|
What the gently caress fancy technique did I even attempt
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2015 21:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 18:34 |
|
|
I'm not saying that, I'm just saying without the basic base coat nothing will work
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2015 21:22
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:What the gently caress fancy technique did I even attempt I'm kinda curious how you're doing your painting at all
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2015 21:24
|
|
|
Iron Crowned posted:I'm kinda curious how you're doing your painting at all What do you mean
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2015 21:26
|
|
|
Whoever wrote about trying matte medium, you're a genius. I've discovered what's wrong with my glazing and wet blending and why watering down with just glaze medium still gave me very subpa results. Water + flow medium + matte medium + glaze medium + paint = win.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2015 21:30
|
|
|
 Tech-priest Dominus is done. my completed Ad-mech unit count is now 3 composing 9 whole models.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2015 22:35
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:What do you mean I mean what are your tools and paints? How are you going about painting from start to finish? Things like that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2015 23:00
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:Water + flow medium + matte medium + glaze medium + paint = win. Explain? How does flow medium work with glaze medium, I thought they were like complete opposites.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2015 23:48
|
|
|
Iron Crowned posted:I mean what are your tools and paints? I dunno man, I use BSI glue, various paintbrushes, nitrile gloves, and a thing of water. Paints are generally reaper, P3, or vallejo. I have lots of inks, washes, and glazes too. Honestly I have too many tools to list. Usual procedure is wash in warm water, assemble, spray with vallejo surface primer or spraypaint depending if I wanna use a color for the undercoat. If I used VSP I then airbrush on one color for the whole thing which will be the primary color. From there I use thinned paints in multiple coats to cover areas that will be a different color than the base color. Shade, highlight, wash, seal, use powders or drybrush if it's appropriate, seal again.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 01:37
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Explain? How does flow medium work with glaze medium, I thought they were like complete opposites. Well I'm not sure if the flow medium is strictly necessary, I dope my diluent water with about 10-20% flow so it goes into literally everything. I've not heard of them being totally opposite though, what's the context for that? My understanding is: Flow medium - reduces surface tension Glaze medium - solvent component of paint without the pigment which keeps pigment particles suspended better than plain water. Matte medium - as glaze medium except with the matting component present in matte varnish.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 11:18
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:Well I'm not sure if the flow medium is strictly necessary, I dope my diluent water with about 10-20% flow so it goes into literally everything. I've not heard of them being totally opposite though, what's the context for that? The opposites thing is that both flow and glaze thin your paint but flow makes it flow into all the details like a wash, while glaze makes it stay where you paint, more than just medium. At least that was my experience with those.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 11:32
|
|
|
Meanwhile, the Painting Buddha video that was posted recently has the painter saying he doesn't use glaze medium, etc., just plain water, and you can see the results he gets. So it's just what you're comfortable and have experience with.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 13:48
|
|
|
I use matte medium in place of water for thinning for 90% of my painting, which I have been told is wrong and does not work. So yeah, go figure If I'm doing some fairly simple blending I'll stick a bit of glaze medium in For really proper hardcore glaze blending (juicing), just pure water though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 14:36
|
|
|
I'm taking this a step further back. On the left is just base coat. On the right, I have shaded relatively recessed areas, highlighted the raised areas, and drybrushed a little. Is this correct? Still looks messy to me and I don't really know how to be less messy here. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 16:33
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I'm taking this a step further back. On the left is just base coat. On the right, I have shaded relatively recessed areas, highlighted the raised areas, and drybrushed a little. First, I'm not sure what you're trying to paint. Second for what I see, you're misunderstanding how shading works. It looks like you're taking the first highlight layer and shading it down to the base coat. They darker color should be your basecoat. Then highlights with the lighter color. Really talk a look at model on the left dim the lights and shine a flashlight on it and see how light and shadow work. My biggest observation with what you're doing is it seems like you're trying to fly before you've learned to walk.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 16:42
|
|
|
Skarsnik posted:I use matte medium in place of water for thinning for 90% of my painting, which I have been told is wrong and does not work. So yeah, go figure Matte medium won't thin the consistency, but it changes the acrylic/pigment ratio so that when it dries it forms a thinner layer. I'm not 100% sure what the difference between glaze and matte medium is (presumably the latter is more 'matte') but I have found anecdotally that using glaze medium seems to provide better results when I'm trying to do blending. Flow improver, as stated, breaks up the surface tension so that the paint naturally flows into recesses better. Drying retarder (not mentioned) slows down how fast the paint dries, so that you can push it where you want more before it sets (which is very useful for washes). Water (distilled!) does all three of these things to varying degrees, although not quite as well as any one of them. You can get away with just water, I think -- the reason to use the additives mentioned above is if you want more of one of those properties than another.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 16:45
|
|
|
Iron Crowned posted:My biggest observation with what you're doing is it seems like you're trying to fly before you've learned to walk. This is supposed to be the basics When does this infinite regression stop What the gently caress is walking in this analogy
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 16:47
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I'm taking this a step further back. On the left is just base coat. On the right, I have shaded relatively recessed areas, highlighted the raised areas, and drybrushed a little. The basecoat on the left doesn't have good or even coverage. Highlighting and shading won't fix that so it will still look messy. For that color I'd also probably prefer painting over white rather than black. e: and seconding basecoating your base color instead of your highlight color. You can coat in your highlight color and then hit it with a brown ink wash, which might work really well, but you still need really good coverage on that base coat. If you are thinning your paints, you might be 1) thinning them too much 2) using too much water/not enough medium (causing the pigments to be stretched too thin) 3) not doing enough coats to fill in the gaps (which you need to do if you're thinning a fair bit but not using high pigment density paint) Hubis fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Nov 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 16:48
|
|
|
Hubis posted:The basecoat on the left doesn't have good or even coverage. Highlighting and shading won't fix that so it ill still look messy. For that color I'd also probably prefer painting over white rather than black. How do you get good coverage while not putting too much in detail areas and muddying them? If I thin any more than I do then the paint just seeps into detail areas and away from raised parts. edit: ok
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 16:55
|
|
|
What size brush are you using to paint the base coat? Using one that's too small will make it really hard to get an even coat,the 'right' size will vary depending on the size of area you are painting.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 17:00
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:This is supposed to be the basics Walking is getting the basics. From what I see you seem to have a fundamental misunderstanding what a shade layer is. Think of it like a reverse highlight. Shades should be rather small to bring out details rather than a second, darker base coat.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 17:04
|
|
|
Frobbe posted:
Looks great! I'm really enjoying that all goon-made Techpriest Dominus models have orange robes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 17:04
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:...What size brush are you using to paint the base coat? Using one that's too small will make it really hard to get an even coat,the 'right' size will vary depending on the size of area you are painting. The right size is almost always the largest size brush you can get away with using for that area IMO.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 17:07
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:What size brush are you using to paint the base coat? Using one that's too small will make it really hard to get an even coat,the 'right' size will vary depending on the size of area you are painting. 2 or 3 generally
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 17:09
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:How do you get good coverage while not putting too much in detail areas and muddying them? If I thin any more than I do then the paint just seeps into detail areas and away from raised parts. I'd suggest making sure you're adding Matte Medium (you'll get better coverage for the same amount of thinning) or doing multiple coats (it won't pool because each layer will dry before you do the next coat).
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 17:13
|
|
|
Another thing about shades and highlights. Your difference between layers is pretty stark. Think about what colors go into the base color. For example I spent half my day painting a green cloak. Green is made from blue and yellow, so adding a darker blue to the base color created a nicer shade, while adding a yellow to the base green made a nice highlight without it being super obvious.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 17:16
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:How do you get good coverage while not putting too much in detail areas and muddying them? If I thin any more than I do then the paint just seeps into detail areas and away from raised parts. It's always best to thin the paints a little, but only a little unless you are looking to get a specific look such as adding a shade. When base-coating you generally want to thin very little to avoid the kind of seeping you're talking about. For larger models/areas apply paint in light layers, let it dry, and go back over it if you notice any streaking. The paint brand you are using is also generally important, as a generics will lack enough pigment to give you good coverage and make even a good layer appear murky. Regarding those bases, a lot of the issue with those is the "cloth" layer is very thin and the textures from underneath come through pretty strong.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 17:20
|
|
|
Hubis posted:Matte medium won't thin the consistency, but it changes the acrylic/pigment ratio so that when it dries it forms a thinner layer. I'm not 100% sure what the difference between glaze and matte medium is (presumably the latter is more 'matte') but I have found anecdotally that using glaze medium seems to provide better results when I'm trying to do blending. I've heard that glaze medium comes with retarder added, so that might explain why it improves blending.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 17:33
|
|
|
Do you guys use distilled water for your water cups too? Just realized I never used it and only ever use it for my water/retarder/flow improver dropper bottles. But, I do tend to add straight water from my water cup to thin things more or to wash between blending (I don't have the dexterity to use two-brush blending with one hand) so it might affect the paint's behavior just a bit.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 17:45
|
|
|
PierreTheMime posted:Looks great! I'm really enjoying that all goon-made Techpriest Dominus models have orange robes. The light is playing tricks on you a little bit, since i overexpose the gently caress out of my pictures due to the fact that i live in a dark dreary place (Denmark in the fall) I'm mostly painting my Ad-mech exactly similar to GW's own martian colours. Primed my Fulgurite electro-priests today, and my skitarii rangers! slapped some paint on my sydonian dragoon, though i really, really should've done subassemblies of both the dragoon and the onager.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 18:20
|
|
|
Chill la Chill posted:Do you guys use distilled water for your water cups too? Just realized I never used it and only ever use it for my water/retarder/flow improver dropper bottles. But, I do tend to add straight water from my water cup to thin things more or to wash between blending (I don't have the dexterity to use two-brush blending with one hand) so it might affect the paint's behavior just a bit. Normal, plain tap water, for thinning, airbrushing, washes, whatever.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 18:45
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:Normal, plain tap water, for thinning, airbrushing, washes, whatever. What he said. Also my tapwater is liquid rock (England ho!), and it doesn't affect my results.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 19:35
|
|
|
Chill la Chill posted:Do you guys use distilled water for your water cups too? Just realized I never used it and only ever use it for my water/retarder/flow improver dropper bottles. But, I do tend to add straight water from my water cup to thin things more or to wash between blending (I don't have the dexterity to use two-brush blending with one hand) so it might affect the paint's behavior just a bit. I started to after having noticed some home-made washes tended to leave an unsightly white ring at the 'tide marks', which I'm guessing is calcium/mineral deposits from the tap water. I don't bother in my cleaning cup (though I have started adding a drop of "Jet Dry" detergent to it, which sort of acts as a flow improver and helps clean the paint off the brush a bit more). I fill a spare dropper bottle with distilled H2O now, which is also better because I can control how much I'm adding a bit more easily. I also have a dropper bottle full of "Gunk" that's roughly 50% distilled water, 40% matte medium, 10% flow improver. Then I just add a number of drops to the paint based on how thinned i want it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 19:41
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:I've heard that glaze medium comes with retarder added, so that might explain why it improves blending. I think the difference is that glaze medium self-levels better. Liquitex at least advertises that their glaze medium 1) dries quickly, and 2) self-levels really well.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 19:47
|
|
|
Which brushes are recommended these days? I stumbled over these http://www.gamesandgears.co.uk/Ichibanbrushset.aspx#sthash.SI0MexMH.dpbs when they were up on kickstarter, and i was wondering if they're any good. I drag my stuff between home and the club regularly enough so that brushes with built in protection could be neat. currently i use some army painter brushes i won, and DURST brand kolinsky which are really nice (size 0/4 and size 0) and just for a bonus, have a picture of my paint progression from 1999 to today 
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 19:50
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:What he said. Also my tapwater is liquid rock (England ho!), and it doesn't affect my results. Hubis posted:I started to after having noticed some home-made washes tended to leave an unsightly white ring at the 'tide marks', which I'm guessing is calcium/mineral deposits from the tap water. I don't bother in my cleaning cup (though I have started adding a drop of "Jet Dry" detergent to it, which sort of acts as a flow improver and helps clean the paint off the brush a bit more). Interesting that it doesn't affect everyone, or that techniques cover it up. And yeah I would get those odd rings sometimes. Could usually make them go away with more flow improver or retardant so they don't dry as quickly. I'll try a dropper bottle just full of it for that purpose then. Distilled water's cheap!
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 19:51
|
|
|
So I'm going to a friend's place to paint and I just found out the magic "fat pack" boxes hold a perfect number of Vallejo paints. There's also some room above the paints to carry a hobby knife or hobby files. Always had trouble looking for a way to carry Vallejo paints without using a shoebox. I'm trying to remember which site sold minis and also sold empty fat pack boxes like this but coming up blank ATM. 
Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Nov 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 20:40
|
|
|
Hubis posted:I started to after having noticed some home-made washes tended to leave an unsightly white ring at the 'tide marks', which I'm guessing is calcium/mineral deposits from the tap water. I...would guess that it's not mineral deposits. Not on a 28mm model, anyway. I use water from Burton-on-Trent, England, which literally has world-famous hard water. If you're familiar with beer home brewing you may know of the 'Burtonization' process, which brewers in the old days used to do to their water to replicate the extra minerals that are in my local water. I say all that to illustrate how hard the water is around here. But basically I use homemade wash recipes and tap water and never see the tide rings you mention. I have noticed that the medium settles quite a bit in the containers, so maybe it's the medium you're using? Or maybe you need more flow aid - all you need for that is a drop of dish soap in a bottle or tub of water, you don't need anything more complicated or expensive than that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 20:44
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:Is this correct? Still looks messy to me and I don't really know how to be less messy here.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 20:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 18:34 |
|
|
So, I just painted my first model in years, a Griffon! I'm starting an IG armored company, and this is basically the color scheme I'm going for: This is a WIP thing, and I think I went way too heavy on the wash in parts, but I wanted to darken down the grey color, but otherwise I'm actually pretty happy about it! If anyone asks I'll just tell them it's extensive weathering. I also tried using Typhus Corrosion, and I kinda like it but I think I'll move on to weathering powders, since they give a more subtle effect. I have a few Leman Russes I'm going to paint next, but I think I'll do a camo pattern on them in a lighter grey color. Something similar to this, but wavy instead of jagged because I'm lazy:  Thoughts? Tips?
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 22:39
|
|