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Frobbe posted:Hobbyzone stuff owns, i've just got their large paint stand in, and i'll pick up a pro paint station today (and their mini dice tower is cute) If you want superserious critique, a few other views would be good. When stuff looks overall really nice it's hard to tell what's an issue and what's just an artifact of the angle/exact picture.
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Nov 12, 2015 08:05
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Frobbe posted:Hobbyzone stuff owns, i've just got their large paint stand in, and i'll pick up a pro paint station today (and their mini dice tower is cute) It's a pretty well painted model considering how zoomed in everything is, so don't take my feedback the hard way please  I think that most of your colors are a little flat and lack depth. I'm guessing you undercoat, wash, and then paint the topcoat back on with some edge highlights. You need to add more layers of different colors to give richness of color. The orange is pretty good, but the copper and metal isn't. For the axe head for example you could basecoat a tin color, then paint a layer of copper, mix some gold into the copper for a 3rd layer (covering less an less then the previous layer), and then finally hit all the edges with silver. I would also focous on painting the lips on raised surfaces. The segments of the back armor for example aren't neat. Again, this is solid painting dude, so don't take this too hard. I just think you're ready to level up your painting even more.
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Nov 12, 2015 08:15
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Frobbe posted:I'm reposting this picture, not to get praise, but to get critics. Other than the errant splats of paint i've noticed, what else is lacking/could be improved on this? it's my own best effort to date, but i'll be entering it into a paint/model showcase at the FLGS and i'd like to present the very best. Overall, I think it looks good. Definitely above-average for the tabletop. Here's some stuff you can improve:
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Nov 12, 2015 08:18
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Felime posted:If you want superserious critique, a few other views would be good. When stuff looks overall really nice it's hard to tell what's an issue and what's just an artifact of the angle/exact picture. here's the only other angle i've got https://www.dropbox.com/sc/mg7776m8widy7j1/AACBp_bTzDvI204PRYYWWsvAa i'll clean up my paint splats and take a bunch more pics with something better than a cellphone cam BULBASAUR posted:It's a pretty well painted model considering how zoomed in everything is, so don't take my feedback the hard way please it's exactly what i asked for, so i'm not exactly going to take it hard when i get the critique i asked for i'll experiment with layering paint somewhere else and apply it to this dude once i'm confident in that process Avenging Dentist posted:Overall, I think it looks good. Definitely above-average for the tabletop. Here's some stuff you can improve: the hand might look better from the other angle i linked up top, i'll give the skull some more shade, since i agree with you on that I haven't even touched the idea of freehanding borders on the robe or even applying decal transfers. i might find something cool to put on him! also thanks all of you. Frobbe fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Nov 12, 2015 |
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Nov 12, 2015 08:24
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Frobbe posted:the hand might look better from the other angle i linked up top, i'll give the skull some more shade, since i agree with you on that I think it could still use a little more shading, especially between the fingers, and I'd personally give the hand a little bit less of a greenish hue, but the latter is mostly a matter of taste.
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Nov 12, 2015 08:30
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Frobbe posted:here's the only other angle i've got https://www.dropbox.com/sc/mg7776m8widy7j1/AACBp_bTzDvI204PRYYWWsvAa. i'll clean up my paint splats and take a bunch more pics with something better than a cellphone cam You can also experiment with using different coloured washes - I.e. don't just wash gold with sepia/brown or silver with black. Try some green/blue/purple/red in the mix and it will really make your metallics richer and more varied. You don't even have to use the same mix everywhere, vary the tone to make certain areas more or less obvious. For example blues and greens soften the area and make it disappear.
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Nov 12, 2015 09:34
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US Goons: today through Saturday Michael's is running a 40% off one item sale. I checked and yes it includes their airbrush and compressors.
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Nov 12, 2015 15:37
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Where do you guys get corks for holding foot-pinned minis while working on them? And what do you get?
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Nov 12, 2015 17:57
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signalnoise posted:Where do you guys get corks for holding foot-pinned minis while working on them? And what do you get? I got a bunch of these: http://www.bangorcork.com/product/9-cork-stopper
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Nov 12, 2015 17:58
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Here are some Trollblood Highwaymen I just finished. They are cool models but pretty annoyingly detailed. I also painted Braylen Wanderheart, who is a solo highwayman model that makes them even better if she's nearby.     Thanks for looking, k bye
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Nov 12, 2015 18:01
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signalnoise posted:Where do you guys get corks for holding foot-pinned minis while working on them? And what do you get? I went to micheals and bought a bag of them, but I just tear them up to make rock formations. You could also try saving them from liquor and or wine bottles
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Nov 12, 2015 18:06
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signalnoise posted:Where do you guys get corks for holding foot-pinned minis while working on them? And what do you get? any brewing supplies store should have various sizes
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Nov 12, 2015 18:17
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signalnoise posted:Where do you guys get corks for holding foot-pinned minis while working on them? And what do you get? Drink a poo poo load of wine
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Nov 12, 2015 18:38
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signalnoise posted:Where do you guys get corks for holding foot-pinned minis while working on them? And what do you get? I ordered a bag of 50 used corks from France on ebay. Springfield Fatts posted:US Goons: today through Saturday Michael's is running a 40% off one item sale. I checked and yes it includes their airbrush and compressors. Dammit, I'm in Texas (coming from the UK) all next week but I'm going to miss this sale. Michael's is one of the places I'm planning to hit to pick up hobby stuff!
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Nov 12, 2015 19:23
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Hixson posted:Drink a poo poo load of wine
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Nov 12, 2015 19:43
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krushgroove posted:Dammit, I'm in Texas (coming from the UK) all next week but I'm going to miss this sale. Michael's is one of the places I'm planning to hit to pick up hobby stuff!
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Nov 12, 2015 20:22
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I'll see if San Antonio has one of those. I'm also going to be hitting Target for X-Wing, comic book shops for Sandman and Best Buy for CDs, so if anything is left over I'm going to get a bunch of craft stuff that will just be cheaper than in the UK.
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Nov 12, 2015 20:41
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Springfield Fatts posted:US Goons: today through Saturday Michael's is running a 40% off one item sale. I checked and yes it includes their airbrush and compressors. This runs pretty much 365 days a year if you need some varnish or something.
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Nov 12, 2015 20:51
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Frobbe posted:it's exactly what i asked for, so i'm not exactly going to take it hard when i get the critique i asked for
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Nov 12, 2015 23:41
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This may sound silly, but does anyone have a line on 28mm mohawks - the hair style, not the Native Americans. Google is just pulling up the latter.
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Nov 12, 2015 23:44
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Image dump incoming.... More stuff from Modelzona 2015. I am also posting different pictures of models rather than figures in the scale model thread in DIY and Hobbies. Models (Dioramas, so some figure painting there too) - http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3148869&pagenumber=171#post452651924 More to come in the scale model thread over the next few days. Figures:                      Miniatures:       Warhammer?      Busts (no, not that kind):    A cat. On a post.  And... a dinosaur.  
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Nov 13, 2015 02:08
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So, I am looking to rebase my 40k army and have the Dragonforge Sanctuary bases coming soon. I'd like to paint them to look like white marble or stone and I was wondering what would be the best method using GW paints.
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Nov 13, 2015 02:31
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The Locator posted:Image dump incoming....
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Nov 13, 2015 03:09
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Uroboros posted:So, I am looking to rebase my 40k army and have the Dragonforge Sanctuary bases coming soon. I'd like to paint them to look like white marble or stone and I was wondering what would be the best method using GW paints. Marble is real hard. For stone the best thing you can do is vary the tones on the tiles. I like to do a grey base coat followed by some light grey and white drybrushing, then I'll use a very very light wash on random tiles to make them different shades of blue/red/brown tinted. While in real life there are many cathedrals and castles with uniform flooring, we're painting miniatures and art follows different rules. Using small tonal variance in the stones will break up the otherwise large amounts of plain color they provide. You can obviously use different techniques to do this as well, if you wanted to, for instance, make it look like there was lava/blood/dirty water flowing in between the cracks of the tiles that would also provide a good color splash. I'd also recommend picking up some dark green modelling turf from your local hobby shop/model railroad place/Michaels/Hobby Lobby and using it to do small spots of moss on the tiles, lots and lots of tiles can look pretty flat and the moss will give it a little bit of a 3D element.
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Nov 13, 2015 04:00
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The Locator posted:And... a dinosaur. I kind of want to know what model this is. I'm in the middle of kitbashing a T-Rex model and having a few other larger models for my army for some variation would be nice.
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Nov 13, 2015 04:02
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Ilor posted:About the only thing I'd suggest over and above the other (very good) suggestions is more subtle stuff, like adding a lighter grey highlight to all upper edges of all the diamond-checks on his staff. Stuff like that may not be immiediately visually obvious, but usually goes a long way towards catching the eye and making the texture of the mini really pop. i'll be completely honest, when i did the staff, i was just tired of highlights so i did a filthy filthy drybrush on it. gonna give it an extra effort now.
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Nov 13, 2015 09:39
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Just a heads up guys: The Sotar 2020 is on sale on Amazon again, link Speaking from experience, its absolutely brutal to learn how to airbrush on. But once you get the hang of it, it is an amazing brush.
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Nov 13, 2015 16:09
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Hixson posted:Just a heads up guys: What, in your experience, is so brutal about it? I bought one last year and haven't gotten a chance to use it yet (Moving, life, etc.) but knowing what it's weaknesses are going into it now would be great.
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Nov 13, 2015 16:18
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Hubis posted:What, in your experience, is so brutal about it? I bought one last year and haven't gotten a chance to use it yet (Moving, life, etc.) but knowing what it's weaknesses are going into it now would be great. It clogs very easily and often if you don't know what you're doing. It's capable of very fine detail so you need to have the paint thickness and airbrush settings just right to get the paint through the fine detail sized orifices. In my experience it also requires thorough and frequent deep cleaning. When I started I was under the impression that blowing a cup of thinner through it would be good enough to clean it. Nope. What worked best for me was taking the nozzle apart and soaking the components in turpentine after each painting session. Again I'm still pretty dang new at this, and have only achieved not clogging my airbrush every time I use it.
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Nov 13, 2015 16:54
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Hubis posted:What, in your experience, is so brutal about it? It's got one of the finest size needles you can get (0.21mm I think) so you MUST learn about thinning your paints before even picking up. 'Airbrush Ready' paint doesn't really mean anything, you may still need to thin the paint depending on the needle size and the air pressure you're using. Also, the paint cup is pretty small and is really meant for really small, extra-fine detail. All this adds up to something that isn't ideal for basecoating or priming, but if you can work with it, it'll work for you until you can get a general purpose airbrush like the Patriot 105. Also, I finally edited the pictures of the Eldar/Dark Eldar commission I finished last week: https://imgur.com/a/gbq4a        What's up with this Dire Avenger? He's a feckin' transformer!    Looks neat but was a ballache to do. The Wraithknight was much more fun to do. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Nov 13, 2015 |
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Nov 13, 2015 16:55
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Marble is real hard. For stone the best thing you can do is vary the tones on the tiles. I like to do a grey base coat followed by some light grey and white drybrushing, then I'll use a very very light wash on random tiles to make them different shades of blue/red/brown tinted. While in real life there are many cathedrals and castles with uniform flooring, we're painting miniatures and art follows different rules. Using small tonal variance in the stones will break up the otherwise large amounts of plain color they provide. You can obviously use different techniques to do this as well, if you wanted to, for instance, make it look like there was lava/blood/dirty water flowing in between the cracks of the tiles that would also provide a good color splash. I'd also recommend picking up some dark green modelling turf from your local hobby shop/model railroad place/Michaels/Hobby Lobby and using it to do small spots of moss on the tiles, lots and lots of tiles can look pretty flat and the moss will give it a little bit of a 3D element. Might you know any good tutorial videos? I want to get this right.
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Nov 13, 2015 16:56
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krushgroove posted:It's got one of the finest size needles you can get (0.21mm I think) so you MUST learn about thinning your paints before even picking up. 'Airbrush Ready' paint doesn't really mean anything, you may still need to thin the paint depending on the needle size and the air pressure you're using. Also, the paint cup is pretty small and is really meant for really small, extra-fine detail. All this adds up to something that isn't ideal for basecoating or priming, but if you can work with it, it'll work for you until you can get a general purpose airbrush like the Patriot 105. Can you be frank with me? (  ) What are those lizard/naga models?
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Nov 13, 2015 17:02
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Frobbe posted:Can you be frank with me? ( Ha! Yeah, those are Dark Eldar Sslyth models. One pose only, only available in Finecast/whatever they're calling it now, can only order it from GW direct.
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Nov 13, 2015 17:04
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Here’s long promised tutorial/walkthrough on my kodiak. I didn’t originally intend to do one so the photo coverage is basically what i could scrounge together from my camera folder, there’s plenty steps missing in between. I’ll try to remember to take more pictures next time i’m airbrushing vehicles. For a start, here’s the stock variant:  It’s a troop carrier with a trailer and and a little sensor dome on place of the normal turret. The trailer hinge is one piece that slots into the backplate of the main vehicle and i think it’s meant to be glued into place. In game terms this guy is one of the possible options for your general to ride in. It has an additional point of armor and twice as many damage points as the normal variant so i decided early on that i’d customise it and put some additional reactive or ablative armor on it.  I cut the part of the hinge that i wanted to keep with a scalpel black, i dremeled any remains on the trailer part away, drilled holes into the top and bottom part for steel wire and replaced the cylindrical section with a piece of brass tube. The original connection got some 1,5x1mm cylindrical magnets. The picture also has the first attempt at extra armor on it, milled from 0,5mm polystyrene. The nose is just a piece of L shaped polystyrene profile glued between the prongs on the front.  Here’s a first try for the modifications of the rear section, to see how it fits around existing detail and to check it it would fit under a dropship.  A second revsion of the rear section with greeble bits from a hind kit and a machinge gun set loosely in place. There’s also armor skirts i experimented with but in the end i went with something close to the first version.  I gave everything a coat of black primer, mainly see how the rear section looked in a single colour. In this version it also has a more fragile hinge for the antenna that i ended up milling out and replacing with something sturdier.  This is what my scheme looks right after airbrushing. After zenithal priming i spray it light grey, put coarse, open pore foam over it and then spray dark grey, the result is the soft cell pattern or whatever you’d call it.  Here it got a light wash and glaze to darken it a bit and pull it together and i started highlighting as well as painting the details. I use oils for the highlighting on the grey exclusively on this army, german grey highlight by mig to be precise. You can blend, feather, and push it around for hours on end with a little turpentine and easily clean up any mistakes. It’s really fun after getting the hang of it but you have to be very careful not to touch any area you’ve worked on the same day.  The oil paint covers very well but darkens a bit when it dries so you might want to go over some areas again. Getting a feel for how much it’ll darken was part of the learning curve for me but the upside is that if your feathering looks good with the wet paint it’ll blend even better when it’s dry since the contrast will be a bit lower. And finally, here’s a link to the post with the results, along with some gifs of the moving parts: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3705692&userid=65443#post450769971 I hope this is somewhat helpful and i’d be happy to answer any questions.
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Nov 13, 2015 17:26
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Uroboros posted:Might you know any good tutorial videos? I want to get this right. This video is pretty good, the guy doing it is a bit awkward butg w/e: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x30i93s Hirst Arts has a pretty good series of tutorials focused on painting terrain but it would also apply to stone bases: http://www.hirstarts.com/painting/painting6.html
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Nov 13, 2015 17:29
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Fyrbrand posted:Here are some Trollblood Highwaymen I just finished. They are cool models but pretty annoyingly detailed. I also painted Braylen Wanderheart, who is a solo highwayman model that makes them even better if she's nearby. Not enough love for these guys. The one with the cowboy hat and the pair of pistols is my favorite of the bunch, even moreso than the character in the duster.
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Nov 13, 2015 18:21
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Uroboros posted:Might you know any good tutorial videos? I want to get this right. Chest of colours (Google them) has an excellent step by step marble base tutorial.
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Nov 13, 2015 21:08
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Is this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Premium-Airbrushing-Kit-Badger-105-Patriot-Sparmax-610H-Compressor-/261953436827?hash=item3cfda43c9b - a reasonable airbrush kit? Money wise that was what I was comfortable to pay. I assume I'd need to buy cleaning fluid as well, and then sit down with some tutorials. Just wanted to know if its a gigantic ripoff or not, as from research it looks decent.
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Nov 13, 2015 21:14
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SRM posted:Not enough love for these guys. The one with the cowboy hat and the pair of pistols is my favorite of the bunch, even moreso than the character in the duster. Thanks man. Trollbloods remind me of 40k orks in a way- not in terms of playstyle or anything, but in the sense that they often have fun, characterful sculpts. I always say you can tell when a sculptor is really into their subject, and that definitely applies to most Trollblood models. edit: I mean look at these things 
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Nov 13, 2015 21:40
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Lord Twisted posted:Is this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Premium-Airbrushing-Kit-Badger-105-Patriot-Sparmax-610H-Compressor-/261953436827?hash=item3cfda43c9b - a reasonable airbrush kit? Money wise that was what I was comfortable to pay. I assume I'd need to buy cleaning fluid as well, and then sit down with some tutorials. Yup, that's almost exactly what ijyt posted he was going to get. Good compressor, good airbrush. Glad to see people willing to drop money on good stuff from the start!
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Nov 13, 2015 21:48
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