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I use dickblick pretty much exclusively. Here's links to exactly what I use: Burnt Umber (Delvin Mud), Cassel Earth (black with brown undertone), Cadium Red + Cadium Oranage (rust color) http://www.dickblick.com/products/maimeri-classico-oil-colors/ Thinned with this (250ml): http://www.dickblick.com/products/maimeri-white-spirit/ ... and some Alkyd Oil Painting Medium to make it act more like a wash: http://www.dickblick.com/products/grumbacher-oil-painting-mediums/ My recipe is in krushgroove's awesome OP.
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Oct 23, 2015 21:16
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Nice! Along the same "recipe" lines, anyone know how to turn alcohol inks into alcohol paints?
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Oct 23, 2015 22:30
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Here's a dumb question I should have asked earlier. I'm assembling a bunch of lead minis - actual factual lead, not white metal - and I'm having to trim and file them to get them to fit together. Should I be wearing a mask when I scrape at this stuff, or is it sufficiently heavy that even lead dust won't float up? Related question, what's the best way to get all this lead off my files?
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Oct 23, 2015 22:40
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grassy gnoll posted:Here's a dumb question I should have asked earlier. I'm assembling a bunch of lead minis - actual factual lead, not white metal - and I'm having to trim and file them to get them to fit together. Should I be wearing a mask when I scrape at this stuff, or is it sufficiently heavy that even lead dust won't float up? Glove would be a good idea when filing lead. A mask wouldn't hurt, but unless you are really filing up a storm ID say you can give it a miss. To clean your files you need a file brush. http://www.amazon.com/Osborn-International-75116SP-Steel-Length/dp/B00J06IPQG/ref=pd_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0JHT5RJY6X3XK2Y6SSTV Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Oct 23, 2015 |
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Oct 23, 2015 22:51
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oath thread xxxpostGareth Gobulcoque posted:OATH COMPLETE
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Oct 24, 2015 00:57
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:oath thread xxxpost Those blends 
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Oct 24, 2015 03:51
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grassy gnoll posted:Here's a dumb question I should have asked earlier. I'm assembling a bunch of lead minis - actual factual lead, not white metal - and I'm having to trim and file them to get them to fit together. Should I be wearing a mask when I scrape at this stuff, or is it sufficiently heavy that even lead dust won't float up? Are you putting the models in your mouth for hours at a time? If the answer is yes, you have a problem. If the answer is no, you have nothing to fear over working with a handful of lead models.
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Oct 24, 2015 15:04
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I couldn't resist experimenting with some custom tokens when i really should be working on my Ferrum for an upcoming tournament. The orange ones are two variants for damage tokens, with the big one i tried my hand at an army logo and i'm thinking of using those as activation tokens. I'd probably go with yellow for the productions model on that. I haven't forgotten about the tutorial but i haven't gotten around to it either 
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Oct 24, 2015 15:28
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I'd like some advice! I'm planning to paint up an Infinity mini as The Boss for my Third Street Saints Deadzone/Warpath Enforcers. As part of the colorscheme, I'm going to be putting on little gold fleur de lis decals, because Saints. This is the shoulder of the Infinity mini, where I'd like to put the decal--it's the best spot to do so:  How would I go about filling in that shallow symbol that's already there, so that I have a smooth surface for my new logo?
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Oct 24, 2015 15:40
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Odd that the videos are quality when the White Dwarf guides were always useless. They'd tell you to add layers that were then entirely covered-over, and most of the tips were, essentially, "Now, finely detail this area." Paint exceptionally well, you're welcome!  I've written guides that include photos and tips about how to brace your hands to steady them. I also included photos of some of my badly fishtailed brushes that I still have use for (massage the brush in the paint on the palette, gently twist it in one direction to retrain the bristles).
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Oct 24, 2015 16:05
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Esser-Z posted:I'd like some advice! I'm planning to paint up an Infinity mini as The Boss for my Third Street Saints Deadzone/Warpath Enforcers. As part of the colorscheme, I'm going to be putting on little gold fleur de lis decals, because Saints. Mix talcum powder and superglue into a paste and fill it in. Then sand smooth when its dry.
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Oct 24, 2015 16:12
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Esser-Z posted:I'd like some advice! I'm planning to paint up an Infinity mini as The Boss for my Third Street Saints Deadzone/Warpath Enforcers. As part of the colorscheme, I'm going to be putting on little gold fleur de lis decals, because Saints. You basically have two options here: 1. File it down until smooth. Time-consuming, but probably the most straightforward. 2. Fill in the gap with some greenstuff or liquid green stuff, then smooth it out like what Z said. Never tried the talcum/super glue method.
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Oct 24, 2015 16:29
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Slimnoid posted:2. Fill in the gap with some greenstuff or liquid green stuff, then smooth it out like what Z said. Never tried the talcum/super glue method. I would advise against greenstuff. It won't sand well, and as the design is so shallow it's not adherent enough to stay and will fall out. Superglue and talcum is sticky and easy to file when cured. Best way to sort out shallow gaps like that. I think most other putties, even fileable ones like tamiya and squadron, will have issues with adhesion.
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Oct 24, 2015 16:37
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Z the IVth posted:I would advise against greenstuff. It won't sand well, and as the design is so shallow it's not adherent enough to stay and will fall out. Superglue and talcum is sticky and easy to file when cured. Best way to sort out shallow gaps like that. I think most other putties, even fileable ones like tamiya and squadron, will have issues with adhesion. Hm, good point. Although if you smooth the greenstuff out properly before it cures, you shouldn't need to file it at all. Should've said that instead.
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Oct 24, 2015 16:42
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serious gaylord posted:Are you putting the models in your mouth for hours at a time?  Who wants to know?
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Oct 24, 2015 19:11
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Finally done with all the Ferrum parts, tomorrow it's glass varnish time. Then panel lining and matt varnish later the week.
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Oct 24, 2015 21:38
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Slimnoid posted:Hm, good point. Although if you smooth the greenstuff out properly before it cures, you shouldn't need to file it at all. Should've said that instead. One thing I have found about greenstuff, and I'm not sure if its my technique or a property of the putty, is that I have difficulty doing a smooth blend into a second material - ie blending into metal. There will be a step visible. I can blend greenstuff to greenstuff fine, but I have trouble with multi-media. I get around this by making the greenstuff sandable with magic sculpt and just sanding it smooth. Has anyone noticed this?
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Oct 25, 2015 12:38
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I finally finished my LRDG chevy, you know the one that started off in June looking like this.  It's a gift for my Father-in- Law and I hope he likes it this week. Sorry for the bad photos my lighting is terrible. Will try to take some better ones in day light of anyone is interested.        
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Oct 25, 2015 21:42
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I'm working on some of my first Chaos dudes! So far I'm having a good time painting and am fairly satisfied with what's coming along but would love a little help. http://imgur.com/a/K3BeK Here are my current WIPs. I just noticed some lines that need cleaning on my Aspiring Champion there and I know I need to try drybrushing to highlight. I'm still a little confused as to what colors I should be using to highlight. Are there any other things I'm missing or need to focus on as I practice and improve? I'm having some trouble with the detail work, like the little insignias on their shoulder pads. Are there any tricks for those?
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Oct 26, 2015 02:05
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I finished my terminators and chaplains last night. Enjoy some crappy cell phone pictures because my digital camera bit the dust.   And a bonus image of my cramped little drawing table: 
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Oct 26, 2015 02:59
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I have some bits of cork on a base that I want to fill some gaps in on. Can I use greenstuff or ProCreate to do that, or should I go buy some wood filler?
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Oct 26, 2015 04:23
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big_g posted:I finally finished my LRDG chevy, you know the one that started off in June looking like this. This is a work of art! Worth the wait to see the finished article. Read a book about the long range desert group once , years ago, some bad rear end kiwis!
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Oct 26, 2015 05:20
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big_g posted:I finally finished my LRDG chevy, you know the one that started off in June looking like this.
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Oct 26, 2015 05:34
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Z the IVth posted:Mix talcum powder and superglue into a paste and fill it in. Then sand smooth when its dry. Alright, I'll try that out! Thanks!
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Oct 26, 2015 12:13
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Sorry to be spamming the thread with this but it'll be the last you see of it now. I took some shots in daylight today which show the colours a bit better I think.      
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Oct 26, 2015 12:40
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big_g posted:It's a gift for my Father-in- Law and I hope he likes it this week. Well I hope he likes it every week  For real it's aces. And I'm pretty sure if the pics are pretty then it's not spam at all.And star man those little green are sweet- that shade of green always looks choice on marines.
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Oct 26, 2015 14:56
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A Spooky Skeleton posted:I'm working on some of my first Chaos dudes! So far I'm having a good time painting and am fairly satisfied with what's coming along but would love a little help. It's a bit hard to see what's going on in the photos. Next time, keep your lamp in front of the figures so we can see what's going on. That said, they look a little flat, so give them a wash and marvel at your sudden talent. I'd use a dark brown for the red and a lighter brown for any bone. Bone is highlighted by mixing in some white, red is highlighter with a purer red or a reddish orange. Don't highlight with red mixed with white unless you want a pinkish look.
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Oct 26, 2015 16:06
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big_g posted:Sorry to be spamming the thread with this but it'll be the last you see of it now. I took some shots in daylight today which show the colours a bit better I think.
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Oct 26, 2015 17:47
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Electric Hobo posted:It's a bit hard to see what's going on in the photos. Next time, keep your lamp in front of the figures so we can see what's going on. Ah! I was pretty conservative with some purple washes. So I should go HAM with something more appropriate? I figured that lighter purple would work well for the reddish-purple I was doing on the power armor. I did go heavy with the washes on skulls but then I cleaned up the upper parts with the white again because it just sort of looked like there was a little black on top of it and it just looked like a dirty skulll. Is there a trick to finding that middle ground? I seem to either thin the washes too much or have a dirty looking model and need to fix it.
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Oct 26, 2015 22:19
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big_g posted:Sorry to be spamming the thread with this but it'll be the last you see of it now. I took some shots in daylight today which show the colours a bit better I think. Good stuff
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Oct 27, 2015 00:46
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big_g posted:Sorry to be spamming the thread with this but it'll be the last you see of it now. I took some shots in daylight today which show the colours a bit better I think. This is my favourite part.
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Oct 27, 2015 08:38
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 I need to know what I have to do to save this model from making me hate it. What I've done here is a simple base coat, a few panels in grey, and then I mopped it with ink. It's fine for panel lining, but makes the whole thing look dirty. Is there a way to darken the recesses here without loving up the panels, and without taking an hour per mini? I have to paint a ton of these things.
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Oct 27, 2015 16:15
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Yes. For that color you want green ink with just a tiny bit of black (most green "shades" will have this in already). Using black or dark brown will give that dirty/oily effect.
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Oct 27, 2015 16:23
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signalnoise posted:
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Oct 27, 2015 16:28
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You can also employ the wash n wipe strategy of giving the model a thinned wash then wiping off the topmost layer on the panels etc. with a bit of tissue.
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Oct 27, 2015 16:49
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Zark the Damned posted:You can also employ the wash n wipe strategy of giving the model a thinned wash then wiping off the topmost layer on the panels etc. with a bit of tissue. Can leave ugly tide marks if not done quick enough.
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Oct 27, 2015 17:03
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signalnoise posted:
You're never going to get amazing results on single figures if your goal is "under an hour", especially Infinity figures that are full of details. I'd go over the individual armour panels with green to clean them up, and maybe pick out some details in a contrasting colour like red.
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Oct 27, 2015 17:26
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serious gaylord posted:Can leave ugly tide marks if not done quick enough. A drop or so of drying retarder should help this, right?
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Oct 27, 2015 17:37
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:You're never going to get amazing results on single figures if your goal is "under an hour", especially Infinity figures that are full of details. That's a mantic enforcer.
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Oct 27, 2015 17:53
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spectralent posted:That's a mantic enforcer. Really? Mantic sculpts have got good! Explains why speed was a factor though.
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Oct 27, 2015 19:23
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