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Ready for rallycross son.
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Nov 9, 2015 04:48
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Fffffuuuuuccccck. Had the 93 out at Autocross today. Went WOT in 2nd gear in a high G turn and got treated to pinging and clouds of white smoke. Now the car poops smoke whenever you're in the upper rev range, even more smoke and sometimes pinging if its under load. Oil changed on Friday and might be overfilled by 0.2 quarts, because I normally just dump in the entire jug of Rotella T-6 and use an oversized filter without issues. Hoping that dropping some oil and replacing the PCV valve might fix the issue, but not betting on it. Coolant looks like Coolant. Oil doesn't look like chocolate milk. Compression test on Wednesday. My guess is Piston Rings, but i'm open to ideas. Laranzu fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Nov 9, 2015 |
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Nov 9, 2015 05:32
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Burnt valve maybe? [e] Probably not it wouldn't make any smoke like that. Yeah a compression/leakdown test is in order. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Nov 9, 2015 |
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Nov 9, 2015 06:57
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Laranzu posted:Fffffuuuuuccccck. When you do this, let us know what the plugs look like.
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Nov 9, 2015 14:34
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Can't really get a better panning shot than that, props to your photo person.
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Nov 9, 2015 17:10
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Looks good, but kinda silly without the rear caliper bracket painted to patch.
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Nov 9, 2015 19:42
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So still doing the compression test later this week, but I had an idea. I normally fill up with 91 octane, but for this run I was on 87 and its still hot out here in Hawaii. Would the detonation under race conditions itself cause the oil smoke? I just ran it up to operating temperatures and 4k RPM and there was no smoking (although we did kill our throw out bearing, and that fucker is death rattling)
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Nov 10, 2015 03:04
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HairyNipple! posted:I've been lucky enough to find some spare 10AE seats so I figure I might try the foamectomy on them. I have held off on doing it so far because I didn't want to ruin my only set of matching seats. It's not bad. The main foam to get rid of is the camel hump on the underside and you can shave the top center to give it a better shape. I also shaved a spinal curve into my seat back (you know, so it's not like leaning back against a surfboard any more).
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Nov 10, 2015 03:12
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Laranzu posted:So still doing the compression test later this week, but I had an idea. If it's black smoke, it's fuel related and you're probably experiencing predetonation leading to unburnt fuel in the exhaust. If it's white smoke and pinging, your headgasket is probably starting to fail between the bores when the coolant system is under enough pressure/load.
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Nov 10, 2015 04:18
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Laranzu posted:So still doing the compression test later this week, but I had an idea. Pull the breather line off and let me know how much gas comes out at mid/high RPM. That's the line on the valve cover on the exhaust side. You can let it go to atmosphere while testing this, plug the line that runs to the intake with your finger.
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Nov 10, 2015 05:01
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Muffinpox posted:If it's black smoke, it's fuel related and you're probably experiencing predetonation leading to unburnt fuel in the exhaust. Might have dicked up terminology. Its not a full knock. It was a smaller "marbles rattling around/getting hit by sand" noise and white smoke. So this failure is coolant getting into cylinders and burning off, but not mixing enough in the oil to be visible yet? I'd be happy if its just a head gasket. FatCow posted:Breather Tube Will pull the breather tomorrow and check for gas. Not having access to the extremely nice fully stocked garage with leak down and compression testing gear until Thursday is driving me nuts.
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Nov 10, 2015 05:29
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I'm currently tearing my hair out trying to diagnose an intermittent p0012 fault that's been happening over the last 6 months. TL;DR here at the top 2001 with 110k miles Loss of power and noise (pinging?) that doesn't seem noticable to anyone else Tendency to stall at high altitude Intermittent check engine light with a P0012 error Since noticing the problem I have replaced: O2 sensor(s), camshaft position sensor, timing belt, spark plugs, coils, oil (with lightest weight recommended). The story so far: - Noticed slightly less power. It's mostly manifested as starts from a dead stop being rougher than usual and having to downshift on hills that I didn't have issues with previously. It's nothing anyone else notices, but having driving my car over the same 36 mile commute every day it's just at the threshold of my detection. - Noticed very faint sounds like a marble rattling inside an empty soda can at a great distance, I'm assuming this is pinging. It generally happens when the engine is under medium to high load at around 3500 to 4000 RPM (especially happens when going up a long gradual hill). It goes away if I either back off on the gas, or push the pedal down significantly further. No one else who's sat in the car has been able to hear it though, so I kept writing it off as just in my head. - Replaced spark plugs just because - Took a road trip 6 months ago and the engine started to violently cut in and out at the top of a 5000 foot pass. It happened after I'd crested though, so I shifted into neutral and coasted a few miles to the next gas station. By the time I stopped everything was running smoothly. - On the way home from said road trip, I took a more windy route and the car flat out died at 8000 feet with an O2 sensor fault, the P0012 fault, and a camshaft position sensor fault. Let it sit for an hour, started it up again, then limped it over the crest in first gear and the problem went away after descending several thousand feet. - Took it to a shop figuring someone who knows more than me should look at it. $500 later I had the camshaft position sensor and O2 sensors replaced. - Noticed faint pinging sounds several weeks later. Symptoms seeming to come back but no one else who I've let drive the car or ride along can hear it or notice the power loss. - Check engine light came on as I pulled into my driveway, it was a P0012 fault. It cleared itself without a trace next time I started the engine. - Changed oil back to normal synthetic of the lightest weight recommended by the manual (had switched to one notch heavier after being down a quart in between oil changes) - Replaced coils - Last night on the way home I noticed a new layer of noise (very very faint) on top of what I'm calling pinging. Loss of power seemed more noticeable. Check engine light came on as I pulled into my driveway. Drove around the block this morning and it's still there. At this point I'm out of ideas. I don't know whether I should foist it off onto some unsuspecting dealership and trade it in for a new one, throw money at it with a shop that specializes in miatas, take the engine apart and see if I can put it back together again (wooo learning experience!), or leverage my knowledge of electronics (which is significantly higher than my knowledge of engines) to turn it into an oversized electric go-kart
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Nov 11, 2015 05:46
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I had a friend dealing with a p0012 and it turned out to be a faulty PCM. Around the same mileage as well. If you know anyone else with a 2001, pop theirs into your car and see if that fixes it.Laranzu posted:Might have dicked up terminology. Yea, marbles is also predetonation. The bores are surrounded by coolant jackets, if the headgasket starts failing between them you'all see white smoke and some pinging. There's probably some coolant in the oil but enough is getting burned off where it's not noticeable. Eventually it will build up in the oil or the failure will get bad enough where the coolant  the cylinder enough that it leaks down past the rings into the oil.
Muffinpox fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Nov 11, 2015 |
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Nov 11, 2015 06:12
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Wow, it's 100 times easier to replace the headlight bulbs on the miata compared to the Mazda 6. I didn't even have to reach blindly into the fender to fish out the bulb. A+ would change headlights again
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Nov 11, 2015 06:22
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Great Beer posted:Wow, it's 100 times easier to replace the headlight bulbs on the miata compared to the Mazda 6. I didn't even have to reach blindly into the fender to fish out the bulb. Yeah, I'll take a NA or NB headlamp replacement any day over dealing with the clusterfuck that was my Dad's E46. 
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Nov 11, 2015 09:57
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I was replacing mine in my parents' driveway and I apparently blew my neighbor's mind when I showed him I could replace it in like 30 seconds vs whatever insanity it is in a modern VW-based Skoda.
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Nov 11, 2015 13:21
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Atomizer posted:Yeah, I'll take a NA or NB headlamp replacement any day over dealing with the clusterfuck that was my Dad's E46. My brother has a 2009-ish Chevy Malibu. It took us over an hour to do headlights, as we had to remove the entire front bumper to get at them.
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Nov 11, 2015 14:38
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LeftistMuslimObama posted:Anyone nearish Wisconsin looking for a hard top? I have an NB-era hard top in decent condition (the type with the defroster grid) I'm trying to sell, and I'm not getting any bites from local Craigslist. It's red, a couple faded spots in the paint but otherwise in good condition. I have not heard from Destructo, so is anyone else interested in the hard top, or the enkei rpf-1s? They're 15s, and they have Toyo T1-Rs on them that still have a summer or two of life left. The car itself is going to be donated to a local organization that teaches at-risk youth how to fix cars. I am now the proud lessee of a 2016 Mazda3.
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Nov 11, 2015 17:29
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I drove the NA into work yesterday, and I'm now broken: I'm addicted to torque. It's ridiculous how livable the Skyactiv 2.0 and how good the gearbox is. Send help.
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Nov 12, 2015 15:23
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Phone posted:I drove the NA into work yesterday, and I'm now broken: I'm addicted to torque. K-Swap it already (or boost it)
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Nov 12, 2015 16:24
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Phone posted:I drove the NA into work yesterday, and I'm now broken: I'm addicted to torque. Just drive something shittier first before you get in the NA. I got into mine after driving the protege for awhile and it felt like a loving Ferrari 
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Nov 12, 2015 17:52
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Compression test results (Forgot my oil at home to do the wet test. Will re run that later if the issue continues): 160/145/160/160. No exhaust gas in coolant. The plugs at the back were showing a bit rich. They didn't have the stuff for a leakdown test, so I might still do that in the future. We're going with either oil overfilled and shooting into the intake, or some kind of lean condition due to the unknown vintage of the fuel filter/pump. Possibility of slightly failing gasket or valves. Its running fine now so who knows. Laranzu fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Nov 13, 2015 |
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Nov 13, 2015 03:49
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Anyone have any tips on how to get a new rubber dust boot that covers the lower caliper bolt on the front brakes in? I can't seem to seat it properly.
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Nov 14, 2015 19:43
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Lube and moderate heat. Something like dish soap and a hairdryer.
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Nov 14, 2015 20:34
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Could a vacuum leak cause misfiring? Because all of a sudden my Miata is randomly bouncing off the rev limiter for no apparent reason.
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Nov 15, 2015 03:44
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Bought a set of NC miata OEM wheels with good tread left on the OEM tires, to use as winter wheels. Holy poo poo they look loving terrible, and as the tires are smaller my driveway scraping problem is even worse. I can't get these FM springs installed fast enough. Silver cars with wheels that are a different silver look like barf. This car desperately needs to run 18's or 17's with a lot of tire to look decent.
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Nov 15, 2015 05:27
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leica posted:Could a vacuum leak cause misfiring? Because all of a sudden my Miata is randomly bouncing off the rev limiter for no apparent reason. Yep, especially at idle. EGR valve/system can be a cause.
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Nov 15, 2015 07:37
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https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/5268343420.html What should I look for? I emailed him the following earlier tonight: Hi, Is the Miata still available? I was wondering if you'd be willing to provide some of the following info: Do you have documentation of the timing belt/pump being replaced? Is the clutch original? Rust or body issues? I know the rear rocker panels/wheel wells commonly have this issue Paint condition overall? Interior condition? I apologize for all of the questions. I'm a former Miata owner and have been on the hunt for an NA. If you're available Sunday (I guess that's today already) I'd potentially like to come and see it if you're available. If you'd rather call than email that's just fine as well. ### I used to have an NC, but sold it off about a year ago. I've been waiting to pick up another and this seems like a decent deal assuming there's documentation for the major items. It also has the hardtop. Thanks guys!
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Nov 15, 2015 08:14
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http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html If you pop the hood, check the crankshaft and the bolt. If that bolt looks sheared in anyway, pass.
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Nov 15, 2015 08:17
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mariooncrack posted:http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html Thank you. Honestly I'll have to do keeping Googling because I just read that and am not sure how this is checked, but this is good to know. If he has documentation and the bolt looks good is this a good pick-up? EDIT: http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/crank/loctite_6.htm So if the pulley wobbles? Also if the timing wear mark is out of the original grove? I doubt he's going to let me remove the bolt... EDIT 2: alright, this is making a bit more sense. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P75feCy_MRM So in essence I'll need to jack the car, ask him to rev it and watch the pulley at the bottom for vibration. Is it possible to check this by hand? howling_mad fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Nov 15, 2015 |
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Nov 15, 2015 08:26
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Its a 21mm bolt. I've run into beater Miatas with it barely torqued. Bring a socket to check if it wiggles. A swivel head might be necessary to get between the radiator and intake. I would personally redo the timing belt job to make sure the shop loctited the bolts and used a fresh bolt and key for the keyway. If the rest of that car is nice, get some cash off for the short nose crank and save it for an engine down the line. Some never have an issue. Some grenade.
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Nov 15, 2015 08:53
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Laranzu posted:Its a 21mm bolt. I've run into beater Miatas with it barely torqued. Bring a socket to check if it wiggles. A swivel head might be necessary to get between the radiator and intake. Hmm, I don't have a swivel, I have small arms though. I'm guessing I can stick something up there. Alright good to know. I'll see what he has for documentation. If he has NO documentation on the belt, pump, etc. do I run from this? Obviously I'll be able to check the belt for cracks. Besides horrible wobble what else should be a DON'T BUY THIS situation?
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Nov 15, 2015 08:56
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Aside from normal used car stuff for a car in the north... Rocker rust. Check the bolts on the underside of the Fender near the rear of the front wheel wells. If they are rusty as hell there might be more issues. Look for bubbling paint in the area and pinched off lower drains. They are near the front and rear jack points. Fun part is it could be superficial. Mine had a rust hole in the fender, pinched drains, but solid rockers. Check the dash for cracks. Speedo for bouncing while moving (not deadly but awful to fix) At that price I'd want new heater hoses, CAS O ring (easy to do), Cam/Crank oil seals ( think he is referencing these in the ad) and no weird drivability issues. Just about everything is fixable if the price is right. Sounds like you're looking for turnkey though.
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Nov 15, 2015 09:10
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Laranzu posted:Aside from normal used car stuff for a car in the north... Thanks for the info! Well the price looks decent if he has documentation for what's in the ad. The color and factory hardtop are a nice touch as well. If everything looks good I was thinking of offering $3K and seeing what happens from there. I believe heater hoses and the CAS O ring are something I could tackle myself. I'm so-so on doing the timing belt job myself. However MN has a surprisingly large group of enthusiast so I could probably track someone down who knows what they're doing. Am I on the right track on the pulley issue though? If the location of the metal plate denoting timing is not in the original groove would that support that the pulley is slowly moving? If I notice a bit of wobble, is that a showstopper? Or is it more of a judgement call? The car will be stored (somewhere to be determined) for the winter so it's not as-if it's going to get driving for the next 6 months. Thanks again!
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Nov 15, 2015 09:18
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drat. Didn't see the hard top. Thats like $1000 right there. I'd almost count it separate. Like you're buying a $2500 car. All the wear for the crank/timing pulley happens where you can't really see it. So its entirely a judgement call. If you don't notice any timing issues or weird idle problems its *probably* fine. Normally the accessory belts keep enough tension on it that you won't be able to wobble it by hand. The timing belt is actually behind all that stuff. You won't be able to see it unless you pull the valve cover, or he is missing some of the plastic timing covers on the front. It looks a bit like this from the back, except normally on the crank side and not the pulley side. The side to side motion eats away at the metal keyway (This was the one with the bolt barely hand tightened)  Wobble would be a no go for me at $3000. Thats an engine replacement or a ghetto Loctite fix of the key way ASAP. No documentation of anything, but obvious signs of engine bits being cleaned or replaced and no other issues and I think $3000 with the hardtop is decent. Again, some grenade and some run happily forever.
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Nov 15, 2015 09:33
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Laranzu posted:drat. Didn't see the hard top. Thats like $1000 right there. I'd almost count it separate. Like you're buying a $2500 car. Yeah the hardtop has me excited, especially in the color. Thanks for all of your help. We'll see if a) I get a call and b) what I get as a reply to my email. My hope is that he has documentation from a decent shop, and that I can take a look at it tomorrow and see how things look. I'll report back!
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Nov 15, 2015 09:42
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Checked it out today, decided to pass.Mechanically it looked and felt good. Had documentation on recent belt and pump work. Was aware of SNC issues, and advised that mechanic was aware and didn't see any issues/torqued to correct spec. Car drove well, suspension was good. Transmission was a bit clacky, which may be how the NA and NBs were (I'm coming from an NC). However 2nd seemed a bit hard to get into, but got a bit better as it warmed up. Body was okay. Paint was decent, but there were definite scratches and dent. Rocker panel was rusted in a few spots, but nothing got through to the frame itself from a visual inspection. All in all I offered $3000 firm, he stuck to $3300, and that was that. I appreciate the help regardless!
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Nov 16, 2015 00:13
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Well. Mystery solved and I'm a goddamned idiot. For Friday's oil change, I drained the loving transmission and never the engine oil. So we ran an autocross with a dry transmission and twice as much engine oil. Just goes to show you these things are pretty reliable, considering it ran for some reason.
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Nov 16, 2015 01:15
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How in the world did you manage to do that
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Nov 16, 2015 01:28
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Nodoze posted:How in the world did you manage to do that 4am wakeup that day. I'll say it was that.
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Nov 16, 2015 01:31
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