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When you first get an airbrush everything feels like cheating 
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Nov 19, 2015 20:14
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Even if you just use it for basecoating, it's just so much quicker and less tedious than with a normal brush.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:17
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Lord Twisted posted:So I took a day off work, ostensibly because the gas man was coming, really because my airbrush was coming. Just spent the day loving about with it, learning how to disassemble and clear clogs etc. It was waiting for you with open arms.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:32
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Bistromatic posted:Even if you just use it for basecoating, it's just so much quicker and less tedious than with a normal brush. Smoother too in my experience, even with a lovely brush
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Nov 19, 2015 20:32
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Indolent Bastard posted:It was waiting for you with open Also Bulba's comment makes me want to get one and try body-painting my wife with it. Spicey!
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Nov 19, 2015 20:47
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Also Bulba's comment makes me want to get one and try body-painting my wife with it. Spicey!
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Nov 19, 2015 20:53
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Also Bulba's comment makes me want to get one and try body-painting my wife with it. Spicey! Same tools, same techniques, different paint.
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Nov 19, 2015 21:22
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I don't paint enough currently to justify buying an airbrush setup, but man I want to at least try one now. Tbh I've probably spent as much on paints and materials as I have on minis at this point, although I have a huge heap of old mixed fantasy stuff various friends passed down to me over the years. Brettonians, dwarves, empire, wood elves, skaven and orks, with the bulk of it being empire & skaven. And probably a fair bit of miscellaneous other stuff. I know there's literal pounds of like a dozen different kinds of flocking stuffed in a box down there.
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Nov 19, 2015 21:24
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Indolent Bastard posted:Same tools, same techniques, different paint. Pretty sure you also need a different airbrush too, so you don't shoot acrylic resins directly into someone's face.
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Nov 19, 2015 21:27
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I had some time tonight to get some more base coat on the Ghostkeel. Starting to come together a bit more now.    
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Nov 19, 2015 22:26
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now I'm gonna spend all night watching airbrush videosAvenging Dentist posted:Pretty sure you also need a different airbrush too, so you don't shoot acrylic resins directly into someone's face. maybe you dont
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Nov 19, 2015 22:29
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SlyFrog posted:The links in the OP are mostly broken at this point.
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Nov 19, 2015 23:29
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Hi guys, I'm working on a demon model and I could use some suggestions on where to go next with the metal. I've done a solid base coat with some brown and black ink washes. I think the metal looks good but it could use some more work. Any ideas?    
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Nov 20, 2015 04:06
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Use an uneven drybrush of a brighter color, like silver, to show places where it's fresh/scuffed/sharpened. Like along the blade, but also jagged parts where maybe it deflected something or the demon whiffed and wanged it on a rock. Then take a dirty orange or brown kind of color, water it down and stipple in toward the interior of the blades or depressions where matter would collect as a kind of indication of less wear, rust, caked organism or something like that. Then maybe take black and darken one of the facets of the things that are triangular or have a long edge, so that it gives the feeling of an extreme lighting environment. Try to pick a consistent direction.
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Nov 20, 2015 04:20
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Zark the Damned posted:Bolter pots were the worst and rarely managed to keep the paint liquid for long. The flip top ones were less bad but the screw top ones were nightmares and I can't believe someone signed off on them. I can, planned obsolescence is a real thing. How many times have you bought new paint not because you ran out of those colors but because the lovely pot meant the paint dried-out?
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Nov 20, 2015 04:23
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big_g posted:I had some time tonight to get some more base coat on the Ghostkeel. Starting to come together a bit more now. This is looking pretty 
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Nov 20, 2015 04:52
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big_g posted:I had some time tonight to get some more base coat on the Ghostkeel. Starting to come together a bit more now. Your stuff is looking like a Fitchenfoo/PECK Gundam, and that's extremely high praise. For reference: Fitchenfoo: http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-gallery/ PECK: http://peck2003.web.fc2.com/
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Nov 20, 2015 05:01
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Zaphiel posted:Hi guys, What model is that? It looks really awesome. It's saying Mierce to me but that's just a very vague vibe.
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Nov 20, 2015 05:03
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Zaphiel posted:Hi guys, After you've washed a metal color you can take a dull hobby blade or dental tool and gently scratches the surface in a line. It's a neat way to weather metals along things like the ax head.
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Nov 20, 2015 09:16
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Back in the day for my Cryx I alternated between light washes and progressively smaller metal highlights, that way you can very precisely control which areas get how many layers of wash. I quite like the finished look. I'm currently at work but I could see if I have some photos lying around when or take some tomorrow during daylight hours if anyone wants.
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Nov 20, 2015 09:24
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Z the IVth posted:Your stuff is looking like a Fitchenfoo/PECK Gundam, and that's extremely high praise. Wow thanks, just been looking and their stuff is excellent. I'm kinda just making this up as I go as a nice break from the historical scale kits. Pretty fun so far although the digi cam was tedious towards the end.
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Nov 20, 2015 09:31
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big_g posted:I had some time tonight to get some more base coat on the Ghostkeel. Starting to come together a bit more now. This is totally killer. If you like internet points, I would post it on coolminiornot when you are done.
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Nov 20, 2015 15:02
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signalnoise posted:I stand behind the Xuron 2175ET http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA/ for plastic Thank you kind sir. Ordered from Amazon and on its way.
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Nov 20, 2015 15:09
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krushgroove posted:Please be more specific so I can fix them, which links? Or at least which specific post/section? Perhaps it is just that my browser at work is having issues with them (though that is rarely the case, we do not block sites here), but both of the links in this sentence do not show up for me (for example): "And here is a pair of buying guides for your basic 'kit' to get you started. "
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Nov 20, 2015 15:12
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SlyFrog posted:Perhaps it is just that my browser at work is having issues with them (though that is rarely the case, we do not block sites here), but both of the links in this sentence do not show up for me (for example): OK thanks - I'm on my phone and just checked both links, they both work for me... the first link goes here https://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/32 (copy-pasted from my phone browser) and the second to here https://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/37 Maybe see of you can follow those links or even the Reapermini.com site?
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Nov 20, 2015 17:15
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Hello painting nerds I have a new painter style Q for you: I am painting some models in monochrome, to make them look like black chess pieces. I bought Reaper's line of uncolored greys (not dark dark blue or green), which have remarkably generic names, but I believe goes Pure Black -> Stormy Grey -> Cloudy Grey -> Misty Grey -> Pure White as well as Black Wash and Black Ink, two products which I am not 100% how to tell apart. My progress has gone like this: -Prime with matte grey spray primer -A couple layers of watered down black -A black wash Next I painted all the areas visible while looking at the model from a 45 degree angle 1:1 Pure Black/Stormy Grey. This went alright. Then I looked straight down and hit all the areas I could see with a layer if pure Storm Grey, and intended to follow that up with some very light dry brushing of 1:1 Storm Grey/Cloud Grey, but I've hit a snag. My paint has visible brush marks! I watered all of my paints about 1:3 water/paint, because any more than that and the paint seeped into the recesses and ruined the shading. Should I water more, and plan on washing the whole thing an additional time to shade the recesses? Should I have done an additional layer of like 1:3 Pure Black/Storm Grey before the pure Storm Grey? Is there some other trick to prevent brush marks? This hobby is so expensive it's stressful when I worry about ruining a model. These are just my test models and I'm still stressed out 
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Nov 20, 2015 17:27
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krushgroove posted:OK thanks - I'm on my phone and just checked both links, they both work for me... the first link goes here https://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/32 (copy-pasted from my phone browser) and the second to here https://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/37 Thanks for looking. They still do not work, but I will check when I get home on a different computer. Could be something odd with the work computer. As I said, they do not block any sites or anything like that, but maybe there is a weird certificate issue, script blocker, or something I don't know about.
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Nov 20, 2015 17:47
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JerryLee posted:What model is that? It looks really awesome. It's saying Mierce to me but that's just a very vague vibe. Good eye! It is a Mierce model! It's Krull, Servile Lord of Dis. http://mierce-miniatures.com/index.php?act=pro&pre=mrm_dkl_inf_dis_wld_101_000
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Nov 20, 2015 18:12
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RE: Do the fundamentals In an effort to set up a painting plan and take some of the brainwork out of it, I'm following Duncan Rhodes' painting advice, and also using GW paint to take guesswork out of picking basecoat and highlights and poo poo. As an aside, I am finding that I really like these paints. The pots can go to hell, but the whole base/layer distinction, when you actually use it, is coming along pretty well on my test stuff. Now, the question: I'm painting this guy-  I've successfully put a basecoat of mephiston red down on his skin, and now I get to go about painting his armor plates. I want some metallic highlights at the end, but I don't want to paint the whole set of armor with an actual metallic, I think. What kind of color should I put down as a basecoat? I was thinking I could go with black and drybrush on some metal, but I think there's too much flat area for that. How do I (simply) get a decent looking set of well-used steel armor on this guy?
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Nov 20, 2015 22:37
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Some advice please thread. With the Ghostkeel I am obviously painting the two weapons, one on each arm; a cyclic ion raker!?! and the countermeasure arm separately. For a change from the normal I was planning to paint them in the standard Tau ochre colour to look like field hot swapped weapon systems where the techs have fitted new weapons but have not had time to re-spray and update the paint. The idea is that this should add interest and variation to the model. Is this a good idea or not? It is a quite common technique in the historical scale modelling field as shown by this 1:35 Ferdinand I did with a red primed gun guard and black heat proof primed barrel field fitted before they could be spray painted the same colour as the rest of the vehicle.  What do you all think?
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Nov 20, 2015 22:54
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signalnoise posted:I was thinking I could go with black and drybrush on some metal, but I think there's too much flat area for that. How do I (simply) get a decent looking set of well-used steel armor on this guy? So if you're focusing on the basics and not trying to do too much fancy stuff, I'd go with a very simple process, something like this (using GW paints only) - Black basecoat - Ironbreaker, leaving visible black only in the deepest holes/recesses - Highlight with Runefang Steel, paying attention to plate edges - Wash with Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade (and/or Seraphim Sepia). This is to dirty up the silver more and give it a more "well used" look. Start with light washes, you can always give it multiple passes till you get the look you want. - Re-highlight with Runefang towards the very edges of the plates, and other places where dirt would be scraped away naturally. EDIT: A variation on this would be a dark brown basecoat instead of the black. Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Nov 20, 2015 |
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Nov 20, 2015 22:57
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signalnoise posted:RE: Do the fundamentals Yay! There's not too much flat area. But if you try it and still disagree, hold/stick the dude upside down and then put a little brown or a second dribble of black in the parts that would be grimiest.
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Nov 20, 2015 23:10
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Thanks youse guys
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Nov 20, 2015 23:16
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Can you post a picture of the basecoats before you do any washes or highlights?
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Nov 20, 2015 23:23
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:Hello painting nerds I have a new painter style Q for you: Show us a couple of pictures so we can see what's going on.
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Nov 20, 2015 23:23
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big_g posted:Some advice please thread. A warm earth tone is going to go a long way to add some visual interest to your sweet paintjob. However, I do urge restraint. While I have no experience with that model, I know GW does like its huge weapons. It's going to be really easy to over do it. On the other hand, you want that warm block of color, not a bunch of little patches. You may have to throw your historical druthers aside to hit that sweet spot. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Nov 21, 2015 |
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Nov 20, 2015 23:24
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Skarsnik posted:Can you post a picture of the basecoats before you do any washes or highlights? When I get them all done yeah. If desired I can do a little step by step confirmation between basecoat/layer/whatever
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Nov 20, 2015 23:27
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After going through all those weedy grots, I thought I'd paint something with a little more oomph - finally got around to painting my second trukk!      I think this thing might be my favorite conversion I've ever done, it was a joy to put together, and that moment where everything just clicked made some all the frustration worth it. Fixing it after it fell off my table was less fun though.
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Nov 21, 2015 00:01
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:black & grey RMS Noir Black is very very dark graphite and an awesome first highlight for pure black.
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Nov 21, 2015 01:00
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SRM posted:After going through all those weedy grots, I thought I'd paint something with a little more oomph - finally got around to painting my second trukk! That's pretty drat awesome and I love that you've used both halves of the Taurox on different vehicles  Any chance of a side by side comparison?
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Nov 21, 2015 01:34
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