|
How did I get 5000 posts behind on the painting thread, jesus. Hey miniatures painters: why not exchange gifts involving miniatures and painting them in this year's Trad Games Secret Santa? If you specify that you like and enjoy miniatures, probably some goon would buy you some, and there's at least a chance that your randomly-assigned Santee might like a similar sort of gift! Or possibly not, it's all down to luck. Why not check it out? {this promotional post posted with Ettin's permission.}
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2015 02:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 09:41 |
|
|
Skarsnik posted:Can you post a picture of the basecoats before you do any washes or highlights? This is actually what you should be doing. Great advice. Cross posting w00tmonger posted:Pink legion incoming w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Nov 21, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2015 03:07
|
|
|
The awesome blue camouflage ghost keel makes me want to do a crisis suit as John Cena.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2015 01:41
|
|
|
Infantry dump!    This guy is from an ancient Zvezda kit. The quality isn't exactly modern, but I think the face turned out pretty well on him, and I always liked this figure due to the big silly goggles. Also I finally finished off those Masterbox marines.   And here's the whole set: 
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2015 05:17
|
|
|
Had my first proper go with an airbrush! Took probably 4-5 attempts and strips to get right, but now I'm happy with the final effect. The gradient doesn't always come out on phones, but I've put a bunch of pics so you can see.       MKIV Icon shoulders are in the post, so he'll be finished another day! But I'm pretty drat happy so far, the airbrush is not something which solves every problem, but if you play to its strengths its a loving cheatmachine. (Black - German Camo - Bottom half Black Green - Middle bit Medium Olive - Spray top down light green) Edit: JFC close up photos always make me look like a ridiculously amateur painter - I'll do touch ups later.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2015 15:07
|
|
|
Does anybody have some Tips or links to tutorials on how to do color modulation for black? I don't mean for priming though, I will eventually be painting up a bunch of 15mm tanks in NATO 3-Color Camoflauge which incorporates some large areas of flat black. Seen here: http://www.scalemodelguide.com/painting-weathering/painting-guide/hard-edge-camo-scheme/ Most guides simply paint flat black for this but they are almost always painting much larger 1/72 or bigger models. Using it with 15mm models, flat black looks like poo poo as the model is so small and reflects so little light. So with other colors I generally go up to 1-2 shades lighter in overall color than what is recommended, maybe higher if I plan on doing extensive weathering. Thoughts? Lord Twisted posted:
Looks good, I generally find that most of my messy detail painting gets covered up by a wash
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2015 18:15
|
|
|
I too have been painting Salamanders. Yours look better though. Zark the Damned posted:
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2015 19:14
|
|
Oath Complete 
|
Gareth Gobulcoque posted:A warm earth tone is going to go a long way to add some visual interest to your sweet paintjob. However, I do urge restraint. While I have no experience with that model, I know GW does like its huge weapons. It's going to be really easy to over do it. On the other hand, you want that warm block of color, not a bunch of little patches. You may have to throw your historical druthers aside to hit that sweet spot. Well I started with the weapons tonight and laid down the base colours on the weapons for the arms. Obviously details and wash to add yet.. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2015 22:24
|
|
|
Hi tech blue and black digital camo carrying a Commodore 64? So hot!
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2015 23:52
|
|
|
Having some minor one piece mold issues. Most of the molds I do are 2 piece and those work out fine, but this one piece mold I have made the resin on the top is getting super bubbly and leaving a good 3-5mm uneven surface that looks like a muffin. The piece in mold I care most about comes out fine, but its annoying to have to cut or sand off the resin on the bottom of it to get it flat as intended. Am I mixing the resin wrong and introducing too much air or something?
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2015 21:30
|
|
|
Post more cool Salamander mans since I no longer paint them, thx in advance.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2015 21:38
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:Am I mixing the resin wrong and introducing too much air or something? That's one possibility. You might be getting unwanted moisture in your resin or in the mold, too. Some molds also make it easier to accidentally trap air inside them, which might bubble up near the end. If they're entirely on the surface, you can use a blowtorch to pop them all (though I've never tried this). Something about the CO2 forcing the bubbles to pop. Or you could just blow on them, or vibrate the mold so the bubbles rise up enough that they pop on their own.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2015 21:40
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:Having some minor one piece mold issues. Most of the molds I do are 2 piece and those work out fine, but this one piece mold I have made the resin on the top is getting super bubbly and leaving a good 3-5mm uneven surface that looks like a muffin. The piece in mold I care most about comes out fine, but its annoying to have to cut or sand off the resin on the bottom of it to get it flat as intended. Am I mixing the resin wrong and introducing too much air or something? How long does your resin take to set? How old is your resin? Slow setting resins are unlikely to retain so many air bubbles that you end up with the appearance you mention. The only time I've seen what you describe happen is when too much moisture absorbed into the resin - it was old and I had left it uncovered overnight. Resin curing is exothermic, and if you have moisture in it, it evaporates to give that bubbled appearance.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2015 22:09
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:Post more cool Salamander mans since I no longer paint them, thx in advance. I'm not sure if they qualify as cool, but have an albumful - http://imgur.com/a/DKkJA
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2015 22:18
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:How long does your resin take to set? 10 minutes to set and its old, like 9ish months old, so I wouldn't be surprised if that had part to do with it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2015 22:21
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:That's one possibility. You might be getting unwanted moisture in your resin or in the mold, too. Some molds also make it easier to accidentally trap air inside them, which might bubble up near the end. The blowtorch uses heat to pop bubbles, due to the gas expanding when it's hot.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2015 23:13
|
|
|
thespaceinvader posted:The blowtorch uses heat to pop bubbles, due to the gas expanding when it's hot. That makes somewhat more sense than Art Resin's explanation: "The blow torch is most effective because it uses carbon dioxide to force the bubble out."
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2015 23:15
|
|
|
Superglue's hold seem to be inversely proportional to how much I want it to hold. That dude's helmet that you glued on badly and looks wonky? Forget it, it's never coming off, ever. That arm that has fallen off five times, despite being pinned with a greenstuff-glue sandwich? It'll fall off if I even look at it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 12:58
|
|
|
Geisladisk posted:Superglue's hold seem to be inversely proportional to how much I want it to hold. Superglue's ability to bond is essentially to make a stiff vacuum seal. If there's nothing mechanical about the joint, then it's down to the surface. Your choices are a) very smooth, makes a pretty good vacuum as long as it can wrap around the edges a little bit, or b) rough so it seeps into the crevices and makes a bunch of velcro-style mini mechanical joints. Once a lovely surface screws up the first time, and you try to superglue the second time, what you have is stratified layers of the glue which can either serve as a series of break away points, like a modern bumper, or can form a warped, but fairly smooth surface which makes for the worst case on the seal. The glue also has a tendency to alter the surface slightly in ways you can't see--leaving behind all its tiny fingers in a way that's nearly invisible to the eye, or, for softer resins and occasionally plastic, polishing the surface of imperfections too small for you to see (but important for a good seal). If you end up in a situation like this, score the place where the break-away happens. Cross hatch with a file, exacto, or Then weep openly because it'll break anyway.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 18:51
|
|
|
Here's how I've managed to have mostly-good luck with superglue: 0) Use good superglue. I like Locktite Professional. It's strong enough that it's actually hard to unglue my fingers when I inevitably make a mess with it.  1) Pin everything. Aside from being sturdier, it also gives you more time to figure out how to line up the parts, and then provides a handy guide (the pin) so that you can move quickly when you've applied the glue. I used to have a lot of issues with the glue half-drying while I try to get some teeny piece in place, but pinning has made the process considerably less fiddly. Note that this may require buying ridiculously small drill bits. I use a #80 drill bit and some guitar string (0.011") for the tiniest of joins. 2) Use the minimum amount of superglue necessary to coat the surface. More superglue means a worse join and it takes longer to dry. This might mean you need a little toothpick or something to apply the glue if the bottle doesn't let you deposit really tiny drops directly. 3) Don't futz with the join after you put the pieces together. It'll just weaken the bond. Pinning, of course, helps here. 4) If there's a lot of empty space between two parts, the useful contact point for the glue is smaller. You can add talcum powder to the join (I just drop some on top join immediately after I glue it). This gives the glue more to "stick to" and strengthens the join. 5) If you gently caress up and have to break a join (or it just doesn't stick), clean off the glue. For unpainted metal guys, I like acetone (nail polish remover). Five minutes in acetone, and the glue turns into jelly, and it's really easy to scrape it all off with a hobby knife. For other cases, just scraping off the dried glue with a knife is usually ok too. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Nov 25, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 19:23
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:10 minutes to set and its old, like 9ish months old, so I wouldn't be surprised if that had part to do with it. I've noticed the fast curing stuff goes hotter as well, so its probably boiling the moisture even more.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 20:23
|
|
|
If I ever have to reglue something I always sand or scrape off the old glue. Super glue doesn't bond very well to itself after dry. I put a lot of joints together using small balls of greenstuff- put some super glue on the area, plop down a ball of GS, then put glue onto the GS. Then mate the parts. When it cures its a really nice bond and I can adjust the pose while it dries.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 20:54
|
|
|
So I've finally finished my first unit of dudes I'm happy enough with to call 'finished' and I'd like to varnish them. Can anyone suggest to me a hardware store brand of varnish that will protect my hours of painstaking but not overly impressive labour?
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 22:51
|
|
|
Litterbox posted:So I've finally finished my first unit of dudes I'm happy enough with to call 'finished' and I'd like to varnish them. Can anyone suggest to me a hardware store brand of varnish that will protect my hours of painstaking but not overly impressive labour? I use a combo of testors glosscote & dullcote. I think some of the major hardware chains in the US carry it? If not then hobby lobby or michaels etc will.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 23:08
|
|
|
Yeah I'd really like summat that doesn't have a sheen, or much of a sheen. Dirty dull dwarves you know.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 23:11
|
|
|
Seconding glosscote + dullcote. Spray a layer or two of glosscote for protection, and then a layer of dullcote to make everything matte again. e: vvv Yeah, as far as I can tell, Future is basically gloss medium (like they use in paints) plus some flow improver. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Nov 25, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 23:19
|
|
|
A couple coats of gloss to protect the paint job and then the dullcote would kill the sheen. I use Future floor wash and then spray on krylon matte finish.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 23:20
|
|
|
Litterbox posted:Yeah I'd really like summat that doesn't have a sheen, or much of a sheen. Dirty dull dwarves you know. That's what the dullcote is for Edit: on a different note, I remember some chat about spraying primer etc in winter without clumping and frosting. What was the secret to that, just keep the can warm? I'm running out of primed stuff and I need to gloss/dullcote a few things as well. And we're supposed to get dumped on with snow today/tomorrow. Hauki fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Nov 25, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 23:39
|
|
|
Hauki posted:Edit: on a different note, I remember some chat about spraying primer etc in winter without clumping and frosting. What was the secret to that, just keep the can warm? I'm running out of primed stuff and I need to gloss/dullcote a few things as well. And we're supposed to get dumped on with snow today/tomorrow. I haven't tested it yet, but my plan is 1) use Tamiya fine gray, since people say it's very forgiving about weather (esp humidity), 2) prime in the garage so it's not quite as cold, 3) only take my stuff out for long enough to spray them. The last bit means my apartment will probably smell a bit like propellant, but nowhere near as bad as priming indoors.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 23:46
|
|
|
jodai posted:A couple coats of gloss to protect the paint job and then the dullcote would kill the sheen. I use Future floor wash and then spray on krylon matte finish. The chief benefit of Future, or whatever they're calling it now, is the price. I bought a bottle for like $8 three or four years ago now and I've only gone through half of it despite varnishing literally hundreds of models with it and also using it as a thinner/flow improver for things like washes. It's a fully adequate gloss varnish in its own right, of course, but the real dealmaker is the fact that you aren't paying the "hobby product" pisstake markup.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 23:50
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:I haven't tested it yet, but my plan is 1) use Tamiya fine gray, since people say it's very forgiving about weather (esp humidity), 2) prime in the garage so it's not quite as cold, 3) only take my stuff out for long enough to spray them. The last bit means my apartment will probably smell a bit like propellant, but nowhere near as bad as priming indoors. Hm. I've got all krylon primers for now, not sure if I'll buy Tamiya just for weather. It's about 3C in my garage at mid afternoon so, while yes, it is warmer than actually being outside, it's not appreciably so. Certainly less windy though. I've had the cans indoors all day so they're probably at like 19C?
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2015 00:10
|
|
|
Does Dullcote come in bottles bigger than those tiny little spray bottles?
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2015 00:59
|
|
|
Hauki posted:Hm. I've got all krylon primers for now, not sure if I'll buy Tamiya just for weather. It's about 3C in my garage at mid afternoon so, while yes, it is warmer than actually being outside, it's not appreciably so. Certainly less windy though. I've had the cans indoors all day so they're probably at like 19C? You should be fine if you go into your garage, spray, and take them back inside to dry. But test it out first to be sure.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2015 01:07
|
|
|
Iron Crowned posted:Does Dullcote come in bottles bigger than those tiny little spray bottles? By spray bottles do you mean aerosol cans? If so, I'm not aware of any spray cans that are larger than those little ones to which you refer. You can buy dullcote in regular bottles which will probably get you a lot more volume for your money, but then you have to brush or airbrush it on. Avenging Dentist posted:You should be fine if you go into your garage, spray, and take them back inside to dry. But test it out first to be sure. One little trick I discovered with the "dry inside" plan is to put them in your bathroom with the door closed and the exhaust fan on. That way you avoid smelling the fumes too much. This assumes you have a bathroom with an exhaust fan, obv.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2015 02:06
|
|
|
Almost done with my French greatswords. Here's a preview of the flag:  EDIT: And done! 
JackMann fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Nov 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2015 05:12
|
|
|
JackMann posted:Almost done with my French greatswords. Nice work. What game are these for?
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2015 16:14
|
|
|
I ordered a Sotar 2020 for $87 on Amazon just now. That's a good deal, right?
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2015 19:56
|
|
|
Has anyone used GW's Agrellan Earth crackle paint? What's the verdict?
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2015 21:29
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:Has anyone used GW's Agrellan Earth crackle paint? What's the verdict? It's OK if you want a shitload of desert bases in a hurry. Put it on a dark brown coat like Scorched Brown for best effect.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2015 21:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 09:41 |
|
|
Z the IVth posted:Has anyone used GW's Agrellan Earth crackle paint? What's the verdict? I like it, but it's a little fragile. Also, don't expect it to fill gaps--I used it on some DZC models, with five 10mm dudes on a stand, and it didn't completely obscure the rings where the parts met.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2015 21:39
|
|