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Made a marking gauge from walnut and arctic silver birch. Still need a blade for it.  
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Nov 19, 2015 20:54
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| # ? May 16, 2024 06:09 |
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Nice looking gauge. What will you use for the blade? Made a phone stand/horn speaker based on Dustin Penner's design. This was a test to see if it works well enough to make nicer versions and it does. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoA6sP5U00s
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Nov 20, 2015 06:14
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Interesting, I'd like something like that sometimes in my car so i can listen to podcasts on my phone, don't have any jacks on my car radio to plug te phone into. I am thinking I might cut up an old broken table saw blade and fashion a blade from that. Bought an adapter for my lathe too, it has a weirdo rare threading (7/8x12tpi) and the adapter will allow me to use 3/4x16tpi stuff, which is supposedly a common threading in the UK and perhaps elsewhere too. And I found a 960 rpm motor so I could get the speed down a lot now. Though I still want a VFD. Perhaps I should start by looking at some turning chisels though, so far I have only used a 12mm bench chisel for all my turning.
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Nov 20, 2015 13:38
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wormil posted:Nice looking gauge. What will you use for the blade? Nice, hadn't seen that design before. I wanted to make a horn style one as a christmas gift for my mom, but without a lathe that would have been tricky. This looks like a nice alternative. I wonder how the levels scale with size or radius of the inside curve.
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Nov 20, 2015 14:30
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I got the tapered channel cut and all the hardware mortised in. This is a satisfying sound: https://www.instagram.com/p/-TrtDeFSNC/
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Nov 20, 2015 15:47
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bimmian posted:Nice, hadn't seen that design before. I wanted to make a horn style one as a christmas gift for my mom, but without a lathe that would have been tricky. This looks like a nice alternative. I wonder how the levels scale with size or radius of the inside curve. Lathe? What am I missing here?
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Nov 20, 2015 15:48
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wormil posted:Nice looking gauge. What will you use for the blade? I've made a few different styles of these. I really like this one. Simple.
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Nov 20, 2015 16:07
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Mr. Mambold posted:Lathe? What am I missing here? Like a classic horn, just with a slot for the phone to sit in at the end. 
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Nov 20, 2015 16:15
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bimmian posted:Like a classic horn, just with a slot for the phone to sit in at the end. Ah. I'm picturing that as a carryaround for the elderly/hard of hearing (not me!)
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Nov 20, 2015 16:18
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mds2 posted:I got the tapered channel cut and all the hardware mortised in. Cool, and how did you finally do it? bimmian posted:I wonder how the levels scale with size or radius of the inside curve. I'm sure there are audio guys who know the answer but I might experiment a bit and see for myself. I believe, ideally the horn's smallest end should closely match the phone speaker but that is tricky without folding the speaker and at some point you are making it more complicated than it's worth because no matter what the sound will always be thin and tinny. I think you get to the point fairly quickly where it's simpler to build a Bluetooth speaker and improve the sound.
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Nov 20, 2015 21:27
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wormil posted:Cool, and how did you finally do it? CNC machine.
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Nov 20, 2015 21:53
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Started installing this on Monday and finished today, all Walnut (~300 board foot). I'm really terrible at remembering to take (good) pictures and they had already covered up the 6'x10' landing, 10 treads above and a 26' balcony but I'll grab some better pictures of those after it's stained when I go back to cap the railings in Walnut. Hard to see in the picture, but the outside edge of the finished treads is a continuous 1 3/4" block design that flows up the entire stair and around the landing/balcony. It was a pain in the rear end keeping everything exactly straight and square considering the framing and drywall wasn't done very well. You can kind of see the upper set protruding beyond the wall. Recessed baseboard is pretty slick too, don't get to see it very often, but they stop the drywall 5 or 6 inches off the floor and the baseboard goes directly on to the studs below it causing it to run flush with the wall instead of on top.  
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Nov 21, 2015 02:28
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Walnut sewing desk. All joinery done by hand. The leg has a tenon and each foot has half the mortise, they are fit together and pegged. The stretcher, battens, and legs all interlock. This was in a book and with a sketch of the size and construction details. I redrew it to scale and printed full size patterns for the legs and feet.
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Nov 21, 2015 03:45
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wormil posted:Walnut sewing desk. All joinery done by hand. The leg has a tenon and each foot has half the mortise, they are fit together and pegged. The stretcher, battens, and legs all interlock. This was in a book and with a sketch of the size and construction details. I redrew it to scale and printed full size patterns for the legs and feet. drat, that is one nice table.
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Nov 21, 2015 09:12
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wormil posted:Walnut sewing desk. All joinery done by hand. The leg has a tenon and each foot has half the mortise, they are fit together and pegged. The stretcher, battens, and legs all interlock. This was in a book and with a sketch of the size and construction details. I redrew it to scale and printed full size patterns for the legs and feet. The mortice in the feet goes ask the way down to the pegs at the bottom?  how thick are the legs? How stable is it laterally? More pictures if possible please, that's great.Stairs: that's going to look amazing when they finish around it, I like the block edges.
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Nov 21, 2015 09:38
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Cakefool posted:The mortice in the feet goes ask the way down to the pegs at the bottom? Lateral stability is excellent. There is a tiny amount of sway but if you push hard enough to rack it the desk slides. The material is 7/8" ish.
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Nov 21, 2015 17:55
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wormil posted:Walnut sewing desk. All joinery done by hand. The leg has a tenon and each foot has half the mortise, they are fit together and pegged. The stretcher, battens, and legs all interlock. This was in a book and with a sketch of the size and construction details. I redrew it to scale and printed full size patterns for the legs and feet. That's lovely. I know the near piece isn't bookmatched, but it really looks it.
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Nov 21, 2015 19:25
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General woodworking question. I have two broken kitchen drawers that I want to replace myself with some simple pocket hole assembly. I can re-use the front face on my drawers so I'd only need to make the frame and use the same bottom again. The bottom is set in a dado groove. My question is what can I use to make a dado groove? All I own is a double bevel miter saw and a circular saw. Am I SOL? Do I need to buy a table saw? Thanks in advance for the advice!
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Nov 21, 2015 21:00
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HamHawkes posted:General woodworking question. I have two broken kitchen drawers that I want to replace myself with some simple pocket hole assembly. I can re-use the front face on my drawers so I'd only need to make the frame and use the same bottom again. The bottom is set in a dado groove. My question is what can I use to make a dado groove? All I own is a double bevel miter saw and a circular saw. Am I SOL? Do I need to buy a table saw? Thanks in advance for the advice! Just make a cut that is the right depth. If it's too narrow just make another cut right next to it.
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Nov 21, 2015 21:30
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Deedle posted:If your circular saw has a depth of cut adjustment, it can make the dado for the bottom. You'll of course want to hold the piece in some kind of jig so the shoe of the saw is fully supported. Don't try to freehand this.
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Nov 21, 2015 21:50
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Yeah, do something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNX9Y2cyRhk
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Nov 21, 2015 21:57
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Cakefool posted:More pictures if possible please, that's great. More pics as promised. http://imgur.com/a/uS5Fu
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Nov 21, 2015 22:17
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Deedle posted:If your circular saw has a depth of cut adjustment, it can make the dado for the bottom. TooMuchAbstraction posted:You'll of course want to hold the piece in some kind of jig so the shoe of the saw is fully supported. Don't try to freehand this. Thanks for the tips. If it doesn't have a cut adjustment my next step is an investment right?
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Nov 21, 2015 23:11
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wormil posted:More pics as promised. Ooh, I see. thanks. I like the contrasting dowels idea, I've wondered how dark dowels would look in light woods.
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Nov 21, 2015 23:24
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HamHawkes posted:Thanks for the tips. If it doesn't have a cut adjustment my next step is an investment right? They all have depth adjustment screws. Figure out where it is, set it to around 3/8th. Your next investment could be $15 or whatever for a rip fence for it to bump over 1/8th inch, which is typical blade width +-. Typical drawer bottom thickness is 1/4".
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Nov 21, 2015 23:32
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wormil posted:More pics as promised. Very nice, great grain selection/placement. What finish did you use on the walnut? If you didn't say it was walnut I would have guessed it was some sort of mahogany.
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Nov 22, 2015 00:32
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Wiping varnish.
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Nov 22, 2015 01:47
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Speaking of finishes: I slapped together a little desk for my couch, it's freakin' great, it's all custom fit for my particular slouch on just the couch in front of my tv, which is the monitor for my computer, so I have this nice 36" wide 14" deep command center for playing games all night, I love it, way better than the salvaged keyboard tray I'd been setting on my lap as a lap tray for the last decade or whatever. Anyhow, the surface is MDF, which is nice for a very non-grained, soft-but-not-fuzzy feel, my mouse tracks well on it, etc. But I want to seal it up with some sort of finish to keep from getting too much cheetos oil stains on it. Any suggestions for something that will protect it from such contaminants but not make it a non-breathing plastic-y surface? Currently thinking just a couple light coats of poly and calling it good, I don't imagine that'll spoil it too much and will offer a little protection, but if there's a better choice, I'm all ears.
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Nov 22, 2015 01:52
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Bad Munki posted:Speaking of finishes: I slapped together a little desk for my couch, it's freakin' great, it's all custom fit for my particular slouch on just the couch in front of my tv, which is the monitor for my computer, so I have this nice 36" wide 14" deep command center for playing games all night, I love it, way better than the salvaged keyboard tray I'd been setting on my lap as a lap tray for the last decade or whatever. Anyhow, the surface is MDF, which is nice for a very non-grained, soft-but-not-fuzzy feel, my mouse tracks well on it, etc. But I want to seal it up with some sort of finish to keep from getting too much cheetos oil stains on it. Any suggestions for something that will protect it from such contaminants but not make it a non-breathing plastic-y surface? MDF is the Devil's creation. Fight fire with evil fire and formica it, at least the top. Can't get more non-breathing plastic-y than that.
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Nov 22, 2015 03:50
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Yeah, I hate MDF, but it makes for a nice surface for skin contact. But as I said: I want to finish it with something that WON'T make it plastic-y and non-breathing, i.e. I WANT the surface properties it has. But I also want to protect it a little. For laughs, here's what I've been using as a lap tray for literally a decade, it's a flip out keyboard tray I salvaged off an old desk:  And here's what I upgraded to, 36" of Couch Command Center glory, good for marathon sessions of whatever the flavor of the month is from Steam, wide enough for 1.5 people:  The structure is all A/B 3/4" birch ply. The veneer grain doesn't run the way I would like on those diagonals because I was trying to use up scraps, oh well. The surface is, as stated, 3/4" MDF, composing a 5" deep horizontal portion across the back with a cupholder, and a 13" deep slightly-inclined main surface. And I retroactively put it in onshape for a friend across the country, if anyone wants it for the hell of it. Easy to make taller or shorter by just lengthening the two 4" wide verticals on the sides: http://tinyurl.com/CouchCommand Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Nov 22, 2015 |
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Nov 22, 2015 04:08
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I really like shellac now that I finally got some. Dries so fast. The clear wax free stuff seems cleaner than the "lemon" I used on my workbench top, like there are bug parts in it and in the jar I see it's separated into an oily layer on top.
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Nov 22, 2015 09:12
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, I hate MDF, but it makes for a nice surface for skin contact. But as I said: I want to finish it with something that WON'T make it plastic-y and non-breathing, i.e. I WANT the surface properties it has. But I also want to protect it a little. Sorry, misread. Yeah probably poly is the way to go.
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Nov 22, 2015 15:57
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Repost from the osha thread. Seems like they were onto something back then
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Nov 22, 2015 19:33
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want
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Nov 22, 2015 19:34
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I like how in the 50's, literally every woodworker smoked a pipe. Also I want to live in the world where things like that, and these, exist.
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Nov 22, 2015 21:19
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bimmian posted:Repost from the osha thread. Seems like they were onto something back then Mobile carpentry shop aside, how does she get out of that little cockpit thing?
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Nov 22, 2015 23:36
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Maybe they use the ladder that's strapped to the side to get her out.
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Nov 23, 2015 00:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Mobile carpentry shop aside, how does she get out of that little cockpit thing?
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Nov 23, 2015 00:29
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Unless there is a kitchen up there she probably needs to get out
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Nov 23, 2015 00:40
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Mobile carpentry shop aside, how does she get out of that little cockpit thing? The wife is in the back, hidden from view, making coffee and sandwiches. That also explains why the ladder is stowed in such a place that the "driver" can't reach it.
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Nov 23, 2015 01:01
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