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SperginMcBadposter posted:How do I determine which clutch cylinder failed on a car? The fluid level in the resevoir hasn't dropped at all. If I push the pedal to the floor the clutch will disengage like normal, but will slowly re-engage while I hold it there and the pedal becomes soft. After I let it come all the way back up the pedal firms up again. Master. The slave doesn't have anywhere for leaking fluid to neatly return back into the system, so a failure should always manifest as a leak. The master can leak fluid from the high-pressure side back to the return, keeping the fluid level constant.
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Oct 26, 2015 17:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:Master. The slave doesn't have anywhere for leaking fluid to neatly return back into the system, so a failure should always manifest as a leak. The master can leak fluid from the high-pressure side back to the return, keeping the fluid level constant. Thanks.
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Oct 26, 2015 17:17
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Safety Dance posted:Depending on how much of a 400lb gorilla you plan to be with ratchet straps, those might be a little on the weak side. If it were me, I might use those or slightly larger, and I'd make a backing plate to go on the bottom side to better distribute the load.
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Oct 26, 2015 17:27
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Gray Matter posted:Maybe 2-300 miles, only a couple extended trips though. Usually I'm either doing a drive cycle, which is ~12 minutes of driving at highway speeds, and then 12 minutes back home, or driving 7 miles to work. Do some varied driving. Hit a highway for 30 min then haven lunch and do city driving back. There is no x miles to ready it's usually speed and engine temperature changes. For evap fill your tank the let it run down to 1/4, that should set that back uo.
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Oct 26, 2015 17:35
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I've also seen it put that the number of miles don't matter and it's the way in which you drive it (drive cycles) that set them.
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Gray Matter posted:Maybe 2-300 miles, only a couple extended trips though. Usually I'm either doing a drive cycle, which is ~12 minutes of driving at highway speeds, and then 12 minutes back home, or driving 7 miles to work. I would get some longer trips in, try a couple hour road trip. Does the car have a temperature gauge? Sometimes if the thermostat is weak it won't get up to temperature or take too long to get up to temperature, this will keep the catalyst monitor from setting. Also, the evap monitor will only set between 1/4 and 3/4 of a tank.
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Oct 26, 2015 18:02
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I've been meaning to try a longer trip, will attempt that this weekend when I have time. It does have a temp gauge, I've been starting from cold engine for the drive cycles and it usually takes 5ish minutes from cold with the AC and rear defrost running to get to 190ish degrees. It also has been starting from cold in closed loop, which I thought was weird - or is that normal? I only noticed it after replacing the O2 sensors, didn't have the scanner prior to that to see if it was doing it before. Haven't had too much trouble getting evap to set, the catalyst is my major headache.
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Oct 26, 2015 19:16
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0toShifty posted:On the older Honda engines - I know there are holes like that provided for hoisting the engine - the service manual tells you to attach a hoisting bracket to that hole with a M10x1.25 bolt. There should be one diagonally opposite, back of the head for the other hoist point I think. Thanks! Glad I piqued your interest. https://xkcd.com/356/
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Oct 26, 2015 20:57
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I know this might seem like a retarded question, so I'll be brief and blunt: Does the Toyota Aygo only have one reversing light? My inspection (not sure if that's translated right) is booked and I just noticed only one light is on when reversing. The manual said one side was reversing and one was fog but I've never heard of this setup before so I just want to make sure I'm interpreting it right. It's my first inspection since i bought the car. It's a 2011 model.
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Oct 26, 2015 22:37
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Foxhound posted:I know this might seem like a retarded question, so I'll be brief and blunt: Totally normal and common on many European and European market cars, as well as particularly small cars like the Aygo.
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Oct 26, 2015 22:40
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Slavvy posted:Totally normal and common on many European and European market cars, as well as particularly small cars like the Aygo. Phew, thanks. That's a load off my mind.
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Oct 26, 2015 22:41
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How much do you have to pay for a recent (say '05-) Crown Vic with the P71 package stateside? There's usually a couple for sale heere in Sweden but I think the prices are inflated and I sort of want one in the future (read: when I'm not broke as a joke).
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Oct 27, 2015 13:42
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Cached Money posted:How much do you have to pay for a recent (say '05-) Crown Vic with the P71 package stateside? There's usually a couple for sale heere in Sweden but I think the prices are inflated and I sort of want one in the future (read: when I'm not broke as a joke).  Here's a cap from Craigslist in the middle of the country.
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Oct 27, 2015 15:32
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They seem to be between $4000 and $8000 around that year in eastern California/western Nevada. There's a 2011 for sale for almost $13000.
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Oct 27, 2015 15:34
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I've taken in my car a couple times to different mechanics but no one can tell me what is doing this. I've got a 2000 toyota camry LE, w/4-cylinder engine, and the issue is that whenever I'm turning (especially sharply) at low speeds, my steering wheel makes a sighing sound. It sounds like the surface of wet rubber being rubbed. Lately, when it makes this noise, I can also feel the accelerator pedal vibrate/move with the sound. The brake pedal is unaffected.
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Oct 27, 2015 16:18
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MomJeans420 posted:My friend''s 2002 Honda Accord is throwing a P0740 code - torque converter clutch circuit. From looking online, it seems that replacing the TCC solenoid doesn't always fix the issue, the code is sometimes indicative of a bigger tranny issue. Since the part is ~$180, I'm guessing she's much better off just going to a Honda specialist to get it diagnosed? $180 for a part is pretty expensive if it doesn't fix the issue. Apparently the car is shifting fine right now, but the code has been there for a while (and comes back when it's cleared). If it's the V6 I know those transmissions were very problematic.
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Oct 27, 2015 23:39
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Good luck. I find the best results occur when I simply lay out the facts, acknowledge that they have insurance for issues like this, and state that I expect a check to be written. All done very politely but very firmly. Generally the response is super apologetic but they usually try to beat around the bush, offering me free repairs and rentals, which I deny and insist that I expect a check. This seems to be working so far. I went back today and told them I'm not gonna go around town trying to find them the best deal. He was adamant about me not going with the shop that quoted $1800 because he doesn't know them and doesn't trust them. I told him it's my car, I get to chose who repairs it. He kept saying he would only pay to have it repaired by his guy, and only the most egregious part I showed in the picture (all sides sustained some amount of damage). I just kept saying "well I guess I'll have to go down a different route then" and finally he said "let me think about it, I'll call you tomorrow". He also tried to explain to me that every single car that goes on the lift sustains some amount of damage, due to the lift. I mean some rubbed paint or something I can understand but the lift is not bending metal on every car that goes on it, right??
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Oct 27, 2015 23:50
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I'm going to ask 2 really dumb questions so i'll apologize ahead of time. I've never done any winter driving with a pickup truck, only my explorer and sedans. With that said: 1. Is the thing I hear about sandbags in the bed a good idea? Do I just throw a bunch in there? Or is there something special I should do? 2. How do you deal with snow in the bed if you don't have a cover? Should I throw a tarp in there just shovel it out? Sorry for dumbness.
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Oct 28, 2015 01:59
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fletcher posted:He also tried to explain to me that every single car that goes on the lift sustains some amount of damage, due to the lift. I mean some rubbed paint or something I can understand but the lift is not bending metal on every car that goes on it, right?? Guy is a weasel, but you already knew that.
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Oct 28, 2015 02:00
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Abu Dave posted:I'm going to ask 2 really dumb questions so i'll apologize ahead of time. 1. If you need them or not entirely depends on how much snow you get wherever you are and if you drive like a bat out of hell or not. If you do need them however, do not just throw them in. You want the weight directly over the axle, so lay them in between the wheel wells in the bed. 2. Just leave it in there? You said you wanted more weight in there. I suppose if you don't have a bed liner, then you might want to park it facing uphill so that when snow melts, it doesn't pool in the bed.
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Oct 28, 2015 02:03
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fletcher posted:This seems to be working so far. I went back today and told them I'm not gonna go around town trying to find them the best deal. He was adamant about me not going with the shop that quoted $1800 because he doesn't know them and doesn't trust them. I told him it's my car, I get to chose who repairs it. He kept saying he would only pay to have it repaired by his guy, and only the most egregious part I showed in the picture (all sides sustained some amount of damage). I just kept saying "well I guess I'll have to go down a different route then" and finally he said "let me think about it, I'll call you tomorrow". Yeah, he's full of poo poo. Maintain your polite but firm stance and don't let him weasel out of it. He probably weasels out of it with most other people so show him that you won't stand for it.
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Oct 28, 2015 02:14
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I wouldn't be surprised if every car that goes on HIS lift sustains damage, but that's due to incompetence. He's absolutely full of poo poo and hoping to bully you into caving.
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Oct 28, 2015 02:19
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If he's damaging every car he lifts, he hasn't got a loving clue how to safely lift cars. The areas along the sill between the wheels are pinch welds. Most vehicles have specific lift points along those welds that are reinforced, and you can also opt to use special tops to a jack or lift to grip both sides of the pinch weld so it isn't damaged. This is what it looks like for a normal shop jack:  I'm sure they make similar adapters for lifts for when you're not just lifting the car with its tires, although I usually see floor lifts with arms that reach further under the car to support it from other structural members. Regardless, if the shop can't safely lift a car without damaging it for whatever reason, they should decline to perform the service rather than just saying "gently caress it most customers don't notice" and crushing the pinch welds.
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Oct 28, 2015 02:29
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Hondas and acuras are the easiest cars to put on the lift - they have very obvious metal lift points sticking down from the pinchwelds. BMWs have nice rubber blocks, but it seems like they must fall off a lot. The newer lifts in our shop have nice rubber pads, and don't damage the paint at all. The older lifts we have are ones with the 2-step frame contact pads - they're just painted metal. They can gently caress up the pinch welds on unibody cars. Some shops still use these anyway on pinch welds.
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Oct 28, 2015 02:51
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1995 Ford E350 ClubWagon, 7.5L V8. On a cold start, squeals like a piggy until you put it in drive. Idler pulley? It will also stall and die when at low RPM and going from drive to reverse, more likely when on an incline, that one has me a bit more stumped. No CEL lit.
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Oct 28, 2015 13:45
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I have a set of studded winter tires from my dead BMW, and I want to put them on my Ford Ranger. I am in Kitchener/Waterloo, Ontario. This apparently matters regarding the legality of studded tires. The tires are 185/65R-15 General Altimax Arctic with carbide studs I got from Tire Rack, put on my e36 BMW 328is, drove about 5000 km on then put in storage when the GDCS killed my bimmer. I now have a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 that Tire Rack tells me came from the factory wearing 215/75-15, 225/75-15, or 235/75-15 tires. The tires are still on the cheap steelies that fit the BMW, so I know I'll need to get new-to-me wheels to even try to put them on the Ranger. I plan to get a set from a junkyard or local kijiji. If I ask a shop to put my 185/65R-15 tires on Ford Ranger wheels, will bad things happen? I know tire sizing is some kind of dark art with way too many people doing really weird things like stretching small tires onto big wheels, but I look at those numbers and all I see is that my tires will be narrower than Ford's OEM setup, which is fine for winter tires anyways as long as the bead seats properly. And I'll need to remove the studs because southern Ontario doesn't like them, but that looks like a job of a couple of hours with needlenose pliers and some lube.
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Oct 28, 2015 14:05
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ExecuDork posted:I have a set of studded winter tires from my dead BMW, and I want to put them on my Ford Ranger. I am in Kitchener/Waterloo, Ontario. This apparently matters regarding the legality of studded tires. Your BMW tires are significantly smaller in diameter than the stock Ranger tires. 82mm smaller in fact. They'll be an -11.7% difference. When driving at 100kph on your speedometer, you'll actually be doing 88kph. Also your ranger will be lowered by 41mm. 185 width tires are also going to make the Ranger handle really funny. In the snow they'd actually be great, like rally car - cutting through like a pizza cutter. Also they're probably going to look stretched like a Volkswagen kid on the ranger wheels. I wouldn't do it - 11% is way too big of a difference. around 6% is the max I'd deal with. EDIT: Well, well, well - A Google image search for 185 on a 7 inch rim returns mostly pictures of volkswagens 0toShifty fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Oct 28, 2015 |
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Oct 28, 2015 14:45
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Plus, you'd have to double check the bmw's tires can safely handle the rangers weight. You'd have to check the minimum load rating for your ranger and compare to the rating on your studded winters. Your best bet is to get the ranger it's own tires, and either sell the ones from your bmw or find another vehicle that'll be better suited for their size.
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Oct 28, 2015 14:57
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Thanks, that's not the news I was hoping for but it saves me some trouble. I had tried to sell the tires a year ago in Saskatchewan but  and laziness on my part meant I put them in the trailer and hauled them to southern Ontario where their studs will be a bit of a liability. I have a list of crap needs doing on the Ranger anyways (oil leak, out-of-province inspection, registration in Ontario, jammed HVAC blend door  ), I'll add "buy winter tires" to the list. On the upside, Rangers (and other Fords with wheels that should fit, like Explorers) are pretty abundant around here so a set on kijiji shouldn't be too hard to find.Anybody want my tires? I will deliver within a pretty good radius (500km? maybe?) because the adventure would be worth it to me, though timing will be "sometime in November or December or January or when I feel I can take a long weekend". I'm serious, I would happily toss those tires into the back of my Ranger and drive to Northern Ontario or Quebec or New York (state) or someplace. Comedy option (because I cannot afford this): Buy another BMW! I really want a 3-series convertible anyways, something like a 318 or 320, but I've got too much other poo poo to worry about right now to even contemplate a budget. And yes, I would *absolutely* drive a convertible RWD all winter long, and it would have good winter tires regardless. I'm kind of an evangelist when it comes to winter tires. EDIT: One of the studded tires in question, on my dead BMW. Better days...  SD 133 Checking the Ice Ferries 24 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrEDIT2: I'll put together a SA-Mart thread and a link in the AI Buy/Sell thread when I sort out some details. ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Oct 28, 2015 |
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Oct 28, 2015 15:12
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Hahah, really? My Ranger came with 185-70R14s iirc. You'd be fine, but you'd lose lots of ground clearance.
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Oct 28, 2015 19:14
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Parts Kit posted:I want to add some kind of anchors to my truck bed to help with securing loads. What are some good products for this, and what should I expect to have to do for installation? I don't have stake pockets or anything else that I could pop some product into, just a plain bed on an 87 b2000. Drilling is a-ok with me. Late but nylon cleats from a boat supply work very well.
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Oct 29, 2015 02:36
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CountingWizard posted:I've taken in my car a couple times to different mechanics but no one can tell me what is doing this. Have you checked the CV axle, It can cause some of those symptoms if it goes bad. It's the part that goes from the transmission to the wheel. I have that exact car (same year/engine/trim) so I've messed with most of it's parts by now. If I had to guess a boot failed which causes the rubber noise and now the bearings are failing as a result causing vibration through the transaxle up the accelerator lines. At least that's the conclusion I'd come to having not seen it.
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Oct 29, 2015 04:02
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Gonna try one more time: I'm trying to find a body panel the right color for my car because having one painted to match is $rape. Is there any non-awful way to go about this? Half the places just don't respond to emails, or don't seem interested in actually looking at the part to see what color it is. Failing that, how terrible an idea is attempting to paint it myself?
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Oct 29, 2015 05:15
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Javid posted:Gonna try one more time: Matching paint is hard if they have to try to blend to match fading. Perhaps it would be cheaper to have the entire car resprayed?
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Oct 29, 2015 06:12
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I have no idea if that's been a factor in the quotes I've gotten but I'll ask again armed with that info. I'd be happy with a fresh coat of that color code; it'd still be closer than a random non-matching junkyard fender. Thanks!
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Oct 29, 2015 06:15
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Javid posted:I have no idea if that's been a factor in the quotes I've gotten but I'll ask again armed with that info. I'd be happy with a fresh coat of that color code; it'd still be closer than a random non-matching junkyard fender. Thanks! It also depends on the kind of paint they have to use. You never posted what car you are looking for a matching panel for, but I"m going to assume it's not just some winter beater; some manufacturers use more expensive paint. There are probably some goons here that know everything about auto paint, but I'm not one of them, I just know enough to pay someone else to do that poo poo and not get hosed. On another topic, to send an oil sample to Blackstone labs, I just slap $3.14 postage on the labelled container they give you and drop it in the mail slot, right (after putting a bit of tape on the lid to keep it tight)? Old lady at the post office gave me some bs runaround when I asked her how to deal with it.
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Oct 29, 2015 06:22
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It's an 89 cougar; color code of 6V. I got a little jug of paint to do touch ups locally and they mixed it from poo poo on hand so it's nothing too bizarre, but it's not something easy like black or white either. It's not a winter beater but I'm not TOO obsessed with it being perfect either. I just don't want the mashed up panel it's got now or a straight panel that's a different color.
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Oct 29, 2015 06:58
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Try finding a thunderbird enthusiast forum with people parting out cars - if you keep an eye out long enough you might be able to score the same color.
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Oct 29, 2015 12:06
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EightBit posted:On another topic, to send an oil sample to Blackstone labs, I just slap $3.14 postage on the labelled container they give you and drop it in the mail slot, right (after putting a bit of tape on the lid to keep it tight)? Old lady at the post office gave me some bs runaround when I asked her how to deal with it.
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Oct 29, 2015 12:33
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ExecuDork posted:Yup. Check out Blackstone's website, they get asked this often enough that they basically walk you through it. Post office employees don't have a clue, but an oil sample in that container is completely harmless and there are no laws that restrict transport of something like that. I had one lady at one post office refuse to take it, so I just went to another post office. That's easier than arguing with government workers.
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Oct 29, 2015 15:36
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How the hell do you get RainX off a windshield? So far I've tried soap, isopropyl, Brakleen, the official RainX cleaner that's kinda gritty, and just the passage of time (it's been like 4 months). I still have water beading up and making an annoying fog/streaks when I use the wipers in light rain. It didn't go away with new wipers either. All I can think is that my 20 year old windshield is pitted enough that it's stuck in there.
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Oct 29, 2015 22:31
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