making it easier for bubbles to surface and escape, BUT immediately after removing the heat everything gummed up rendering the mixture unusable. Attempt #3 - I tried brushing the epoxy on this time, again, hoping to reduce bubbles. I'm not sure if there's a noticeable difference, but I'll take a side by side picture tomorrow after it cures. I'm thinking of using something like this to deal with the bubble issue, but perhaps there is a tradeoff between having bubbles (lower viscosity?) and the ability to fill in striations in prints. I should probably also give the acetone vapour bath method a serious attempt - I've tried it in the past and the results haven't tended to be great since I'm impatient and like to print at .035. e: Does anyone know if I can get away with just coating the piece in epoxy, let it cure a bit until tacky, then simply press the carbon fiber cloth onto it and brushing on a final top coat? If that doesn't work then I'll probably try printing out the molds (which is where the epoxy smoothing comes in), and letting everything cure while compressed. I'm hoping it won't have to come to that, since it looks like I'll have to cast one half of the mold out of silicone or it'd be impossible to de-mold given the part geometry. Probably a convoluted process for what I'm trying to do, but should be a fun project at least...  rawrr fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Oct 25, 2015 |
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Oct 25, 2015 01:27
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peepsalot posted:Working on my...lighting. I don't think you understand how light bulbs are supposed to work.
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Oct 25, 2015 02:00
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Bad Munki posted:I don't think you understand how light bulbs are supposed to work. its for scale  e: kinda offtopic, but I actually just ordered an insano lighting setup to play with, came out to $45 total which I was pretty pleased with. Light stand http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K69A0QY Umbrella http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005AKF0XM 85W CFL http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BISL11U Socket/umbrella mount http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZURY3Y Can't wait for it to come in. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Oct 25, 2015 |
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Oct 25, 2015 03:29
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Results from the 3rd test (on left). Much more presentable but still not good enough. Also shows in better detail the cloudiness/general fuckiness of test #1 after my attempt with the heat gun (near the top right of the pic). Nonetheless, brushing it on is definitely the way to go as there's better control, and there's no worry about brush strokes showing up since the epoxy will self level. The brush seems to clean up nicely with acetone.
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Oct 25, 2015 04:09
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Is it normal that I have I have to level the build plate every day? --edit: I suppose using end switches and then backing off is only so precise.
Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Oct 25, 2015 |
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Oct 25, 2015 13:28
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It's machine specific. I only have to level the bed on the TAZ I use at work when I change out the film on the bed. Even then the last time I did it I only had to adjust one corner.
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Oct 25, 2015 15:15
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rawrr posted:JB clearweld. I originally bought it to repair a glass bubbler, and it actually worked great for structural glass repairs (though the epoxy has a yellow tint). I say that because I managed to break it again in a similar way, but it broke in a different location than where I had epoxied it. As for carbon fiber, I honestly might not even wait for it to get tacky; with hand-layup when you're not super concerned about weight you just slop on the epoxy, press the fabric into it, then add another coat and put another layer on. You want the epoxy/matrix embedded in your fabric, so soaking it through is best. The only downside to this is increased weight (because more epoxy) and reduced strength (because the matrix is weaker than your fibers), but for a surface finish it doesn't matter.
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Oct 25, 2015 18:45
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DarkHorse posted:You're right about temperature lowering viscosity and letting bubbles come out easier, but 2-part epoxies (like I imagine you're using for JBWeld) are a chemical reaction and so adding heat accelerates the curing process. Since you're probably using manual mixing there's not really any way to avoid introducing air into it, so your options are to get a really long-curing epoxy (which would be a pain to deal with) or find some other way of mixing that doesn't introduce air. Thanks for the tips - I'm going to try what you've suggested, in addition to presaturating the fabric before applying it to the piece. My concern was with the cf not adhering to the complex curves of the part without constant pressure, but if it's not a problem then I'm okay with the lower strength/stiffness to weight ratio because, like you said, it's just a cosmetic part.
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Oct 25, 2015 19:15
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Is Prusa i3 still a good starting point for 3D printing?
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Oct 25, 2015 19:33
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It'll depend on the type of fabric you have. Plainweave is generally stiffer and doesn't drape as well as something like 8-harness-satin, but you should be able to get it to lie down if you keep pushing and shoving it around. Try doing it dry first and nudge the fibers around until you think you've got an idea of how to place it, and then apply your epoxy and start from some center point and work your way around and out. Make sure you have an epoxy that leaves you enough time to work. If your shape is too extreme you may need to make some selective cuts or darts to get things to lie down well enough. That's going to be a lot easier than trying to get a molding operation to work unless you have experience with it. If you want a super-nice surface finish you can make a female mold and try vacuum-bagging it, but that will also be a lot of effort and has a lot of unique challenges depending on your geometry. DarkHorse fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Oct 25, 2015 |
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Oct 25, 2015 19:34
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DarkHorse posted:It'll depend on the type of fabric you have. Plainweave is generally stiffer and doesn't drape as well as something like 8-harness-satin, but you should be able to get it to lie down if you keep pushing and shoving it around. Try doing it dry first and nudge the fibers around until you think you've got an idea of how to place it, and then apply your epoxy and start from some center point and work your way around and out. Make sure you have an epoxy that leaves you enough time to work. If your shape is too extreme you may need to make some selective cuts or darts to get things to lie down well enough. I'm thinking of using twill as I'm not a fan of the plainweave look, and it seems like twill will work better for compound curves anyway. I'll be trying a variety of methods; I can definitely see how it'll take a lot of experimenting. Appreciate your suggestions though; should save me a lot of trial and error.
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Oct 25, 2015 19:42
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Just a thought, has anyone tried putting fibreglass and resin over a print?
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Oct 26, 2015 08:20
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refleks posted:Is Prusa i3 still a good starting point for 3D printing? I don't know of anything better at that price point, but I haven't really been keeping up with the state of entry level printers. 
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Oct 26, 2015 09:19
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I use this stuff on 3d prints at work, and it's worked pretty well for me. Really easy to mix and apply, and only like 15 minutes dry time if you bake it: http://www.amazon.com/Filabot-XTC24-XTC-3D-Performance-Coating/dp/B00TS7TYXA/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1445882549&sr=8-10&keywords=3d+print
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Oct 26, 2015 19:03
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Anyone have ideas for alternative uses for some wildly out of spec filament? I have some garbage 1.75mm PLA that measures up to like 2.25 in places.
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Oct 27, 2015 06:56
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If you have a dual extruder, use it for infill-only set at the estimated average dimensions?
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Oct 27, 2015 06:58
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peepsalot posted:Anyone have ideas for alternative uses for some wildly out of spec filament? I have some garbage 1.75mm PLA that measures up to like 2.25 in places. Ballast? Really wirey hair for a wig? beads to fill a weighted blanket? The worst taco filling ever?
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Oct 27, 2015 07:59
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Buy/make your own filament extruder, shred the bad filament and turn it into new filament.
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Oct 27, 2015 13:15
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