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That bike looks rad as gently caress.
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Oct 24, 2015 01:40
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Agreed. Keep us posted on your progress. I'd love to see how it turns out, and how you sort out any issues with conversion.
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Oct 24, 2015 02:17
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EX250 Type R posted:CBR250 wheels are ~100 bucks shipped on ebay while the cheapest supermoto wheels I can find are still 600-700 shipped. Those are OEM honda crf250M wheels from Thailand, other brands obviously get much more expensive. There are some minor issues id need to figure out regarding a front brake rotor and bracket but that is a lot easier to do with poo poo in front of me rather than googling other people's anecdotes. Looks loving sick. Do it. Also, remember that cbr250rs have silver or black wheels, one might look better than the other with the silver engine (that's if you have the normal white/black/red scheme). Barnsy fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Oct 26, 2015 |
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Oct 26, 2015 12:20
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Anyone have any idea what this front fender/headlight is?  Found the picture in google images but the link is dead. edit: Apparently it was an older plastics set from Suzuki. Doesn't seem like they're available anymore though. Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Nov 1, 2015 |
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Nov 1, 2015 02:18
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Partial Octopus posted:Anyone have any idea what this front fender/headlight is? Ugly.
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Nov 1, 2015 02:31
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Partial Octopus posted:Anyone have any idea what this front fender/headlight is? http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/parts-accessories/super-moto-appearance-kit-drz400sm-2006-09.html
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Nov 1, 2015 03:49
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cursedshitbox posted:http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/parts-accessories/super-moto-appearance-kit-drz400sm-2006-09.html $409.99 
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Nov 1, 2015 03:59
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Partial Octopus posted:$409.99 Can you really put a price on style though?
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Nov 1, 2015 14:36
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builds character posted:Can you really put a price on style though? Nope. Id totally do one though if I didn't already have the eye of sauron on the fucker. theres also a dakar faring out there for ~450
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Nov 1, 2015 16:35
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Partial Octopus posted:$409.99 Yeah, don't look up the price of that exhaust then
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Nov 1, 2015 17:30
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So I put a new exhaust on my drz and did an airbox mod. The bike is running lean so I bought a jet kit to fix things. I bought this kit: https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/JD-Jetting-Jet-Kit-DR-Z400S-SM-p2006766373.html I also posted on the thumpertalk forums and asked how to jet it. I was told to use these settings. 160mj - Blue #4 - 25pj - 2 3/4 turns out. I have never had a carbed bike before so this is all new to me. What does Blue #4 mean and what am I supposed to turn out 2 3/4th turns? Also is this something I can do just by watching a youtube video or should I take my bike to a professional?
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Nov 4, 2015 03:46
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blue needle, clip 4, air/fuel screw 2.75 turns out. Its not so bad, but just be drat careful you don't fuckup the diaphragm. (dont force it, don't pinch it, don't jerk on it like its your own) JIS screws on the floatbowl. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 03:54
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Partial Octopus posted:So I put a new exhaust on my drz and did an airbox mod. The bike is running lean so I bought a jet kit to fix things. I bought this kit: https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/JD-Jetting-Jet-Kit-DR-Z400S-SM-p2006766373.html Airbox mod and rejetting is the best thing I ever did for my DRZ, and surprisingly easy. I found the hardest part to be getting the carb out of the frame. Its in there tight!
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Nov 4, 2015 04:36
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#4 meaning position of the little C-clip on the needle. You'll understand when you see it.
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Nov 4, 2015 04:49
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Partial Octopus posted:So I put a new exhaust on my drz and did an airbox mod. The bike is running lean so I bought a jet kit to fix things. I bought this kit: https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/JD-Jetting-Jet-Kit-DR-Z400S-SM-p2006766373.html The thing you're turning out 2.75x is the pilot screw. It's the screw that you can access through the little hole in the bottom of the float bowl. Without taking the carb apart. Exhaust + airbox + carb + used E-model* cams is a nice, easy, and relatively cheap way to mod the DRZ. Mine is pretty willing to hit 102-103 (indicated) on flat ground, and will hit the governor at 107 if I go down a hill. *The E-model cams are pretty close to the ~Stage 1 Hotcams~ that you can get, but they're literally half the price used on Ebay. Unless you're planning on building almost an entire new motor (heavy duty valves, new bored out top end, bottom end/stroker kit) don't bother with anything more aggressive than that. Also enjoy your $1500-2000 DRZ motor that will barely outrun a stock WR450. e: I think I still have a -1t front sprocket kicking around somewhere. Should I put it in next time I have the bike apart and see how wheelie happy it gets now that I have cams? Marxalot fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 06:47
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Marxalot posted:
Good train of thought. -1 front.....14, or 13? I run 14/47 on dirt, 14/44 on sm. I've 1-3 drz, 4-5 act WR kit though. wheelies are just a flip of the wrist away. good budget upgrade when you get cams in is the CV40 klrshitfiddy carb. It worked fine even on my bike until I was able to rebuild the FCR39
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Nov 4, 2015 07:10
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February can't come soon enough. I live in loving supermoto heaven. Old rail yard area, roads too destroyed for your normal car (my Volvo bottomed out horribly crossing the tracks and my car is about 3/4 inch lower than stock). My other bike is still in the suburbs. I need to just ride it home and deal with it in my little garage...
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Nov 4, 2015 16:16
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Thanks for the advice regarding the carb. How should I drill out the cap for the air fuel screw? Also, is the settings I was recommended good to start with? I live in pittsburgh. The altitude is 1365 ft. I'm running the yoshi rs2 exhaust with the 3x3 mod. Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 19:02
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Partial Octopus posted:Thanks for the advice regarding the carb. Use a drill bit The settings are probably good, the people at Thumpertalk know their stuff.
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Nov 4, 2015 19:22
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I don't understand why people love the JD kit for the BSR36 but I had such terrible luck with their FCR39MX kit on my DRZ. Their jetting suggestions were horribly, stupidly rich and all of the powersports places I talked to that do dirtbikes just started laughing when I told them I was using JD needles.
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Nov 4, 2015 19:58
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Yerok posted:I don't understand why people love the JD kit for the BSR36 but I had such terrible luck with their FCR39MX kit on my DRZ. You kinda answered your own question on this one. Yerok posted:Their jetting suggestions were horribly, stupidly rich and all of the powersports places I talked to that do dirtbikes just started laughing when I told them I was using JD needles. Whose suggestions? Did they say why JD needles are so bad? Its just a carb tune, I dont get it.
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Nov 4, 2015 20:29
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The jetting suggestions from JD are horrible. For example, they recommended a 47 pilot with a 100 pilot air jet. The general recommendation as per thumpertalk forums is a 45 without a pilot air jet or a 38 with one. A 47 with a pilot air jet is so rich that there's no throttle response off idle at all. Their FCR MX (can't speak to the slant body) kit includes two needles with different root diameters. The intention is that one needle is for general use and the other is for ice racing and winter riding. Both of them made my DRZ run horribly. They also recommend main jets around 165-175 depending on which needle you're using. All in all I spent about 2 months of messing around with their needles and talking to them to try to figure out what the gently caress was going on. Eventually I ended up going back to genuine Keihin needles and a slightly richer pilot and main and everything's fine. Supposedly the JD needles have a triple taper and according to all the supermoto/powersports guys I talked to at Road America this summer they're snake oil bullshit.  tl;dr: JD FCR needles are special snowflake needles made by some guy that thinks he's smarter than the engineers at Keihin. Yerok fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 5, 2015 01:46
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JB50 posted:Use a drill bit To build on this, put a few rounds of tape on the bit at desired depth so that you dont mar the A/F screw with the drill bit. E: gently caress JD kits
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Nov 5, 2015 01:50
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The Moose jet kit for the BSR comes with a nifty little aluminum spacer with a set screw to set the bit depth for just that reason.
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Nov 5, 2015 01:53
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That's why it's a kit. What works for someone else doesn't mean it'll work for you. The guys on TT or whatever know what numbers to suggest because they swapped jets around until they found settings that work.
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Nov 5, 2015 01:53
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Yeah. I was just surprised that the FCR kit is widely regarded as lovely by professionals when the kit for the Mikuni carb is generally recommended. Apples and oranges I guess.
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Nov 5, 2015 01:59
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What is the best way to remove the c-clip on the needle? Figured it out. Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 5, 2015 17:48
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XYLOPAGUS posted:February can't come soon enough. I live in loving supermoto heaven. Old rail yard area, roads too destroyed for your normal car (my Volvo bottomed out horribly crossing the tracks and my car is about 3/4 inch lower than stock). My other bike is still in the suburbs. I need to just ride it home and deal with it in my little garage... Oh god, are you in 5th ward or something?
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Nov 5, 2015 18:25
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Marxalot posted:Oh god, are you in 5th ward or something? Nope. South side of I-10 at Heights Blvd. Road infrastructure in terrible shape, but that's typical for Houston proper. It will allow for proper hooning, though!
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Nov 5, 2015 18:58
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Ok so I managed to successfully rejet my carb. What should I be looking for to make sure that it's jetted properly or improperly?
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Nov 5, 2015 19:54
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Ride it! Let it warm up, do some pulls, see if you feel hesitation anywhere in the Rev range.
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Nov 5, 2015 21:54
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If you're like I once was, lurking this thread and wishing you too could hoon, buy my DRZ: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3119867&pagenumber=59#post452363066
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Nov 5, 2015 21:59
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Go try to do some 2nd gear wheelies.
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Nov 5, 2015 22:48
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For those of you with trailtech vapors. Did you wrap the rpm wire around the outside of the spark plug cable or did you attach it directly to the coil?
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Nov 6, 2015 00:29
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Partial Octopus posted:For those of you with trailtech vapors. Did you wrap the rpm wire around the outside of the spark plug cable or did you attach it directly to the coil? I did it around the cable. Seems to work well enough.
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Nov 6, 2015 00:43
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I did the same. it seems a little jumpy but not too bad. Not sure if I'd get much of an improvement if added more wraps or not. I'm at 5 right now. Did you drill the magnet sensor to the brake caliper? I was thinking of just drilling it to the fork fairings instead.
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Nov 6, 2015 01:30
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I want to say I did 4 or 5 too. For the sensor I just ziptied it to the fork. Hasn't fallen off yet.
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Nov 6, 2015 01:35
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My supermoto wheels have arrived along with a cbr250 front caliper bracket and front brake rotor. I am still waiting on the bolts to mount the rotor and i have to remove the bracket from the cbr caliper (or swap the calipers with the bracket still attached) and I still need to get crf450 master cylinder. The cbr250 front brake disc is slightly larger than the crf's (296mm vs 256mm) and the crf450 master cylinder was recommended for the crf250l as a good upgrade, I think it would still carry over to the slightly larger rotor. The rear 17" tire will be a 3.5% reduction in size but the CBR250 rear sprocket is stock 38t vs. the crf's 40t and seems to unique to the cbr250/300. I run -1/+2 (13/42) on the crf and it is borderline okay so I don't want anything taller. Tyga makes aluminum rear sprockets for the cbr up to 46t so I should be good to go but I don't know if I want 42t or 44t. I seem to recall a saying (wrt to mustangs at least) to the effect of if you want 4.10 gears then get 4.30s but im not sure if 13/44 would be too short. I think the top speed would be around 65 with that set up on the 18" rear, which would be fine for all my riding except going TO work.
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Nov 6, 2015 15:12
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So I finally got a chance to ride the drz a bit tonight. The re-jetting, 3x3 mod and pipe made a huge difference. The bike feels way more responsive. I'm still getting a very very small amount of backfiring when I'm engine breaking hard. Does that mean I'm still running lean or is that pretty normal?
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Nov 7, 2015 04:56
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Normal. What pipe did you end up going with? Everyone likes the mrd but god dang is that thing loud.
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Nov 7, 2015 05:25
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