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Unless you were really set on AWD I don't see why you'd get one over a 2 or 3 anyway. I mean I'm sure it's a good vehicle but it's significantly smaller and slightly less economical than 3 without being cheaper and a lot more expensive than a 2.
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Nov 24, 2015 03:10
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Yeah he just seems to really like it regardless. I've already got the 3 and the CX-5 is a little too big. Just got off the phone again with the dealership and they told me they're pushing the AWD cause they're trying to compete with Subaru's AWD in their vehicles.. What. Edit: Quoted $25K+ after taxes, fees, etc. (Touring AWD). Quite a bit above what he's willing to pay. (~23K) He's leaning towards an Impreza now. Lol. hmmxkrazee fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Nov 24, 2015 |
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Nov 24, 2015 03:30
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:Has anyone had problems with the hatch latch on their 3? Mine has issues from time to time and flat refused to work the other morning (I'm guessing because it was slightly cooler out but not sure). Catching up to the thread, yeah my 2011 has had this 2 or 3 times. I've never been able to figure it out. I think it comes from the latch sensing pressure, like something pressing from the inside. Normally goes away if I shake it a little.
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Nov 24, 2015 08:37
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hmmxkrazee posted:I've got the current 3 and the CX-3 is much smaller than I thought. I knew it was smaller but there is no way 3 adults could ever sit in the backseat. The trunk is also like half the size. The CX3 is on the Mazda2 platform, though. The CX5 is the 3.
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Nov 24, 2015 19:31
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Phy posted:The CX3 is on the Mazda2 platform, though. The CX5 is the 3. That explains a lot. When I leased my 3 I first sat in a CX3 thinking "I'm a giant and this crossover might provide more room". I couldn't actually even get my knees under the steering wheel in the cx-3. Couldn't get completely in it. The 3 is roomy as hell by comparison.
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Nov 25, 2015 17:23
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This might be a stupid question, but I've been driving for a few years on my RPF1s, and I never bothered to swap the TPMS out of my stock wheels. They've just been sitting in my garage collecting dust. It's about time to get new tires, and I was planning on taking the stock wheels with me and having Discount Tire dispose of the old tires from the OEM wheels and put the TPMS into my RPF1s. Is there any reason this might not work? Are there batteries or anything in the TPMS that I would need to service or change?
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Nov 25, 2015 22:22
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I got a 2013 Mazda3 iSport in auto, that I just took to jiffy lube to get the oil changed in a hurry and they told me I needed a transmission fluid and power steering exchanges and wanted to charge me 400 for the privilege. I had the feeling this was a rip off and got the hell out of Dodge. My question is, was it a rip off and can I do it at home? I've tried looking up what fluids my care takes but its confusing, the manual doesn't seem to list them.
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Dec 4, 2015 17:38
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Quixotic1 posted:I got a 2013 Mazda3 iSport in auto, that I just took to jiffy lube to get the oil changed in a hurry and they told me I needed a transmission fluid and power steering exchanges and wanted to charge me 400 for the privilege. I had the feeling this was a rip off and got the hell out of Dodge. My question is, was it a rip off and can I do it at home? I've tried looking up what fluids my care takes but its confusing, the manual doesn't seem to list them. Not sure about the ATF, will have to look that up, but power steering exchange looks like a ripoff considering you should never need to change it unless a hose fails or a pump has to be replaced, similar to brake fluid. ATF doesn't seem to have a manufacture recommended interval from what I could find. Most people say anywhere from 30k to 60k, maybe longer. Likely depends on how you drive and how heavy you are on your go pedal. Alighieri fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Dec 4, 2015 |
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Dec 4, 2015 17:46
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Alighieri posted:Not sure about the ATF, will have to look that up, but power steering exchange looks like a ripoff considering you should never need to change it unless a hose fails or a pump has to be replaced, similar to brake fluid. Two possible ATFs in that car. Mazda M-V (which is apparently not Mercon V) for the old five-speed auto, Mazda FZ ATF if you have a Skyactiv / six-speed auto. There's actually more reason to replace brake fluid than power steering fluid. Power steering fluid only needs to be changed if something is very wrong in the system - pump / rack failure, or you've managed to absolutely cook the hell out of it. Even then it's just super-cheap ATF. The manual even calls out Dexron II, which is about as basic (and ancient) as ATF gets. Brake fluid slowly absorbs water from the air over time and should be flushed eventually. At any rate it seems that Mazda was nice enough to put a drain plug in the ATF pan so it doesn't get much easier to change.
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Dec 4, 2015 17:53
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Alighieri posted:Not sure about the ATF, will have to look that up, but power steering exchange looks like a ripoff considering you should never need to change it unless a hose fails or a pump has to be replaced, similar to brake fluid. As said above, replace brake fluid every few years. It absorbs moisture which lowers the boiling point and just gets nasty after a couple years.
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Dec 4, 2015 18:16
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But to be clear, Jiffy Lube will always tell you that you need all that
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Dec 4, 2015 18:17
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At least last time my local place tried that they actually showed me the fluid. It was only 30-35k miles (on a 2011, done maybe a year ago) but the stuff was terribly dirty, not really sure why as I don't have a heavy foot and have been doing primarily highway driving the last 2+ years. Definitely keep an eye on that one. The only plus to having a shop do it is they can use a pressurized machine to move out the old fluid and move more in until they can see it's clean - I may have been sold on a gimmick there (and didn't end up using that shop, but should've). I was also told by a shop or two that Mazda ATF changes were a serious pain and wanted to charge me more  I still think it ran me $100.
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Dec 4, 2015 18:44
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Did they show you your fluid or did they show you some fluid?
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Dec 4, 2015 19:11
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It was mine, walked out to the car in the bay and they pulled the dipstick and put some on the paper showing the 100s of dollars of services they wanted me to get. I am extremely wary of all that stuff but the other shop I had change it also said "drat, that's pretty bad" still don't know why though.
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Dec 4, 2015 19:18
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Thanks for the help everyone, looks like I'll be buying me some ATF fluid now and looks to be very simple to change as IOwnCalculus stated. To be more specific, they wanted 300 for the ATF exchange and 100 for the power steering.
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Dec 5, 2015 02:37
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Did they press you to get your injectors/fuel system cleaned too? My shop here always tries but it's pretty expensive and I don't know how necessary it really is. I ought to run a can of sea foam at some point here but besides that?
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Dec 5, 2015 03:44
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:Did they press you to get your injectors/fuel system cleaned too? My shop here always tries but it's pretty expensive and I don't know how necessary it really is. I ought to run a can of sea foam at some point here but besides that? Yup,fuel system maintenance $100. Would have wanted 140 for radiator fluid exchange but I did itself.
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Dec 5, 2015 03:54
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Quixotic1 posted:Yup,fuel system maintenance $100. Would have wanted 140 for radiator fluid exchange but I did itself. FYI, it's called engine coolant.
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Dec 5, 2015 05:08
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I was also asking generally if other people think that's a necessary service (injector cleaning). They tried to get me on the antifreeze too (my mix is heavy on water, but the mechanic was from NY and I think overestimated how cold it gets in S Texas - I'm not ever going to risk splitting the block or much else).
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Dec 5, 2015 07:07
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:I was also asking generally if other people think that's a necessary service (injector cleaning). No, it's a scam, especially with modern direct injection systems. In general, I believe most of the things mentioned above are scams as well (ATF, Power Steering, etc. flushes). I always tell people to check the manufacturers recommended service interval in the owners manual and go by that. Newer Skyactiv models are considered to have "lifetime" transaxle fluid that is not really meant to be replaced and I sure as hell wouldn't let any shop try to flush it. The new mazda fluid is not like other ATF fluids and contamination is too easy, particularly by untrained/unaware technicians. Unfortunately, many service writers are "flush bomb" specialists anymore, and are incentivized to sell as many as possible due to the high margins on these services. That's not to say every flush is a scam, Mazda recommends coolant be replaced every 60k miles for example (on the Skyactiv sedans anyway, each model has different recommendations). I say just go with what the manufacturer recommends, not what the Quick Lube says.
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Dec 5, 2015 14:31
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Sex Weirdo posted:Newer Skyactiv models are considered to have "lifetime" transaxle fluid that is not really meant to be replaced and I sure as hell wouldn't let any shop try to flush it. The new mazda fluid is not like other ATF fluids and contamination is too easy, particularly by untrained/unaware technicians. Lifetime transmission fluid means the lifetime of the transmission, until it dies because the fluid is burned to hell. All oils have a lifespan, even if the manufacturer doesn't want to call out a specific change interval. It's still going to get hot and slowly break down the additives that make it behave the way it's supposed to. Mazda is hardly the first manufacturer to try this, and won't be the last, either, because you won't run into a fluid-caused failure of the transmission during the warranty period. However, yes, a flush should be totally unnecessary, and you should only use a manufacturer-approved fluid. In some cases, manufacturers will only approve their own fluid (i.e. Honda ATF-Z1), whereas the most common domestic ATFs (Dexron III and Dexron VI, Mercon V, ATF+4) can be licensed and made by any company.
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Dec 5, 2015 14:58
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I think it is mostly about mitigating risk to the manufacturer, because I'd wager that the #1 way to gently caress up your trans is to have the wrong fluid put in. How many Quick Lube flush machines do you think are thoroughly cleaned out after using dexron, mercon, whatever before going on to use the next manufacturers ATF type? How many customers have had their fluid contaminated then come to the dealership complaining of shifting problems and getting a new transmission under warranty? I'm sure that eventually the trans will just be filled at the factory then welded shut. I know everyone has a different definition of "lifetime", but I'm just not sold on the utility of having the fluid replaced when there is such a risk involved. The ONLY thing I would personally recommend would be a drain and fill, NOT a flush, using only Mazda OEM type FV fluid.
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Dec 5, 2015 15:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:Lifetime transmission fluid means the lifetime of the transmission, until it dies because the fluid is burned to hell. All oils have a lifespan, even if the manufacturer doesn't want to call out a specific change interval. It's still going to get hot and slowly break down the additives that make it behave the way it's supposed to. Mazda is hardly the first manufacturer to try this, and won't be the last, either, because you won't run into a fluid-caused failure of the transmission during the warranty period. Yeah personally I would change the fluid every 30k miles. It will take me a very long time to trust anything "lifetime". But do it with the fluid stated in the manual obviously.
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Dec 5, 2015 20:07
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Fun fact: bottles of vw ATF have (or had) an expiration date stamp on them. On B5 passats, they sold it with a lifetime fluid when both the transmission maker (ZFl and the fluid maker said it couldn't do more than 75k mi. Lifetime transmission fluid is a scam to bring down TCO numbers.
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Dec 6, 2015 01:25
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nm posted:Fun fact: bottles of vw ATF have (or had) an expiration date stamp on them. On B5 passats, they sold it with a lifetime fluid when both the transmission maker (ZFl and the fluid maker said it couldn't do more than 75k mi. OEM's aren't allowed to call things lifetime anymore, they have to use "long term" to skirt around it
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Dec 6, 2015 07:25
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Got my first P0401 EGR Valve engine code last night at 59,600 miles. Didn't IOC or someone else on here post some photos or details about how to clean the EGR valve and tube? I read a post about cleaning them on MazdaspeedForums, but the OP had mixed results and said the code kept coming back. I'd like to try and get it right the first time and avoid buying $400 in parts, if I can.
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Dec 21, 2015 10:06
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I cleaned mine at least twice. It's just a lot of parts removal because the MS3 is so tightly packed under the hood. Once you actually get it out, you just hose the pipe out with carb cleaner, and you can do the same to the actual valve portion. I'm fairly sure that mine was due to buildup on the valve making it sticky both times. The computer can't tell how far the valve actually opens, only whether or not there's enough flow. Honestly? One thing I'd do differently would have been to order a block off for the EGR and disable it with a tune.
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Dec 21, 2015 14:44
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That is tempting, but an access port is a little more than I would like to spend right now.
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Dec 21, 2015 17:13
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What's the go-to MT fluid for a 2008.5 MS3? My brother is going to be in town for Christmas and wants to do an oil change & transmission fluid change. I'm pretty sure his car is over 70k miles on what we assume is the factory transmission fluid.
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Dec 21, 2015 19:24
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I bought the unicorn piss Ford MT when I changed mine at about 30k. I found it harder to shift and noisier than the factory fluid. I'll probably change it again when I do my brakes, coolant an and EGR since in just at 60k now. I'll probably use the Mazda OEM coolant and MT fluid this time around.
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Dec 21, 2015 22:52
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Dealer is getting me a new gas tank. Video rendition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fnsTWu0GGBg They said their was "some sort of TSB," in the mean time they picked up a rental which was nice of them.
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Dec 21, 2015 23:41
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I used the XT-M5-QS (I think that's it, the "magical Ford" fluid) and I was happy with it. However, I didn't notice any big difference in shifting... and the fluid that came out was so similar in condition / smell that I think perhaps the PO had already done it.
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Dec 21, 2015 23:41
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MetaJew posted:I bought the unicorn piss Ford MT when I changed mine at about 30k. I found it harder to shift and noisier than the factory fluid. I'll probably change it again when I do my brakes, coolant an and EGR since in just at 60k now. I'll probably use the Mazda OEM coolant and MT fluid this time around. Yeah I used that stuff too, the only difference I noticed was the diff. was noisier when cold while turning at low speeds.
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Dec 21, 2015 23:56
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The Ford "honey" MTF was my go-to, just wanted to check that there wasn't anything better for the transmission out there. Found a dealer nearby with 11 quarts in stock @ $21/quart...which isn't too bad when you consider RP Syncromesh is about $16/quart and Motul gear oil is about just as expensive.
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Dec 22, 2015 02:46
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In my MS6 I used redline full synthetic 75-90 and it was a marked improvement over the stock fluid particularly in cold Utah winters. When cleaning the egr you need to remove the turbo inlet pipe which is a horrible ugly misshapen piece of plastic and has a vacuum line on a little nipple that has a 110% change of breaking off. Plan on getting a nice COBB silicone inlet pipe which is smoother and let's you hear that sweet turbo spool and whistle better.
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Dec 22, 2015 04:46
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I'm crossing my fingers that I can keep the EGR cleaning cheap, and not break the turbo inlet vacuum nipple. Hypothetically, if I do, does it matter if I were to replace it with the Cobb or JBR or some other variant? This isn't like an intake where I would need to immediately tune it or something, right? It's not clear to me if the TIP really has any benefit other than a slightly sturdier fitting and a more attractive engine bay. That being said, the Cobb office in Austin is maybe a 20 minute drive away, so hopefully they keep those in stock. Do people use the Redline MT-90 (74W90 GL-4) or MTL (75W80 GL-4). From skimming the Mazdaspeed Forums it sounds like Mazda changed the recommendations from 75W90 in the 1st generation to 75W80 in the second generation.
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Dec 23, 2015 07:00
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For such a large long-stroke four banger the 2.5 MZR really loves to rev. I love highway on-ramps. drat I wish I had a Speed3. 
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Dec 23, 2015 07:46
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I never broke that nipple on my TIP and I had it off at least three times for sure. Probably more that I'm forgetting.
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Dec 23, 2015 15:54
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MetaJew posted:I'm crossing my fingers that I can keep the EGR cleaning cheap, and not break the turbo inlet vacuum nipple. Hypothetically, if I do, does it matter if I were to replace it with the Cobb or JBR or some other variant? This isn't like an intake where I would need to immediately tune it or something, right? It's not clear to me if the TIP really has any benefit other than a slightly sturdier fitting and a more attractive engine bay. Call a local Ford dealership nearby and bring the fluid. Saying that since when I had that done, Cobb asked me to bring a fluid I wanted to use if I wanted something that wasn't OEM.
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Dec 23, 2015 17:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:I never broke that nipple on my TIP and I had it off at least three times for sure. Probably more that I'm forgetting. I discovered the nipple was broken on mine when we put in the new Corksport intake. Somewhere in my 3rd year of ownership I think.
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Dec 24, 2015 07:34
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