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always be closing posted:Collinite 845 on some fresh paint. 
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Oct 25, 2015 16:18
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Have a truck with very fine wiper scratches on the windshield. I can't feel them with a fingernail but they are producing a very distracting glare when night driving. Is there any sealant or wax I can try to fill this in and polish by hand? I don't have a power polisher.
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Oct 25, 2015 20:31
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Jeweller's rouge may work?
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Oct 26, 2015 00:03
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I can't deal with this hard water. I don't want to wax every time I wash. Do I use a quick detailer? Garden hose filter? Elaborate distilled water setup?Styles Bitchley posted:Have a truck with very fine wiper scratches on the windshield. I can't feel them with a fingernail but they are producing a very distracting glare when night driving. Is there any sealant or wax I can try to fill this in and polish by hand? I don't have a power polisher. Definitely a scratch and not just residue? I've heard using cleaners like Bon Ami will strip the windshield down to the pure glass without scratching. Haven't tried it myself.
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Nov 1, 2015 19:30
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FogHelmut posted:I can't deal with this hard water. I don't want to wax every time I wash. Do I use a quick detailer? Garden hose filter? Elaborate distilled water setup? You can get one of those hose-end purifiers... http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Fresh-Garden-Filter-purpose/dp/B00AXP8B9O
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Nov 1, 2015 21:14
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EVERYWHERE 
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Do ground water setups not use a softener to the outside Hydrants?
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Nov 1, 2015 23:18
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I'm a beginner at this but I can't seem to bring myself to trust anyone with my baby so... I want to try my hand at a full exterior detail on my own. A little background, I'm in California and do not live in a single family home so that combination rids my ability to do a full spray foam down wash so I'm thinking of going into the ONR direction. I want to come up with a sane plan of attack so that the actual day of detailing goes smoothly and hopefully quickly. So the list goes: 1. Head down to the self-serve car wash, Iron X the wheels and pressure wash them out. I've always had a problem with the wheels being extra dirty no matter how diligent I am with washing. 2. Come home and first thing is spray the car with ONR from a spray bottle 3. Put 10~15 small MF towels into a bucket of ONR solution and using only clean sides to essentially wet wipe the car. Similar to the Gary Dean method. 4. At this point the car should be still wet so I am thinking of using ONR as a clay luber and clay the car 5. Using a spray wax/sealant (Currently may be Chemical Guys Hybrid V7) as a drying aid and dry the car 6. Going through the Chemical Guys V line 4 step polishing set and compound/polish the whole car 7. After all that is said and done seal the car with Chemical Guys Jet-Seal Still seems like a pretty heavy day ahead of me but seems doable. The step I'm mostly unsure of is using a drying aid before polishing and may be product choices. Very much a beginning and have not bought much beyond the spray bottle and ONR (Been doing only wash & wax to keep it simple) so everything can and probably will change. Appreciate any input you may have!
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Nov 2, 2015 09:20
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FogHelmut posted:I can't deal with this hard water. I don't want to wax every time I wash. Do I use a quick detailer? Garden hose filter? Elaborate distilled water setup? Maybe try drying the car, then dumping a gallon or two of filtered water all over it and drying a second time?
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Nov 2, 2015 12:17
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I dont know why I bother washing my car past August/September. Morning dew like a motherfucker.
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Nov 2, 2015 16:21
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Randuin posted:
I usually just use the hose for clay lube, but a spray bottle of water would probably work if used liberally. Lot cheaper as long as it doesn't get you hanged in California.
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Nov 2, 2015 17:39
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Larrymer posted:I usually just use the hose for clay lube, but a spray bottle of water would probably work if used liberally. Lot cheaper as long as it doesn't get you hanged in California. In a town home so I don't have access to a hose from my underground (although private) garage. I can spray but everyone says that's not actually lubricated enough?
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Nov 2, 2015 17:56
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Randuin posted:In a town home so I don't have access to a hose from my underground (although private) garage. I can spray but everyone says that's not actually lubricated enough? A few drops of soap and some warm water in a cup/spray bottle is the best way to wet the paint before claying.
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Nov 2, 2015 17:58
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ratbert90 posted:A few drops of soap and some warm water in a cup/spray bottle is the best way to wet the paint before claying. *A few drops of Johnson's Baby Shampoo
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Nov 2, 2015 18:31
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meatpimp posted:*A few drops of Johnson's Baby Shampoo If you are claying a car, dawn will work just fine as well. Not like you are trying to save the wax. 
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Nov 2, 2015 18:35
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ratbert90 posted:If you are claying a car, dawn will work just fine as well. Not like you are trying to save the wax. I've just found that Baby Shampoo makes clay glide easier than soap... that could be pure projection, too, though. 
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Nov 2, 2015 18:43
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I have three scrapes on the roof of my subie from where the lot tard scraped the paper tape from windshield replacement off with a razor blade  well they've started rusting pretty badly. I had a plan to mask off the areas and hit them with a wire wheel and rust converting primer, then spray with the matching paint and then clear it. All rattlecan of course. Think it's gonna turn out like poo poo? I mean anything is better than it looking like a rustbucket, right?
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Nov 2, 2015 18:43
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meatpimp posted:I've just found that Baby Shampoo makes clay glide easier than soap... that could be pure projection, too, though. Fair enough. I wasn't attacking you; just being a sarcastic jerk is all.
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Nov 2, 2015 18:44
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BloodBag posted:I have three scrapes on the roof of my subie from where the lot tard scraped the paper tape from windshield replacement off with a razor blade Totally depends on how well you prep.
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Nov 2, 2015 18:45
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BloodBag posted:I have three scrapes on the roof of my subie from where the lot tard scraped the paper tape from windshield replacement off with a razor blade How bad is the rust and what color? You can probably mask them off and get away with sandpaper. Start with like 400 maybe and step down if you have to. I think this will help you keep the area smaller than using a wire wheel. Be sure to sand your primer smooth, then wetsand your base coat before you clear and you should have no trouble getting a good looking result. Gonna take work obviously.
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Nov 2, 2015 19:34
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PBCrunch posted:Do you dry your car after washes? The water at my house is quite hard, but as long as I dry the car after washing, I don't get any water spots. That sounds like a lot of towels. Maybe I could get one of those waterblades first, I don't know. BloodBag posted:I have three scrapes on the roof of my subie from where the lot tard scraped the paper tape from windshield replacement off with a razor blade My cousin did his bumper like that, and while it's not metal, it came out pretty unnoticeable from 5 feet away. You really have to do a lot of wetsanding though.
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Nov 2, 2015 19:43
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FogHelmut posted:That sounds like a lot of towels. Maybe I could get one of those waterblades first, I don't know. I live in a really hard water area, its maybe two good mf hybrid drying towels to get my car done. Use a blower to get the cracks and weird spots, then quick detialer and a regular microfiber to do door sills/trunk sills/all the out of way spots. takes maybe 20 minutes to dry the car and i dont get spots anymore. If you are that against drying just go waterless wash after you get a really good sealant on it.
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Nov 2, 2015 22:52
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always be closing posted:How bad is the rust and what color? You can probably mask them off and get away with sandpaper. Start with like 400 maybe and step down if you have to. I think this will help you keep the area smaller than using a wire wheel. The rust was just a bit of surface contamination but now it's gone full tilt. I need to get this poo poo under control like yesterday. The color of the car is topaz gold metallic. I'm likely going to have two off-color squares just because golds are so hard to match.
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Nov 3, 2015 13:36
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BloodBag posted:The rust was just a bit of surface contamination but now it's gone full tilt. I need to get this poo poo under control like yesterday. The color of the car is topaz gold metallic. I'm likely going to have two off-color squares just because golds are so hard to match. Bring a paint chip to a good paint shop and they will mix you up a batch of matching color. Or at least quite a bit closer to what you have now.
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Nov 3, 2015 14:20
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The van my band bought had been used as a detox van in Iowa, so I'm gonna try and tackle the interior this evening. Does anyone here have anything to say one way or another on Simple Green concentrate? I have a gallon or so of the stuff that I used to clean bicycle chains, just curious as to whether anyone here has tried it on car interiors.
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Nov 3, 2015 21:53
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scuz posted:The van my band bought had been used as a detox van in Iowa, so I'm gonna try and tackle the interior this evening. Does anyone here have anything to say one way or another on Simple Green concentrate? I have a gallon or so of the stuff that I used to clean bicycle chains, just curious as to whether anyone here has tried it on car interiors. I use Simple Green for just about everything. It's a great cleaner, dilutes very well (I used it 6:1 for most things) yet very mild for most things (bare aluminum among the exclusions)... what are you needing to clean?
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Nov 3, 2015 21:54
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scuz posted:The van my band bought had been used as a detox van in Iowa, so I'm gonna try and tackle the interior this evening. Does anyone here have anything to say one way or another on Simple Green concentrate? I have a gallon or so of the stuff that I used to clean bicycle chains, just curious as to whether anyone here has tried it on car interiors. Steam cleaner + Spotbot with Folex is what I use for 99% of my interior cleaning.
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Nov 3, 2015 21:55
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meatpimp posted:I use Simple Green for just about everything. It's a great cleaner, dilutes very well (I used it 6:1 for most things) yet very mild for most things (bare aluminum among the exclusions)... what are you needing to clean? ratbert90 posted:Steam cleaner + Spotbot with Folex is what I use for 99% of my interior cleaning.
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Nov 3, 2015 22:08
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Waxed up the black car over the weekend with CG black since it uses advanced polymer bonding nano-technology that simply leaves the paint being described with one word, amazing.  at the marketing lingo on these products.
Agent 86 fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Nov 3, 2015 |
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Nov 3, 2015 22:42
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always be closing posted:How bad is the rust and what color? You can probably mask them off and get away with sandpaper. Start with like 400 maybe and step down if you have to. I think this will help you keep the area smaller than using a wire wheel. Pretty much this, also use the 2 part clear coat with the activator on the bottom of the can, otherwise it'll go yellow after a while.
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Nov 3, 2015 23:27
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I want to do a swirl removal as per the OP with the Meg's ultimate. Once I've applied the polish, I take it I need a wax to finish? What should I get for a daily driver where durability is more important than show car finish?
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Nov 5, 2015 01:01
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Jaguars! posted:I want to do a swirl removal as per the OP with the Meg's ultimate. Once I've applied the polish, I take it I need a wax to finish? What should I get for a daily driver where durability is more important than show car finish? Any brand name sealant. Tech wax 2.0 is good if you want something available everywhere. Keep it dry 24 hours after application to cure, otherwise it's the same as wax.
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Nov 5, 2015 02:29
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If you want a durable, traditional wax (rather than a sealant) then get collinite 845. Otherwise, what the previous poster said.
GEMorris fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 5, 2015 03:09
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The pic at the top of the page of my hood is collinite 845 liquid wax, which I've read is a great winter wax. Goes on thin and allegedly lasts all winter, though this is the first time I have used it(and will store the truck winter;)).
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Nov 5, 2015 09:39
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Jaguars! posted:I want to do a swirl removal as per the OP with the Meg's ultimate. Once I've applied the polish, I take it I need a wax to finish? What should I get for a daily driver where durability is more important than show car finish? revmoo posted:Any brand name sealant. Tech wax 2.0 is good if you want something available everywhere. Keep it dry 24 hours after application to cure, otherwise it's the same as wax. So my question is that does UC contain a tiny bit of filler wax? I generally thought that sealants would go ape poo poo and refuse to bond with clears if even a hint of wax was on it. As for my sealant recommendation Klasse makes a fantastic sealant. edit: 2 big rear end boxes came for me at work today all from autogeek, today is a good day Lord of Garbagemen fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 5, 2015 19:44
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meatpimp posted:I use Simple Green for just about everything. It's a great cleaner, dilutes very well (I used it 6:1 for most things) yet very mild for most things (bare aluminum among the exclusions)... what are you needing to clean?  It. Is. Amazing. Also very inexpensive (like $1.99 on sale). This and a microfiber cloth and the van is much more comfortable. Cut through all that caked-on junk that was probably vomit or piss (van was a municipal detox van in Iowa). The carpet is beyond all help so it'd be fun to re-carpet the thing, but that might be a waste of money.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:55
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Great tip! We used zep penetrating oil in the garage when I was a kid, never knew they made a cleaner.
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Nov 5, 2015 20:46
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They make so many different kinds of chemicals that they have their own aisle in some of the hardware stores around here. Hope they have an adhesive remover thing; the carpet glue on the cabin engine shroud (or whatever the gently caress you call that) sure doesn't wanna leave.
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Nov 5, 2015 20:58
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 The proper term is "doghouse".
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Nov 5, 2015 21:19
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 cool!
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Nov 5, 2015 21:32
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scuz posted:Used Simple Green til that ran out (had a lot less than I thought), and had to use this stuff: I have a bottle of the concentrated purple Zep poo poo, and one of their nice chemical bottles to mix it up in. I think I do a 20:1 mix for most stuff, and it works fantastically. Way better than simple green.
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Nov 8, 2015 02:36
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