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That's kinda what the loudness switch is for.
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Nov 14, 2015 22:40
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Abel Wingnut posted:i've got a marantz 2270. ok to turn the eq knobs past 12 o'clock or am i adding to/coloring the sound? i have to admit it sounds better with higher eq and lower volume than lower eq and higher volume. It depends on the type of eq it's equipped with. Some boost the signal, others only subtract. I think the terms are active and passive eq. Not sure if it's going to be a really noticeable difference though.
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Nov 14, 2015 22:41
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SnakePlissken posted:Stopped in at Gravity Records in Wilmington NC the other day, found some nice records, good conversation, and discovered the Spin Clean. Decided to step up. Question, what formula does one use for the fluid for this? I use a mix of about 1/3 alc, 2/3 purified water and the teeniest, tiniest measure of dish detergent in my current method. I just use the spin clean fluid.
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Nov 15, 2015 00:38
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I am looking for ideas to isolate my turntable. We have wood floors that are pretty vibration prone. I can hear a bit of footfall, but not enough to skip the needle. It's not terminal, but definitely annoying. Searching elsewhere brings up too much audiophile madness. Also, my speakers are not on the same surface as the turntable.
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Nov 16, 2015 05:20
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I've heard of people doing wall mounts for their turntable.
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Nov 16, 2015 05:48
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I wall-mounted a whole Ikea Kallax shelf system (4 units) with a bunch of extra brackets for stability, and put my turntable on it. Now I can jump all over the place and it doesn't pick up any noise at all. You don't have to go all in line that, but a solid wall mounted shelf will work great, especially if you mount it on a brick wall.
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Nov 16, 2015 08:01
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This isn't really vintage specific as a question, but my gear is, and I figure that this is the right place to ask stereo people. If this isn't the right place, I apologize. I have my stereo (Marantz 2240 / Technics SL1200) set up in my dining room under my thermostat and I get incredibly loud popping and cracking noises whenever my furnace turns on. My outlets appear to be wired correctly and there is dedicated conduit run to the furnace. Can anyone recommend a power conditioner (or other solution) that could help eliminate these horrible popping and cracking noises? It makes my stereo unusable while the furnace is on. I've resorted to turning my thermostat way down so I don't get the noises while playing a record, but I'd rather not have to adjust my thermostat to play records.
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Nov 18, 2015 21:03
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crazyfish posted:I've resorted to turning my thermostat way down so I don't get the noises while playing a record, but I'd rather not have to adjust my thermostat to play records. Who needs a furnace when you have the warmth of a vinyl record?
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Nov 18, 2015 21:08
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Is the noise only there when you play LPs, can you try out another source and see if it still happens? A phono cartridge is a highly sensitive electromechanical device that turns minute vibrations into equally minute electrical signals, which are then amplified by a large amount to a level that is usable by an amplifier. The normal output level for an MM cartridge is around 4mV, compared to 2V for normal line level, such as a CD player. For MC cartridges it's even lower, around 0.5mV. So any sort of electrical or magnetic interference can definitely cause noise issues. Your only solution may be to move the stereo away from the thermostat.
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Nov 18, 2015 21:13
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^^^This. It's the same thing with resonance issues caused by speaker placement relative to your turntable. It's not grounding or power conditioning. TT cartridges are just sensitive to EM interference and that affects where you can put them.
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Nov 18, 2015 21:18
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It happens with any source, sorry that wasn't clear.
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Nov 18, 2015 23:02
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Oooooh. Maybe there's light or failing shielding somewhere inside the receiver?
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Nov 19, 2015 06:18
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Super basic question here but, how do I know if its time to replace my needle/cart or drive belt on my table? Everything I've played for the past couple days has sounded super 'wobbly' and gross and I'm trying to figure out what I need to fix here.
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Nov 21, 2015 21:22
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The guideline I've heard is somewhere between 1000 and 2000 playback hours, but who actually bothers to count the hours? The best thing you can do is to get a cheap microscope or high powered loupe, and visually check the stylus tip. It could be worn down, or just in need of a good clean.
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Nov 21, 2015 21:45
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I have a friend who bought a mechanical tally counter and keeps it by his turntable. He clicks it every time he plays a side. Very easy way of tracking play time.
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Nov 21, 2015 21:56
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KozmoNaut posted:The guideline I've heard is somewhere between 1000 and 2000 playback hours, but who actually bothers to count the hours? No cheap microscope or high-powered loupe is not good enough to show you the actual tip well enough to distinguish wear. In fact most non-cheap microscopes aren't. You'd need an expensive one. e: Also, how are you going to determine wear on a stylus tip unless you've examined it before wear? 3D Megadoodoo fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Nov 21, 2015 |
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Nov 21, 2015 22:00
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Yeah I don't know how long this one was used before I got it, either, my dad just gave it to me 'cause he was getting rid of it. Might as well just drop the ~$60 or whatever and get a new cart and belt and be done with it.
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Nov 21, 2015 22:18
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Jerry Cotton posted:No cheap microscope or high-powered loupe is not good enough to show you the actual tip well enough to distinguish wear. In fact most non-cheap microscopes aren't. You'd need an expensive one. That's odd, because my cheap eBay microscope works fine. And if you know how an elliptical etc. needle should look, it's not that hard to see if it's worn down.
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Nov 21, 2015 22:54
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crazyfish posted:Can anyone recommend a power conditioner (or other solution) that could help eliminate these horrible popping and cracking noises? It makes my stereo unusable while the furnace is on. I've resorted to turning my thermostat way down so I don't get the noises while playing a record, but I'd rather not have to adjust my thermostat to play records. A double-conversion UPS would isolate you from anything weird, the smallest APC smart-ups you can buy would probably suffice. If you don't care about using it when the power's off, buy one used and just turn off the battery alarm-- it will still do the ac-dc-ac conversion to isolate you without issue. Qwijib0 fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Nov 22, 2015 |
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Nov 22, 2015 00:15
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I'm trying to unfreeze the tonearm assembly for a Technics SL-QL1. What's a safe lubricant to use on this thing? Already replaced the rubber belt for it, but the thing is stuck on the tracks from twenty-plus years of storage. In the meantime it works great if you only want to listen to 20 seconds of music just past the start of the first track on any 12 inch disc! 
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Nov 27, 2015 18:37
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I've replaced the belt, cleaned and lubed the spindle, and cleaned the potentiometers a half-dozen times, and my SL-23 still has a wobble. Last night it kept altering between two speeds requiring opposite ends of the pitch adjust knob to tune. I think my next step is replacing the capacitors. I'll have to dig up some local place to buy single-digit quantities of electrical components. Or maybe convince my friend to steal them from work. It's been ages since I did any soldering work, but these joints look big and easy.
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Nov 27, 2015 19:37
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Captain Blaargh posted:I'm trying to unfreeze the tonearm assembly for a Technics SL-QL1. What's a safe lubricant to use on this thing? Already replaced the rubber belt for it, but the thing is stuck on the tracks from twenty-plus years of storage. I clean all the old stuff with alcohol, gotta get all the old grease out. Then I used a product called phono lube. I'm sure you could use white lithum but I just use the phono lube.
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Nov 27, 2015 21:34
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TooLShack posted:I clean all the old stuff with alcohol, gotta get all the old grease out. Then I used a product called phono lube. I'm sure you could use white lithum but I just use the phono lube. Many thanks. I'll have to grab some next week. Looks like it will be good for when I get to working on my 4 track reel to reel too. Edit: And the alcohol freed it right up. Can't wait to try this thing out again once it's relubed. Edit edit: Bonus Vintage Eye Candy. Found this little thing for less than a dollar at a shop almost right across the street from me. 
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Nov 27, 2015 22:05
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Qwijib0 posted:A double-conversion UPS would isolate you from anything weird, the smallest APC smart-ups you can buy would probably suffice. If you don't care about using it when the power's off, buy one used and just turn off the battery alarm-- it will still do the ac-dc-ac conversion to isolate you without issue. Thanks for this. I ran some more tests and found two new points: 1) After plugging my stereo into a totally different outlet with a huge extension cord, I no longer get pops with arbitrary sources. It's ugly running a giant cord across my living room but it's better than horrible popping noises ruining my record listening sessions. 2) Under the same conditions as #1, I get the pops when the thermostat comes on...but only for a brief period, and only when playing records (not with aux, radio, etc.). Since my turntable is right under the thermostat I suspect that if I moved it to the other side of my receiver, the pops would hopefully go away if the wires are routed like I think they are. So given #1 and #2, I should be able to solve the problem with a combination of a smart-ups and moving the turntable (or thermostat). Thanks for all your help!
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Nov 30, 2015 22:49
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So I just bought this (what I think) is a Kenwood KD-2055 sight unseen at an auction  Paid $25. Good deal? (photos are theirs, not mine)
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Dec 1, 2015 02:41
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Great deal, if I remember those are semi auto, and the return feature is a loaded spring slowed down by a impeller immersed in a thing oil.
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Dec 1, 2015 03:33
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My 16-year-old component CD player died in a move. I have a Marantz 2245 powering Axiom m22 speakers. What's a good option if I'm crazy and willing to spend up to $400 on a near-dead format?
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Dec 1, 2015 05:22
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If you absolutely must buy a new player, I'd go for an NAD C516BEE or something, mostly because NAD have never let me down. It'll also play MP3 files and stuff. But really, it's actually super hard to buy a bad CD player.
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Dec 1, 2015 09:54
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Chaucer posted:My 16-year-old component CD player died in a move. I have a Marantz 2245 powering Axiom m22 speakers. What's a good option if I'm crazy and willing to spend up to $400 on a near-dead format? The Onkyo C-7030 gets good reviews and is under $200, add a Schitt Modi 2 Uber for $149 and you're under budget. spookygonk fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Dec 1, 2015 |
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Dec 1, 2015 15:28
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spookygonk posted:The Onkyo C-7030 gets good reviews and is under $200, add a Schitt Modi 2 Uber for $149 and you're under budget. Why would you need a DAC to plug a cd player into a receiver with rca cables? Not trying to be a shithead, is there a reason?
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Dec 1, 2015 15:49
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Obviously you need to get a launch PS1.
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Dec 1, 2015 15:52
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BigFactory posted:Why would you need a DAC to plug a cd player into a receiver with rca cables? Not trying to be a shithead, is there a reason? Because if it comes in a separate box, it must be better!  An external DAC for a CD player is completely pointless and a waste of money.
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Dec 1, 2015 16:09
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Thanks everyone. I was looking at the NAD and Marantz CD5005, but the Onkyo is way more reasonable.
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Dec 1, 2015 19:02
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Or like a $20 DVD player.
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Dec 2, 2015 01:09
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I'm buying parts to replace the capacitors on my SL-23. I found a great guide to tuning up this table. The guide mentions replacing six capacitors. I verified that the capacitors on my board match those of the guide and found a place to purchase them. However, there are more capacitors that aren't mentioned in the guide. They're a different type, in the brown casing instead of the blue. Are these worth replacing? One reads "473J IH:Y:" and the other reads "473K 50 ". If I'm reading the code right, the first is is 0.047 uF and 50V, I'm not sure what voltage the second one is at. There's also three more tiny, brown capacitors whose numbers are hard to read.Then there's the other circuit board where the power comes in. It's got a small handful of components, too. Any of those worth replacing? I'm tempted to just replace all the blues I can find (seven total, including the big one on the mains board), but figured I'd ask first. Crappy pictures here: http://imgur.com/a/GJxOe Any other advice is welcome. ColdPie fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Dec 2, 2015 |
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Dec 2, 2015 01:31
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TomR posted:Or like a $20 DVD player. DVD players are almost always bad CD players. And I mean bad in a practical sense. Almost as bad as B&O CD players.
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Dec 2, 2015 11:14
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Jerry Cotton posted:DVD players are almost always bad CD players. And I mean bad in a practical sense. Almost as bad as B&O CD players. Bad as in you cant see what track is playing or you don't have functionality like shuffle and stuff like that? I have a couple of DVD players I use as CD players and the sound is great. But the ease of use isn't awesome.
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Dec 2, 2015 13:37
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BigFactory posted:Bad as in you cant see what track is playing or you don't have functionality like shuffle and stuff like that? I have a couple of DVD players I use as CD players and the sound is great. But the ease of use isn't awesome. They often don't read CDs very well.
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Dec 2, 2015 13:43
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Jerry Cotton posted:They often don't read CDs very well. That's news to me. Never had an issue.
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Dec 2, 2015 14:35
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BigFactory posted:That's news to me. Never had an issue. Sell it to Chaucer for $20 
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Dec 2, 2015 15:00
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