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heh  thanks dude! always happy to helpHubis posted:How's this for a compressor? That is probably a good one (I have no experience with it unfortunately), and most likely is what the Chinese TC-20T type compressor is a clone of. If you search for Sparmax compressors, they are the company that make the iwata compressors, and you may be able to find a compressor just as good for a bit cheaper. This is the compressor I mention a couple posts above: http://www.amazon.com/Sparmax-Arism...+620+compressor I would wager it's pretty decent however I haven't reviewed it yet. Also don't forget that just because it's on Amazon doesn't mean it's FROM Amazon, there are shady sellers on Amazon too - check the reviews of the seller as well as the product. I would say anything iwata is going to be pretty good, though. e: so I don't make a new post, just wanted to post my review of the Citadel Air paints... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKttrwd53Fc This is only my 3rd painting video so it's not fantastic, definitely going to improve things (including not going off-script about dropper bottles vs pots!) but in case anyone was curious and hadn't seen anything about the paints yet, there ya go krushgroove fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Nov 9, 2015 |
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Nov 9, 2015 15:19
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So are none of you guys joining in on the November Hi-Mock group build? It was this thread that suggested it. The scale model thread has already started on some excellent submissions. hjp766 posted:Finished the Hi-Mock. Unkempt posted:Here we go.
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Nov 9, 2015 21:22
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Anyone who's considering buying a compressor, please make sure to get one with a tank. While the 'pulsing' thing is definitely overstated - or is something that only the old pancake compressors really suffered from - the constant on-off-on-off motor noise of a tankless compressor will slowly drive you insane. Even if you have an amazingly high tolerance for irritating noises, you'll quickly find it becomes distracting.
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Nov 9, 2015 21:54
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adamantium|wang posted:Plus you can just run it as a counts-as Wyvern. I got my mitts on a original Griffin literally weeks before they got squatted
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Nov 9, 2015 23:56
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Welp, my server is down, so no more pictures at the moment like I was planning. Ticket submitted. Maybe later, or maybe not until tomorrow. Edit: Server is hosed, they are trying to clone the drive before it completely fails, but the stupid box is so old (it has IDE drives) that they are using an old used drive as the target too (no other controllers on the MB). No more pictures until the server gets un-hosed, or replaced, and if it goes the replacement route, it will probably take me a while to rebuild the content since I am working the rest of the week with no time to spare. The Locator fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 02:07
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big_g posted:So are none of you guys joining in on the November Hi-Mock group build? It was this thread that suggested it. Thought about it, but have no idea where to get it and next to bugger-all time left in November for my terrible motivation issues to get it done, even if it arrives in time. I have a good idea for it and everything.
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Nov 10, 2015 18:33
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thespaceinvader posted:Thought about it, but have no idea where to get it and next to bugger-all time left in November for my terrible motivation issues to get it done, even if it arrives in time. It's on amazon
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Nov 10, 2015 18:41
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I normally post in the scale models thread as that's usually more my bag but have always read this thread since the first incarnation. I wanted to do something new and so I just bought a Tau Ghostkeel for fun and as a something different before my next historical model kit. It's actually a really nice kit.   
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Nov 10, 2015 22:30
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Man, I wish my primer (Army Painter white) looked that smooth. Mine looks way too gritty (probably just the "tooth" from the primer), and I can see the texture even after painting my basecoat on top. I'm really tempted to strip these guys and start over with a different brand of primer.
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Nov 10, 2015 23:11
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Avenging Dentist posted:Man, I wish my primer (Army Painter white) looked that smooth. Mine looks way too gritty (probably just the "tooth" from the primer), and I can see the texture even after painting my basecoat on top. I'm really tempted to strip these guys and start over with a different brand of primer. Join the Vallejo Surface Primer cult
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Nov 10, 2015 23:12
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I have never seen a white primer that wasn't INCREDIBLY finicky about temperature/humidity. The number of conditions under which I've gotten white primers to work well pales in comparison to the number of times I've sprayed the model and immediately tossed it into brake fluid because the primer came out fuzzy or crackled. I feel like it's easier to prime the model light grey, then just airbrush on a white undercoat in two layers.
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Nov 10, 2015 23:15
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signalnoise posted:Join the Vallejo Surface Primer cult Do they have a spray (excluding airbrushes, since I don't want to get into that right now)? I have VSP brush-on for doing touch-ups on my primer, but spray is easier (and, to be fair, easier to gently caress up). I was thinking about getting Tamiya grey primer. I guess the next step is to find a paint stripper that ideally won't gently caress up greenstuff/ProCreate/superglue. Any recommendations there? I'll probably go with Simple Green if no one has any better ideas. e: Ilor posted:I have never seen a white primer that wasn't INCREDIBLY finicky about temperature/humidity. Yeah, I've heard lots of people say that white primer is the worst of the bunch, with grey the best of the bunch. I have no real issue painting over a lightish grey, since I'll probably be putting down a midtone color as my basecoat anyway. For stuff that really needs a white undercoat, painting on a couple layers of white is fine by me. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 23:16
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Avenging Dentist posted:Man, I wish my primer (Army Painter white) looked that smooth. Mine looks way too gritty (probably just the "tooth" from the primer), and I can see the texture even after painting my basecoat on top. I'm really tempted to strip these guys and start over with a different brand of primer. Everyone should just always use Tamiya fine surface grey primer for everything. I can't remember the last kit I used a different primer on regardless of the final colouring.
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Nov 10, 2015 23:44
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If you're in the uk I find the halfords grey primer is amazing, as is there white primer
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Nov 11, 2015 00:07
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gilljoy posted:If you're in the uk I find the halfords grey primer is amazing, as is there white primer Their grey is really good (I've had one bad experience on a windy day), and their matte black spray, despite not being a primer, is the smoothest thing ever. I've had some issues with their white primer but it is by far the least temperamental I've used. e: also krushgroove because I keep forgetting to email you I'll just post here: I was planning to use the airbrush mostly for basecoating my Tau infantry and vehicles to start with, but also for some space marines (think the forgeworld aloha legion in terms of fades), as well as for the base colour on some Dropfleet Commander ships later (using masking tape for lines the likes of something from Homeworld). Was going to go with this bundle as it seems a pretty good price, but I'm not sure I'd be able to do fine work down the line on infantry sized stuff with a 105. ijyt fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Nov 11, 2015 |
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Nov 11, 2015 00:14
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big_g posted:Everyone should just always use Tamiya fine surface grey primer for everything. I can't remember the last kit I used a different primer on regardless of the final colouring. I have heard good things about this primer. I assume you use the spray can and not an airbrush-based solution?
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Nov 11, 2015 00:37
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Yo, the Ghostkeel looks really good when it's not photographed by a Citadel lady/dude. Whoa, really shows up on the thighs and such, really amazing. w00tmonger posted:Cross post from Valhalla No one else answered the call, I sure did, it's so fuckin'  
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Nov 11, 2015 01:19
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Avenging Dentist posted:I have heard good things about this primer. I assume you use the spray can and not an airbrush-based solution? Yes I use it straight out of the rattle can. Some people complain it's more expensive than then cheap primers but I swear by it.
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Nov 11, 2015 11:44
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Airbrush goons, is http://www.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=11484 a decent one for a beginner? I'm not looking to do anything fancy, just use it for quickly applying base coats to larger minis and terrain.
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Nov 11, 2015 13:12
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ijyt posted:e: also krushgroove because I keep forgetting to email you I'll just post here: I was planning to use the airbrush mostly for basecoating my Tau infantry and vehicles to start with, but also for some space marines (think the forgeworld aloha legion in terms of fades), as well as for the base colour on some Dropfleet Commander ships later (using masking tape for lines the likes of something from Homeworld). The bigger brother of that compressor is really really good, so I don't see why that one would be bad or negative really. Zark the Damned posted:Airbrush goons, is http://www.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=11484 a decent one for a beginner? I'm not looking to do anything fancy, just use it for quickly applying base coats to larger minis and terrain. Eh...that compressor will pump out 15 or maybe 20psi on a good day - ideally you want up to 25-30psi for general model work, 15-20 is more for detail work and unthinned primer won't spray very well at those pressures. For detail work and thinned paints that compressor will probably be OK, but most model airbrush noobs will do best learning on bigger tanks or buildings first. If you have the space see if you can find a used shop compressor or something like that on Gumtree, Craigslist or ebay locally. e: I should clarify I reviewed one of the iwata compressors (this one) that that page mentions at the start of my airbrushing journey. It won't spray unthinned paints hardly at all, but if you prime with Halfords or Tamiya can primer and then do your basecoating on top of that with this, you'll actually probably be fine. Also you'll have to get used to turning on the compressor ONLY for the moments that you're painting - if you leave it pumping for 10 minutes or so you have to let it cool down for half an hour. Then as you get more experience and save up the cash get a real compressor. further e: for a little more money (£95) you can get this as a starter compressor, this Beasts of War unboxing isn't much of a review but it's a small travel or backup compressor that might work OK but only at its most powerful setting does it spray at 28psi, which is what I spray at for priming (unthinned primer through a Badger 105, which has a 0.4mm needle, which is pretty big for a hobby/model airbrush). This is the same compressor. I have this compressor which is £125, a bit bigger and should be more powerful, and comes with a shut-off valve, I'll be doing a video/blog review of it soon - here is the link for that one. These are both tabletop models that should be an OK starter compressor until you save up for a better one with a tank, they're better as travel/loaner/backup compressors. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Nov 11, 2015 |
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Nov 11, 2015 14:13
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I spray surface primer unthinned at 22 psi with my Sotar. That stuff should go through most anything at 20+ psi. I used to spray at about 22 psi, dropping down to 12-15 for fine detail work, but nowadays I don't do a ton of airbrushing. You still want a compressor that'll pump out at least 30-35 psi though. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Nov 11, 2015 |
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Nov 11, 2015 16:40
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Yeah the more power the better, especially when you can crank up the pressure and blast out a clog so you can finish a job really quick (and then worry about cleaning the airbrush). Also the Vallejo Surface Primer is thinner than the Badger Stynlrez primer, but I have successfully primed models with Stynlrez through a Renegade Krome (which has the same needle size as the Sotar), but I've switched back to priming that unthinned and through the 105, so I need more pressure. So yeah I already need to go to the OP and add more stuff to the compressor section! But right now the airbrush section is way more fleshed out than it was a week ago. Once I get my airbrushing book back from my friend I'll have more pictures of the various faults and solutions, the book is old but the troubleshooting info hasn't changed really.
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Nov 11, 2015 16:57
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Anyone have any tips on magnetizing old pewter GW Space Marine Terminators? Not the SUPER old one piece ones, but the ones with arms you can swap. I want to magnetize them, but I have heard various accounts of the pewter arms not being held up by the usual magnets due to weight concerns.
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Nov 11, 2015 17:50
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Gentleman Blogger posted:Anyone have any tips on magnetizing old pewter GW Space Marine Terminators? Not the SUPER old one piece ones, but the ones with arms you can swap. I want to magnetize them, but I have heard various accounts of the pewter arms not being held up by the usual magnets due to weight concerns. don't know about those in particular, but when I've been magnetizing my PP stuff, I add a brass rod right next to the magnet to keep things oriented, maybe do that. I will recommend on vertical thigns to place the rod above the magnet, and not below them though 
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Nov 11, 2015 17:53
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Speaking of airbrushes, the badger 105 keeps dropping in price. It's under 70 bucks now on Amazon. BUY BUY BUY
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Nov 11, 2015 18:04
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ijyt posted:Their grey is really good (I've had one bad experience on a windy day), and their matte black spray, despite not being a primer, is the smoothest thing ever. I have the Sparmax 610H and it is a wonderful thing.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:04
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I have the Sparmax TC-620x, and it is super high quality. I was really impressed by it when i got it, as it was a giant improvement from my prior compressors. I originally bought a tankless one from Airbrush Depot, which i burned out in less than a year. Literally. One time i used it for three hours or so and burnt my hand picking it up.... it never worked after that day. Then, i went the opposite direction and bought a twenty gallon tanked shop compressor. It worked great but was so loud that i would jump out of my chair when it kicked on. I also couldn't paint at night with it. It now lives in the garage and pumps up my tires or powers an air nailer. I went with the Sparmax and hope i never have to buy another one.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:29
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Thanks for the replies, you guys are great. If I bumped up to the bundle with the 620x and Krome I'm guessing the Krome itself wouldn't be too suitable for basecoating? It does come with a .021 and 0.33mm needle, but those both seem pretty narrow? I'm so unclear with this and I'm sorry for all these basic questions.
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Nov 11, 2015 20:05
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These basic questions are good info. I'm sort of in a similar boat as you, with a cheap hand-me-down compressor and airbrush that I'm getting around to trying to figure out.
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Nov 11, 2015 20:12
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Keep in mind the 620x alone is the price of the bundle you posted originally... It's a good, no great compressor, but it has 2 outputs, 2 hoses and you're only getting one airbrush. When I used mine I still only used one hose and a quick release to swap between airbrushes. As for the Krome, that's a great airbrush also, and actually I got that before I got the Patriot, it just depends what you're planning to paint first. The Patriot is easier to work with because the nozzle is bigger and the parts are bigger. In short, I think you might be best served with the first bundle you looked at.
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Nov 11, 2015 21:06
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krushgroove posted:In short, I think you might be best served with the first bundle you looked at. I agree completely. I use my 105 the most out of my three airbrushes just because it is so easy to work with. It is easy to clean, and it doesn't get gunked up as much. You can even get replacement needles or nozzles quickly from either Amazon or Michael's (dont forget your Internet coupon) . I was simply trying to chime in on how great sparmax is.
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Nov 11, 2015 21:33
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Thanks guys, along with some hobbyzone paint racks and a new desk, I know what I'm getting with my christmas bonus!
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Nov 11, 2015 21:57
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ijyt posted:Thanks guys, along with some hobbyzone paint racks and a new desk, I know what I'm getting with my christmas bonus! Hell yeah Hobbyzone rules. Here's my current setup, normally hidden in my closet, but I can take individual modules out into my work area depending on what I'm working on at the time:  I also have one of their painting tables, but that's less interesting to look at.
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Nov 11, 2015 23:52
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Avenging Dentist posted:Hell yeah Hobbyzone rules. Here's my current setup, normally hidden in my closet, but I can take individual modules out into my work area depending on what I'm working on at the time: drat, so clean
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Nov 12, 2015 00:18
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Krome's are pretty good but I'm a big fan of the Paasche Talon when it comes to workhorse airbrushes. As far as cheapon brushes go if you just want to basecoat or whatever, I've had good experiences with Veda airbrushes, which are usually clones of the Paasche/Patriot.
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Nov 12, 2015 01:28
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Avenging Dentist posted:Hell yeah Hobbyzone rules. Here's my current setup, normally hidden in my closet, but I can take individual modules out into my work area depending on what I'm working on at the time: Edit: Not at $30+ shipping to the US.  I'll figure something else out.
Safety Factor fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Nov 12, 2015 |
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Nov 12, 2015 01:32
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Safety Factor posted:I think I need something like this in my life. Yeah, shipping is brutal. But the units themselves are actually fairly cheap, so I didn't mind too much. Another cool feature with them is that they all attach magnetically. They line up really well, too (the small gap between them near the bottom middle is because the shelf it's sitting on is warped).
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Nov 12, 2015 04:35
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Safety Factor posted:I think I need something like this in my life. Think outside the box. It might have been in this thread, or the scale modeling thread, or somewhere else entirely, but someone mentioned lipstick display racks. Behold, less than $30 total on Amazon (and Prime eligible so no shipping for me):  I still want to get a nice setup of those Hobbyzone things at some point for all the rest of my tools and crap, but short term for the painting stuff, this works great.
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Nov 12, 2015 04:44
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The Locator posted:Think outside the box. It might have been in this thread, or the scale modeling thread, or somewhere else entirely, but someone mentioned lipstick display racks. Come to think of it, I probably got the same rack you have there. I should be safe.
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Nov 12, 2015 04:51
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Hobbyzone stuff owns, i've just got their large paint stand in, and i'll pick up a pro paint station today (and their mini dice tower is cute) click image for large I'm reposting this picture, not to get praise, but to get critics. Other than the errant splats of paint i've noticed, what else is lacking/could be improved on this? it's my own best effort to date, but i'll be entering it into a paint/model showcase at the FLGS and i'd like to present the very best.
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Nov 12, 2015 07:47
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