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*pop* Anyone have experience repairing these types of plugs?
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Nov 4, 2015 23:27
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| # ? May 27, 2024 21:50 |
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I guess I should've looked at the ears on the slip section when I had the driveshaft out. This made a pretty cool noise when it happened and put another hole in the muffler. Not sure wtf happened other than a bunch of broken u-joints and lovely repairs over the last few years  The new one is waiting for me at my buddy's shop but I'm pretty sure the guy that built it didn't account for the flange that mounts it to the diff, so it'll probably be too long. 
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Nov 5, 2015 17:02
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Highly appropriate music. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpSUtfP3PXo
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Nov 5, 2015 18:08
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Great Beer posted:Highly appropriate music. Too big of a lift kit?
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Nov 5, 2015 18:49
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Just looks like over correction to me - on the highway is a hell of a way to crash your off road jeep 
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Nov 5, 2015 19:03
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Idiot driver and/or badly adjusted/designed brakes or steering. Note that he gets it a bit sideways when the brake lights go on, and then it goes downhill from there. What that tells me is either the rear brakes locked up before the fronts (proportioning valve wrong or brakes misadjusted) or it has severe bumpsteer issues due to incorrect steering angles. From there it got worse because he overcorrected a lot of times. Either that, or he started by swerving and overcorrecting.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:05
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CommieGIR posted:Too big of a lift kit? Just looks like a stupid driver. Overcooks the entrance ramp, stomps the brakes (probably no ABS, just like my TJ), spins a little bit, driver-induced wobble sends it into the guardrail, which appears to bend the tie rod or otherwise damage the steering so that it veers off to the left uncontrollably. There are several points at which the driver could have prevented a collision there: not going too fast up the ramp, not stomping the brakes so hard, sticking with the braking, pumping the brakes once the slide starts, not trying to counter steer the spin, etc. Edit: you can't adjust the proportioning valve on TJs. I've only had to brake hard enough just a handful of times, but each time the rears lock up first. There's just not enough weight in the rear end, the short wheelbase doesn't help. EightBit fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 5, 2015 19:06
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I was thinking more like a rear disc swap with the wrong/no proportioning valve or the plunger removed from the proportioning valve or something. People do all manner of horrible hillrod poo poo to their brake systems when doing a disc swap and then proudly note that it can lock up the rears on pavement now!  Either they did something hinky to their jeep and are a lovely driver, or they are just a lovely driver, basically.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:17
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Yeah - pretty sure it is just someone who overcorrected because they've probably never been in that situation before.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:18
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From what I can tell, he was getting up to speed on the ramp, lifted off the gas and hit the brakes, and lost traction. Overcorrection took over from there. The weather looks overcast so its possible the road was damp. If it was using mud tires like every other lifted jeep Im sure that didnt help.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:21
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I thought about doing a disc swap for all of the time necessary to research doing it correctly.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:25
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I can't remember if I posted this yet, found at my local Jeep salvage:
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Nov 5, 2015 21:09
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There is a guy locally selling a what I want to say is a mid 90's cherokee sport 5 speed. Has working AC, body looks great, and there looks to be about zero rust (Texas). He's dropped it to about $3200 bucks. Just a heads up if anyone wants me to take a look. If it's still hanging around come december I might get a little more serious about it.
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Nov 5, 2015 21:48
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If I were in the market for an XJ I'd at least have a look at that. I wouldn't expect it to stay on the market unless it has serious issues.
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Nov 5, 2015 22:21
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Drunk Beekeeper posted:I can't remember if I posted this yet, found at my local Jeep salvage: That's cool as hell.
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Nov 5, 2015 23:46
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I finally got around to trying to fix my evap system tonight. I tried using MAPP/Pro to suss out any leaks, but I couldn't hear a change in the engine noise (even when I tried releasing it directly into the intake). I threw some Sugru on the only obvious cracked vacuum line because  , pulled the negative battery cable to clear the codes, and took it on a test drive. Torque tells me that the Evap system test is Incomplete (along with the O2 sensor heater). The shop manual suggests I need a cold start for the Evap leak test to occur, is that correct? e. I also picked up a replacement gas cap as sort of a talisman to ward off the MIL.
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Nov 8, 2015 06:26
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Safety Dance posted:Torque tells me that the Evap system test is Incomplete (along with the O2 sensor heater). The shop manual suggests I need a cold start for the Evap leak test to occur, is that correct? You need more than that. The fuel level has to be in the correct range as well, which is typically something like 1/4 to 3/4 tank or so. I'm not sure what it is specifically for your Jeep.
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Nov 8, 2015 18:57
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Motronic posted:You need more than that. The fuel level has to be in the correct range as well, which is typically something like 1/4 to 3/4 tank or so. I'm not sure what it is specifically for your Jeep. Hm. I just went from tank empty to tank full. That's the only monitor that isn't set (O2 sensor heater started passing this afternoon), so I think Illinois will find that acceptable. I'll get it tested tomorrow, and if they make me come back, I'll use some gas and try again.
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Nov 8, 2015 23:34
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Safety Dance posted:Hm. I just went from tank empty to tank full. That's the only monitor that isn't set (O2 sensor heater started passing this afternoon), so I think Illinois will find that acceptable. I'll get it tested tomorrow, and if they make me come back, I'll use some gas and try again. I live by ohare and work for a well equipped shop outside of ohare and if you want this Saturday we could hook it up to a very well equipped scanner and see what's what?
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Nov 8, 2015 23:50
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SouthsideSaint posted:I live by ohare and work for a well equipped shop outside of ohare and if you want this Saturday we could hook it up to a very well equipped scanner and see what's what? I'll be in Atlanta on Saturday for a conference, but I'll hit you up if I keep having problems.
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Nov 8, 2015 23:58
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Indeed any help you need just ask. I'm local have a great set of tools at home and also a well equipped shop at my weekend disposal. Plus we work on many jeeps every week at my shop so my boss has usual been threw it on most older jeeps
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Nov 9, 2015 00:50
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 I'm officially 2 for 2 when it comes to making Jeeps pass emissions!
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Nov 9, 2015 18:34
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Just got back the results from my first oil analysis on a recently rebuilt 4.0. Got a decent amount of bearing metals in the sample. Combined with a hard to reproduce ticking, should I just jump the gun and inspect the bearings? I can get the pan off without pulling the engine, though it will require some work (need to lift it off the mounts with a hoist to get enough clearance to actually remove the pan). Or should I follow the lab's advice and see what's up on the next oil change? Here are the numbers: code:
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Nov 10, 2015 20:16
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I had Blackstone do the analysis on my '99 XJ's 4 liter after I bought it and here are the numbers I had (around 150k miles on the engine, no rebuilds to my knowledge): I dunno about all the absolute values for metals and what they mean, but in general I'd go with their advice and wait for the next change. I never did run followup analyses since ehh it's a 4 liter, eventually it will die but not before the rest of the car has rotted away around it. 
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Nov 10, 2015 20:44
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I finally got my tj offroad today after having it for a month or so. Nowhere amazing just down by a river beach locally. It went well though handled everything just fine. I just need to get some more free time to go a bit further afield.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bpdb564818 I took my 5 year old with me and she loved every second of it.
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Nov 12, 2015 07:12
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That looks awesome! Where is Triangle Beach?
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Nov 12, 2015 16:42
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How deep did you get in the water? The seals on that driveline don't keep water out when submersed, so you may have some water ingress in your differentials etc.
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Nov 12, 2015 16:46
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Safety Dance posted:That looks awesome! Where is Triangle Beach? https://goo.gl/maps/Mh54NNHpsh22 Richmond, BC. I often fly my FPV planes and drones around there. EightBit posted:How deep did you get in the water? The seals on that driveline don't keep water out when submersed, so you may have some water ingress in your differentials etc. The deepest was going through that puddle at the start of the video. The diffs would definitely have gone under I think. It was deeper than I expected Is this something I should be doing something about ?EDIT:  Kiddo stoked with her first time wheeling. mashed fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Nov 12, 2015 |
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Nov 12, 2015 18:15
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Those are some serious-business offroading boots
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Nov 12, 2015 18:42
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Those are some serious-business offroading boots At night time she breaks out the light up Cinderella shoes. Safety first.
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Nov 12, 2015 18:46
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mashed_penguin posted:The deepest was going through that puddle at the start of the video. The diffs would definitely have gone under I think. It was deeper than I expected Check your differential oil for water, which will make it look cloudy. I've gone through water deep enough to come up through the floor drains, with a 4" lift and 33" tires. Had water in the transmission and both differentials.
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Nov 12, 2015 20:14
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Agreed. Anytime you go through water or mud deep enough that diff/tcase/trans/engine oil contamination is possible, you should check the fluids and change if necessary. Water will wreak havoc on the gears and bearings like almost nothing else can - especially if it's allowed to sit and corrode spots on the bearings, it'll cause pitting, which causes impact every time the bearing rolls past that point, which pits the bearing further, until it fails completely. I've seen conical roller bearings with pitting 10-20 thou deep in every roller from being sunk and not having their fluid changed.
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Nov 12, 2015 21:21
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Doing fluid changes on the that stuff is on my list regardless. Just need more hours and or days in the week to get to it all 
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Nov 12, 2015 21:44
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Its probably a time to change the fuel filter when the gas that pours out of the input side is rusty and chunky. Total lack of maintenance on my part, pretty sure it was a factory filter with 220k miles on it. Now I'm worried that the fuel pump is going to be the next thing to go.
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Nov 13, 2015 05:45
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That's impressive. I put about 50k on an OEM fuel filter and it eventually just blocked the flow and the car basically ran out of gas on the interstate with 3/4 of a tank.
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Nov 13, 2015 06:23
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So this noise just started today. https://streamable.com/2jal Any idea what it could be? Only happens during moderate to hard braking.
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Nov 13, 2015 07:57
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Looks like a current Chrysler steering wheel, so a reasonably newish vehicle... Either dust or your brakes are worn. My guess is dust because if they were actually worn it usually squeaks longer than that.
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Nov 13, 2015 08:40
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Yup sorry, it's s 2013 JK Rubicon. So far it's also been suggested that it might be the brake booster.
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Nov 13, 2015 20:37
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I have an '04 Wrangler X model that has recently started making a popping sound when driving over any big enough bumps to moderately work the suspension. Basically when I start to drive over a bump there is a metallic pop and when I get over the bump and back to flat ground there is another pop. I haven't really noticed any change in handling, just a new noise. Any ideas on what to look for?
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Nov 14, 2015 03:32
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| # ? May 27, 2024 21:50 |
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PDP-1 posted:I have an '04 Wrangler X model that has recently started making a popping sound when driving over any big enough bumps to moderately work the suspension. Basically when I start to drive over a bump there is a metallic pop and when I get over the bump and back to flat ground there is another pop. I haven't really noticed any change in handling, just a new noise. For me, that was a sway bar link that had sheared off.
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Nov 14, 2015 06:41
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