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Geemer posted:Back in the day every motherboard came with a branded IDE cable. SATA is just too small to put much branding on. Usually that jumper being on some weird pins just means it's a storage position and the drive is set to single or master. It's as if the jumper isn't on any pins at all in that position.
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Dec 19, 2015 22:53
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A Proper Uppercut posted:This is kinda hardware, kinda software, but I've got an Asrock Z97m with that Killer NIC thing, and I've heard it has issues and is best to install the drivers only without the software suite. Can anyone point me to where do find those drivers? Once you unzip it, find your version of Windows, and then use the folder called ke2200. There's no installer program, these are just driver files you locate with the Update Driver wizard from Device Manager.
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Dec 20, 2015 01:17
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Can't really decide if my issue deserves its on thread in tech support or not, but here's my issue: I recently decided to upgrade my motherboard from an Asrock h97m to an Asus z97-a. The old mobo had been gifted to my gf along with new parts for her own upgrade. Parts list: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/penpad/saved/czQJ7P So I installed all the parts fired it up and the dram light is stuck on red and I'm getting no video output. Everything seems to be working fine (only exception, which I'm certain is unrelated, is the fan hub on my case won't work if I plug the cpu fan into it then the hub into the cpu fan port on the mobo, but if I plug the hub into a different fan port and the CPU fan directly to the motherboard it works fine) I've pushed the memory ok button and no luck, I've swapped ram positions, tried one stick instead of two, different brands of sticks, and still nothing. Is it safe to assume the mobo is defective? I'll probably reach out to asus tech support tomorrow or Monday before doing a rma. Anyone else have this problem or know a fix?
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Dec 20, 2015 05:16
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So my dad had an IDE to USB 2.0 enclosure that he let me borrow. I hooked it up and it recognized the hard drive on my new computer for about 12 seconds, then it disappeared from the list of hardware. What does that mean? lovely or damaged connections? Same thing happened when I tried hooking it up to my old computer. I had removed the jumper from it before trying it on both occasions, when replacing the jumper, nothing happened altogether when hooking it back up. I'm still going to try with the SATA adapter once it shows up on tuesday or wednesday, but this is weirding me out. I know a computer center that might be able to help me out with recovery for an affordable price so all is not lost if the drive is not able to be recovered via IDE to [x] adapters.
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Dec 20, 2015 22:59
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Does that enclosure come with a power adapter?
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Dec 20, 2015 23:04
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Wilford Cutlery posted:Does that enclosure come with a power adapter? Yep. it's one of these.
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Dec 20, 2015 23:07
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I have a "MSI Z97 Gaming 5" motherboard and I'm installing "EVGA Superclocked DDR 3 Series Memory" (there are two of them in the package). There are 4 places to place the memory in (DIMM1, DIMM2, DIMM3, DIMM4), but the MSI manual says, "DDR memory modules are not interchangeable with DDR2, and the DDR3 standard is not backwards compatible. Always install DDR3 memory modules in DDR3 DDIMM slots." Does that mean I should install my two DDR3 Memory modules into DIMM1 and DIMM3?
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Dec 21, 2015 00:29
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SgtSteel91 posted:I have a "MSI Z97 Gaming 5" motherboard and I'm installing "EVGA Superclocked DDR 3 Series Memory" (there are two of them in the package).
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Dec 21, 2015 01:16
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I think I messed up with the thermal paste. I put the thermal paste on, put on the fan, but I had to remove the fan, and now I think I have to remove the paste and reapply it. How do I remove thermal paste?
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Dec 21, 2015 02:08
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SgtSteel91 posted:I think I messed up with the thermal paste. I put the thermal paste on, put on the fan, but I had to remove the fan, and now I think I have to remove the paste and reapply it. How do I remove thermal paste? I always used isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Make sure that the cpu dries completely before going for another try.
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Dec 21, 2015 02:24
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So I think I got as much thermal paste as I could off of the CPU. But there's still some stuff not on the top of it, but on the lower plate before it dips into the motherboard. It's hard to get that stuff off without removing the CPU itself from the motherboard. Can I leave it be, or should I remove the CPU and clean it?
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Dec 21, 2015 03:10
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That should be fine, as long as its normal white paste and not metallic stuff like Arctic Silver that's electrically conductive.
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Dec 21, 2015 03:14
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SgtSteel91 posted:So I think I got as much thermal paste as I could off of the CPU. How much thermal paste are you using? Did it leak onto the sides when you were removing the fan or when you installed the fan? Anyway, I'd probably go safer route and remove the cpu and clean the sides too. Careful with the alcohol on any part that is not the heat spreader.
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Dec 21, 2015 03:15
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Ok so I removed the CPU and I think I managed to get as much of the thermal paste off without it or the alcohol touching the green parts. I'll let it sit and dry for the night before I try again tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
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Dec 21, 2015 03:34
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With the amounts you apply while wiping, isopropylalcohol will have fully evaporated within a few minutes. I sometimes use it in the lab to clean solvent-sensitive parts for coating application and don't even bother waiting after wiping it off because it evaporates so fast.
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Dec 21, 2015 17:30
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(cross-posting with the laptop megathread) I'm refurbing an HP Folio 13-2000 and this little guy popped out. Anyone know what it is/does? Sorry I can't focus better, got a case of the shaky hands.
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Dec 21, 2015 20:12
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Wilford Cutlery posted:(cross-posting with the laptop megathread) I'm refurbing an HP Folio 13-2000 and this little guy popped out. Anyone know what it is/does?
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Dec 21, 2015 20:35
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Looks like a thingy to me, definitely gubbins
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Dec 21, 2015 20:36
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Just following up with this, talked to ASUS support this morning and they believe the board is defective.
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Dec 21, 2015 20:37
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So my motherboard has Sysfan1, 2, and 3 as well as CPUfan1 and 2. I have three fans that came with the case and one for the cooling unit. Which fans should I plug into Sysfan and CPUfan?
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Dec 21, 2015 21:28
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Alereon posted:Can you take a picture of the other side? Sure thing, here are a couple of better pics:  
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Dec 21, 2015 21:35
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I would like to use a USB hub to connect my keyboard and mouse to the computer, what should I bear in mind when looking for a hub? Thanks.
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Dec 21, 2015 21:40
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Vier posted:I would like to use a USB hub to connect my keyboard and mouse to the computer, what should I bear in mind when looking for a hub? Wilford Cutlery posted:Sure thing, here are a couple of better pics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vHtcnDQNSc Probably something from around under the palmrest/trackpad area, but no idea what it was meant to do. Looks like it was screwed down improperly and broke free - fortunately if you can figure out where it was supposed to be it doesn't look like any traces were compromised at least on the surface of the board. future ghost fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Dec 21, 2015 |
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Dec 21, 2015 21:53
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SgtSteel91 posted:So my motherboard has Sysfan1, 2, and 3 as well as CPUfan1 and 2. I have three fans that came with the case and one for the cooling unit. Which fans should I plug into Sysfan and CPUfan? My first instinct would be to stick the CPU cooler's fan in CPUfan1 and the case fans into Sysfan1, 2 and 3. Which fan header the case fans are connected to doesn't matter terribly much, but some motherboards have software that can alter their speed on temperature demands, so check the manual if there's a preferred order.
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Dec 21, 2015 21:59
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SgtSteel91 posted:So my motherboard has Sysfan1, 2, and 3 as well as CPUfan1 and 2. I have three fans that came with the case and one for the cooling unit. Which fans should I plug into Sysfan and CPUfan? Well, the fan on your cpu heatsink should go in CPUfan 1 and then you can decide what you want to do with the other ones. Essentially you're using those so that you can get information about the fans through the bios and also through programs like speedfan or cpu-z. Just remember which fans you plugged into which so that you know what each of the fans is doing when you're monitoring them.
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Dec 21, 2015 22:00
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Yesterday I messed up applying the thermal paste and had to clean it off. I cleaned it off the CPU and cooler but it was late and I decided to reapply the cooling unit later. The motherboard is screwed into the case with the CPU, the case is also sealed, and the cooling unit was left out. Should I clean the CPU and cooling unit before applying the thermal paste and hooking in the cooling unit?
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Dec 21, 2015 22:49
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SgtSteel91 posted:Yesterday I messed up applying the thermal paste and had to clean it off. I cleaned it off the CPU and cooler but it was late and I decided to reapply the cooling unit later. The motherboard is screwed into the case with the CPU, the case is also sealed, and the cooling unit was left out. Should I clean the CPU and cooling unit before applying the thermal paste and hooking in the cooling unit? I'm confused. Are you asking if you should clean them again because you think dust got on there from being left out last night? A quick sweep with a microfiber towel should be just fine.
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Dec 22, 2015 01:16
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RhoA posted:I'm confused. Are you asking if you should clean them again because you think dust got on there from being left out last night? A quick sweep with a microfiber towel should be just fine. Yeah, that's what I was getting at. Thanks!
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Dec 22, 2015 01:26
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I've always used coffee filters for cleaning thermal paste primarily because they don't leave crud around when you're done.
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Dec 22, 2015 16:57
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fishmech posted:This is an example of an enclosure you could get that would handle it fine: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...S5J6NJ9A2JYS2HF
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Dec 23, 2015 13:00
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I got a Thrustmaster gamepad that used to work perfectly fine on windows 7 but now I just pulled it out to play broforce, on windows 8.1, and while it shows everything being normal in windows' and thrustmasters calibration tool it goes apeshit in games and presses random buttons. Been googling up and down but couldn't find anything helpful so far.
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Dec 23, 2015 22:21
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The PC building thread recommends changing hard drives out after 5 years as they become more likely to die. As a result I am going to buy a 2 TB drive to replace my current 1 TB drive. Is there a way I can run these together so the computer thinks they are one drive but when the old one inevitably dies I don't lose any data? Otherwise I guess I just have to throw away a perfectly good drive because it has a high chance of dying. Also related to this what is the best way to transfer data from one to another? My current drive has a bunch of system linked poo poo which I don't want to break so if my above idea doesn't work I just want to straight copy the drive by they are different sizes so I can't do an image?
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Dec 24, 2015 04:40
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Red_Fred posted:The PC building thread recommends changing hard drives out after 5 years as they become more likely to die. As a result I am going to buy a 2 TB drive to replace my current 1 TB drive. Is there a way I can run these together so the computer thinks they are one drive but when the old one inevitably dies I don't lose any data? Otherwise I guess I just have to throw away a perfectly good drive because it has a high chance of dying. You can do a software raid 1 in Windows but I'd avoid it. I was doing that for my music, pictures, and documents and one drive started to give back corrupt data. Windows eventually detected synchronisation errors but couldn't tell which drive was good, and I was less experienced back then. Unthinkingly I repaired the array in Windows and that lead to my only live copies of many files being corrupted. Eventually I restored everything I could from an old external (this was before I had a cloud backup going), then manually looked through the remaining music and pictures to find corrupted files. Also gently caress file systems without checksumming. A filesystem should at least be able to tell me which files have damaged blocks, it's not the 90s anymore. My recommendation is to get a new drive, copy all the content from the old drive, then unplug it and leave it alone in case you need it. E: Also you can image a smaller drive onto a larger one, then later expand the partition to fill the new drive. The important thing is to avoid destroying the data on the old drive in case you screw something up or the new drive is bad. Desuwa fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Dec 24, 2015 |
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Dec 24, 2015 05:40
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Red_Fred posted:The PC building thread recommends changing hard drives out after 5 years as they become more likely to die. As a result I am going to buy a 2 TB drive to replace my current 1 TB drive. Is there a way I can run these together so the computer thinks they are one drive but when the old one inevitably dies I don't lose any data? Otherwise I guess I just have to throw away a perfectly good drive because it has a high chance of dying.
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Dec 24, 2015 09:48
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Does anyone know if there is a way to make a surface book trackpad have macbook like gestures? I really miss not being able to go backwards and forwards with a swipe.
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Dec 25, 2015 15:05
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When using "Logitech Gaming Software" with a gaming mouse (G502), what should "pointer speed" and "enhance pointer precision" be set to in windows for optimal result? I'm guessing (please correct me if I'm wrong) you want windows to be 1:1 and control "speed" via DPI settings on the mouse itself -- but no clue what corresponds to 1:1. Chuu fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Dec 25, 2015 |
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Dec 25, 2015 20:59
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Chuu posted:When using "Logitech Gaming Software" with a gaming mouse (G502), what should "pointer speed" and "enhance pointer precision" be set to in windows for optimal result? 6/11 and uncheck enhance pp
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Dec 25, 2015 21:01
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Chuu posted:When using "Logitech Gaming Software" with a gaming mouse (G502), what should "pointer speed" and "enhance pointer precision" be set to in windows for optimal result?
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Dec 26, 2015 02:27
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Alereon posted:Max out the pointer speed and check "enhance pointer precision", control mouse sensitivity via DPI. "Enhanced Pointer Precision" is mouse acceleration which is pretty critical for a mouse-based UI. Max pointer speed is not 1:1, which is bad. He wants pointer speed at notch 6 of 11. Pointer precision is mouse acceleration, yes. 99% of gamers don't want mouse acceleration as it feels inconsistent and bad. If you want acceleration in game (unlikely), its best to enable it at the end of the chain (in-game).
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Dec 26, 2015 07:23
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BurritoJustice posted:Max pointer speed is not 1:1, which is bad. He wants pointer speed at notch 6 of 11.
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Dec 26, 2015 07:30
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