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Ripoff posted:Eh, it basically sounds like a standard manual transmission they slip into the average car nowadays when they're expecting to sell mostly automatics to everyone. It's not surprising but beggars can't be choosers. As for the radio and bluetooth, I was reading about that earlier and realized an aftermarket head unit would be in my future. Not really surprising as even the Mazda3's system (which is lauded for being really well designed and user friendly) is a complete clusterfuck with my iPhone and doesn't do half the poo poo it purports to do with regards to reading text messages, etc. I had it working at one point and it gave up the ghost over the last week, and the system also loves to randomly reboot or just not turn on at all while driving sometimes. Tech is tech and it doesn't matter much to me. They calculate the tow ratings different in the US because we hand out drivers licenses in boxes of Cracker Jacks. You can tow things, but warranty, yeah. Maths: http://oppositelock.kinja.com/tow-me-down-1609112611
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Nov 4, 2015 06:54
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I have a ej207 v8 and was wondering what the proper way to check coolant level was. I notice it has two radiator caps as well as an over flow container. Do i just go by whats in the overflow? thanks
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Nov 4, 2015 07:08
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BigHouseOfBooty posted:I have a ej207 v8 and was wondering what the proper way to check coolant level was. I notice it has two radiator caps as well as an over flow container. Do i just go by whats in the overflow? thanks Generally, yes, though it isn't a bad idea to pop off the radiator caps (when cold, obviously) every once in a while to make sure there isn't an issue there. I know the EJ255 had a TSB for fluid not draining back into the radiator from the overflow (due to the hose getting clogged), for example.
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Nov 4, 2015 07:25
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Check at the top radiator cap. The coolant level when full is above the lower cap on the radiator. That is mostly there just to aid filling and if you take it off coolant will start pouring out. Overflow basically just needs to not be empty.
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Nov 4, 2015 07:47
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 So just open the circled cap when cold and make sure I see fluid yes? Really neat I didn't know it sat higher.
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Nov 4, 2015 07:56
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Pretty sure its to make sure theres a higher spot than the turbo so it keeps circulating when the cars off. Coolant boils, rises, leaves a vacuum which pulls cold coolant through.
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Nov 4, 2015 08:07
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FogHelmut posted:They calculate the tow ratings different in the US because we hand out drivers licenses in boxes of Cracker Jacks. You can tow things, but warranty, yeah. The difference is that Europeans are assumed to be towing for short periods of time at low speeds, and their rating system is based on this. US tow ratings assume you will be going onto the highway and going up and down hills for longer periods of time. Both rating systems match the typical use cases you'd see in their respective regions.
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Nov 4, 2015 17:14
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Would these fit on my 92x? 16x7 et 35. I know they're not good wheels, but I'm looking for a cheapo winter beater set up that looks kinda cool. http://www.frsport.com/Privat-Remember-16X7-5x100-114-3-ET35-Silver-Wheel_p_54313.html
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Nov 4, 2015 17:55
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I guess things have changed, but the manual on my 07 STI says that it can do 100lb tongue weight and 500lb towing weight. I put a hitch on mine to tow my motorcycle to / from events. I only used it a few times a year and was always real gentle on accel / decel, seemed reasonable to me.
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Nov 4, 2015 18:57
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martinlutherbling posted:Would these fit on my 92x? 16x7 et 35. I know they're not good wheels, but I'm looking for a cheapo winter beater set up that looks kinda cool. http://www.frsport.com/Privat-Remember-16X7-5x100-114-3-ET35-Silver-Wheel_p_54313.html Math is your friend. Do you have 20mm to a full inch of clearance between the tire and fender at full compression? Just get some used wheels off an older wrx or something.
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Nov 4, 2015 19:31
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jamal posted:Math is your friend. Do you have 20mm to a full inch of clearance between the tire and fender at full compression? You can Plastidip them hot pink if you want something fun.
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Nov 4, 2015 19:36
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Lilbeefer posted:I recently had my 6MT 08 2.5t Liberty/legacy serviced and when I got it back I noticed a distinct "pshhhhh" waste gate sound when I let off the throttle. I am sure it wasn't there when I dropped it off. I actually dont mind it, its very subtle however was under the impression that Subaru turbo engines plumb the waste gate into the intake from the factory. I couldnt see anything untoward under the hood. Does anyone know if this is normal? I am worried I am going to blow something up unless I get it fixed...
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Nov 5, 2015 01:14
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Is there a chance you are just hyperalert listening for sounds that weren't there before the service? I'm pretty sure it's normal, atleast I can hear my stock 2.0 do that sometimes with the window down and radio off, and it's done it since I bought it over a year ago with no signs of problems Speaking of turbos though, I'm fairly sure I'm still running the factory installed one from 10 years and 210 000kms ago. When do I start worrying about it grenading? Also are there good options for quicker spool that don't lack too much topend? I've found I prefer hard pulling acceleration to long high end slow spooling power runs, also low end is way more fun on twisties.
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Nov 5, 2015 01:37
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I'm really not feeling the tan plastic steering wheel in my 2008 impreza base model. Can I subaru lego a leather wrapped wrx wheel on there in it's place? I mean they're only like $100 and I'll keep the original airbag in there.
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Nov 5, 2015 18:12
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The 16 WRX wheel is 
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Nov 5, 2015 18:17
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Right now, Subaru is running an ad for the Crosstrek telling people to 'unkhaki' which is hilarious considering that the Crosstrek actually comes in a color called khaki.
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Nov 5, 2015 18:30
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BloodBag posted:I'm really not feeling the tan plastic steering wheel in my 2008 impreza base model. Can I subaru lego a leather wrapped wrx wheel on there in it's place? I mean they're only like $100 and I'll keep the original airbag in there. Yeah you can change the rim out separately from the airbag. I think that's what the dudes who buy the DAMD steering wheels do.
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Nov 5, 2015 20:42
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There are even some aftermarket wheels designed to work with the stock airbag and controls and stuff: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/prv-94010dm0010-prova-d-shaped-steering-wheel Maybe that mazda idiot with the airbag zip-tied to his steering wheel should have looked into those.
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Nov 5, 2015 20:52
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BloodBag posted:I'm really not feeling the tan plastic steering wheel in my 2008 impreza base model. Can I subaru lego a leather wrapped wrx wheel on there in it's place? I mean they're only like $100 and I'll keep the original airbag in there. I've got my oem one kicking around if you want to do an AI transaction. From a 2010 WRX. Pm me.
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Nov 5, 2015 21:08
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jamal posted:There are even some aftermarket wheels designed to work with the stock airbag and controls and stuff: Wow, the Prova is even more expensive than the DAMD wheels. I didn't think it was possible to get worse than $530 for a steering wheel rim.
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Nov 5, 2015 21:35
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Mange Mite posted:The difference is that Europeans are assumed to be towing for short periods of time at low speeds, and their rating system is based on this. US tow ratings assume you will be going onto the highway and going up and down hills for longer periods of time. Both rating systems match the typical use cases you'd see in their respective regions. That doesnt account for Australia where a Forester can be towing a caravan for 10-12 hours @ 100kph, ie we have more US style towing but Euro ratings. And we'll put a towbar on a Ferrari.
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Nov 5, 2015 22:07
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I have a set of front and rear wet okole seat covers in the pipe. I ordered them a couple weeks ago. If anyone is interested i can keep you guys updated on how it goes?
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Nov 5, 2015 22:59
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:And we'll put a towbar on a Ferrari. text me
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Nov 6, 2015 01:50
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Its funny though because we do that yet our most popular vehicle is a complete piece of poo poo ute that can't tow poo poo because its better for skids than its competitor.
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Nov 6, 2015 02:02
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Its funny though because we do that yet our most popular vehicle is a complete piece of poo poo ute that can't tow poo poo because its better for skids than its competitor. 1600 kgs legally - It'll tow waaaaaaaay beyond that very well however. Still kinda silly as the Commodore sedan is legal to 2100kgs depending on which state. Dunno where you are getting the cant tow poo poo thing from, sure you cant tow a bobcat or something like that legally but Commodore utes are completely fine and.... I have no knowledge first hand about towing two ton of rally car and tools / tyres. No knowledge of this whatsoever.
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Nov 6, 2015 02:26
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I mean maybe all of the ones I've seen have been very badly mistreated (They are commodores) but they've always struggled to be on par with non sports utes in a practical sense. My dads base model single cab BT50 (the 2.5 diesel RWD without low range) has been able to handle a tonne more weight without anywhere near as much struggle. I also really hate having the lower tray, it's annoying to load and unload and bad for your back. My favourite commodore moment was watching an R8 scrape with some plasterboard in the tray coming out of bunnings.
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Nov 6, 2015 02:52
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My 2004 Impreza 2.5TS has a clunk/brief rattle in my front end when going over bumps. Recently replaced items are both control arms + ball joints with OEM by Barrie Subaru, tie rod ends (Delco), and struts+mounts (KYB GR2 struts and KYB mounts). I have been totally unable to find the source of the clunk for weeks now, so yesterday I dropped it at the local Napa Autopro and they tell me that there is nothing unsafe and they cannot specifically find the problem. After test driving and inspecting, their tech suggests that the new struts or mounts may have gone bad. Does this sound reasonable? I ordered the struts and mounts from tirerack back in April and would have to try to get them warrantied, I guess.
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Nov 6, 2015 18:14
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When did the rattle start? If it's not reasonably close to when you hosed with it, I'd be hesitant to claim it's the new parts. Things I'd look at include the heat shield and the exhaust mounts in general, since those are pretty easy to check and even easier to overlook.
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Nov 6, 2015 18:22
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Winter wheels/tire chat for my 2016 Outback again. My dealer said that it's a good idea to get a set of 17" wheels/tires (downsizing from the all season 18" wheels/tires). He said I'd "probably get a much better deal buying the wheels from a 3rd party rather than us". If I pick up a Tirerack suggested combo, do I still need to buy like... TPMS sensors for each wheel?
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Nov 6, 2015 22:05
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:Winter wheels/tire chat for my 2016 Outback again. I skipped the TPMS sensors and put a square of electrical tape over the light. If you do buy them, you'll need to pay at the dealer to re-program the car to the sensors every time you swap wheels, so i decided since my dealer is 3 hours away to skip them.
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Nov 6, 2015 22:32
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perabyte posted:I skipped the TPMS sensors and put a square of electrical tape over the light. If you do buy them, you'll need to pay at the dealer to re-program the car to the sensors every time you swap wheels, so i decided since my dealer is 3 hours away to skip them. I like this solution. I also heard that the EyeSight system might get hosed up if I drop to smaller wheels, but I don't care too much about that either.
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Nov 6, 2015 22:36
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:I like this solution. All you're doing is getting smaller rims with thicker sidewalls. So you're won't be any closer to the ground. Look in the owners manual, it specifies wheel sizes that will work with the car.
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Nov 6, 2015 22:38
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:That doesnt account for Australia where a Forester can be towing a caravan for 10-12 hours @ 100kph, ie we have more US style towing but Euro ratings. And we'll put a towbar on a Ferrari. I always assumed from movies that Australians have a rather lax attitude towards car safety. And also they have no turns or hills, just very yellow deserts
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Nov 6, 2015 22:40
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People who claim that European drivers are on average better than North American drivers aren't necessarily wrong, but people tow more heavily on lighter vehicles than North Americans do all around the globe. In terms of road conditions meaning that American drivers are expected to maintain greater speeds and acceleration, that's probably true in some regions, but not all. What it really comes down to is tolerance for stupidity in regulations. In America, road and vehicle regulations assume that you are a loving moron and so is everyone else on the road, so to get a vehicle tow rated for a couple jet skis or whatever you're looking at trucks and mid-size CUVs despite the fact that a Focus could do the job. People have towed across America with cars, motorcycles, and "dangerously" underpowered 4-cylinder trucks for decades, there no physical reason for America having different towng regulations, it's simply a byproduct of culture. So do whatever the gently caress you want with your car, it'll be fine, though your warranty may not be.
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Nov 7, 2015 02:59
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I didn't realize how nice and quiet and comfortable my base impreza is compared to a ~Grand Touring~ NC miata. It's just quiet and smooth and ate up highway miles like nothing. I drove to and from New Braunfels, TX yesterday. I was going to ride a bike tour there, but the whole area was wiped out pretty bad by recent floods so all the campgrounds are pretty much demolished. The river is still so swollen by the banks that a mouse fart of rain and the whole area becomes inaccessible again. And now it's looking like I'll be making a drive to Richardson (a suburb of Dallas/Ft. Worth) today. My poor subie's getting run ragged, and it seems to not give a poo poo.
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Nov 7, 2015 12:28
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Ive been playing around logging and lightly tuning my wrx (open port). I have an AEM wide band. How important is EGT? Do I really need a sensor for that?
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Nov 7, 2015 16:11
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Sadi posted:Ive been playing around logging and lightly tuning my wrx (open port). I have an AEM wide band. How important is EGT? Do I really need a sensor for that? It can be a great tool to use when you start to play with alternative fuels, trick injectors, etc, but not a must have. Your wideband will give you decent averages, but won't necessarily give you data or show isolated failure/performance issues for individual cylinders/probes, and can make playing with fuel/timing a guessing game sometimes. If you really want to get anal with ballparking it with what you have, you can do a visual check on plugs after each pull, but that's  .
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Nov 7, 2015 22:33
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Mange Mite posted:I always assumed from movies that Australians have a rather lax attitude towards car safety. And also they have no turns or hills, just very yellow deserts War Boys can be a problem tho
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Nov 8, 2015 02:18
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Previous gen Legacy? Looks a bit weird from this angle  Oh  These new Chinese imports are just hilarious - never know where the next 'inspiration' is going to come from
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Nov 8, 2015 02:28
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I have a 2016 WRX, first Subaru, first car since the mid 90s, been Ford trucks since then. I was done with trucks, completely done with Ford, the vehicles are fine, their service is garbage. Not totally divorced from Ford, I drive a Super Duty diesel at work. Great truck, still, their service can eat a dick. No more of my money. No regrets though, I haven't enjoyed a car this much in a very long time. My parents had an 87 Grand National that for some reason I was allowed to drive. Totally different animal though, objectively if you look back at the GN, it's a bad car. But it had something that redeemed it, more than the sum of its parts... I also had a 70 Roadrunner that looked awesome, sounded awesome but musclecars are a money pit. (overthinking incoming) I have been reading up on oil for the thing. I don't drive the WRX to work so it is mostly short trips during the week, my understanding is that this is tough on the condition of the oil. Condensation and fuel that is normally burned off builds up. So just working with round numbers, I have the included oil changes every 6k from the dealer. I am going to change the oil on the 3k in between. Probably leave the filter for the 6k interval. Depending on sales at the time, somewhere between 30 and 40 bucks to do it myself. Oh, and this will be a topside oil change through the dipstick tube. Given all that unnecessary backstory. This plan can be oil brand agnostic assuming 5w-30 full synthetic major brand. I have read things on oil shearing and whatnot but I think I am pretty safe with my plan and can safely shop by price. Walmart has Mobil1 for ~$26 for a 5qt jug right now but that may not always be the cheapest.
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Nov 8, 2015 21:58
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