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Alereon posted:Yeah, it is going to be too hot to touch under load, that is normal. You can see if a temperature appears in a temperature monitoring program but I don't think they had an internal temperature sensor. Ok cheers I'll take your word for it the puzzling thing is why the guy that had this before felt the need to stick a little dinky fan on there 
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Dec 10, 2015 14:37
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Can anyone recommend an external esata multi-drive enclosure or two? Looking to fit 2-3 drives in a JBOD fashion. Quiet active cooling a must. Or should I go NAS? Thanks!
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Dec 10, 2015 14:43
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Moola posted:Ok cheers I'll take your word for it
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Dec 10, 2015 20:18
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Moola posted:Ok cheers I'll take your word for it Those Nvidia chipsets had a high failure rate after a few years, probably due to their high operating temperature, so that dinky little fan might be the only reason it's still alive and kicking. I put one on my NAS box's chipset because under heavy gig-E file transfers it would get scorching hot and lose the NIC until a reboot. It's been working fine since.
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Dec 11, 2015 03:13
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ok well on that case I might stick a bigger fan on there instead, any suggestions on Jerry rigging case fans to heat sinks? preferably I'd like to buy some sort of clip on thingy
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Dec 11, 2015 03:16
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Moola posted:ok well on that case I might stick a bigger fan on there instead, any suggestions on Jerry rigging case fans to heat sinks? No jerry rigging required. http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Spot-Cool-SpotCool-System/dp/B000I5KSNQ
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Dec 11, 2015 05:16
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If not that, then a couple dabs of superglue on the corners, or double-sided tape on the fan hub would do it.
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Dec 11, 2015 16:41
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SlayVus posted:No jerry rigging required. 
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Dec 13, 2015 12:12
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Err, they sell thermal adhesives for exactly this purpose Buy this stuff, it's a thermal compound that's also a glue: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9VM3K38007&cm_re=thermal_adhesive-_-35-100-013-_-Product And attach whatever chipset heatsink fan to it http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835226019&cm_re=chipset_heatsink-_-35-226-019-_-Product Or just use the existing heating and replace the 40mm fan with a new one.
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Dec 13, 2015 17:11
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what's the advantages of using that thermal compound over another adhesive? Keep in mind I'm literally just going to glue a fan straight onto the existing heatsink I do not want to replace the heatsink at all
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Dec 13, 2015 18:51
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There is none. Use hot glue, zip ties, or whatever you have handy.
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Dec 13, 2015 19:53
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I think zip ties may be slightly better than glue: removable and less chance of vibration once the glue sets hard. Just trim them off neat after tying.
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Dec 13, 2015 20:09
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My mistake then, I thought you were replacing the heat sink too. Back in my of repair days we made liberal use of that stuff to replace the heat sinks falling off all the HP systems with nvidia chipsets.
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Dec 15, 2015 17:08
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Seems like the best place for this question: I'm looking for a scanner/multi-function device that will let me scan straight to a USB hdd. My work place doesn't have an easily accessible scanner so I am looking to pick one up out of pocket to make my life easier. I am forbidden from using USB thumb drives or installing software/hooking up a new device to my workstation. I can utilize and external USB hdd however. I'd like to just scan and transfer directly - google isn't turning up anything useful or stuff that isn't $499. Anyone have experience with such a device?
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Dec 15, 2015 20:37
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I decided to go with zip ties heres my horrible creation:    
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Dec 16, 2015 18:24
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Hell, not like it needs to look pretty as long as it works. edit: fatal one thank you
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Dec 16, 2015 22:48
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There is a 13-pin header, next to the speaker and chassis intrusion headers, which is not depicted or documented in the motherboard manual. The label next to it says "LPCI", but the google results for that are fairly confusing. I've circled it in blue in this picture below. Does anybody know what a LPC1 header is?  EDIT: I'm dumb, right after posting I realised it doesn't say "LPCI", it says "LPC1". Googling that explains that it's an Intel Low Pin Count header for legacy devices. Nevermind. NihilCredo fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Dec 16, 2015 |
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Dec 16, 2015 23:10
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I'm not sure if there's a thread I should be looking at but here's my question: The headphone jack on my laptop is going and I'm not planning on upgrading anytime soon so I need a workaround. Are there good USB wired/wireless headphones? Or a good USB headphone jack? Do I have any other options? I think my laptop has native Bluetooth support but I've never needed to use it so I'm not 100% sure on that.
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Dec 17, 2015 07:40
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The Behringer UCA202 will plug into a USB port and give you lovely, clear audio through its headphone jack. Find it on Amazon. I would provide a link but I'm on my phone.
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Dec 17, 2015 07:50
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Epi Lepi posted:I'm not sure if there's a thread I should be looking at but here's my question: These are excellent USB headphones: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-JUG-00001-LifeChat-LX-3000-Headset/dp/B000J4WPW8 They're cheap and durable too.
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Dec 17, 2015 16:24
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Didn't want to clutter up the Parts thread with this but for anyone buying memory, stay the hell away from TEAM sticks. I know "RAM is RAM is RAM" and all, but I just had one of their sticks die in a build and it is an absolute nightmare getting any of their RMA information. Even if it's cheap at the time I plan to avoid them in the future in favor of something like GSkill, since I know from experience their warranty service is actually worth a drat.
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Dec 18, 2015 21:33
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I work from my home office with my work laptop (M4800) ~2 days a week. Looking to get a dock/KVM combo so I can easily swap over my 2 monitors (U2412M) and keyboard/mouse. This is the best deal I've found so far: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B010VG824I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3OVJML12ADPCS&coliid=I32RL1JZ3Q3556 http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0015DCIA6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3OVJML12ADPCS&coliid=I263ANHU8TRIOC&psc=1 Any advice on where to find cheaper comparable equipment or cautions about this particular hardware are greatly appreciated.
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Dec 18, 2015 22:21
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I'm not sure if this is the right place but I have a toshiba satellite laptop that turns itself off immediately after the windows logo shows up and the loading bar appears on startup. Previously I had to pay someone to reseat the ram because it wouldn't run and I have no skills/knowlege with computers. I haven't used this laptop in a long time so I dunno if this is like the old issue. It runs windows 7 but I couldn't really tell you any other specs without dxdiag
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Dec 18, 2015 23:47
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Grody posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place but I have a toshiba satellite laptop that turns itself off immediately after the windows logo shows up and the loading bar appears on startup. Previously I had to pay someone to reseat the ram because it wouldn't run and I have no skills/knowlege with computers. I haven't used this laptop in a long time so I dunno if this is like the old issue. It runs windows 7 but I couldn't really tell you any other specs without dxdiag There might be a problem with the power supply and battery. Alternately, the hard drive has something hosed up on it. If you can make a bootable USB flash drive or DVD with the Windows 10 installer tool, and use that to start up, that should at least help you figure out if the problem is just that the Windows install files are corrupt - if even booting off that results in the laptop suddenly shutting off, you're probably not going to be able to fix things. But if it doesn't, you've got a free Windows 10 upgrade and at least your files are probably safe.
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Dec 18, 2015 23:51
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bitcoin savant posted:Didn't want to clutter up the Parts thread with this but for anyone buying memory, stay the hell away from TEAM sticks. Tier 1: Branded, pre-tested memory chips on good quality PCBs with a heat spreader (from a real brand) Tier 2: Branded, pre-tested memory chips on cheaper PCBs or without heat a heat spreader (or from a mid-tier brand) Tier 3: Untested or out-of-spec memory chips on cheaper PCBs or without a heat spreader (from a bottom-tier brand, good brands will never ship these) Just looking at the list of the cheaper modules on Newegg, I'd never buy RAM from Avexir, Klevv, Panram, or Pareema because they are solidly bottom tier manufacturers. Team Group, Adata, and PNY are also focused on budget rather than quality. In my experience G.Skill has always been excellent and a great value. Kingston and Crucial are kind of a special case in my eyes because while they are generally trusted companies that produce some decent products, they are not above making poo poo-tier garbage if they think there is market demand. To me a good, trustworthy brand declines to make poo poo products. Alereon fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Dec 19, 2015 |
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Dec 19, 2015 00:21
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Lol if you think the heat spreaders on RAM are for anything other than hiding the actual chips used and pandering to the  crowd.
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Dec 19, 2015 00:31
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Geemer posted:Lol if you think the heat spreaders on RAM are for anything other than hiding the actual chips used and pandering to the Alereon fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Dec 19, 2015 |
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Dec 19, 2015 01:07
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This is kinda hardware, kinda software, but I've got an Asrock Z97m with that Killer NIC thing, and I've heard it has issues and is best to install the drivers only without the software suite. Can anyone point me to where do find those drivers?
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Dec 19, 2015 01:36
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Alereon posted:I'm not sure why anyone would say "RAM is RAM", there's definitely huge differences in quality between Tier 1/2/3 manufacturers. It's always worth paying the extra 5-10% for components from a good quality brand. Here's how I'd say it stacks up for RAM: KLEVV is the first party vendor for (highly regarded) memory manufacturer SK Hynix, so I dunno why you'd put them as bottom tier. Avexir is also a highly regarded brand for high bin memory (think $1000+ DDR3-3200 kits), and popular with overclockers.
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Dec 19, 2015 02:36
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BurritoJustice posted:KLEVV is the first party vendor for (highly regarded) memory manufacturer SK Hynix, so I dunno why you'd put them as bottom tier. quote:Avexir is also a highly regarded brand for high bin memory (think $1000+ DDR3-3200 kits), and popular with overclockers.
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Dec 19, 2015 04:13
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fishmech posted:There might be a problem with the power supply and battery. Alternately, the hard drive has something hosed up on it. I neglected to mention it but could the fact that it's an Australian laptop run through a wall converter, and it doesn't have a battery be the problem? I feel like the answer is obvious but It never was an issue before and I have an identical laptop with a foreign power source and no battery as well that has run for 5 years with no issue
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Dec 19, 2015 04:34
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Grody posted:I neglected to mention it but could the fact that it's an Australian laptop run through a wall converter, and it doesn't have a battery be the problem? I feel like the answer is obvious but It never was an issue before and I have an identical laptop with a foreign power source and no battery as well that has run for 5 years with no issue Yeah if either the power converter, or the Aussie power supply you have for the laptop, or both are flaky, you might be getting drop outs in power, and with no battery in to buffer over that, it pulls too much power during boot and shuts off. The thing to do might be to hunt down a local power supply for the laptop, or get a new battery on ebay (for many laptops they'll be like $20-$30, albeit not lasting as long as the genuine battery) and see if that helps at all.
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Dec 19, 2015 04:38
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Alereon posted:I'm not sure why anyone would say "RAM is RAM", there's definitely huge differences in quality between Tier 1/2/3 manufacturers. It's always worth paying the extra 5-10% for components from a good quality brand. Here's how I'd say it stacks up for RAM: future ghost fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Dec 19, 2015 |
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Dec 19, 2015 08:03
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fishmech posted:Yeah if either the power converter, or the Aussie power supply you have for the laptop, or both are flaky, you might be getting drop outs in power, and with no battery in to buffer over that, it pulls too much power during boot and shuts off. Do you know if it would have to be a specific battery because of the current difference or would just a regular toshiba sattelite battery work? And thanks for the help
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Dec 19, 2015 16:48
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Grody posted:Do you know if it would have to be a specific battery because of the current difference or would just a regular toshiba sattelite battery work? And thanks for the help Just search on ebay or amazon for "toshiba 'your laptop's model number' battery". You'll find a compatible battery, and it'll probably be the same one used by a number of other toshiba laptops.
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Dec 19, 2015 18:10
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fishmech posted:Just search on ebay or amazon for "toshiba 'your laptop's model number' battery". You'll find a compatible battery, and it'll probably be the same one used by a number of other toshiba laptops. Unfortunately the cheapest is 80 dollars but I don't live in Australia so the next cheapest is 170
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Dec 19, 2015 20:08
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I've got this hard drive from my old PC. I went to take it out and plug it into my new one to quickly copy over everything on it when I realized it's some non-SATA-based drive, it's some ASUS thing. I put my SATA HD from my old one into the new one to move a bunch of stuff over quickly, then moved it back to the old one since I don't plan on using them in the new one. After swapping my SATA HD out of the new one and into the old one to see if I can toss over files onto the SATA one from the non-SATA one, it's A: doing consistency checks when I boot up and B: not recognizing the non-SATA drive anymore. Is there a way to fix it? I've got an external HD that's got backups of stuff but it's some months out of date so I'd rather not use that if I can recover the stuff from this thing.  Are there adapters that would allow me to use SATA on this one? I tried searching but I've got no idea what to look for so it ended pretty quickly. And if it's the connections that are hosed(the drive is pretty drat old), is it at all possible to have it repaired? There are only connections for the leftmost and rightmost slots, not the central slot with the white plastic thing in it. edit: I'm not sure if this is a super involved or not question, sorry. If it is or requires more knowledge than I realized I'll ask elsewhere. Captain Invictus fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Dec 19, 2015 |
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Dec 19, 2015 22:28
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Captain Invictus posted:I've got this hard drive from my old PC. I went to take it out and plug it into my new one to quickly copy over everything on it when I realized it's some non-SATA-based drive, it's some ASUS thing. I put my SATA HD from my old one into the new one to move a bunch of stuff over quickly, then moved it back to the old one since I don't plan on using them in the new one. After swapping my SATA HD out of the new one and into the old one to see if I can toss over files onto the SATA one from the non-SATA one, it's A: doing consistency checks when I boot up and B: not recognizing the non-SATA drive anymore. Is there a way to fix it? I've got an external HD that's got backups of stuff but it's some months out of date so I'd rather not use that if I can recover the stuff from this thing. That's an IDE also known as PATA drive. It's what all computers used from the late 80s to when SATA came out. You can get an IDE to USB enclosure for like 10-15 bucks, and if it needs to be used inside the computer case you can buy either an IDE to SATA adapter for more money, or an IDE card for your computer for also more money. It is not some special ASUS thing. This is an example of an enclosure you could get that would handle it fine: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...S5J6NJ9A2JYS2HF There's cheaper ones if you hunt around.
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Dec 19, 2015 22:31
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fishmech posted:That's an IDE also known as PATA drive. It's what all computers used from the late 80s to when SATA came out. You can get an IDE to USB enclosure for like 10-15 bucks, and if it needs to be used inside the computer case you can buy either an IDE to SATA adapter for more money, or an IDE card for your computer for also more money.
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Dec 19, 2015 22:36
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Back in the day every motherboard came with a branded IDE cable. SATA is just too small to put much branding on. That middle bit with the white plastic bit in it is actually what you used to tell the drive if it was the primary (master), or secondary (slave) drive on the channel. You can see the diagram of the options on the drive's label. You might need to set it to master or cable select for the USB enclosure to work, as that setting it's on now doesn't seem like a valid option. (Though it'll probably just default to cable select.)
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Dec 19, 2015 22:47
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