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My Ion holds about the same amount, and even with a black dash and interior, plus a sunroof, has pretty good a/c. And thanks to an aluminum block, also has a heater that actually starts heating pretty quick. Oddly, the compressor on it doesn't ever cycle, it stays on the entire time the a/c is on - apparently it has some kind of fancy variable displacement compressor. No idea if it's mechanically controlled or electronically controlled, I haven't ever really looked at the compressor. Delphi does seem hold some patents on mechanically controlled variable displacement compressors, so I assume it's probably mechanically controlled on my car.
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Oct 21, 2015 05:43
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Goddamnit. Discharge line on the Jeep started leaking just below the crimp. Must not have liked all of the bending from the compressor and receiver/dryer replacement.
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Oct 24, 2015 21:38
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Double posting because I don't know what the gently caress. Replaced compressor, receiver dryer, and discharge line. Vacuumed, no leaks, recharged, and worked great for maybe 30-40 minutes. After another 30-40 minutes I got less and less cold air, no reduction in airflow. By the time I hooked up the gauges I was getting basically no cold air at all. Compressor never cycled off as far as I can tell. Nearly 90 degrees out, here's the running pressures.  Maybe too much oil in the system?
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Oct 25, 2015 21:27
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Shouldn't that trip the low-pressure cutoff?
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Oct 26, 2015 04:54
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You'd think so but it doesn't. Turns out later WJs omit the low pressure switch. They monitor the actual pressure of the high side with a transducer, and the temperature of the evaporator coil.
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Oct 26, 2015 05:17
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I would bet the evaporator froze up. Do jeeps of that era have a cabin filter? I know reduced air flow won't help the cause.
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Oct 26, 2015 05:41
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Dealer option, not present on mine (yet). There's no bypass around the evaporator and I didn't get any reduction in airflow so I really don't think it froze. I could always pull the glovebox and check - I hacked a hole in the side of the HVAC box to replace the blend doors last year.
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Oct 26, 2015 05:58
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Was the compressor running the entire time? Of course Chrysler makes some goofy rear end algorithm when a simple pressure switch would have done a better job. Did you go back and start it up again and see if it starts blowing cold after it sat for an hour or so?
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Oct 26, 2015 06:02
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Yep, never cycled off. Might fire it up a bit tonight or more likely tomorrow to see what's up.
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Oct 26, 2015 06:44
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Was the compressor running the entire time? Someone probably figured that the warranty repair rate going up with a simulated low pressure cutoff not quite being perfect was cheaper than actually having a low pressure switch in every vehicle. 
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Oct 26, 2015 08:44
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You're talking about the same genius HVAC engineers that decided watching for a massive current spike in the blend / recirculate door actuator motors was better than installing some form of actual position feedback. The motors themselves are strong, and the plastic stop pin is extremely weak, so they quickly break and rely on the doors themselves. It's got to be very close to a 100% failure rate.
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Oct 26, 2015 17:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:Double posting because I don't know what the gently caress. You're way low on the low side, and way low on the high side. I get the whole lolgmnolowpressurecutoff, but that's almost irrelevant here: I know you measured your charge weight but it looks low based on those gauges. Add more and see what happens. Then see if the gauge readings go down a day later (thinking something is still leaking......not horribly bad, but bad enough to blow at high pressure). Edit: too much oil wouldn't cause these pressure readings. They would be fine but cooling performance would be lower (because less phase change stuff in the system, but still enough liquid to make the pressures look good). Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Oct 27, 2015 |
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Oct 27, 2015 02:22
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Motronic posted:lolgmnolowpressurecutoff More like lolmoparfactoryzipties  I've got a partial can left, I'll weigh it tomorrow and throw it in and see how much I add / what (if anything) changes on the gauges. I did drive it tonight on an errand - 10 minutes out, 10 minutes parked, 10 minutes back. Vent temps down to 40 degrees (80deg ambient), started warming up to maybe 45 degrees as I pulled back into the driveway. \/\/ If I can duplicate the zero-cooling situation again at home, I'll see if I can shove my inspection camera far enough down the center vents to see the evap. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Oct 27, 2015 |
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Oct 27, 2015 06:09
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That really really sounds like icing to me, depending on evaporator design it can ice up enough to insulate heat transfer without significantly impeding airflow. VV Any amount of liquid will create the same static pressures as a full charge. Because physics. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Oct 27, 2015 |
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Oct 27, 2015 06:11
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Have you tried a static pressure reading after it sits over night? Won't that tell you if it's under charged?
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Oct 27, 2015 06:20
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mafoose posted:Have you tried a static pressure reading after it sits over night? Won't that tell you if it's under charged? Pretty much what Enourmo said, but for shits and grins:  79 degrees ambient, by the way. Running pressures tonight - didn't add any since I didn't have enough time to do so (and didn't want to gently caress around with it any more than necessary without gloves - need to buy more)  Again, 40 degree vent temps for a short drive, won't be until Thursday that I take it for a longer one. However, I did notice something interesting that is making me start thinking yeah, it is slowly leaking. When I popped the low valve off, the schrader valve stuck open a bit until I poked it with a screwdriver and got it to reseat. I'm wondering if the low side valve is leaking, and in that case, I can't decide if I either want to buy the tool to replace it without having to recharge it (again) or if I should just replace the whole hose (which would take about five minutes once the system is empty).
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Oct 28, 2015 07:01
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Emptying the system means a new dryer too, right?
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Oct 28, 2015 08:14
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EightBit posted:Emptying the system means a new dryer too, right? I think it's if you OPEN the system, it's a new drier. If it's just emptied/vacuumed, you're good as no moisture got into the desiccant; but in this case, he is going to take off the hose, opening the system. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Oct 28, 2015 |
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Oct 28, 2015 16:45
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Wasabi the J posted:I think it's if you OPEN the system, it's a new drier. If it's just emptied/vacuumed, you're good as no moisture got into the desiccant; but in this case, he is going to take off the hose, opening the system. You have to open it to replace a hose, though...
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Oct 28, 2015 20:42
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 Yeah, at this point, step one is to see if I can cram enough R134a in there to get those pressures in range. If I can, then I'm going to order one of those Mastercool valve tools and a replacement valve set. According to Amazon and Rockauto, this fits my Jeep. Now I can't decide if I'm good just getting the ~$35 Schrader-only Mastercool tool, or if I need this $75 set or this $140 set.. It's only money  If I can't get the pressures up, I'll plan on a TXV replacement and just replace the whole drat hose (and the dryer, again, ugh).
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Oct 28, 2015 21:27
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I've got the $75 set. I can't imagine needing R12 valve core tools on any regular basis.
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Oct 28, 2015 23:27
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Good to know, I didn't know if those other tools were anything you'd come across these days. I did throw another can in it (took for loving ever to do so, as well) but the low/high running pressures haven't budged at all. The air temperatures have dropped a bit, but the vehicle was heatsoaked and sitting there idling for the better part of an hour. At the same time, it didn't freeze up at all today - but I haven't taken it on a long highway-only drive yet. I'm about at the point where I'm just going to leave it be for the winter and deal with it next summer if it freezes up again then.
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Nov 1, 2015 02:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:I did throw another can in it (took for loving ever to do so, as well) but the low/high running pressures haven't budged at all. Hate to say it, but that sounds exactly like my D1 right now. I had a spare compressor so I threw it on and it made no difference. Then my dumb rear end took out the black light and found the leak. It only leaks above the highest pressure I can keep in there (which is not enough), but sure enough it is a leak. And, yes: it holds vacuum totally fine. This is why good AC shops test with dry gas at/slightly above full pressure before refilling a system. I didn't have anything to do that with in the shop other than beverage CO2 (which probably would have worked) or Argon.
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Nov 1, 2015 17:55
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As lovely as it is, that sounds like the most logical answer to me. I've got UV dye in it, and a blacklight... somewhere, I just used the loving thing to confirm that the oil getting sprayed around the C10 is in fact the front main seal. If it's the evaporator - and knowing my luck it will be - the whole interior has to come out. I guess at least if that's the case I can replace the passenger side blend door motor and the recirculation door since both of them are in really sketchy shape and also require the dash out.
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Nov 2, 2015 19:23
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1999 GMC Suburban with separate climate controls for the rear seats - AC doesn't work, previous owner said that the AC compressor leaks horribly (looked like lots of dye on top of the compressor when I was poking around). I'm getting a new compressor along with a drier, expansion valve, and orifice tube, installing them myself then taking it to a shop to have it vacuumed out and recharged. Should I get new lines to be on the safe side, or wait and see if it needs them, and is there anything else I should replace while I'm at it?
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Nov 10, 2015 23:54
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If you have literally zero knowledge of how hosed it was, then I would just save the time and replace all of the compressed gas parts. Every single one. It's the only way to be sure.
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Nov 11, 2015 07:03
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EightBit posted:If you have literally zero knowledge of how hosed it was, then I would just save the time and replace all of the compressed gas parts. Every single one. It's the only way to be sure. Thanks - wanted to make sure before I ordered everything. In for a penny, might as well go in for a pound...
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Nov 11, 2015 21:41
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That truck actually takes 4 pounds of R134a.
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Nov 11, 2015 22:22
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Car is a 1991 Toyota Soarer. So a while back I posted pictures of my black deathed compressor, and mentioned that I'd be changing out the entire loving AC system (thanks Toyota). I've been away with work since pretty much then until now. I've recently stumbled upon a unicorn compressor for my unicorn car, and have also purchased everything else needed to swap out the whole system. The big question is - How much oil do I put in there, and where do I put it? I have purchased:
So, as far as I can tell, there is next to zero oil in the system. I need to know how much to add, and to where. I will be charging the system with R152 and use Ester oil with a UV dye. I have currently poured 40ml of ester oil directly into the compressor, all over the swash plate, through the revolution detection sensor hole, to keep things lubricated inside there. The SC400 has an almost identical system, with slightly longer hoses to account for the evaporator being on the other side of the car. The SC400 specifies a charge weight of 850g +- 50g (29.92oz +- 1.76oz). The service manual lists the following:
I guess what I need to know is the total quantity of oil that would be used in a similar sized/age/style system. Also knowing when/where to add it would be useful. Can I just work out that I need x amount of oil then dump it all in the drier? Can I spray it all into the low side as I charge the system? Should I shove x amount into each component before installation?
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Nov 15, 2015 21:10
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You did well by putting oil in the compressor. You can put the rest wherever the hell you want, and I'd use the 800-850 ml total in your situation (assuming the rest of the components are dry). Yes, you can even put it in the low side while charging, but that's going to be more difficult depending on what you have around. Just make sure wherever you put it before you vac isn't going to end up in a place where you're doing to vac it back out (like don't fill up the dryer if there's a port on it and it won't drain into the rest of the system before vacing).
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Nov 15, 2015 22:11
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Thanks for the info. My high side port is on the condenser and the low side is on the compressor, so I shouldn't manage to vac it back out. The 800-850 was refrigerant charge in grams, not oil. I estimate about 100-120ml of oil in the system, since that's what many new compressors seem to come with (thanks, Denso!), and I imagine that oil isn't added anywhere else in the factory. I was going to put 60ml in the compressor and the rest (80ml I guess) in the drier. As long as I'm not going to gently caress up the compressor (they are hard as poo poo to find, I had to break an otherwise-running car to get this one), I'm sure it will be fine. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Nov 15, 2015 |
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Nov 15, 2015 23:08
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Thanks for the info. My high side port is on the condenser and the low side is on the compressor, so I shouldn't manage to vac it back out. Oh yeah, that would be a lot of oil.....was just going based on not looking anything up. You'll only break the compressor with too LITTLE oil. You'd have to massivle overfill it to break it with too much. The general problem with too much oil is reduced cooling capacity. So shoot for enough but err towards more rather than less and you should be fine.
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Nov 16, 2015 03:40
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I thought you could slug the compressor with oil just like you can slug it with liquid refrigerant... maybe I am misunderstanding something.
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Nov 16, 2015 20:37
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kastein posted:I thought you could slug the compressor with oil just like you can slug it with liquid refrigerant... maybe I am misunderstanding something. You definitely can.....that's what I meant with "you'd have to massively overfill it to break it with too much". But it take a LOT. Remember, the stuff is miscible in refrigerant, so it's not like you'll have big pockets of it around.
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Nov 16, 2015 21:19
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How safe is it to vacuum down a system with an old receiver/drier that probably has some black death inside it? I'm hesitant to change the receiver/drier only to find that I have a leak and have to change it again (at $100 per unit).
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Dec 1, 2015 13:22
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Best move would probably be to open it up, flush everything, and put it back together with the old receiver/drier (initially, obviously you'll wanna replace it come time to actually charge). Avoids sucking any nastiness into your gauges, you can pull a vacuum, and doesn't waste any refrigerant.
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Dec 1, 2015 13:40
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I've already replaced the rest of the system with non-black-deathed components. I guess I could attempt to flush the receiver/drier to use one time for vacuuming, but I'm not sure how much of the flushing material will sit in the silica gel bag.
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Dec 1, 2015 13:57
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For vacuuming it should be fine. It's not gonna generate nearly enough flow to blow any remaining crud out of the drier into the rest of the system; you just wanna make sure there's nothing near/in the charge ports that could get sucked up and contaminate your gauges.
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Dec 1, 2015 14:51
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Thank you to Motronic for all the advice in the thread - I finally got the AC in the Suburban working. Replaced the compressor, receiver/dryer and orifice tube, vacced out the system, and charged it up (all 4 pounds). Blowing a very chilly 40 degrees from the front vents - GM may have cheaped out on lots of things with that truck, but the A/C is not one of them. And I have a set of gauges & vaccum pump now in case any of the other vehicles develop issues over the summer - thanks again!
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Apr 10, 2016 02:00
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| # ? May 28, 2024 20:04 |
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Another year, another A/C thread.
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Apr 10, 2016 03:08
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