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Yinzer posted:Just curious if any of you bought a Panther in order to keep it on the road as long as possible. Honestly? I bought my CVPI in 2010 with ~140k miles. 5 years later, it's sitting at 202k and still going strong with only minor issues and a few mechanical replacement bits. I've got a new radiator, new power steering pump, new battery, and a few other smaller engine bits that wore out with age and it's currently showing no real signs of stopping. The worst i'm dealing with now is the fact that it seems to leak / use oil, but it's not horribly bad considering the mileage. Keep up the maintenance and that car will likely outlive you 
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Jul 22, 2015 02:52
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Yinzer posted:Just curious if any of you bought a Panther in order to keep it on the road as long as possible.
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Jul 22, 2015 03:28
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Well that's the problem, I don't have a garage, but I don't plan on driving it in the snow so I shouldn't have to worry much about road salt (just snow cover). I just wonder how much humidity has an affect on cars, I know my Tacoma sounds like a rickety old ship if it gets really humid. But yeah I plan on keeping on top of the maintenance for sure. I hope I can drive it for a long long time. I've tried looking for a garage for rent but they aren't deep enough for the Vic.
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Jul 22, 2015 12:42
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Yinzer posted:I know my Tacoma sounds like a rickety old ship if it gets really humid. If weather is generally humid, I think I'd still put an anti-rust treatment. For example, parking over grass all the time (in humid weather) is enough to make the car rust from under and out. I usually apply Krown anti-rust but I don't know what you guys have in the US.
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Jul 22, 2015 13:40
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geforce posted:If weather is generally humid, I think I'd still put an anti-rust treatment. For example, parking over grass all the time (in humid weather) is enough to make the car rust from under and out. There's a guy locally that does it, his own product but doesn't use a rubber compound. As long as he ain't drilling holes. But he wants like 400-600 dollars to do the job.
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Jul 22, 2015 16:25
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Speaking as a mechanic: gently caress undercoatings, they turn everything under the car into a pain in the rear end. Speaking as the owner of a 26-year old Volvo in a salt state: a well-done undercoating is loving great, everybody get one. Gotta keep a spraycan of it on hand though, always touch it up if you gently caress it up. What rust I do have is from PO tool scuffs and their parts scraping things during work. 
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Jul 22, 2015 16:40
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Yinzer posted:Did you ever get this fixed? No. I hit all the bushings etc with red spray grease, still squeaking. I even replaced the rear shocks...I thought the passenger side was the culprit, but no dice. It goes away when it rains or if the car is damp, so it has to be something rubbing somewhere. I haven't had time to investigate further.
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Jul 25, 2015 18:08
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geforce posted:Seems like it is the horizontal control arms. How many miles on your car? Mine only has 46k so I'd be surprised if the bushings are worn to metal already.
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Jul 25, 2015 18:11
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Yinzer posted:Just curious if any of you bought a Panther in order to keep it on the road as long as possible. My 98 marquis was left to die with 248k on it. The video that Monkeynutz posted on the previous page is my car, and gives you a pretty good idea of the kind of condition it was in by then Bought the car with 100k on it and a blown motor, swapped in a 60k motor, rebuilt the trans after an installation tragedy and it pretty much lived the next 5 years without any real problems. In the end, it started having extremely weird electrical problems. I chased bad grounds around for a while, and then it eventually became a giant disaster and I just gave up and moved on. I did have to pull the dash 4 times to replace bad heater cores, but that was the fault of lovely overseas cores, not the car. Got that job down to like 1.5h. It was a horrible grandma car with a blue interior, but god drat I loved that thing. It was so much fun in the winter, and it lived through my whole teenager moron years of driving, a couple roadtrips and family members driving it while I was at college.
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Jul 26, 2015 01:13
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djhaloeight posted:No. I hit all the bushings etc with red spray grease, still squeaking. I even replaced the rear shocks...I thought the passenger side was the culprit, but no dice. It goes away when it rains or if the car is damp, so it has to be something rubbing somewhere. I haven't had time to investigate further. Well FWIW I took mine to my mechanic, and it was the hood latch. Greased it up and no more squeak. But I did a car wash today and the squeak came back! loving hell.
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Jul 26, 2015 01:52
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Yinzer posted:Well FWIW I took mine to my mechanic, and it was the hood latch. Greased it up and no more squeak. Well it IS apparently the bushings. I soaked the rear upper and lower control arm bushings down on the passenger side with WD-40 after work and the squeak is gone. I think it was the upper ones specifically.
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Jul 26, 2015 13:15
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Yinzer posted:Well FWIW I took mine to my mechanic, and it was the hood latch. Greased it up and no more squeak. I had/have the same issue with mine, the rubber bump-stops the hood rests on slowly wiggle and twist such that they end up too low and it causes it to squeak when i hit bumps or get any kind of body flex. I tried greasing it but like you it eventually wears off. My most recent fix was to remove the stops, get a couple of nuts and thread them onto the shaft, reinstall the stops, and then tighten the nuts down to keep them from sinking on their own. That seems to hold pretty well but occasionally needs to be readjusted. (last time for me was 6 months ago) Additionally: Has anyone that has a police auction P71 tried replacing the head unit or speakers, and did you notice a significant difference? As far as I can tell my speakers are stock and I have the plain 4 channel AM/FM stereo unit. Its not awful sound quality but its definitely not great. Marux fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Aug 28, 2015 |
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Aug 28, 2015 05:24
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Got my Mustang/Marauder wheels on, with some new rubber. Sumitomo HTR A/S P02, 235-50/18 size. I dig 'em. Just need to replace the Mustang pony center caps with Ford caps.
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Sep 1, 2015 01:17
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As a Marauder owner, I recommend that you remove the center caps and do sex moves on the wheels. Love dem wheels
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Sep 9, 2015 00:12
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Just gonna leave this here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nG78uv56rI
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Sep 16, 2015 20:22
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Welp, looks like my LCM has finally completely crapped out. No headlights, no lights at all. Well, the turn signals work intermittently. The relay in the LCM clicks constantly when the headlight switch is turned on. It's hard to troubleshoot because the battery has somehow died over the day and a half since the lights stopped working. I tried to start the car to see if that changed anything and nothing happened. Also when I took my multimeter out to verify that it was the battery and not, say, the ignition switch, the meter crapped out the instant I applied it to the battery. Maybe the car is just cursed.
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Sep 18, 2015 02:48
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Welp, looks like my LCM has finally completely crapped out. No headlights, no lights at all. Well, the turn signals work intermittently. The relay in the LCM clicks constantly when the headlight switch is turned on. Hey I just came in here to bitch about the exact same problem! I want to say that ford has issued some kind of recall on the LCM and you can get this replaced for free but with my ford dealings in the past that might be wishful thinking. One solution I've found to work quite well is to give the dash a good kick right where the LCM is (18" up from the pedals), I've been doing this for weeks now and the lights kick on every single time. Seriously though the LCM is a huge problem with these cars, why it doesn't just bypass into manual headlight mode when it fails is beyond me. So first step is to kick it, if the headlights come on it's the LCM and you should bitch at your local dealer and see if you can get a free replacement out of them. If not try ebay and amazon, there are rebuilt LCMs (it's a loving $10 relay that causes the problem) for way less than the $600 that the part actually costs from Ford. There is also a bypass kit I've seen, it's $75. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-599-200-Lighting-Control-Solution/dp/B0049DSVGY For now I just turn the key and kick the dash and it seems to work OK, it's a lovely solution but I just paid a bunch of money to rebuild the front suspension on my Grand Marquis, I'm too broke after that to go chasing down this problem. Finally as a pro-tip, you can hold your high beams if you NEED to get home and it's dark, just pull back on the left stalk and keep pressure on it so you're not driving blind.
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Sep 18, 2015 06:05
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Huggable Bear King posted:Hey I just came in here to bitch about the exact same problem! It is literally just an under-specced relay in the module. There are folks who have desoldered the relay, soldered in leads, and just used a standard Bosch-style socket relay external to the LCM. The Dorman part is interesting. It's pretty obviously a pass-through that breaks out the headlight relay into their module, accomplishing the same thing with a plug and play solution. Hadn't seen that one before. My LCM is fine (the later models seem to be a bit more reliable), but I need to intercept the turn signal leads to add an external LED-compatible flasher, since that's built in to the LCM as well. Fortunately, it's as easy as snipping two wires and just running them to the aftermarket flasher instead.
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Sep 18, 2015 17:47
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Darchangel posted:
Interesting, I guess if I had more time to mess around with this/trusted my PCB soldering skills more I'd probably just replace the relay. My problem is it's a pain in the rear end to even to get to the stupid thing. Taking it apart and diagnosing it is a waste of time unless you're pretty skilled with electronics. I'd rather spend an hour doing this and just replace it but it's annoying. I don't know I can't complain about my panther too much, it's stupid easy to fix and it's never really left me stranded or anything. Plus its like a 12 year old car so whatever, stuff is going to break. The AC system was leaking and it turned out to just be the evaporator, which was a pretty cheap part.
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Sep 19, 2015 04:06
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So, weird issues abound with my '01 P71. Been noticing that it seems to be losing or using coolant somewhat regularly. I added more today, and waited a bit to see if there were any noticeable leaks. Sure enough, after a while I spotted a drip from the front of the motor. Got down and crawled underneath, and the coolant appeared to be dripping from... the front of the oil pan  Obviously that's probably just where it ended up collecting after leaking from wherever, but that's still a weird rear end spot for it to collect and drip from. I'm just wondering where the poo poo the actual leak could be now. Doesn't appear to be running down around the pulleys or anything, and I didn't notice any wetness near the intake or valve covers or anywhere else obvious. This car gets weirder and weirder.
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Sep 20, 2015 22:02
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Weep hole?
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Sep 20, 2015 23:01
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I'm honestly not sure. Whatever it is, it's losing it at a decent rate. It's always at the very bottom of the reservoir and I have to add plenty to get it back up to the Cold Fill line. I may have to try and jack it up at some point and crawl under there with a flashlight to see if I can spot the source. Funny thing is, it's not overheating. It gets up to halfway on the temp gauge, the fans kick on, and it stays at halfway or drops depending on speed. Seems to cool better at lower speeds, oddly enough. The only time it's ever gotten to the overheating point was when my old radiator poo poo itself and I lost all my coolant on the 10 mile drive from my parents' and my place, and luckily it was only at the top of the temp gauge for a minute at best as I limped it the very last couple hundred feet to my house.
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Sep 21, 2015 00:27
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Marux posted:Additionally: Has anyone that has a police auction P71 tried replacing the head unit or speakers, and did you notice a significant difference? As far as I can tell my speakers are stock and I have the plain 4 channel AM/FM stereo unit. Its not awful sound quality but its definitely not great. I'd have to look up what head unit the P71 uses, cause I know the stock head unit in my Sport is from Alpine which has enough power to drive aftermarket speakers.
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Oct 4, 2015 17:10
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T1g4h posted:I'm honestly not sure. Whatever it is, it's losing it at a decent rate. It's always at the very bottom of the reservoir and I have to add plenty to get it back up to the Cold Fill line. I may have to try and jack it up at some point and crawl under there with a flashlight to see if I can spot the source. The very first place I would check is the intake manifold. It has plastic coolant passages that crack with time and heat cycles...ask me how I know. It's a pretty dumb design. There is a coolant crossover on the front of the manifold, and a plastic connection near the back of the engine. I had the connection at the back crack and weep coolant into one of my spark plug wells, causing a misfire. Dorman makes a replacement that has a metal crossover in the front, it's common enough that my Advanced Auto had one in stock when I needed it. e: http://www.autozone.com/1/products/74782-intake-manifold-dorman-615-175.html You can see the metal coolant crossover in the first picture, it's where the thermostat goes. Dellikose fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Oct 5, 2015 |
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Oct 5, 2015 01:13
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Yinzer posted:Well that's the problem, I don't have a garage, but I don't plan on driving it in the snow so I shouldn't have to worry much about road salt (just snow cover). I just wonder how much humidity has an affect on cars, I know my Tacoma sounds like a rickety old ship if it gets really humid. If you spray fluid film as an undercoating late fall and spring, your car will be almost rust proof. Its used commercially in high corrosion environments (marine, salting snow plows etc). It's a much better solution than tar/rubber like undercoats that crack and hold in salty moisture.
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Oct 5, 2015 01:28
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Huggable Bear King posted:Finally as a pro-tip, you can hold your high beams if you NEED to get home and it's dark, just pull back on the left stalk and keep pressure on it so you're not driving blind. Yeah, that worked for awhile, but even that had crapped out at the time of my last post. I talked my parents into buying me a replacement from Amazon. And then yesterday I got a letter from Ford to remind me of Customer Satisfaction Program 14N01. So if your lighting module craps out, call your local Ford dealer and get it fixed for free. I kinda want to pop the broken one back in, get it replaced under the CSP, and have a spare/try to return the one I bought. Or sell the spare on Amazon/eBay, I guess. Maybe somebody would buy it, but apparently the letter was sent based on registration/title records, so maybe everybody knows about it. On the other hand, maybe there's somebody needing one with over 250,000 miles on a car that has sentimental value. Though I seem to recall hearing of a loophole for them to refuse this sort of extended-warranty work on fleet cars sold out of service -- maybe something about the cop car conversion/unconversion voiding the warranty, or maybe just fleet warranties not transferring? Eh, I suppose it's worth a try.
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Oct 24, 2015 01:36
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For anyone thinking of buying a Crown Vic as a beater, 4 years ago I won a govdeals.com 2006 P71 after bidding buzzed the night before. It had 130K miles on it. I paid $2200 as it was an Arkansas highway patrol car and very clean. Other than normal maintenance, replacing a valve cover seal and tires I have done nothing much to it after 35K miles. I also pretty much speed when I want on the highway as cops just waive at me. About a week ago, a delivery truck backed over it. Insurance paid me $3559 for it after their body shop estimate came back a little higher than that. I got to keep the car with no title impact. $500 worth of junkyard hood, fender, and bumper support and including a few new parts off ebay and a quart of paint, clear and hardener and it looks better than it did pre-accident. I now have the car, for free, and about $800 extra bucks in my pocket. These cars are lowest cost of ownership in their class. Plus I can leave the doors to the house unlocked because everyone thinks a cop lives here. I could afford "better" and I do get a little ribbing from friends sometime (IDGAF) but my goal of finding the cheapest car to drive has been attained.
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Nov 12, 2015 00:40
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I've been on a series of Jeep Cherokees as winter beaters, but posts like yours make me want to grab a CVPI for a few winters.
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Nov 12, 2015 16:08
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I fully intend to sell my e30 in the next year or so and get a 2003+ P71 because of those type of posts. I already have a small, impractical car (Fiero), and it'd be nice to have a huge RWD couch with four doors and a v8.
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Nov 13, 2015 03:07
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boxen posted:I fully intend to sell my e30 in the next year or so and get a 2003+ P71 because of those type of posts. I already have a small, impractical car (Fiero), and it'd be nice to have a huge RWD couch with four doors and a v8. One of us, one of us, one of us...
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Nov 13, 2015 08:16
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T1g4h posted:One of us, one of us, one of us... I constantly think about buying a CV. Hell for what I'd get out of selling the MS6 I could get a nice CV and a decent Jeep to beat around in during the winter.
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Nov 13, 2015 09:01
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i love my Grand Marquis but goddamn i am not looking forward to another RWD winter
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Nov 13, 2015 09:30
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Rhyno posted:I constantly think about buying a CV. Hell for what I'd get out of selling the MS6 I could get a nice CV and a decent Jeep to beat around in during the winter. ONE OF US. Everyone needs to own at least one Panther at some point, i'm convinced. Nostalgia4Butts posted:i love my Grand Marquis but goddamn i am not looking forward to another RWD winter I'm actually looking forward to it, oddly. There's something incredibly satisfying about having a RWD V8 in the snow 
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Nov 13, 2015 09:41
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On the other hand my 2000 Marquis with 80k has its torque converter on the way out with it slipping after it kicks down into overdrive. And it seems to burn through oil, as I don't see any leaks but it's disappearing somewhere. It's also less comfortable and less economical than a friend's Avalon of a similar year. I regret getting this car.
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Nov 15, 2015 06:52
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How did you manage to find a Grand Marquis that's less comfortable than anything? Did the PO reupholster the seats in burlap?
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Nov 15, 2015 10:51
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It handles like a boat but it isn't a plush ride, and it really isn't that quiet on the inside at highway speeds.
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Nov 15, 2015 15:29
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So this is kind of dumb, but one of the corner light covers just...fell off...of my Marauder. Does it just pop back on? I tried to manhandle it back on in the rain but was close to cracking, so I held off.
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Nov 16, 2015 03:27
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Sunshine Mix posted:So this is kind of dumb, but one of the corner light covers just...fell off...of my Marauder. Does it just pop back on? I tried to manhandle it back on in the rain but was close to cracking, so I held off. No. It's part of the corner light assembly IIRC. So basically it became un-plastic-welded from the back. Clean it up and use a nice thin bead of superglue all around it. You may want to try to silicone seal it afterwards if you find you are picking up moisture inside.
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Nov 16, 2015 03:43
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Motronic posted:No. It's part of the corner light assembly IIRC. So basically it became un-plastic-welded from the back. Looks like you're right; thanks, I'll give that a try.
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Nov 17, 2015 01:20
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Hey guys. Any tip to spot which coils / spark plug are dying? I've changed one that was reported by the computer (with my ODB2 dongle) and it helped with the engine cold idle tremendously, but it still not as it was before. I'd like to avoid spending 300+$ to change all the remaining coils/spark plugs. I don't mind taking the time to test them individually, but I'm not sure how to do that. Thanks
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Dec 12, 2015 06:52
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