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Renaissance Robot posted:Oh right, so it's kind of like the difference between Philips and JIS screw heads: they're both perfectly fine but it's easy to over-tighten the latter and thereby gently caress up the bike if you don't know what you're doing. Renaissance Robot posted:Probably the front of the van? Cargo compartment is usually separate from the cabin in hires. If not would I have any joy putting a wire tie on the front brake do you think? Collateral Damage posted:You need to carry paperwork? If I get stopped the police just does an online check of my plate number and gets all the registration and insurance information. All I need is my license, which conveniently is credit card sized. 
solarNativity fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Oct 25, 2015 |
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Oct 25, 2015 22:09
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I just got done doing the low-mileage-sat-for-a-while thing with my KLR. It's a 2001, I bought it with 4800 miles. The owner rode it around offroad for 3 years then moved to the city and it sat. 100% stock, very little recent maintenance, ran like poo poo but it was all there and it was all reasonably clean and in great condition. Everything needed work, in sequence. It was never on the road for more than a couple of days before something else would go off. It was fun, though. I knew what I was getting into when I met the guy. I don't know how this guy ended up owning a KLR and not a BMW. I've got it running great, and now I know firsthand that it's up to date on all its maintenance and I'm familiar with doing all of it myself.
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Oct 27, 2015 03:49
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That mirrors my experience to my '08 Ulysses with 4700 miles on it. Got it in March. Average <700mi/year. Needed new spark plugs, new plug wires, new wheel bearings, new VR, new air filter, new tires, and new intake seals. Oil too because why not.
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Oct 27, 2015 04:12
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Re: shipping my dad's GT80 most of the way across Australia. It's done. One $60 local bike tow job, $100 to crate it at a bike shop and $680 interstate shipping. Got to see it picked up within the hour of paying. Now to worry and punch in the tracking details every few hours for a week. Feels great to get it done.
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Oct 27, 2015 05:56
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Here's a dumb question. My new bike has nitrogen in the tires from the dealer. I have an air compressor in my garage and like to maintain my own pressures without having to stop at a shop. I check every time I ride and usually add a couple psi back in every week or so or maybe try different pressures. Do I just let the nitrogen out and fill with air?
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Oct 27, 2015 18:36
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BlackLaser posted:Here's a dumb question. My new bike has nitrogen in the tires from the dealer. I have an air compressor in my garage and like to maintain my own pressures without having to stop at a shop. I check every time I ride and usually add a couple psi back in every week or so or maybe try different pressures. Do I just let the nitrogen out and fill with air? Just add/remove air normally.
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Oct 27, 2015 18:42
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What's the (theoretical) advantage of having pure nitrogen in your tires anyway?
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Oct 27, 2015 18:50
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Collateral Damage posted:What's the (theoretical) advantage of having pure nitrogen in your tires anyway? less "air" leaks out. The atmosphere is like 78% nitrogen anyway though...
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Oct 27, 2015 18:51
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I thought it was something with moisture, that with pure nitrogen the pressure changes less with temperature.
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Oct 27, 2015 19:04
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Ola posted:I thought it was something with moisture, that with pure nitrogen the pressure changes less with temperature. More linearly, I think. Also when your brakes catch fire and the tires go pop, all that nitrogen is a pretty good smothering agent (well, it doesn't *add* oxygen to the reaction). OK that last one just applies to large aircraft.
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Oct 27, 2015 20:41
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Fill your tyres with helium to reduce unsprung weight.
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Oct 27, 2015 20:50
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Fill your tyres with helium to reduce unsprung weight. Too heavy. Use hydrogen!
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Oct 27, 2015 20:50
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Only use the especially formulated Motorex brand air, as stated in the manual.
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Oct 27, 2015 21:37
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What the hell's going on with my barend mirror? I went to remove it on my last trackday, and it wouldn't come out (worked fine the TD before that, and on the other clipon). Normally when I remove it, the black/gold cylinder comes off with the bolt - this time the bolt just spun forever but with resistance (not like it's stripped). Yanking with locking pliers didn't help. I've never removed the cylinder that sits inside the bar, so I'm not sure if it's the diagonal cut kind or what. You can see the metal seems like it splitting, which is bizarre because I've never put enough force on it to do that.
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Oct 28, 2015 23:02
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Usually that's fixed by working it up and down as you loosen it. Eventually you get enough friction to unscrew it. Also sometimes you have to drive the center bolt back in, depending on the design, if the center part that spreads the arms outward against the inside of the bar has gotten stuck too far in.
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Oct 29, 2015 04:39
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Regarding the off-roaded ZZR600, when I checked the chain last week the actual links appeared to have good coating of oil but the rollers were orange. I didn't check the play but assuming it actually rotates alright and doesn't have any sticky spots, are surface rusted rollers a major problem? Or can I just throw some extra lubricant on and be okay for a while?
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Oct 29, 2015 15:01
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Renaissance Robot posted:Regarding the off-roaded ZZR600, when I checked the chain last week the actual links appeared to have good coating of oil but the rollers were orange. As long as you don't actually live by the seaside, chains can take vast amount of abuse. Just make sure it goes around cleanly and doesn't have an audible rattle at speed. Being a terrible person my bike chains don't really get checked except at service. Also, if you're riding over winter, I cannot recommend Pilot Road 4s enough - pricey, but oh so worth it.
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Oct 30, 2015 16:41
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Angrymog posted:Also, if you're riding over winter, I cannot recommend Pilot Road 4s enough - pricey, but oh so worth it. Im considering these tires as I am due for a replacement. Are they appropriate for a bike that sees a lot of commuting miles?
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Oct 30, 2015 18:46
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Yeah Pilot Roads wear like iron.
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Oct 30, 2015 18:47
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PR4's are basically the only tire you should get unless you're riding a dirt bike or a supersport. Wear incredibly well, great in the wet and cold, tons of grip and super predictable.
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Oct 30, 2015 19:14
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The only reason not to get PR4 is if you can get a deal on PR3s. Here's a PR3 after a 6,000 mile trip: 
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Oct 30, 2015 19:17
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Eh I enjoy the Bridgestone T30 on my FZ1 infinitely more than the PR4 I had. E: Especially for like $70 less or whatever.
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Oct 30, 2015 19:52
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Good feedback, thanks. Sounds like the right tire for racking up some miles.
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Oct 30, 2015 20:43
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My bike rides better on PR3s in the rain than my car. Love these tires!
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Oct 30, 2015 21:03
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Put a new pipe and a new spark plug in the drz400 today. After installing everything I can't get the bike to start unless it's in priming mode. It runs lean when it's running in priming mode but that's just because I haven't re-jetted it yet. Any idea what could be causing the issue?
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Oct 31, 2015 01:42
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Did you forget to connect the vacuum line?
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Oct 31, 2015 02:15
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Got enough gas in the tank?
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Oct 31, 2015 02:47
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Plenty of gas. We didn't take the tank completely off when we pulled the spark plug. I'm guessing we probably pinched the vacuum line or something. I'll check it tomorrow.
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Oct 31, 2015 02:53
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Hmm drz trouble... Have you tried knocking it over a couple times?
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Oct 31, 2015 03:33
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Obligatory "if all else fails, park it by a highway".
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Oct 31, 2015 04:01
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 . I'm not sure if it's implying that California models have an extra emission control system or if all DRZ's have them. But regardless, if I was messing around with the tank and the spark plugs I'm guessing that the vacuum hose in this diagram is the only thing that could have gotten messed up to create my problem right? Or is there another hose somewhere else I should check?
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Oct 31, 2015 04:31
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that'll do it. also do yourself a favor and delete the ca emissions poo poo.
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Oct 31, 2015 04:34
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I would read that as S and SM models sold in California. Not Californian, S, and SM models.
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Oct 31, 2015 04:35
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cursedshitbox posted:also do yourself a favor and delete the ca emissions poo poo. Except don't do this. Not only is the vapor bad for everyone and what not, would you rather the gas evaporate into the air or be recirculated back into your system for use? Would you rather have a small charcoal canister or lose gas to evaporation? Unless cursedshitbox was being sarcastic.
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Oct 31, 2015 04:53
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Don't you have to start it in prime mode every time since it's a vacuum fuel valve? Or at least the first time you start it for the day? Carbs are hard 
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Oct 31, 2015 04:55
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El Jebus posted:Except don't do this. Not only is the vapor bad for everyone and what not, would you rather the gas evaporate into the air or be recirculated back into your system for use? Would you rather have a small charcoal canister or lose gas to evaporation?  Mine is gone, but that was done long before I came along. 1 way check valve will cure the fuel vapor. E: I'm doing the environment a huge disservice with my flatslide, stroker, cams, and upped compression, but I don't really give two shits. velocross posted:Don't you have to start it in prime mode every time since it's a vacuum fuel valve? Or at least the first time you start it for the day? Carbs are hard No. set it and forget it till you run out, then move it to reserve, and back to on when you fill up. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Oct 31, 2015 |
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Oct 31, 2015 05:12
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Hmm well I don't live in CA so I'm guessing my bike doesn't have that. Is that still the only vacuum line that I could have messed up though?
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Oct 31, 2015 05:26
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Probably. Worst case guy, PM me tomorrow with some photos or sommat. I'll be in the hills playing in the dirt but Ill be home in the evening.
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Oct 31, 2015 05:27
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Unsuccessful finding any tools at garage sales this morning, but my landlord had a socket set, so was able to get started on trying to fix up this 1991 Honda CR110 (postie) I bought this week. Backstory: paid AU$700 for it, previous owner was a uni student who doesn't look to have taken too good of care of it. Being a relative novice and this thing having no shortage of stuff needing attention, I have lots of questions! -When I got it, headlight worked dimly (high beams didn't work at all) but even the regular one quit working after a day or so. I opened up the headlight assembly this afternoon and there's a 12V bulb in there (Honda didn't switch the electrics to 12V until '95), which wouldn't have been helping things. Will order a 6V bulb and take it from there. Other electrical: indicators are quite dim at idle, OK when engine is revving higher. Have read that the bike doesn't need a battery to run (fair enough, neither did my old XLR), but shop manual suggests that weak power to electrics while engine is running might be a weak/dead battery. Pretty sure battery is dead or close to it, as nothing electrical works with the ignition on but engine not running.  -While I was in there, I used my phone's camera to peek up into the gauge cluster... the nonfunctioning N and high beam indicators are not only non-functioning, but appear to be non-existent, sigh. That's going on the "someday" list, have more pressing issues at the moment. When I get a multimeter I'll check the wires and see if they're at least working.  PO said he'd just changed the oil when I bought it, to his credit it looks fresh. I took the bike out on a quick 5 minute ride, came back, put it on the centre stand, and this is what I got (after wiping it down before re-inserting, without screwing it in). The oil went as high as the red range indicates, should only be as far up as the top of the blue range. Is there anything else I might be missing here, or is this just massively over-filled? Torque wrench isn't here yet so I'd rather not undo the drain plug. I've also had the bike start to creep forward a bit at stops when it's in first on occasion, so thought the centrifugal clutch could use some adjusting. I read up on some tutorials and tried it, but seemed to make it worse. When I have it on the centre stand and in neutral, revving the engine will cause the rear wheel to spin a bit, although when I've got the wheel planted on the ground it's not enough to move the bike any noticeable amount. Was able to get it back to how it was before, I think? Honestly not entirely sure, need to do some more tests as I ran out of daylight/energy. Aside from the adjustment, could the creep in first be a symptom of worn clutch plates? Other: Choke situation: bike doesn't like running without the choke. Google is telling me the gaskets on the air box/line might be bad? First move is going to be ordering some stuff to clean the air filter and see if that helps any. Doesn't help that the knob on the choke is broken off, making it kind of hard to tell the position. I looked through a box of carbs at the wrecker's yesterday but couldn't find a replacement one, so guess I'll have to epoxy my own tab on there. I adjusted the idle screw and it runs at idle without choke now, but realise that's not a good way to deal with things. Current shopping list: Parts
Tools
I'll leave you guys with my own (temporary!) contribution to the bike's crudiness: ordering a new rear signal, but needed to get the current one to stop drooping in the interim so I raided the kitchen: 
Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 12:08 on Oct 31, 2015 |
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Oct 31, 2015 11:31
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I don't know about you guys, but i love being hurt by californian s & m models.
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Oct 31, 2015 15:48
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