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M42 posted:Does it move with your skin or does it slide over it? With it.
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Dec 13, 2015 15:44
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Pull the cheekpads out of the helmet. Put helmet on your head. Walk around a bit. Does what's left fit well, conform to the shape of your head? No pressure points? - No, try a different size or brand. - Yes, good, that's the right size helmet. Now put the cheekpads in and get over it, or put them under a book overnight. They will compress a bit. you'll get used to it. That's what happened when I walked up to the gear guy at the dealership with a large shoei GT Air in hand saying there was no way I'm a medium, it was too tight to even put on and the large fit fine. I've had the medium for almost 3 years. The cheekpads will compress and lose some spring which will make it fit a bit looser and easier to put on and less face squishing. The crown padding is a lot thinner and won't change as much, it's more a direct connection to the EPS foam. So if THAT doesn't fit right you're just hosed.
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Dec 13, 2015 16:31
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The crown does fit fine, I'll just tighten the chinstrap more and quit being a paranoid babby  Thanks for the advice, that'll come in handy next time I'm lid shopping.
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Dec 13, 2015 16:40
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Buy a set of larger cheek pads. It should fit like a
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Dec 13, 2015 16:55
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That looks and sounds like how my AVG fit me, right down to feeling like it was going to get blown off at high speeds. In my case it was too large/wrong head shape. That one is probably fine (my avg still saved me from a horrific high speed accident), but true joy lies with a properly snug helmet, trust me.
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Dec 13, 2015 17:40
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That helmet is way too big. If you can shake it at all it's too big.
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Dec 13, 2015 17:45
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Ya if the helmet is moving and your head is not then it is too loose.
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Dec 14, 2015 00:23
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Stuffed a Rekluse in the YZ450F yesterday and spent 4hr on it today. Worth every drat penny - it made the bike easier to ride in the technical stuff and made me stop fearing steep hills at all.
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Dec 14, 2015 00:40
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BlackMK4 posted:Stuffed a Rekluse in the YZ450F yesterday and spent 4hr on it today. Worth every drat penny - it made the bike easier to ride in the technical stuff and made me stop fearing steep hills at all. Have any video of it in action?
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Dec 14, 2015 03:07
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I'll run a GoPro next weekend. I should probably do that, since I ride alone and am generally pushing pretty hard. 
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Dec 14, 2015 03:29
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BlackMK4 posted:I'll run a GoPro next weekend. I should probably do that, since I ride alone and am generally pushing pretty hard. So they'll find footage of some sick jumps on your corpse?
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Dec 14, 2015 06:20
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Added this backrest, and it feels great:
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Dec 17, 2015 00:58
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Oh hey, how is the Scout to ride? I'm really tempted to at least give one a test ride next year.
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Dec 17, 2015 11:01
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Collateral Damage posted:Oh hey, how is the Scout to ride? I'm really tempted to at least give one a test ride next year. It's really a lot of fun; handles great, doesn't lack for power/responsiveness, nice low center of gravity. I wouldn't hesitate at all to recommend a test. I suspect that if you give it a ride, you'll be hooked. I read all the reviews I could find and finally settled on it about a month ago. Haven't put any serious miles on it yet, but no regrets so far.
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Dec 17, 2015 21:54
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Baxter posted:Added this backrest, and it feels great: That looks sweet. How's your reach to the handle bars? I've got a similar seat for my dad's bike for him for his birthday last year. This year I'm eyeing getting him some Rox Risers so he bring the bars up and back to his preference.
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Dec 17, 2015 22:15
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 Sigh. Year of the puncture goes out with a hiss.
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Dec 17, 2015 23:34
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Coredump posted:That looks sweet. How's your reach to the handle bars? I've got a similar seat for my dad's bike for him for his birthday last year. This year I'm eyeing getting him some Rox Risers so he bring the bars up and back to his preference. I found the stock handle bars just a little too far forward for my liking, and had them replaced at the dealership with a reduced-reach set. Brought them back about 2", which feels about right.
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Dec 18, 2015 00:29
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Finally got the FZR back on the road. Rebuilt shock came back from Austin with super quick turnaround from OnRoadOffRoad cycles. The rear feels great! Mounted rear shock, rear wheel, turn signals, license plate, front fairing, and switched over to 20w50 oil. Need to readjust my chain but otherwise it feels awesome riding again. Rode today in the rain, too. Feelsgoodman
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Dec 21, 2015 17:52
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air filter serviced, exhaust repacked, inspected hoses/harness/fluid checks.   ss core didn't last much longer than just fiberglass mats. 3800 miles and some change. Plus it made a loud muffler louder. 
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Dec 24, 2015 18:45
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Christ, I need to do that. Where did you order the packing?
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Dec 24, 2015 18:53
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amazon lolol. 010590 FMF
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Dec 24, 2015 18:57
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Spent the day before Christmas getting drawn progressively further and further away from home (on my bicycle, in the heat) but finally tracked down a replacement bolt for front sprocket on the postie. Thankfully I bought two because once again it sheared off  Either my new torque wrench is a liar or the bolt in question just shouldn't be torqued to the standard 10mm value in the shop manual I guess. Tightened it back down to about what it was before, using smaller spanner and going almost as tight as I could. Rest of it went together pretty well, fortunately new chain was already the right length so that was easy. I'd left a spring sitting around on a table for the rear brake for a few weeks that suddenly was nowhere to be found, was worried it'd rolled off the driveway and down into my landlord's bramble thicket. Having cut my arm up digging around in there for the wheel nut a couple weeks ago, I was just as soon ready to cut my losses and pick up another one at the wreckers for a dollar next time I was down there. Randomly, walking back downstairs to do something unrelated to the brakes, I saw the spring sitting about halfway down the driveway by itself, not far from dropping off the edge  Got the rest of it back together, and swapped in the 6V headlight socket and bulb. Found out new socket will not fit the reflector the PO had on the bike with his dumb 12V socket/bulb mod, so looks like it's out to the wrecker's again soon anyways. Bulb initially worked with both low and high beams, but looks to have blown out one of them after just a minute or so of running the bike (think it was the high beam that went, don't want to start it up again to confirm now that it's late) :-\ Doing some reading, I've seen it suggested that having a battery helps act as a regulator for the bike's electrical system. Mine's been removed/bypassed so that could well be it, but not sure I want to throw more money on what is so far a minor problem. Can't find the part number for it to guestimate on costs anyways. Faffed around with wiring inside the headlight bucket a bit, installed the high beam indicator bulb and wired it in, even though I still don't have a bulb for it. Looks like my order of bullet connectors never arrived from China, so I'll just order some from Australia at a slight markup instead. I'm not sure that replacing the jets and fiddling with the throttle adjust screw did much to help the bike running initially, but now it seems to be idling and running without choke? Kind of. Behaviour was a little weird at start up and required a little on-the-fly adjustment of the screw and fiddling with choke lever, I need to try again tomorrow and write down everything as I'm doing it so I can figure out exactly what I was doing and ask the right questions. Bike is still doing the "sometimes try to creep forward a bit at a stop" thing, which lets me know something's still up. Revving in neutral sometimes causes a "runaway" throttle response, whereas if I do it in gear, not so much, hmmm. Any thoughts?
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Dec 26, 2015 12:47
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Most regulators need a 12v reference point, or they will let the voltage bounce and spike. A battery also essentially converts any over voltage scenario into heat in the battery instead of letting it blow bulbs or burn out coils, so even a small one is good to have on a kick start bike.
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Dec 26, 2015 20:01
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Today: oil change hoping it might help with "creep forward at stop" issue due to viscosity difference from whatever the cabbagehead PO used. Nope. Replaced air filter, cleaned out air filter box, inspected butterfly valve on choke, checked on new spark plug (already fouled  ), installed new mirrors, spent forever trying to get idle working, and jerry rigged an "adapter" out of cardboard and electrical tape to get the bulb jammed into the reflector/housing that I have temporarily. Geirskogul posted:Most regulators need a 12v reference point, or they will let the voltage bounce and spike. A battery also essentially converts any over voltage scenario into heat in the battery instead of letting it blow bulbs or burn out coils, so even a small one is good to have on a kick start bike. It's a 6V system, but the point still stands I assume. My old XR250 didn't have a battery (not sure it even supported one?) and I did fine with electrics on it so I naively assumed this one would be OK too. From what I can find, it's supposed to be a 6V and either 4, 4.5 or 5 amps. The manual calls for one of those unsealed ones you have to top up with distilled water and stuff, which... ugh, no. Would any sort of sealed lead-acid battery of the appropriate voltage/amperage be OK? I gather lithium ion batteries in vintage bikes can be asking for trouble.
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Dec 27, 2015 14:02
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Did many different things over the last few days, all on Italian bikes. Went for a ride in northern New England:  Converted my moped back to a stock fuel setup. This was kind of depressing for me because I had gone to some lengths to rig a high capacity tank to the rear rack and even wired in a 12v fuel gauge that worked with the sender on the [scooter] tank on the back so that it would work off the 6v a/c system on the moped. In the end, though, it was all so goddamned ugly I decided it was more dignified just to run a stock tank. It took me about 6 months of watching the internet to find a stock tank for a Vespa Bravo and I still had to mod it to fit mine because they made no less than three different tanks for the Bravo and the loving FRAMES are different on each so none are interchangeable. Before, with the big tank (sadly I don't have a pic of it with the fuel gauge on it but you can imagine it on there by just imagining some more ugly poo poo on the bike):  Now:  Then I started some wiring work on my mom's 1969 Ducati 160 Monza Jr. that she's going to run in a road rally next year. I'm trying to make it all as reliable as possible, so I decided to replace the headlight. Then I discovered the bulb is a sealed beam that doesn't exist anymore. So I decided to convert it to an H4 reflector. Then I discovered the headlight housing is a size that doesn't exist anymore. So I dremeled a hole in the old sealed beam reflector and removed the bulb innards and I was going to just stick a a 6v H4 LED bulb in there held in with rubber bands or something, and then I discovered that the bike runs A/C current to the headlight bulb.  Congrats to you if you can understand much of that, it took me quite a while. In summary, even though the bike has a battery (of which none are available that fit in its tiny tray anymore) it doesn't really run anything off the battery except the horn and the brake light. The charging circuit just charges the battery which doesn't really power anything else. The rest of the lights are run on 6v A/C off a separate coil in the stator just like a goddamn moped. Why not just run the entire loving system off A/C? The circuitry to do so was littered all over Italy at the time thanks to the old Vespas, and the ignition is not battery powered anyway either. But wait, it gets better. Depending on what position the light switch is in, sometimes the taillight is run off the DC circuit and sometimes it's run off the A/C circuit with the headlight. I've rarely seen such stupid poo poo. The last thing I remember being that stupid was my moped's ignition circuit, wherein the ignition coil is grounded through the brake light bulb some of the time, such that if the brake bulb is dead and you grab the brake lever, it cuts the ignition. At least that made some sense from a maintenance perspective, though. So now I'm sitting down to see if I can rewire the system so that everything is run off the DC circuit. Just combine the charging coil output and the lighting coil output. I'll be putting a modern electronic regulator on it -- as opposed to the literal single diode and no regulator that was originally on it -- so I'm hoping it might work without melting something.
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Dec 28, 2015 23:46
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:electrics That's the most  post I've seen in a good while. Good luck with the mods. Remember to not give up too late in the process, mental health and that.
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Dec 29, 2015 00:32
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:the bike runs A/C current to the headlight bulb. 
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Dec 29, 2015 05:48
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Thats not all that weird...some scoots do this, and ATV/ATC/Dirtbikes. Ordered a IMS tank, because the original has started to dribble again.
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Dec 29, 2015 05:53
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There's nothing particularly weird about this. All of the incandescent light bulbs in your house run on AC. If you're heating up a filament, it doesn't matter which way the electrons are moving. Lets you get away without using an R/R. Likely to be the case on anything with a magneto and almost definitely anything without a battery. The real question to ask is if it's unregulated current straight from the alternator (that wiring diagram looks like yes). In that case, the bulb is going to get brighter as the engine speeds up, and if you bring it up past the redline, you'll probably blow the bulb up entirely. Cool.
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Dec 29, 2015 06:55
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Sagebrush posted:There's nothing particularly weird about this. All of the incandescent light bulbs in your house run on AC. If you're heating up a filament, it doesn't matter which way the electrons are moving. Lets you get away without using an R/R. Likely to be the case on anything with a magneto and almost definitely anything without a battery. I tried explaining this to my shitbird former roommate and even offered to fix it so he didn't keep blowing headlights at night. He didn't listen. He got hit by a car.  
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Dec 29, 2015 19:30
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I tried explaining this to my shitbird former roommate and even offered to fix it so he didn't keep blowing headlights at night. Motorcycles are dangerous! 
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Dec 29, 2015 20:32
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I tried explaining this to my shitbird former roommate and even offered to fix it so he didn't keep blowing headlights at night. ☐ Not REKT ☑ REKT
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Dec 29, 2015 20:49
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I tried explaining this to my shitbird former roommate and even offered to fix it so he didn't keep blowing headlights at night.
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Dec 29, 2015 22:47
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 3.2 gal IMS tank installed. the mess is rain + bay area grime + fuel leak.  Leak now, bitch.
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Dec 31, 2015 02:01
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I want that gas tank so bad. I'm just gonna buy one this season.
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Dec 31, 2015 03:17
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Yerok posted:I want that gas tank so bad. I'm just gonna buy one this season. confirmed. it rocks. I've ridden a drz with the huge rear end 4.0 supertanker and it sucked. This one much less so.   SS rear lines and a CRF mastercylinder because:   E: VVV: Thats one reason why I bought it. Not wide, not tall. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Jan 1, 2016 |
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Jan 1, 2016 02:57
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I prefer the IMS because it's easier to get forward to get weight over the front end. But that's just me.
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Jan 1, 2016 03:44
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Changed my oil yesterday. The filter was on so tight I destroyed the nut on the end of the k&n filter. Had to hammer a metal rod through it to get some leverage.
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Jan 1, 2016 10:22
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Last night I met an inexperienced rider who had bought a brand new Ducati 899 Panigale just a few weeks earlier. Apparently he had a scare, didn't dare riding it any more and wanted a more gentle bike, so he offered to trade it for my Ninja 650 and call it even. Then I woke up. 
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Jan 2, 2016 02:19
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Does that IMS tank come in anything other than yellow :S
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Jan 2, 2016 09:32
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