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So they're like blind solid rivets. Neat.
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Nov 12, 2015 17:31
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ductonius posted:These are a called "drive screws". You use to secure metal plates to... other metal plates. As in, you have a name/model/serial/date tag and you need to put it onto a cast iron housing. You drill holes a fraction smaller than the OD of those things then tap them in with a hammer. They cut their own threads and won't pull straight out. Yeah now i can remove badges from machines when I restore them and put them back on.
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Nov 12, 2015 17:50
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wormil posted:Jury rigged or original? Old leather belts were made with metal staples. Those metal staples are conveyor belt lacing. They're super common on old flat belt stuff and better (read quicker) than the older method of grinding down the belt and gluing and stitching. I use old serpentine belts and metal belt lacing on anything that needs a leather flat belt. The only down side is the tick-tick-tick noise they make but I've never noticed it affects the quality of the work or prematurely wears out the pulleys. The nice thing about flat belts for a beginner/idiot is they slip. It's hard to ruin a machine with a built in clutch, but probably not so great when you don't want those mechanical losses.
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Nov 13, 2015 03:53
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Taking a class this week on French Repousse/raising, made some hammers and stakes: Then used those tools to make some stuff:   The class is pretty great and I got to use the Sahliner power hammer which is in another league compared to my Little Giant. Working on some water leaves and probably an acanthus leaf next.
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Nov 13, 2015 04:02
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That looks amazing - how much time does a piece like that normally take you?
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Nov 13, 2015 04:04
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rawrr posted:That looks amazing - how much time does a piece like that normally take you? Each one was about six hours. Since I'm just learning I might be able to shave off an hour or so with more practice.
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Nov 13, 2015 04:14
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Raising and stakework is A++ for doing dramatic forming operations without thinning the metal too much, and also, not going insane from how long it takes via other methods (nice hammers/stakes, I'm kicking myself for not getting around to making myself some hammers at the forge when I had access to striker buds and decent tooling)
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Nov 17, 2015 |
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Nov 15, 2015 20:10
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Anyone own or have used one of those Hobart self contained plasma cutters with the integrated air supply? They look awesome, have good reviews, would be handy as gently caress for me.
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Nov 16, 2015 21:42
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Slung Blade posted:Anyone own or have used one of those Hobart self contained plasma cutters with the integrated air supply? YES. A buddy has a little one (120v) and it's awesome for light sheet metal, and so easy to take your show on the road. Just don't expect too much out of it as far as thickness/power.
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Nov 17, 2015 01:05
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What's the integrated air supply, do they accept wee little bottles of something or do they just come with a built-in compressor?
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Nov 17, 2015 01:18
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Ambrose Burnside posted:What's the integrated air supply, do they accept wee little bottles of something or do they just come with a built-in compressor? Little compressor.
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Nov 17, 2015 02:00
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 2.5% duty cycle strikes again! Found it cleaning up a homeless camp, and took it to the dump. Where it belongs.
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Nov 17, 2015 02:51
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What is that? A flux core welder? If so, 2.5% rated duty cycle is plenty for a non-welder who just want's something to stick nuts to poo poo that won't come out.
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Nov 17, 2015 03:13
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TerminalSaint posted:
As someone who knows nothing about this stuff but loves seeing the stuff you guys make, does that mean that it works for 15 seconds, then you have to let it rest for 9 minutes and 45 seconds?
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Nov 17, 2015 13:03
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10 Beers posted:As someone who knows nothing about this stuff but loves seeing the stuff you guys make, does that mean that it works for 15 seconds, then you have to let it rest for 9 minutes and 45 seconds? Exactly.
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Nov 17, 2015 13:50
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10 Beers posted:As someone who knows nothing about this stuff but loves seeing the stuff you guys make, does that mean that it works for 15 seconds, then you have to let it rest for 9 minutes and 45 seconds? When running at 100% power. Which may not be anywhere close to where you'd be running it on a regular basis.
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Nov 17, 2015 18:24
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Motronic posted:YES. A buddy has a little one (120v) and it's awesome for light sheet metal, and so easy to take your show on the road. I think I need one. Did you try cutting any 1/4" with it? It claims to be capable of that, so I hope it could do ok in a pinch. But 1/4" and under would be fine for what I want it for.
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Nov 17, 2015 22:06
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Slung Blade posted:I think I need one. Biggest I've done is like 12-14g sheet and it's like butter. No idea on 1/4".
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Nov 18, 2015 00:28
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WXHNBMLZZM crosspost from (naturally) OSHA.JPG over gbs-abouts, a working period steam-powered machine shop 
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Nov 18, 2015 01:31
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Dunno if this is the right place, but I have a question: What causes copper to oxidise into copper (I) oxide (the red stuff) vs. copper (II) oxide) (the black stuff), and how can I shift the oxidation reaction towards the former more? I've been using copper a lot on miniature-making (more on the sculptural/metal-worky side than the paints and airbrushes one), and I've been having a lot of fun with darkening the copper using heat. Here's a picture:  The copper is in the robes (etched copper sheet) and in the headband (cut copper sheet) and hair (copper foil twisted into tubing). I've really liked the mottled red and black effect that you get on this, especially once you polish/1200-grit sand it up a bit - you reveal bright copper on the edges of the etching, and get a beautiful gloss effect on the oxidise bits. The one problem is that I've been going basically off luck in order to get the copper (I) oxide built up on it. Heating the copper (with a hand blowtorch - a tiny butane thing, not like the stuff I've seen in the thread) to cherry red, and leaving it to air cool, gets me the black copper (II) oxide, but no red. I've only been able to get the latter by immediately dunking it into water after heating it, which sometimes leaves me with the required red-black tint, and sometimes seems to 'burst' all the oxide off to leave a pitted but unoxidised copper surface. Is this basically just luck of the draw - keep doing it until it works - or is there some way that I can encourage it? Sorry to ask what I'm sure is a basic question - this is just something I've been fumbling out myself (with a bunch of safety measures, naturally ...).
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Nov 18, 2015 13:18
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Have you tried liver of sulfur? it gives copper a sort of soft black coating you can scrub through with steel wool to get varying dark shades.
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Nov 18, 2015 16:40
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coldpudding posted:Have you tried liver of sulfur? it gives copper a sort of soft black coating you can scrub through with steel wool to get varying dark shades. Yep! I've mostly used it on silver stuff, but definitely tried it on copper as well. The problem is that doesn't have much variation in colour - every time I've used it it's gone straight to dark black without producing any of the other preferred colours - the reds, browns, etc. Polishes up nicely though, even if it just gives you a shiny black, which is better than a copper (II) oxide finish.
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Nov 18, 2015 18:29
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Phosphoric acid will pink up your copper.
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Nov 18, 2015 22:15
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I decided to attempt making my own tongs. Doing alright, but the biggest problem : The stupid bolt! After three tries I gave up. I realize I've stacked the deck against. I don't have a nail heading tool, nor do I have really fine tongs, so I think I'll end up just buying some bolts at the hardware store. Any tips on finer hammer work? I think half the problem is trying to use tools that are too big, but they're the only ones I've got.
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Nov 19, 2015 01:17
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Pagan posted:I decided to attempt making my own tongs. Doing alright, but the biggest problem : The stupid bolt! You don't need a nail or rivet header for tongs. Make one of the holes on the rein slightly cone shaped, big end out (this is easy if you use tapered punches like what I have). Heat just the skinny tip of the rivet (not the head) and 'spread' the shank into the V cone with a center punch. It's not quite as good as a nice flat rivet head on each side, but if it's all you have it'll work fine.
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Nov 19, 2015 21:48
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Slung Blade posted:You don't need a nail or rivet header for tongs. Make one of the holes on the rein slightly cone shaped, big end out (this is easy if you use tapered punches like what I have). Heat just the skinny tip of the rivet (not the head) and 'spread' the shank into the V cone with a center punch. I realize I left out an important sentence : I'm trying to make the bolt from scratch, and making a good bolt is the hardest part. I tried three times, and got close, but I don't have bolt tongs (what I'm trying to make) and I kept dropping the tiny piece.I bought machine screws from Home Depot today and they'll suffice, but I was hoping I could make the whole thing from scratch. PPE question : I wear earmuffs / headphones for hearing protection. I realize there are probably headphones out there that provide high dB protection and could play music? Maybe even active noise cancelling with a variable level? I'm looking around on Amazon, but if anyone has suggestions or a pair they really liked...
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Nov 20, 2015 04:34
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Wear earmuff style ear protection and have earbuds in as well. That's what I do.
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Nov 20, 2015 04:44
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Pagan posted:I realize I left out an important sentence : I'm trying to make the bolt from scratch, and making a good bolt is the hardest part. I tried three times, and got close, but I don't have bolt tongs (what I'm trying to make) and I kept dropping the tiny piece.I bought machine screws from Home Depot today and they'll suffice, but I was hoping I could make the whole thing from scratch. Terminology nitpick: an unthreaded fastener which is held in place by both ends being spread out is a rivet, not a bolt. When I needed some fine tongs i've used needlenose visegrips or even old needlenose pliars. as long as it has no plastic grips it'll do.
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Nov 20, 2015 05:09
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Pagan posted:I realize I left out an important sentence : I'm trying to make the bolt from scratch, and making a good bolt is the hardest part. I tried three times, and got close, but I don't have bolt tongs (what I'm trying to make) and I kept dropping the tiny piece.I bought machine screws from Home Depot today and they'll suffice, but I was hoping I could make the whole thing from scratch. http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Impact-Electric-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447993995&sr=8-1&keywords=howard+leight Pair them with http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight...ward+leight+max and turn up the volume enough to overcome the plugs. This is my standard "everything noisy" setup from shooting range to chainsaws to hammering fence posts. For the less noisy things I skip the plugs (like mowing).
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Nov 20, 2015 05:35
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Pagan posted:I realize I left out an important sentence : I'm trying to make the bolt from scratch, and making a good bolt is the hardest part. I tried three times, and got close, but I don't have bolt tongs (what I'm trying to make) and I kept dropping the tiny piece.I bought machine screws from Home Depot today and they'll suffice, but I was hoping I could make the whole thing from scratch. The way to make things without tongs, including making tongs, is to make it on the end of longer stock then cut it off. It just needs to be long enough that you can hold it in your hand. So for a rivet, take a piece of rod a couple feet long, heat the very end and upset it into a rivet head, cool and cut it off at the appropriate length. Place the rivet into the tongs and heat the whole lot until it's just hot enough to peen the rivet with the head against the anvil. Saw this video the other day, might be helpful: https://youtu.be/lF2JtyXqpvU
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Nov 20, 2015 12:20
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ReelBigLizard posted:The way to make things without tongs, including making tongs, is to make it on the end of longer stock then cut it off. It just needs to be long enough that you can hold it in your hand. Yeah, this is the correct way to go. Or, heat up a short length in the fire, pull it out with pliers, set it in some sand and let it cool for three or four hours. Then just hammer it cold. It should be soft enough with a little luck. Or, even better, use a mapp torch to get heat up just where you need it on the tip of your rivet. But RBL's advice is how the OG crew operates.
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Nov 23, 2015 21:08
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Kinda-sorta-not-really the thread for it, but yall my posting krew- i'm looking seriously at one- and two-year tool and die/millwright programs for next fall because, among other reasons, this "being super broke possibly forever" thing is wearing really thin, and I think they're fields I could do well in and actually kind of enjoy. Anybody work or have much experience in either trade or in related fields who can speak to it? I dunno what I'm looking for, nothing specific, I just don't know anybody IRL whose brain I can pick about *gestures broadly* Things.
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Nov 23, 2015 22:10
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Kinda-sorta-not-really the thread for it, but yall my posting krew- i'm looking seriously at one- and two-year tool and die/millwright programs for next fall because, among other reasons, this "being super broke possibly forever" thing is wearing really thin, and I think they're fields I could do well in and actually kind of enjoy. Anybody work or have much experience in either trade or in related fields who can speak to it? I dunno what I'm looking for, nothing specific, I just don't know anybody IRL whose brain I can pick about *gestures broadly* Things. If you get into any sort of machining, go for CNC. Dear gods, go for CNC. I did my training for my first year's apprenticeship as a manual machinist here in Canada, and let me tell you; being a 1st year manual machinist means there is no such thing as work. Unless you already have a job lined up when you get into it, you are effectively hosed. There will be no work, because almost nobody is willing to hire first years. If you do find one of the rare places willing to take on a newbie, then you'd better have a full set of tools, which will run you a couple of grand(which you won't have because you won't have had any work), or say goodbye to that. If you find a place that will hire you, not require you have several grand in tools before doing your 1st day's work, and not require that you be CNC trained, then you should also buy a lottery ticket and start saving those solid gold eggs you've been making GBS threads out. I'm not bitter, really. I am incredibly bitter.
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Nov 23, 2015 22:23
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Kinda-sorta-not-really the thread for it, but yall my posting krew- i'm looking seriously at one- and two-year tool and die/millwright programs for next fall because, among other reasons, this "being super broke possibly forever" thing is wearing really thin, and I think they're fields I could do well in and actually kind of enjoy. Anybody work or have much experience in either trade or in related fields who can speak to it? I dunno what I'm looking for, nothing specific, I just don't know anybody IRL whose brain I can pick about *gestures broadly* Things. Time to head back to George Brown buddy!
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Nov 23, 2015 22:23
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MohawkSatan posted:If you find a place that will hire you, not require you have several grand in tools before doing your 1st day's work, and not require that you be CNC trained, then you should also buy a lottery ticket and start saving those solid gold eggs you've been making GBS threads out. How about one year of manual machining at trade school and stepping into one of those jobs. 
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Nov 23, 2015 23:31
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oxbrain posted:How about one year of manual machining at trade school and stepping into one of those jobs. I'm not sure whether I hate you, or I'm just jealous.
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Nov 23, 2015 23:35
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oxbrain posted:How about one year of manual machining at trade school and stepping into one of those jobs. Same here buddy, been at that job for...holy poo poo 14 years. Edit: Ambrose, I'm not strictly a tool and die guy, but the nature of the machines we have at work means I do work on them a lot. I don't know what it's like in Canada, but from what I've seen down here in the USA, I don't hear much about training programs and the like much. All the machinists I know just started somewhere with little experience and worked their way up. Manufacturing in this country is all messed up. I have no idea what the point to any of what I'm saying is, but I do know it can be tough, but I would think there are places that will take a guy who's not a dummy and has good work ethic on. As an aside, the work I enjoy doing the most is working on plastic injection molds. If I had to find another job, I'd probably be looking to learn under a moldmaker. A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Nov 24, 2015 |
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Nov 24, 2015 00:11
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Ambrose Burnside posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WXHNBMLZZM owns
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Nov 24, 2015 01:44
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Same here buddy, been at that job for...holy poo poo 14 years. Up here, machining is a recognized trade. Which means it requires schooling. Getting hired as anything more than a shop helper without the piece of paper that says you're qualified and won't gently caress things up straight up doesn't happen. On top of that, without getting your Red Seal, your qualifications count for literally nothing outside of your home province. If you were really lucky, someone would hire you at around $4-$5 an hour less than what you'd normally be earning(basing this off of what welders/mechanics/carpenters normally get without their red seal). Your work ethic doesn't count for poo poo, if you never get a chance to work and prove yourself.
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Nov 24, 2015 01:53
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MohawkSatan posted:If you find a place that will hire you, not require you have several grand in tools before doing your 1st day's work, and not require that you be CNC trained, then you should also buy a lottery ticket and start saving those solid gold eggs you've been making GBS threads out. In 2011, I went to a seven-week manual machining "job training" thingy in Fort Worth (paid for by the Texas Workforce Commission). The curriculum was finished by the end of week 3, I spent the next 2 weeks making a little twin wobbler steam engine, and I had three job offers in hand by week 5. All I needed were prescription safety glasses and steel-toed work boots. I just borrowed tools on the job for my probation period. So uh, I guess my point is 
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Nov 24, 2015 02:56
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