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Excellent.
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Nov 5, 2015 03:01
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^^ That reminds me; I was going to comment on this.SteelMentor posted:Quick practice at painting Alpha Legion in that funky metallic style. Can't exactly follow the Forge World style due to lack of airbrush, but working up layers of Guilliman Blue If you're looking for tips, I think you could improve your results by making the eyes brighter. They should probably be at least as bright as the gem on his chestpiece, which is the focal point right now. Some OSL around the eyes to make them look like they're glowing would help too, if you feel up to it. Also, another layer of highlights on the metallic bits on his face would help draw attention to it. Those should let you keep the overall look while keeping the mini from looking too busy. Right now, the eye is drawn to the chestpiece, which is the busiest area of the whole model (Chaos symbol, the dude's face right above it, a bolter right below it, etc).
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Nov 5, 2015 04:04
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Can any eurogoon tell me where to buy casting resin? The Hirst site only mentions (afaik) american vendors, and I'm not sure which brand to pick on Ebay/Amazon. e: not sure what thread to post this in, it's for figurines, not terrain
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Nov 5, 2015 08:04
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posting yet more ad-mech Finished this datasmith (best name) yesterday, here he is flanked by one of his kastelan charges. tonight i'll finish up my Techpriest Dominus! after that, i'll either focus on my onager or sydonian dragoon.
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Nov 5, 2015 08:10
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Thanks for the airbrush links, one final question, the OP implies the 105 is only really good for basecoating, is it not a good airbrush for finer work?
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Nov 5, 2015 09:11
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ijyt posted:Thanks for the airbrush links, one final question, the OP implies the 105 is only really good for basecoating, is it not a good airbrush for finer work? You can put a fine detail needle/nozzle set in it (don't mix up the needles and nozzles, they are matched pairs), but swapping airbrushes is much much easier than swapping needles...but it does of course mean having 2 airbrushes, a quick release, airbrush rack/stand, etc. mike12345 posted:Can any eurogoon tell me where to buy casting resin? The Hirst site only mentions (afaik) american vendors, and I'm not sure which brand to pick on Ebay/Amazon. I get mine from ebay, check fibreglass suppliers, search for 'rtv silicone' and 'rtv resin', those same sellers usually have 2-part resin
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Nov 5, 2015 11:00
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Anyone have good suggestions for a premade wash for pale skin? I have Reikland Fleshshade, but it's a bit too orange for what I'm going for. I'm trying to paint some Malifaux minis, specifically the hired swords box. I'm debating on traditional base coat + wash. Or just thinning my flesh paint to glaze and letting the zenithal priming do its work. I'm only going for tabletop quality, not exactly needing showcase level detail.
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Nov 5, 2015 12:10
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Floppychop posted:Anyone have good suggestions for a premade wash for pale skin? What about Agrax Earthshade, or a mix of this and Fleshshade? Fleshshade is kinda a redish brown, so the Earthshade would tone down the red.
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Nov 5, 2015 18:55
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What are some good long-form videos for basic painting? I'm willing to buy a DVD. I want to SEE what the right paint consistency is, not just say "thin your paints, layer, etc".. I want some hands on up close but I cannot stand 99% of the videos I find on youtube because they are just terribly shot.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:01
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signalnoise posted:What are some good long-form videos for basic painting? I'm willing to buy a DVD. I want to SEE what the right paint consistency is, not just say "thin your paints, layer, etc".. I want some hands on up close but I cannot stand 99% of the videos I find on youtube because they are just terribly shot. No idea, but here's my free advice. I take one big number 0 brush full of paint and put it on my wet pallet, then I take an eyedropper and add one drop of water per each brushfull of paint. If I'm adding a highlighting or shading layer, I add a drop of mixing medium on top of that for every 3-4 brushfulls of paint. I just saved you 
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Nov 5, 2015 19:05
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signalnoise posted:What are some good long-form videos for basic painting? I'm willing to buy a DVD. I want to SEE what the right paint consistency is, not just say "thin your paints, layer, etc".. I want some hands on up close but I cannot stand 99% of the videos I find on youtube because they are just terribly shot. Are there no local places that do painting lessons for miniatures? That's really the only way you can get this sort of advice. The ones I've attended had people who were more than willing enough to make a large batch of paint so people can actually dip their brushes into it and feel, using the bristles, the consistency of the paint. No photography or video can really show it. People say to start with skim milk consistency but even then the feeling's not exactly the same, you'll probably have fluid mediums to help improve the flow or increase drying time, and other factors. A friend gave me a rather old copy of some painting videos like CMON's "painting with natalya" or "painting with jennifer." They do well enough to show how it's applied, or what it should look like with some shine from the lights, but you won't know from the video what the paint looks like on the palette.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:15
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signalnoise posted:What are some good long-form videos for basic painting? I'm willing to buy a DVD. I want to SEE what the right paint consistency is, not just say "thin your paints, layer, etc".. I want some hands on up close but I cannot stand 99% of the videos I find on youtube because they are just terribly shot. I like Masterworks Miniature Painting, although it's kind of expensive. It was a good refresher for me after spending ages not painting. The videos do a pretty good job showing paint actually going on the model. Here is a trailer. Chill la Chill posted:A friend gave me a rather old copy of some painting videos like CMON's "painting with natalya" or "painting with jennifer." They do well enough to show how it's applied, or what it should look like with some shine from the lights, but you won't know from the video what the paint looks like on the palette. The DVD above does show paints on the palette (both a wet palette and a ceramic palette), and they show the consistency of it in a few different ways, like taking a big brushful and brushing it onto an empty sheet of plastic. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 5, 2015 19:17
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Floppychop posted:Anyone have good suggestions for a premade wash for pale skin? Have you tried using a red wash?
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Nov 5, 2015 19:17
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Avenging Dentist posted:I like Masterworks Miniature Painting, although it's kind of expensive. It was a good refresher for me after spending ages not painting. The videos do a pretty good job showing paint actually going on the model. Here is a trailer. Right. The preview doesn't show much but I assume it's like the painting buddha setup. That preview looks similar to the CMON "paint with jennifer" video. Problem is, there's always gonna be sheen from the overhead lights and painting consistency in my experience was never about the look but about the feel of the paint in the brush. Like, sometimes it seems like I'm still good to go with my current blob of paint but it's actually mostly started drying underneath the surface but I won't know it until I dip the brush inside, feel it stick, and have to add more water or flow improver to it. So when the person watching tries to emulate the mixture with a different color, that may be more or less watery, the balance will be off. E: This is all in my mind again since I picked up the brush after almost 2 months of not painting and have to quickly remember how to blend again.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:31
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signalnoise posted:What are some good long-form videos for basic painting? I'm willing to buy a DVD. I want to SEE what the right paint consistency is, not just say "thin your paints, layer, etc".. I want some hands on up close but I cannot stand 99% of the videos I find on youtube because they are just terribly shot. Hey, it's that time in the thread where I shill for Painting Buddha again. Super detailed videos that show both the palette and miniature at all times, and they've got a fair amount of stuff up on youtube in addition to videos you can pay them for.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:41
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Floppychop posted:Anyone have good suggestions for a premade wash for pale skin? GW's own paint guides go like this: basecoat rakarth flesh, wash with athonian camo-shade, then highlight using krieg khaki and fine highlight with pallid wych flesh. substitute paints for your preferred brand. it gives a great effect tho, sickly green skin
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Nov 5, 2015 19:49
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krushgroove posted:You can put a fine detail needle/nozzle set in it (don't mix up the needles and nozzles, they are matched pairs), but swapping airbrushes is much much easier than swapping needles...but it does of course mean having 2 airbrushes, a quick release, airbrush rack/stand, etc. Would you mind if I PM you what I actually want to do with my airbrush? Don't want to buy what I don't need, but at the same time don't want to buy something then realise I need another £100+ purchase later.
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Nov 5, 2015 20:00
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signalnoise posted:What are some good long-form videos for basic painting? I'm willing to buy a DVD. I want to SEE what the right paint consistency is, not just say "thin your paints, layer, etc".. I want some hands on up close but I cannot stand 99% of the videos I find on youtube because they are just terribly shot. I remember being there, man. It's frustrating. I just wanted to know how much water/medium/whatever to put into my paint, and I didn't understand why no one could give me a really solid recipe. The truth is, we all paint different and we all are gonna use different consistencies of paint. Some of us are going to thin our paint to oblivion, and some of us are barely going to thin our paint at all. There isn't a right consistency, there's a consistency you like to work at. Unfortunately, the only way to get there is practice and actively trying to get better. DVD's and youtube are great for a lot of things, but nailing down consistency isn't one of them. So, here's an exercise.  Take a color. Put it on your palette. Put your brush in it then wiggle it back and forth and outward on some scrap paper. Then dip your brush in some water. Mix it around with your color. Repeat. That top example is how I like to paint. I don't often dip down into glaze territory because I generally don't spend a lot of time on a particular figure. I can achieve near perfect blends doing that, but I don't because it takes more time than I'm usually willing to spend. The bottom example is barely diluted and undiluted paint. The violet red has a fair bit of transparency naturally, but it's only got a damp half brush of water in it. The nightshade purple is straight out of the bottle. This isn't how I like to paint, but it's perfectly fine and plenty of really good painters paint like that. You like to experiment. Keep doing that. Just try to focus your experiments into constructive outcomes. Play around with consistency. See what works for you. Keep painting.
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Nov 5, 2015 20:16
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Hixson posted:pro x-post from the 40k thread: I'm really digging the paint job on the Javelin, everything looks great. Also glad to see that there is a SM vehicle that isn't a box with wheels or wings attached, the over all aesthetic is nice.
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Nov 5, 2015 20:33
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Dr. Gargunza posted:I think I learned about Black Lava from Bulbasaur too. Have you tried mashing it flat with a roller or scraper? It makes excellent asphalt/tarmac, especially if you drybrush it with a couple greys of your choice after it's cured. I have never tried this and I've been using the stuff for years. Thanks for the tip - I'll use it on my latest project!
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Nov 5, 2015 20:39
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krushgroove posted:I get mine from ebay, check fibreglass suppliers, search for 'rtv silicone' and 'rtv resin', those same sellers usually have 2-part resin cool found one, ta
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Nov 5, 2015 21:03
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I remember being there, man. It's frustrating. I just wanted to know how much water/medium/whatever to put into my paint, and I didn't understand why no one could give me a really solid recipe. The truth is, we all paint different and we all are gonna use different consistencies of paint. Some of us are going to thin our paint to oblivion, and some of us are barely going to thin our paint at all. There isn't a right consistency, there's a consistency you like to work at. Unfortunately, the only way to get there is practice and actively trying to get better. There really is a lot of trial and error to it too since all the paints are different too, so the right consistency for one might just be poo poo for another. Chill la Chill posted:Are there no local places that do painting lessons for miniatures? I really don't think there are any near me except the GW store. Cincinnati is pretty dead for miniatures at the moment it seems. It's so dead that I'm considering trying to start an unofficial casual form of a WMH Journeyman league, starting with a lesson or two about how to model and paint. I'm not even that great at modeling or painting, but it's really sad how limited everything is around here. The other problem is I don't even know how I would advertise, or who I would advertise to, or even where I could possibly host it.
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Nov 5, 2015 21:14
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SteelMentor posted:Quick practice at painting Alpha Legion in that funky metallic style. Can't exactly follow the Forge World style due to lack of airbrush, but working up layers of Guilliman Blue seemed to work out. Might look a little better on a less visually busy model. What's the undercoat beneath the Guilliman glazes?
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Nov 5, 2015 21:21
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Cross post from Valhallaw00tmonger posted:Witness!!! Less washed out in real life
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Nov 5, 2015 21:23
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I won't be needing this for a while, but in the interest of getting prepared early, does anyone have experience with using epoxy resins for making small water features on their bases? I have two needs: 1) something that i can make a small waterfall with (really, blood pouring down over the edge of a narrow channel), and 2) something that won't yellow. It'd also be nice to have something that cures fast enough that I could reasonably make little waves, but I might be able to do that with a different product. Reading about the various 5-minute epoxies, it seems that they all yellow, and I don't want my water to end up looking like piss after 6 months. Art Resin seems like a possibility, as does Magic Water. The former definitely has more info on their site, but the latter's been around for ages, so it's had more time to build up a reputation.
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Nov 5, 2015 21:27
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Iron Crowned posted:
Are you in the Cincy warmahordes group on Facebook? There's been a bit of a fracturing lately, but I think it'll all start comming back together in a few months.
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Nov 5, 2015 21:38
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Super 3 posted:I'm really digging the paint job on the Javelin, everything looks great. Also glad to see that there is a SM vehicle that isn't a box with wheels or wings attached, the over all aesthetic is nice. Hey thanks man. I'm still working up the courage to freehand the Thousand Sons legion logo on the javelin. Normally it'd be no big deal, you can cheat by covering up errors with the base color. But when the base color is a red gradient  . There are a surprising amount of cool looking vehicles for the Heresy. Legion Outrider bikes come to mind; which are a huge improvement over the stupid 40k space marine bikes
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Nov 5, 2015 22:45
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ijyt posted:Would you mind if I PM you what I actually want to do with my airbrush? Don't want to buy what I don't need, but at the same time don't want to buy something then realise I need another £100+ purchase later. Sure! Actually, email is way better: krushgroove169@gmail.com
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Nov 5, 2015 22:45
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PantsOptional posted:What's the undercoat beneath the Guilliman glazes? Leadbelcher base, layer Mithril Silver (or whatever it's called now) leaving Leadblecher in the recesses. Then glaze like a motherfucker.
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Nov 5, 2015 23:08
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Are you in the Cincy warmahordes group on Facebook? There's been a bit of a fracturing lately, but I think it'll all start comming back together in a few months. I don't use Facebook anymore?  I've been really content being Facebook free for like 18 months.
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Nov 5, 2015 23:24
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signalnoise posted:What are some good long-form videos for basic painting? I'm willing to buy a DVD. I want to SEE what the right paint consistency is, not just say "thin your paints, layer, etc".. I want some hands on up close but I cannot stand 99% of the videos I find on youtube because they are just terribly shot. Have you seen "Dr Faust's Painting Clinic"? Watching his videos helped me out quite a bit.
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Nov 6, 2015 02:57
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I think I just found the missing piece of the puzzle for me. Flow improver is making my paint act like the paint in the videos. I had just been using it wrong, and mostly not at all.
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Nov 6, 2015 04:21
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How were you using it wrong?
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Nov 6, 2015 05:30
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Might've been that I was using the wrong brand, too much, or too little. I just remember having a bad experience before. This time I used Liquitex flow aid and followed the directions and bam, perfect paint.
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Nov 6, 2015 10:53
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Probably too much. That *would* explain the sheen from your models on top of excessive camera flash and it tends to get sticky and makes it act like molasses when you work with it IIRC. I made that mistake too.
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Nov 6, 2015 15:24
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The best part about this honestly is it appears to be nicer to my brushes as well edit: OK so excluding the part where you tell me I need to clean mold lines, because GOD drat  
signalnoise fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Nov 6, 2015 |
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Nov 6, 2015 15:53
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stabbington posted:I basically always use a wet palette, though I ended up shelling out the Thanks, that's all very useful! I've just been using standard automotive primer (rustoleum). I'll try doing more quick passes and see if that helps.
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Nov 6, 2015 18:10
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for a nicer art store one with a sponge in it. I wouldn't worry about watering stuff down too much, it just means that you have to learn to control the amount of paint on your brush (valuable anyway) and paint slowly with glazes (can be annoying, but not the end of the world, can produce some truly stellar results as you can use all those layers to build up some really nice blends. The key is making sure you don't flood the area and waiting for your previous layer to dry (blow on it or use a hair dryer) before you apply a new one.
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Jeb Bush 2012 posted:Thanks, that's all very useful! I've just been using standard automotive primer (rustoleum). I'll try doing more quick passes and see if that helps. I like to use Valspar primer, it seems to give decent coverage without going on too gloopy for me. Also, for a wet pallet on the cheap, just get a couple sponges, an airtight container (I currently use one of those Tupperware knockoffs that you buy Pepperidge Farm lunch meat in, because they're almost free), and some parchment paper cut to size. Cheap easy and fast, the most expensive part is the sponges, because for the containers I use they fit about 1 2/3 sponges, I have to trim the corners and the top. I now have 3 of these in use at a time 
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Nov 6, 2015 18:16
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I prefer using Army painter primer. it's locally available and their uniform grey one is perfect for most everything. and for the remainder, there's black. here's my Tech-priest Dominus  hella proud of this fella. i need to finish the infoslave skull, his hand and the liquid tanks on his back, but everything else is either done or just need a teeny bit of tidying up.
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Nov 6, 2015 18:25
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signalnoise posted:The best part about this honestly is it appears to be nicer to my brushes as well When people say you really need to just go back the basics, I'd say a huge part of that is getting your basecoats neater. It just looks messy, and no amount of fancy technique on top of them is going to fix it
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Nov 6, 2015 19:52
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