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It has to do with the larger melt zone. You need to experiment with retraction settings for the filament you use. The .4mm nozzle was kind of a double-edged thing because while the volcano could certainly handle it, the stepper motor couldn't keep up on my Robo 3D R1. Also never run filler filaments in the .4, filaments where drying out is detrimental (woodfills, etc.) will clog in a matter of minutes in the volcano unless you go big on the nozzle.
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Nov 24, 2015 11:23
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Nill posted:FunFact: e3d nozzles work in Printrbot's metal ubis hotend. My Play came with the Ubis. Purchased in July.
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Nov 24, 2015 15:29
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How much different is Colorfabb XT from the other PET(G)s? Is it worth the surplus in price?
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Nov 24, 2015 19:54
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IndianaZoidberg posted:Looks like Printrbot.com is having a blackfriday sale. So I went to their website to see what they got and to my surprise they are now selling X and Z upgrade kits that bump your Simple Metal to a 10x6x10in print area with both installed. I have been dying for a few more inches (dick joke) on my Simple Metal but can't afford a new printer. So this might be a good compromise. The 10x6 XY is all I really need I think since almost everything I print is under 5in. And they are selling it for a bit over $100. That will be a pretty sweet upgrade. I like that it just adds width. So many of the aftermarket beds just seemed to overextend the already cantilevered Y axis.
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Nov 25, 2015 01:42
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After looking at the ninjaflex and other flexible filaments all day today: I'm gonna print so many things with that.
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Nov 25, 2015 02:39
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helno posted:That will be a pretty sweet upgrade. I like that it just adds width. So many of the aftermarket beds just seemed to overextend the already cantilevered Y axis. Its also kind of funny to look at a Simple Metal that has that upgrade because the bed is almost comically oversized.
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Nov 25, 2015 02:47
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A spool of Colorfabb's new nGen stuff is here. Too bad I have to head to work soon, because I can't wait to try it.
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Nov 27, 2015 14:59
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Combat Pretzel posted:A spool of Colorfabb's new nGen stuff is here. Too bad I have to head to work soon, because I can't wait to try it. anywhere you can get that in the US right now?
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Nov 27, 2015 20:41
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Not sure. Ordered from Colorfabb directly.
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Nov 28, 2015 00:34
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Reporting in on the $250 sunhokey printer: it's alright! First print after eyeballing bed level & extrusion settings (PLA with no fan, adding a blower ASAP):  And the thing all together as it sits right now:  I have a bit of work dialing in good printing profiles for the bowden setup, but it's going to be a totally acceptable first printer for home use.
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Nov 30, 2015 05:33
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Yea, it's a pretty decent first printer. I did go through the semi-official firmware, and it's just a config of Marlin - nothing special. So I migrated the settings into the Prusa3D branch of Marlin, as it has a working M600 implementation that works with their ColorPrint app. You can find that here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_7o8mixCvMmTTVhUzduSXMzVzg/view?usp=sharing You'll still need to calibrate your E-Steps, and probably PID tune the hotend. ColorPrint info: http://prusaprinters.org/colorprint-is-out/
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Nov 30, 2015 06:45
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Crain posted:anywhere you can get that in the US right now? came across this: http://printedsolid.com/collections/1-75mm-filament/products/ngen
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Nov 30, 2015 23:09
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Finally broke down and ordered a Makerfarm Pegasus 8" kit, anyone else have one of these yet? I'm pretty psyched to finally get into this world. If I can get quality prints out of it by the end of the year I'll be quite happy. Is there a chart anywhere listing known good\bad brands of filament? I'm interested in ABS mostly, but I've heard PLA is better to start with. Not sure if there are any good sales still on, but I'd pick up a couple kilos to get a good price. 1.75mm. Lots of practice prints to do. Frys Electronics stocks MG Chemicals and Shaxon filament. I was curious about their quality, mostly since it's local and I could grab a spool in 20 minutes if needed. peepsalot posted:I designed this PSU cover for 3D printer power supplies Totally going to make this. It looks so clean and neat.
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Dec 1, 2015 05:22
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PirateDentist posted:Totally going to make this. It looks so clean and neat. Thanks. Keep in mind its made specifically for the 12V 30A supplies as sold by OpenBuilds, other supplies with different ratings or from other factories might not line up with screw holes, or fit over the end at all, requiring a different printed part.
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Dec 1, 2015 19:58
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TwystNeko posted:Yea, it's a pretty decent first printer. I did go through the semi-official firmware, and it's just a config of Marlin - nothing special. So I migrated the settings into the Prusa3D branch of Marlin, as it has a working M600 implementation that works with their ColorPrint app. You can find that here: Thanks, that's very helpful. I'm waiting patiently for a glass plate & tweaking what I can in the interim. I can't quite get the extruder close enough to the bed with the stock arrangement + e3d v6 knockoff (significantly shorter than the stock hot end), but it'll be perfect with the glass.
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Dec 2, 2015 04:24
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Oh boy! My printer is coming thursday. Can't wait. Gonna make so much stupid poo poo.
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Dec 2, 2015 05:11
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peepsalot posted:Thanks. Keep in mind its made specifically for the 12V 30A supplies as sold by OpenBuilds, other supplies with different ratings or from other factories might not line up with screw holes, or fit over the end at all, requiring a different printed part. Noted. I ordered a 40A version mentioned in the thread for a little extra overhead. I'll do some measuring first. Crain posted:Gonna make so much stupid poo poo. You and me both. I've got a huge backlog of stupid stuff on thingiverse to tide me over while I'm learning how to use Fusion 360. Ordered a spool of WYZ ABS and and some Inland PETG to try out. I think all I need now is some wire and a glass build plate.
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Dec 3, 2015 01:45
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Makerbot replicator and a lot of elbow grease used to produce a movie quality cyberman helmet and makes a ridiculously detailed process log. http://www.zbrushcentral.com/showthread.php?196446-Fan-Art-3D-Printed-Doctor-Who-Cyberman-Helmet 
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Dec 3, 2015 01:56
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Finally got my glass plate & poo poo is happening now: Pretty proud as these are the ONLY attempts I've made with the printer at various calibration steps.
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Dec 3, 2015 02:59
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SynthOrange posted:movie quality Considering that the source is Doctor Who, this really isn't saying much.
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Dec 3, 2015 04:48
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That's badass. Dude knows what he's doing 
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Dec 3, 2015 07:16
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So has anyone used any 3d scanners? I've bene looking at the bq Ciclop, since it's all open source/arduino based there are knockoffs on Aliexpress for about $150. Or I could print the parts myself (one is kinda tall though, have to split it), and get the electronics for $50 or so (also from Aliexpress). Someone recommended the DAVID laser scanner program but it looks like its gone full on $2000 commercial license now. Plus I want something automatic.
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Dec 3, 2015 17:46
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As mentioned, I have a rostock max v2 along with an e3d v6 hot end and a PEI sheet, all sitting in the closet for the next three weeks. What would you all recommend for my first few prints and/or getting the thing calibrated? By my reckoning, I should be good for PLA, ABS, and the new hotness, PETG, along with a host of more obscure materials. What's going to be easiest to sort out initially? Recall, this is my first personal foray into the world of 3d printing.
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Dec 3, 2015 21:55
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Bad Munki posted:As mentioned, I have a rostock max v2 along with an e3d v6 hot end and a PEI sheet, all sitting in the closet for the next three weeks. What would you all recommend for my first few prints and/or getting the thing calibrated? By my reckoning, I should be good for PLA, ABS, and the new hotness, PETG, along with a host of more obscure materials. What's going to be easiest to sort out initially? Recall, this is my first personal foray into the world of 3d printing. Be prepared to print out a million cubes of various sizes. Also, low poly pokemon. I hope your experience with a delta printer is way better than mine! At least you bought a good delta printer!
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Dec 3, 2015 22:08
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infinite99 posted:Be prepared to print out a million cubes of various sizes. I don't mind printing a million cubes. I don't know or care about no pokeymans though, I'll have to find something else.
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Dec 3, 2015 22:16
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http://minow.blogspot.ca/ Is a good guide for delta calibration. The deltabots google group is a pretty good resource as well.
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Dec 3, 2015 22:24
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PETG is the most forgiving filament, so I'd suggest printing with that. PLA acts badly if you don't cool it fast enough with a parts fan, ABS acts badly if it cools off too fast. PETG on the other hand doesn't require a parts fan and regular room temperature cooling is fine for it, just, you know, don't have it near an air conditioner vent or anything while printing. PETG runs a little slower than PLA or ABS, but the prints you get are totally worth it.
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Dec 3, 2015 22:32
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The Printrbot Metal Plus has arrived. Set up was super easy and would have been easier if I had bothered to no gently caress with the end probe and just let the software do it's thing (Printed a raft for the first part and thought it was under extruding, changed the multiplier and it was still stringy, adjusted the probe for like 20 min, realized the second layer was stringy on purpose because that's how it prints rafts...) Now I'm doing a bottle in some PLA/PHA from colorfabb I got in a sample kit. Will post results later. Also ordered some of that NGEN filament to try out. Hopefully it's as good as everyone's been saying.
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Dec 3, 2015 22:58
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Bad Munki posted:As mentioned, I have a rostock max v2 along with an e3d v6 hot end and a PEI sheet, all sitting in the closet for the next three weeks. What would you all recommend for my first few prints and/or getting the thing calibrated? By my reckoning, I should be good for PLA, ABS, and the new hotness, PETG, along with a host of more obscure materials. What's going to be easiest to sort out initially? Recall, this is my first personal foray into the world of 3d printing. I just followed the manual and had it printing PLA decently enough to print the parts fan pretty much on the first go. Just take your time with the calibration instructions and don't be afraid to re-do them.
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Dec 4, 2015 00:22
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All righty, I just ordered a kilo each of black PLA and clear ABS wyz filament off eBay, should be here next week, here's hoping they don't suck come Christmas! Gonna grab some PETG somewhere, but I don't know what color(s) I might like to have. Is it ill advised to hunt down a sampler pack of various colors of the stuff? Like, will I constantly be annoyed at changing filament and I should just pick a color, or does that seem like an okay way to get started? Also, any preferred (US) sellers/brands? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Dec 4, 2015 |
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Dec 4, 2015 21:23
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Oh man. I just got through with installing the E3D V6 on the Solidoodle3 at work. gently caress me that is an annoying install. The V6 assembly is just fine, splicing the thermister and heat cartridge to the connectors from the old hot end went ok. But updating the firmware? gently caress that. Like half the links in the solidoodle wiki are broken and the process relies on using purposefully out of date versions of common software. It got done in the end but gently caress ever doing that again. Now I have to actually calibrate the nozzle in order to print some new hardware to make it work better (extended z-stop, new extruder carriage since it turns out the current one is just barely holding on). At least I have my new printer at home that I can just make work. Although now I'm REeeeeeealy not interested in going through the effort to install an E3D V6 on the printrbot. For now at least.
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Dec 4, 2015 22:59
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Bad Munki posted:Gonna grab some PETG somewhere, but I don't know what color(s) I might like to have. Is it ill advised to hunt down a sampler pack of various colors of the stuff? Like, will I constantly be annoyed at changing filament and I should just pick a color, or does that seem like an okay way to get started? Also, any preferred (US) sellers/brands? eSun, Amazon, it's like $25 and their ABS/PLA (also good for next time) is around $20. The Sunhokey rocks for $278 total outlay, I've been cranking out parts for various upgrades: Octoprint server + camera, extruder cooling setup, 40mm cold end fan shroud (having issues with heat soak w/ PETG & small parts due to retraction) & better z endstop. 
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Dec 6, 2015 01:15
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BiohazrD posted:So has anyone used any 3d scanners? I've bene looking at the bq Ciclop, since it's all open source/arduino based there are knockoffs on Aliexpress for about $150. Or I could print the parts myself (one is kinda tall though, have to split it), and get the electronics for $50 or so (also from Aliexpress). Someone recommended the DAVID laser scanner program but it looks like its gone full on $2000 commercial license now. Plus I want something automatic.
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Dec 6, 2015 03:43
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FormatAmerica posted:eSun, Amazon, it's like $25 and their ABS/PLA (also good for next time) is around $20. I just spent a whole day trying desperately to get my roll of eSun PETG to work. I'm gonna relegate that stuff to Z-Spiral vases and lamp shades now. That's the only thing I could get it to make well. Also ended up wit my z-probe/z-calibration getting hosed up today and had to spend like 3 hours adjusting it with g-code commands because suddenly my printer decided to print 3 mm off the bed. Decided to switch to bamboo-fill and suddenly everything works goddamned loving perfect. gently caress PETG. Just my two cents from today. If you don't want to spend a lot of time calibrating that loving material just find some decent PLA or something else. I've got some N-Gen from Colorfabb coming monday and we'll see how that goes, but if the current reviews are anything to go off of it'll be the go to printing material soon. Crain fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Dec 6, 2015 |
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Dec 6, 2015 05:28
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Crain posted:I just spent a whole day trying desperately to get my roll of eSun PETG to work. I'm gonna relegate that stuff to Z-Spiral vases and lamp shades now. That's the only thing I could get it to make well. Also ended up wit my z-probe/z-calibration getting hosed up today and had to spend like 3 hours adjusting it with g-code commands because suddenly my printer decided to print 3 mm off the bed. Did you do a thinwall calibration test on it? It's very picky about calibration, and runs closer to 0.85-0.88 extrusion multiplier vs the normal 0.98-1.02. Also your first layer height has to be perfect. Print it slow (40mm/sec), fat (0.2-0.3mm) and hot (250-260C), and it's then amazing stuff.
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Dec 6, 2015 06:23
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insta posted:Did you do a thinwall calibration test on it? It's very picky about calibration, and runs closer to 0.85-0.88 extrusion multiplier vs the normal 0.98-1.02. Also your first layer height has to be perfect. Did that. Went lower. I was at 60% extrusion multiplier, 20mm/s print rate, .3mm layer height. Plus retraction. plus combing. The only thing it's good at is Z-Spiral shell printing for vases and lampshades. Let me reiterate: I spend over 12 hours today going from the settings I had for PLA to almost the bare minimums that the printer would work at plus going from 220C to 255C print temp. Maybe it's the particular filament, but gently caress eSun PETG. EDIT: Maybe I'm complaining, but really. I tried everything I could to get this stuff working within my printer's capabilities. And I just bought a new printer that can reach the temps needed for this stuff. Far too much effort required for the result considering materials like NGEN and the various PLA and ABS varieties and alloys. Crain fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Dec 6, 2015 |
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Dec 6, 2015 07:19
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I print Extrudr PETG and Colorfabb nGen at 60mm/s, 0.2mm, 235°C for first and 230°C for second, bed at 80°C, and both work fine. But yeah, my extrusion multiplier is 0.93. Also nGen is also a copolyester, i.e. PETx.
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Dec 6, 2015 15:00
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I've heard similar experiences with eSun PETG but haven't used it myself, maybe theirs just sucks.
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Dec 6, 2015 15:19
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FWIW their PETG works fantastic in the Makergear M2 I use but I'm having some challenges with jamming on my printer at home - I suspect due to a combination of small features, retraction and maybe heat soak. This is a really good thread on working with PETG, same general settings should apply to any direct drive extruder setup. http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593 BiohazrD posted:So has anyone used any 3d scanners? I've been looking at the bq Ciclop...knockoffs on Aliexpress for about $150...print the parts myself (one is kinda tall though, have to split it), and get the electronics for $50. I've used a Sense and its alright for larger objects (I would not buy one for personal use), I guess a laser scanner would work a lot better for smaller objects and greater precision. Seems like printing & sourcing the other parts is the way to go! I didn't know there were any open source scanners so I may do this myself. https://github.com/bqlabs/ciclop FormatAmerica fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Dec 6, 2015 |
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Dec 6, 2015 17:10
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BiohazrD posted:So has anyone used any 3d scanners? I've bene looking at the bq Ciclop, since it's all open source/arduino based there are knockoffs on Aliexpress for about $150. Or I could print the parts myself (one is kinda tall though, have to split it), and get the electronics for $50 or so (also from Aliexpress). Someone recommended the DAVID laser scanner program but it looks like its gone full on $2000 commercial license now. Plus I want something automatic. I super briefly used a kinect with skanect. Good results, not cheap, though not $2000. Definitely not automatic.
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Dec 6, 2015 18:48
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