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Slimnoid posted:Just leave Saitama's face on there, it's perfect as-is. I was just thinking that...
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Dec 12, 2015 00:49
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Okay, got some more work done on my diorama. Here's my plan for basic layout: I've dug my grave. I'll be placing a piece of red plastic there so that the glow is of the right hellish color. The coffin will sit right on top of that. I'm going to treat the top with Vallejo red oxide paste, going into the grave itself, then painting it all dirt brown. I'll add in some roots and bits to be sticking out of the sides of the hole. I might also place a dead tree from some Warhammer terrain I got, though the bits already in there might be sufficient. To cover up the cardboard sides, I thought I might glue some wrapping paper to the sides. Thoughts on the basic layout?
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Dec 12, 2015 06:06
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Finished Angel from Fishermen, im happy-ish with how the eyes turned out, but the rest is pretty average..  And the whole team together 
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Dec 12, 2015 06:56
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Master Twig posted:Crossposting from the 40k thread. This is my Space Marines, Skitarii, Cult Mech converted into Skaven army. I'm the golden rat idol.
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Dec 12, 2015 10:34
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Guys, I've started painting again after many years (about 10?) and I'd like some suggestions to step up my game. My painting supplies are quite slim compared to most of what I've seen in here:  My sculpting/modding supplies are inexistent, and you'll see quite a few of "white tack" sculpting experiments in there (hardened with super glue). I usually follow these steps: - prime black - basecoat with dark tone - add a lighter layer - wash - add a lighter layer - add highlights The result I want is tabletop quality (I'm using all this stuff to play Mordheim, but I'm painting all the warbands myself). The procedure is quite fast and takes about 1h-1,5h to complete a model (or a couple of hours to do 3 if I'm doing similar ones, IE: ghouls or zombies). The main gripe I have is that I feel like my palette is super small: everything feels like various shades of brown and grey. Here's some examples (phone camera, sorry about that):        And here's the full album: http://imgur.com/a/cdmXw Feel free to criticise everything (please do)!
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Dec 12, 2015 12:06
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A limited pallette is actually a good thing in my opinion, makes your models believable and cohesive. That skeleton rocks, the dwarf rocks, the skaven rocks, the ghouls rock. I'm no expert but I can tell that you'll end up one of those painters that can bang out stellar paint jobs as long as you keep at it and push your boundaries to different techniques. e: also what was your method for the weathering on that shield?
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Dec 12, 2015 12:28
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Hey man thanks for the kind words! I'm mostly concerned with the fact that, no matter what I'm painting (Ie: an elf, a skaven, a zombie) my palette remains similar, with very few extra colors in the rotation. But I guess i'm a slave to habit  The weathering on the "bronze" shield is quite simple: I've thinned down some Nurgling Green (think ot was called Rotten Flesh years ago) with a lot of water, applied it on top of the finished shield in splotches with a loaded brush (it's very watery, so it looks like droplets almost when first applied), then pressed the tip of my finger 2 or 3 times against the wet surface (to remove and spread part of the paint and to have it clump in small patches). It works with orange/red for regular rust as well. I feel like this works better on gold/dark gold than on silver or steel though. That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Dec 12, 2015 |
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Dec 12, 2015 13:15
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 Finished up a unit of Fulgurite Electro-priests. I did get a tad bored of painting them so the finishing details are sloppy, but nothing that's noticeable at 40cm+ away.
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Dec 12, 2015 19:03
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JackMann posted:Okay, got some more work done on my diorama. Here's my plan for basic layout: I'm not sure I get the positioning of the trees and the two characters. They make this kind of symmetric layout that messes with the narrative. I'm guessing the unidentifiable lump of things is a monster who's about to attack the cloaked guy who's uncovering the coffin? If that's the case, maybe have the cloaked figure's back to the monstrosity so he's going to get screwed and doesn't know it. Alternatively, he could be on the far side of the coffin pit from the monster with the coffin kind of between him and it so that he looks terrified like he's trying to hide behind it. The trees aren't really doing anything dispersed evenly like that, I'd suggest clumping them by a tipped over headstone to suggest that the graveyard is overgrown and unattended. Or place them around the coffin to catch light from your hell-portal.
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Dec 12, 2015 19:52
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That Italian Guy posted:
Judging by your mordehiem terrain, I'd say a pallet of mostly browns and grays is a good, fitting thing. Also, most ham figures really look good with a good amount of grunge. I'd say the best way to break your pallet habit would be to pick up some minis that will force you to go with clean, bright colors. Maybe some Infinity PanOciana, or Eldar Harlequins?
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Dec 12, 2015 20:03
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That Italian Guy posted:Guys, I've started painting again after many years (about 10?) and I'd like some suggestions to step up my game. What terrain is that?
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Dec 12, 2015 21:00
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That Italian Guy posted:The main gripe I have is that I feel like my palette is super small: everything feels like various shades of brown and grey. The reason that your colors come out kind of brown or grey is because the colors you have are neutralized a bit. Your yellow has a little bit of red in it to bring it to a yellow-orange. No amount of white added to it will take that away. Without dumping a bunch of money on a wide range of paints, all you really need to add to your small number of paints is a pure yellow and maybe a pure blue. If you want to stick with GW paints, then get Flash Gitz Yellow and Altdorf Guard Blue. Otherwise, just get a bright yellow and a pure kind of blue made by Golden or Vallejo Model Paints. You could get a pure orange, violet, and green too to save some time mixing those colors or if you need a real bright one. Mixing secondary colors to match the options that come right out of the bottle or pot are hard to make because you tend to be a little too much into one color or the other and having the right amount of white in the mix is difficult, so you get secondaries that lean a little bit into one color or the other. Which is good if you are making more natural colors. You'll notice that green objects in nature are a little neutralized like the grass or trees. Also, the GW Imperial Primer is a pain in the rear end to apply. Get some Vallejo surface primer asap.
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Dec 12, 2015 21:02
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Is VSP really that good? Want to order some guild ball sets and might as well throw some in to the order. Really want to paint my infinity stuff but haven't been able to prime since October.
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Dec 12, 2015 21:06
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ijyt posted:Is VSP really that good? Want to order some guild ball sets and might as well throw some in to the order. Really want to paint my infinity stuff but haven't been able to prime since October. Oh yeah. It's the best thing to have when you live somewhere that spraying is not an option.
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Dec 12, 2015 21:17
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Cross Posting from the Warhammer threads:Hixson posted:Another batch of dudes ready for basing! Really pleased with how they came out! They were Zenith primed -and airbrushed with Mephiston Red and Evil Suns Scarlet. Still didn't like how dark they were so I layered on some more ESS with a brush then did a light orange line highlight on high points. The gold is Vallejo Old Gold. All the tabards and scarab chest ornaments are sculpted on with greenstuff. And I resin casted all the left shoulder pads off a greenstuff sculpt.
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Dec 12, 2015 21:23
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Hey, thanks everyone for the suggestions! I guess I'll need to study some color theory, cause right now I'm mostly going with whites/greys/black/browns + original color for shade and highlights (also I only own a burnt umber ink for washes, everything else I'm cooking up with paints). I think my gf may be up to something for Christmas, so I may be getting an Army Painter large set (cause she was oddly curious about it). Right now I'm using GW just out of habit (it's what I was using before) and laziness (I just went to a gw store and got them an year ago, and I haven't had the chance to use them till now). I'm definitely going to get the Vallejo primer cause the consensus seems to be unanimous. @dr_ether it's Dave Graffam's paper models (houses and walls) and the Streets of Himmelveil set for the ground tiles! That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Dec 12, 2015 |
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Dec 12, 2015 22:15
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That Italian Guy posted:it's Dave Graffam's paper models (houses and walls) and the Streets of Himmelveil set for the ground tiles! Hey, what did you glue the houses onto? Foam board?
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Dec 12, 2015 22:35
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Slimnoid posted:Hey, what did you glue the houses onto? Foam board? The Tudor style one is Foamboard 3mm; the green/bricks one is very thin corrugated cardboard (small size pizza box); the floors are made with the same cardboard. I really like the 3mm foamboard better cause it's lighter, doesn't warp and has a small 3d element to it. I'm experimenting a bit with painting brown ink directly on the white foamboard to create a weathered wood/planks effect and I'm liking it:   
That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Dec 12, 2015 |
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Dec 12, 2015 22:56
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Star Man posted:Oh yeah. It's the best thing to have when you live somewhere that spraying is not an option. Gotta mention Badger's Stynlrez as well, it can be airbrushed on but is thick enough to brush on as well. Everyone in this thread who's tried it has loved it, and they recently added color primers to the black, grey and white of the original range.
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Dec 12, 2015 23:22
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More work done today with the airbrush. The Phoenix is very close to being finished. Also started and done a lot of work on the Lion and Antelope.     
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Dec 13, 2015 01:13
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Hixson posted:Cross Posting from the Warhammer threads: Yeah those are rad
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Dec 13, 2015 02:21
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JackMann posted:To cover up the cardboard sides, I thought I might glue some wrapping paper to the sides. You could also use hot glue if you want a more rugged edge. I watch a lot of dmscotty on YouTube and that is his preferred method for covering corrugation.
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Dec 13, 2015 03:58
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Converted up this trukk tonight; I think this may have been more work than the two trukks before!
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Dec 13, 2015 07:53
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SRM posted:Converted up this trukk tonight; I think this may have been more work than the two trukks before!  *Looks over the conversion, picks out where each bit came from.* *Revalulates life* 
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Dec 13, 2015 08:16
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will blow your mind.
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See, if I ever made an ork trukk, I would get a piece from a model truck that says Ford or Chevrolet on it and stick it on the back.
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Dec 13, 2015 08:24
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Star Man posted:See, if I ever made an ork trukk, I would get a piece from a model truck that says Ford or Chevrolet on it and stick it on the back.
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Dec 13, 2015 17:17
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SRM posted:I think I need to get the bit from the Meganobz kit that's basically trukk nuts, but skulls.
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Dec 13, 2015 18:53
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Space Marine Commander incoming   Not painted anything in a while so wanted something fairly simple to ease myself back in during some time off. Wasn't aiming for anything too fancy, and didn't want to spend too long on it. Quite a few scrappy highlights but overall I'm happy with it
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Dec 13, 2015 20:15
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That's a drat fine looking Commander there. I love that kit.
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Dec 13, 2015 20:35
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Star Man posted:The reason that your colors come out kind of brown or grey is because the colors you have are neutralized a bit. Your yellow has a little bit of red in it to bring it to a yellow-orange. No amount of white added to it will take that away. If you're going big on mixing, getting a set of basic golden colors or something will definitely give you the basics. Or just find the materials list for an intro to painting class and the colors out of that that look useful. That'll generally ensure you get a good set of colors that will mix well to do most things you want. As a snobbysnob who's done traditional art, miniature paints annoy me to no end because they don't actually list the pigments in them on the label, so apart from siennas, umbers, ochres and ultramarine, I don't really know what's in my paints! Makes it hard to recommend what vallejo ones are actually good for mixing from a small selection. (And makes it hard to know what greens and blues are pthalos so I can keep those fuckers in a locked box far away from any other paints they might contaminate. Possibly a slight exaggeration.) In general, though, traditional art colors are made for using a dozen or two colors to make every color you use, and the vast majority of model colors are pre-mixes to do specific jobs. Great at that job, but it makes them a bitch to mix most of the time. Edit: Something like this will do really well: http://www.dickblick.com/items/00638-1008/#photos You might want a different blue like ultramarine or something in there as well, but that's just my personal preference. The pthalo colors are REALLY strong if you just want to tint a color ever so slightly. Felime fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Dec 13, 2015 |
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Dec 13, 2015 21:02
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For some reason it's been really hard to find black primer. I'm assuming using this paint+primer stuff wouldn't work as well?
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Dec 13, 2015 21:16
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wdarkk posted:For some reason it's been really hard to find black primer. I'm assuming using this paint+primer stuff wouldn't work as well? That's exactly what you're looking for. Krylon satin black paint+primer is what I use for almost everything.
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Dec 13, 2015 21:37
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SRM posted:That's exactly what you're looking for. Krylon satin black paint+primer is what I use for almost everything.  Welp, I'll be going back to the hardware store at some point.
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Dec 13, 2015 21:39
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:I'm not sure I get the positioning of the trees and the two characters. They make this kind of symmetric layout that messes with the narrative. I'm guessing the unidentifiable lump of things is a monster who's about to attack the cloaked guy who's uncovering the coffin? It's actually a tombstone. It's a pastiche of A Christmas Carol, where the Ghost of Christmas Future shows Scrooge his own grave.
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Dec 14, 2015 00:11
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Finished up some Kingdom Death stuff. The plastics are very crisply detailed and a pleasure to work with. Some of the parts could do with a little less breaks, but generally they work well. Re-shot the Great Game Hunter. Scratchbuilt a sword to replace the creepy child-crossbow-bearer. Experimenting on "true metallic metals" with the blade. Really painful to shade with glazes on metallics since you can't go back and cover with the base colour without ruining everything.  Resin Sword Hunter. The big pack of swords was irretrievably damaged and I disliked her original weapons, so I gave her replacements from one of the armour kits. The shield is scratchbuilt. It looks really thick in the photos but it isn't as noticeable IRL.  Two guys I built from the Lion armor kit. The variety of stuff on the sprue is amazing.    Group shot 
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Dec 14, 2015 00:39
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Is it called Kingdom Death because the women all die from pneumonia? (awesome paint jobs though!)
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Dec 14, 2015 00:44
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theroachman posted:Is it called Kingdom Death because the women all die from pneumonia? (awesome paint jobs though!) Yeah, this. Really nice painting on those figs, really lovely T&A in the designs. Making the tummy on the great game hunter 'clothed' by just painting it gray improves the model a great deal already.
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Dec 14, 2015 02:36
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occamsnailfile posted:Yeah, this. Really nice painting on those figs, really lovely T&A in the designs. Making the tummy on the great game hunter 'clothed' by just painting it gray improves the model a great deal already. Had to sand the nips off the sword hunter... The T&A on some of the designs when thematically appropriate when you compare it to 'classic' fantasy art (ie Boris Vallejo/old Conan). I dislike the ones where the model has inexplicable loss of clothing (like the Great Game Hunter - she's fully clothed apart from not wearing any pants!) and the ones in weird ADTRW poses. The armor kit figures are pretty tame though.
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Dec 14, 2015 02:52
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To be fair to Kingdom Death, at least it has a slightly greater fraction of impractically-armored men than usual, e.g.: I've always kind of liked the idea of a setting where armor is purely decorative (assuming you're a badass) and characters just wear whatever looks coolest. It's really hard to find minis like that for guys though, unless you restrict yourself to Conan knockoffs. Where's all the shirtless twink wizards? Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Dec 14, 2015 |
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Dec 14, 2015 02:55
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Avenging Dentist posted:To be fair to Kingdom Death, at least it has a slightly greater fraction of impractically-armored men than usual, e.g.: "C'mon, why do you have to wear a full suite of armor and just make it horrible for the rest of us?"
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Dec 14, 2015 04:11
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