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So, is it safe to assume that the bolts in the flange that connects the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust going back on a 2000 Wrangler are pressed in, as the threads stop and leave a smooth shank as the bolt passes through the flange?
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Dec 3, 2015 20:12
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My buddy has a spare 4.0 he was going to swap into his dead YJ but got a running XJ instead...any issues with swapping a '95 ZJ 4.0 into my '99 XJ? Obviously I'd keep all of my original sensors, flex plate, manifolds, head, brackets, etc.
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Dec 4, 2015 21:41
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You'll need to cut the funky little boss off of the timing cover at about the 1-2 oclock position as it will foul the 96-01 (not 97-01, they changed some things a year early) serpentine belt path otherwise. I have a 94 XJ motor in my 98 XJ, works fine. You'll also want to either leave the unused gauge temp sensor in the rear driver top of the cylinder head or replace it with a 1/8 NPT plug, since 97-01 vehicles don't use a separate gauge sender anymore. I just left the old sensor in there, it still keeps coolant in just fine with no wire hooked up, haha. Going the other way (97.5-99 motor in a 91-96) you have to drill a hole for the gauge temp sensor in the stat housing and extend its wire. 96-97.0 motors fit the entire 91-99 year range with zero modification since they don't have the timing cover boss in the way AND don't need the gauge temp sensor hole drilled since it's already there. The only real downside on the older 90s blocks is they don't have the NVH improvements in the crankcase casting, so they're slightly louder. Whatever, who cares.
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Dec 4, 2015 22:17
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Thanks. I knew I remembered reading something about having to dremel somewhere for clearance. I heard this thing fire up before it was pulled and it was insanely quiet for a 242. No lifter tick or anything. I'd like to swap it over on a lazy weekend and then put my '99 on a stand for a while in order to do a very mild stroker build.
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Dec 4, 2015 22:26
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Just a few things to remember... buy a new donut gasket for your exhaust manifold, and some grade 5 bolts to replace the pressed in studs. They're 3/8 diameter. I like to use grade 5 or cheaper as through bolts so when they seize up, you can just break them off instead of having to finagle a grinder into that tiny working space. Also put new exhaust manifold studs in the cylinder head, they're the front most and rear most bottom row fasteners. I had one break off below the surface of the head on my last 4.0 swap and it was a giant shitshow, never reusing one again. The bolts in all the other positions have never given me an issue though. Some new CCV system grommets and elbows for the valve cover wouldn't hurt either, and a new blue felpro permadry valve cover and oil pan gasket. Remember that they need to be ordered for the year of the valve cover and cylinder head bolt set, not the year of the jeep or shortblock.
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Dec 4, 2015 22:32
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I hope you don't live in an emissions testing area.
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Dec 5, 2015 06:33
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I do, but it's currently being phased out and is scheduled to be eliminated statewide by 2020.
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Dec 5, 2015 07:02
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I don't think there's any way you can pass with an OBD2 vehicle and a pre-OBD2 engine. I think technically an engine swap has to come from same or newer model year, actually, but nobody cares unless they're testing.
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Dec 5, 2015 07:35
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If he's keeping all of the engine management from the OBD2 engine, the only way someone would notice is if they're either at Kastein-level Jeep expert and can instantly identify the longblock as too old, or if they checked engine serial numbers. Here, the latter only gets done if they specifically have reason to believe something is stolen / are doing an inspection for that purpose, not just emissions.
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Dec 5, 2015 15:09
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I think those rotating assemblies are the same, the biggest issue would be having the right bosses on the block tapped for your engine mounts/accessories. I have two 4.0 blocks in my possession, both from Wranglers of different years, and they have different bosses tapped. I didn't have any issues mounting the new one, as it had all of the bosses as the old block plus more tapped. The newer one came with one of the engine mount brackets still bolted on, and it was completely different from what my TJ used. Guessing it's a model year or transmission difference, the new block came from a jeep with an auto and I have a manaul transmission.
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Dec 5, 2015 22:39
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Hey guys- do these spring perches look like they're good enough to drive on? ^ This is the axle that came out of the 92 cherokee.
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Dec 6, 2015 20:24
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Phew, exhausted! Spent this weekend doing a laundry list of things ready for xmas. Changed oil which hit the skidplate and made a huge mess, changed front/back diff oils (they were gross), relocated vacuum pump into engine bay, changed air filter, cut frame and installed new stubbie bumper and got it painted, mounted winch onto bumper and had a friend build a fairlead bracket for it and got it all wired up, dropped rear driveshaft and replaced the torn boot on it.  Still got to figure out a place to put the license plate. Also have to buy a electronic disconnect skid for the bumper because it looks a bit vulnerable there, you can see it poking out below the bumper in the picture. tuna fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Dec 7, 2015 |
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Dec 7, 2015 04:15
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In the time it took me to get around to actually fixing it, it seems that the rattling upper shock bushing on my right front turned into a full-on trashed shock. I threw on a budget boost and some new (cheap) shocks and just backing it in/out of the driveway it's already much quieter. Still need to do the rears, then loosen/tighten all of the suspension bushings.
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Dec 7, 2015 05:37
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tuna posted:Still got to figure out a place to put the license plate. Some tin snips and a scrap of sheet aluminum from Lowes is how I made my bracket. It hangs from the fairlead bolts, then the license plate screws onto the aluminum sheet. I had to trim the center top to clear the winch line, but it took maybe 10 minutes to drill all the holes and trim the edges to fit.  
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Dec 7, 2015 09:32
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tuna posted:Phew, exhausted! Spent this weekend doing a laundry list of things ready for xmas. How'd you fix the rear drive shaft boot? I tore mine when we went to Windrock and before I drop the cash on a new Adams to match my front if there's a cheap way to fix the boot I'd love to know about it!
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Dec 7, 2015 14:02
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Do want. edit: oh my god an LS-swapped waggy  
FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Dec 7, 2015 |
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Dec 7, 2015 15:09
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Oh my god both of those 
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Dec 7, 2015 16:03
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Godholio posted:I don't think there's any way you can pass with an OBD2 vehicle and a pre-OBD2 engine. I think technically an engine swap has to come from same or newer model year, actually, but nobody cares unless they're testing. Technically yes, but the only way they'd notice in this case is if they compare the valve covers (which aren't an emissions specific part, just year wise, and many enthusiasts swap them so no one will think twice) or the block casting numbers, which are hidden under the intake and exhaust manifolds in a very hard to see spot. Also the longblocks are 99% the same, the ECU won't notice, and it won't set any DTCs, so the emissions test jockey who pulls it in, plugs the OBD2 cable in, mashes a button on the computer, sticks a sticker on, and pulls it back out of the bay will never, ever notice. EightBit posted:I think those rotating assemblies are the same, the biggest issue would be having the right bosses on the block tapped for your engine mounts/accessories. I have two 4.0 blocks in my possession, both from Wranglers of different years, and they have different bosses tapped. I didn't have any issues mounting the new one, as it had all of the bosses as the old block plus more tapped. The newer one came with one of the engine mount brackets still bolted on, and it was completely different from what my TJ used. Guessing it's a model year or transmission difference, the new block came from a jeep with an auto and I have a manaul transmission. You're correct. XJs, MJs, ZJs, YJs, and 97-99 TJs all use the same blocks, basically. Heads changed over the years as well as boltons but all the bosses are there and drilled/tapped. 00-up TJs and all WJs share a completely different block casting that you can swap internals back and forth from, but the accessory mounting bosses and motor mount bracket bosses are completely different and trying to use one instead of the other is a recipe for pain and suffering. I know people who have put a WJ or new TJ block into an XJ and it loving sucked, so apparently the XJ motor mount brackets and accessory mounts use some holes that the newer blocks don't have tapped (but that an older TJ doesn't need) or something. Fun fact relating to this: allegedly the 4.0 block still has the bosses machined, drilled, and tapped that were for installing the AMC Eagle front diff. Jeep never changes. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Dec 7, 2015 |
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Dec 7, 2015 18:07
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OK - I've got an appointment with a shop that will swap the 8.25 axle into my Comanche including the grinding and welding of the perches. I'll make sure they check and correctly set the pinion angle.
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Dec 7, 2015 18:23
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Who is doing it, if you don't mind me asking?
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Dec 7, 2015 18:26
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http://www.crossroadsme.com/ ^these guys.
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Dec 7, 2015 18:39
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I'm thinking about doing an 8.8 rear in my tj. The local pick a part has a bunch of explorers of the right year at the moment. I probably should just get the axel and have it take up space while I procrastinate to get the brackets etc welded on it.
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Dec 7, 2015 19:10
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I got the 8.25 rear from Slow Is Fast on the cheap as part of a matching set from his parted out XJ. Now that I've done the 4WD conversion and swapped the front end in, I just need to get the rear end converted so I can finish it up and make it commuter drivable again. When I'm done, I should be able to haul my camper and not worry about snapping a D35 shaft on a hill. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Dec 7, 2015 |
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Dec 7, 2015 19:20
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 Needs a Turbodiesel.
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Dec 7, 2015 19:39
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CommieGIR posted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NzMbGuLSTU
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Dec 7, 2015 20:12
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 Reminds me of that Indian produced clone of the CJ2. Then again, that thing was awful.
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Dec 7, 2015 20:18
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CommieGIR posted:
Haha. Mahindra CJ3bs with IFS? Yeah- I bet they're probably fun until something breaks.
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Dec 7, 2015 20:25
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If I won the lottery, my road trip/winter vehicle would be a Grand Wagoneer with a built LSx under the hood. Those engines are as reliable as our beloved straight-6's and are good for silly amounts of power. edit: although this Vortec 6.0 swap is pretty awesome too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-Hg6KB6byE Goddamnit I need to get back to work. FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Dec 7, 2015 |
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Dec 7, 2015 20:32
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mattfl posted:How'd you fix the rear drive shaft boot? I tore mine when we went to Windrock and before I drop the cash on a new Adams to match my front if there's a cheap way to fix the boot I'd love to know about it! Order the boot replacement from quadratec or somewhere, just make double sure it says 4dr version because I got a 2dr version by mistake first. It's actually really simple just remember to mark the driveshaft front and back of the boot so when you put it back together again the splines are still lined up correctly and balanced. Cut the 2 weird metal ties holding the boot on. Unbolt the ~8 5/16ths bolts at the rear axle end of the driveshaft, drop it out and pull the driveshaft in half, put the new boot in and then reverse all the steps. I just used 2 zip ties to hold the boot on, because the metal ties they give you are really weird and require some tool to tighten. The only annoying thing about the process are the 5/16ths bolts, you'll want something like this because there are a million tough threads on them.
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Dec 7, 2015 20:36
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Godholio posted:Some tin snips and a scrap of sheet aluminum from Lowes is how I made my bracket. It hangs from the fairlead bolts, then the license plate screws onto the aluminum sheet. I had to trim the center top to clear the winch line, but it took maybe 10 minutes to drill all the holes and trim the edges to fit. Yeah I might try the same. My bumper is angled very sharp below the fairlead so I hope it's ok that its basically not visible 
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Dec 7, 2015 20:38
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tuna posted:Order the boot replacement from quadratec or somewhere, just make double sure it says 4dr version because I got a 2dr version by mistake first. It's actually really simple just remember to mark the driveshaft front and back of the boot so when you put it back together again the splines are still lined up correctly and balanced. The metal ties they use are "Oetiker clamps" and the proper-size ones from the dealer are usually like 5-10 bucks EACH. I use either stainless steel zipties from home depot or regular zipties depending on how soon I know I'm going to have to pull it apart again.
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Dec 7, 2015 20:41
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tuna posted:Order the boot replacement from quadratec or somewhere, just make double sure it says 4dr version because I got a 2dr version by mistake first. It's actually really simple just remember to mark the driveshaft front and back of the boot so when you put it back together again the splines are still lined up correctly and balanced. WTF, this is even a Mopar part. Why did my dealer tell me they couldn't order just the boot to fix it!? Thanks man, gonna get this ordered soon to fix mine. I've pulled multiple front and rear shafts so I know all about those stupid bolts! http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-and-Differential/Rear-Driveshaft-Boot-Kit.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=515&t_pt=5797&t_pn=JEP68222873AA $60 and I'll be good as new again. mattfl fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Dec 7, 2015 |
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Dec 7, 2015 20:42
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kastein posted:The metal ties they use are "Oetiker clamps" and the proper-size ones from the dealer are usually like 5-10 bucks EACH. I use either stainless steel zipties from home depot or regular zipties depending on how soon I know I'm going to have to pull it apart again. I would've kept them if I knew they were more expensive than beer. We didn't have any pliers that would work on them so just went with big plastic zipties mattfl posted:WTF, this is even a Mopar part. Why did my dealer tell me they couldn't order just the boot to fix it!? Dealers are forever the worst. BTW have you or anyone you know done the swaybar e-disco flip? Basically rotate it 180 degrees upwards so it has more clearance. I'm looking at doing that, but I'm wondering if its a huge pain in the rear end before I start.
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Dec 7, 2015 22:14
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What can I do to prevent alder beds from scratching the hell out of my clear coat? Is it just a need to whack the wax to it before going on these little quad trails or what? We bought a new Sahara Unlimited but I'm a little less cautious than my wife (to me scratches don't matter) and I'm getting in a bit of hot water every time I come home with it clawed up more..
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Dec 7, 2015 22:20
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Unless you cover every facet of the Jeep with some kind of protective 3M film (which will be scratched and ugly in short time) there isn't much you can do about it besides waxing. Also scratches are harder to see on white paint, so sell it and buy it again in white. Most people just accept it's going to happen. If I was scared the Jeep would get scratched every time I wheel it, I'd live in a constant state of anxiety.
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Dec 7, 2015 22:31
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flashman posted:What can I do to prevent alder beds from scratching the hell out of my clear coat? Is it just a need to whack the wax to it before going on these little quad trails or what? We bought a new Sahara Unlimited but I'm a little less cautious than my wife (to me scratches don't matter) and I'm getting in a bit of hot water every time I come home with it clawed up more.. Buy your wife one of those nice random orbital polishers and a wax kit for christmas. Say "babe I know you hate those scratches and I love bikini car washes, maybe we can get together on this one"  Disclaimer - I am not married so probably don't do this. Maybe get some matching color vinyl side wraps installed? There's not much you can do to prevent it other than pick wide/clear trails.
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Dec 7, 2015 22:35
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flashman posted:What can I do to prevent alder beds from scratching the hell out of my clear coat? Is it just a need to whack the wax to it before going on these little quad trails or what? We bought a new Sahara Unlimited but I'm a little less cautious than my wife (to me scratches don't matter) and I'm getting in a bit of hot water every time I come home with it clawed up more.. Another fix is to buy a $3000 or so XJ and use it to flog around off road.
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Dec 7, 2015 22:49
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tuna posted:I would've kept them if I knew they were more expensive than beer. We didn't have any pliers that would work on them so just went with big plastic zipties No, the bumper I have mentioned in the instructions I'd need to rotate it to install but the bumper went on just fine. There is drilling out of a few holes you need to do and other things that make it seem like it's gonna be a pain in the rear end. I'm just gonna wait for it to break like everyone says it does and install the Evo manual knob thing eventually.
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Dec 7, 2015 23:12
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http://trailskinz.com/shop/index.php/jeep-protection/trailskinz/jk.html A bunch of folks in BC use these as our trails are overgrown to gently caress and back. They are magnetic rubber sheets you plaster your jeep with. Personally I bought an old TJ and give no fucks about a bit of trail pin striping 
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Dec 7, 2015 23:29
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mattfl posted:No, the bumper I have mentioned in the instructions I'd need to rotate it to install but the bumper went on just fine. There is drilling out of a few holes you need to do and other things that make it seem like it's gonna be a pain in the rear end. I'm just gonna wait for it to break like everyone says it does and install the Evo manual knob thing eventually. I just found the Metal Cloak "kit" (basically 1 custom bolt) it looks pretty easy actually. Looks like 2012+ I'll just have to hand-bend a metal brake line a bit to get it to fit but it looks easy as hell actually. Literally just unbolt, rotate and bolt back in. I was worried the bumper would get in the way but I should have access without hammering the bumper off. That evo disconnect kit is also what I'll get if the actuator dies on me, it looks pretty good.
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Dec 7, 2015 23:45
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