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spankmeister posted:I've tried a spray cleaner but I can't get rid of the corrosion with a contact cleaner alone, I guess what I'm looking for is tips on what kind of tools work best to get into the small holes. Buy some gun cleaning brushes, brass I think would be best. You may find other similar pipe cleaning brushes that will work, for peanuts.
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Dec 21, 2015 19:13
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Any maintenance to be done on an '04 4WD GMC Envoy universal joints?
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Dec 21, 2015 20:36
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spankmeister posted:Maybe the PO was a 300 pound gorilla and he overtorqued it? Raluek posted:Yeah. Thread galling, or plastic deformation of the threads so they're no longer the right shape to come out cleanly. Could be either/or. I don't think the car had actually seen that much work done to it before we bought it (it was my sister's first car). All I really care at this point is that it was donated years ago, so it will never darken any driveway where I might have to care about it ever again. meatpimp posted:Any maintenance to be done on an '04 4WD GMC Envoy universal joints? I don't think GM is a fan of greasable U-joints, so probably not.
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Dec 21, 2015 20:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:While I've got nothing for you in the way of an estimate, the rest of your assessment is dead on. Starters are only difficult if they are hard to get to, and on most cars they can be accessed easily. Raluek posted:This is true, but don't be put off by this Breetai, because the hammer trick worked it's almost definitely the starter itself. Only begin to be concerned if a replacement does not alleviate your strange noise. Thanks for the input; poo poo like this happening just before Christmas has really put a damper on things, but knowing that it's manageable is a big plus. 
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Dec 21, 2015 21:56
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I'm back to working on my 05 Civic 5 speed. You all talked me off the cliff after I hosed up a timing belt change a while back, if that stirs any memories. I was driving on some pretty pathetic tires for a while and there was a lot of road noise and unnecessary wiggle. I finally got new ones all around and an alignment and things were just great, it was like having a new car again. Last Friday, as I was driving to pick up kids, I braked and there was a grinding noise coming from what sounded like the drivers side front. When I got off the brake, it didn't stop, but it did a few seconds later. Later, it started again when I turned out of the parking lot of the daycare, and then went on all the way home, about a mile. I parked it, used a different car to go to work all weekend, and when I got home today I propped her up on jack stands. First things first, I tried manually rotating the wheels, and there was no noticeable difference right to left. I then started it, put it in gear, and got out. The passenger side wheel was puttering along but the driver side wheel was just twitching. It would give a little half a degree advance, then stop for several seconds, and then jump again. Self, I said, that probably isn't good for the drive train, so I shut it down. I took the wheels off. Now, I don't know anything at all about brakes, except that I do know about I'm sure with 100k on it, I need pads and rotors. At least. I took these pictures. One question, is the pad supposed to rest against the rotor when the car is off?  Driver side #1  Driver side #2  Driver side #3  Passenger side
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Dec 21, 2015 22:31
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Yes, the pads should contact the rotors at all times. However, it looks like those pads are down to basically nothing left. The test you did with the front wheels up in the air probably didn't tell you anything useful. If the car has traction control, it would have been trying to intervene. If you have an open differential, it wouldn't take much additional resistance on one side (or the other) to only have one wheel spinning.
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Dec 21, 2015 22:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yes, the pads should contact the rotors at all times. However, it looks like those pads are down to basically nothing left. Ah. So, new pads for sure. Do the rotors look alright?
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Dec 21, 2015 22:55
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They look OK, but it's hard to tell from photos. Run your fingernail along the rotor from center to edge. If you can feel significant grooving, like it catches your fingernail and feels rough, then it's time for resurfacing or a new rotor, whichever is cheaper. These days replacing the rotors is usually cheaper than paying someone to turn/resurface them.
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Dec 21, 2015 23:03
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Leperflesh posted:They look OK, but it's hard to tell from photos. Run your fingernail along the rotor from center to edge. If you can feel significant grooving, like it catches your fingernail and feels rough, then it's time for resurfacing or a new rotor, whichever is cheaper. These days replacing the rotors is usually cheaper than paying someone to turn/resurface them. The rotor surface is pretty smooth until you get to the last centimeter towards the O.D. Is the pads being worn down to nubs the cause of the grinding noise?
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Dec 21, 2015 23:12
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It certainly could be. Sometimes pads have little metal tabs installed for the express purpose of squealing loudly when the pad material is worn down. But I've also seen pads get worn down to the backing plate (resulting in a trashed rotor) without so much as a sound.
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Dec 21, 2015 23:40
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If your time is worth more than money, just buy new rotors. Most places won't turn them anymore because there is some federal safety law about how much they can be out of spec from oem. If your money is worth more, just change the pads and see what happens.
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Dec 21, 2015 23:43
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Christobevii3 posted:If your time is worth more than money, just buy new rotors. Most places won't turn them anymore because there is some federal safety law about how much they can be out of spec from oem. If your money is worth more, just change the pads and see what happens. I'm going to do pads and rotors when I get a chance. I've got to drive the car two more times before I can lay it up and do that, but it doesn't look like a wheel is about to fall off. I did not mention that the grinding is like a file on metal chuff chuff chuff that is directly proportional in frequency to speed (up to a certain point where it stops can't hear it over rolling noise
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Dec 21, 2015 23:59
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You may also have a seized caliper, which usually just takes some grease to fix. Every Honda I have owned has had a seized caliper at some point in the past couple of years. Not sure why, other than Michigan salt, I guess. I would also check the caliper little rubber boots on the caliper bracket and make sure they arent torn. If they are, replace em and regrease.
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Dec 22, 2015 02:31
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I am thinking about buying a 2015 Focus ST (with all the year-end deals). The one I want is red, and has factory black stripes, which are awful. Otherwise its exactly what I want, the base package without recaros, with alloys and summer tires. I assume the dealer can remove the stripes, but should I be worried about paint mismatching? I looked up the build date, February 2015. So it could have been siting out in the sun for almost 10 months now...
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Dec 22, 2015 03:47
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I'd say replace those brakes asap the roots look like they may not be so great.. for a civic you can probably find them for 30-40 each or get the turned for $20 buy the new ones. Don't get the lowest level of pads ever. Go with next level or higher.. Don't buy the little packets of brake grease they have a big tube of the poo poo for like $.50-$1 more than buying 2 of those will cost and it'll last you longer than you will remember where it is. All in all should set you back around 100-120 for rotors and pads.
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Dec 22, 2015 03:52
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tactlessbastard posted:I'm going to do pads and rotors when I get a chance. I've got to drive the car two more times before I can lay it up and do that, but it doesn't look like a wheel is about to fall off. I did not mention that the grinding is like a file on metal chuff chuff chuff that is directly proportional in frequency to speed (up to a certain point where it stops can't hear it over rolling noise One of your pads is already metal-to-metal judging by the pics you've posted. It's probably an inboard one which is why you can't detect anything wrong with the discs.
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Dec 22, 2015 06:30
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Elmnt80 posted:Are you more concerned for security or keeping stuff dry? More for security.
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Dec 22, 2015 17:45
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Slavvy posted:One of your pads is already metal-to-metal judging by the pics you've posted. It's probably an inboard one which is why you can't detect anything wrong with the discs. An opportunity to work on it came up this morning, I had a few hours off between shifts. After a quick trip to the parts store for pads, rotors, an impact driver, and a wire brush and various chemicals, I was able to get out of there for about $160. Changed them all out, no major problems to report. I just drove it, stops like a champ and no more noise. One thing though, when the wheels were off and you rotated the hub, you could see a slight eccentricity in the rotation of the new rotor on the driver's side. With the caliper on, you'd get a variable amount of brake pad noise as you completed one rotation. And here's the real kicker:  On the left, you have the driver's side outboard brake pad compared to the passenger side outboard brake pad. What's causing that?
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Dec 22, 2015 17:51
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Excessive outboard pad wear is usually caused by sticking or seized caliper slider pins. See if the pins move in and out smoothly. Clean, and relube them with high temperature silicone brake grease. Excessive inboard pad wear is usually caused by the caliper piston itself hanging up insisde the caliper. This requires rebuilding the caliper (in the US this means buy a new caliper) The place on the bracket where the pad slides could also be a cause. Replace the hardware, clean and lube the hardware where the pad slides on it. This generic picture shows the breakdown of the caliper parts. The big piston does not normally come out unless you're rebuilding one. You need a tiny hone to do this part properly.  What you noticed is varying lateral runout on the rotor. This is usually caused by rust on the hub. Gotta clean it off. Most people notice this problem as "warped rotors" - there's no such thing as warped rotors. There is other things that can cause the pulsation effect too. Uneven pad material transfer, and disc thickness variation - which is the end effect of the rusty hub thing. This will cause pulsation in your steering wheel eventually. 
0toShifty fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Dec 22, 2015 |
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Dec 22, 2015 18:30
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The trunk seal on my 2006 Civic Si is leaking and it's driving me loving crazy. Are there any AI posts on tracking that poo poo down and resolving it?
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Dec 22, 2015 19:54
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Check the gaskets around your tail lights first. Pretty common issue on Hondas.
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Dec 22, 2015 20:15
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Important AI question: Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna?
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Dec 22, 2015 22:36
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gvibes posted:Important AI question: Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna? Nissan Quest, obviously.
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Dec 22, 2015 22:52
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gvibes posted:Important AI question: Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna? Vasectomy.
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Dec 22, 2015 23:00
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gvibes posted:Important AI question: Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna? Odyssey x100
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Dec 22, 2015 23:08
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gvibes posted:Important AI question: Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna? Used or new is the question. Second gen Odysseys have lots of transmission issues. Trying to be too much like Caravans lol
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Dec 22, 2015 23:16
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I agree on the Odyssey.
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Dec 22, 2015 23:23
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Some followers of my long-running GBS thread suggested I ask this in here: can anyone recommend a shop (or, maybe even better, an individual) to work on a car in the Las Vegas area? The short of it is that my car, which I am currently living in, needs to get me across the country to a new job. The car desperately needs attention before attempting a road trip of any length. The brakes on all four wheels are probably at the point of just gouging chunks of metal into one another, and the car has nothing left that could be reasonably called suspension. There are numerous other issues, as well. Thanks to some generous goons, and local friends, I have some money to put toward fixing these things, but not a lot of money. The mechanic who worked on the car in the past is currently unreachable. I liked my relationship with him: I bought parts at whatever price I could find them at, and he turned those parts into working pieces of my vehicle. An arrangement similar to that would be nice, but the local ads are full of "CERTIFIED MASTER MOBILE MECHANIC" ads, written with varying degrees of broken English. If there is a better thread for this, let me know. People suggested the "stupid questions" thread as a place to start.
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Dec 22, 2015 23:24
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I have a bunch of questions 1. I own 2 cars. My brother owns a car but it's got problems so I kept my old car in case of emergency in case he needs a ride to work. It sits on the street most of the time, I start it every week to keep the battery charged and to move it for street sweeping. I'm paying for insurance every month but are there any options for having the car being ready in a few hours notice to drive in terms of insurance? And does your car need insurance if I only keep it on the street (garage is not available)? I'm liability only. How about registration? 2. Does it really matter what insurance provider I have if I am looking for liability only? I've gotten some really cheap quotes, for like $30 and $40.
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Dec 22, 2015 23:28
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That, and this. I'd settle for a lot less power than that Bisimoto one as long as it still had that sound. Also, a non-broken suspension.
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Dec 22, 2015 23:36
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b0nes posted:I have a bunch of questions I assume you're in the US. 1. Just starting the car is inadequate for keeping the battery charged, and in fact you are probably slowly destroying the battery. It needs to be driven, fast enough for the alternator to actually produce a charge. Ten minutes a week where you hit 35 or 40mph at least once is adequate. Much better, though, is to buy and hook up a battery tender; this requires you be able to run an extension cord from an outlet to the car, though. Use an outdoor-rated cord. If the car is on a public road it must be insured. You can, however, park the car in a private place, and stop insurance. You can almost certainly get it insured within a few hours from any insurer: everyone in America who buys a car at a dealership and then drives it away within an hour or so, does this. Provided it's a weekday during business hours. You will also need a printer so you can print off an insurance card the insurer emails to you. There are also options for temporary or short-term insurance, including day-to-day insurance. Annualized, the rates would be terrible, but if you just need to insure a car for a few days a month, it's an affordable option that saves you money over maintaining a policy continuously. The car must be registered in order to legally drive it. You almost definitely cannot just register the car on the same day you want to drive it, and then re-register it non-op or de-register it or something. Generally states want a years' registration fee up front, but temporary registration is sometimes an option. Exact rules for registration vary from state to state. Here in California, for example, you can register a car as non-operable indefinitely for a small fee... which makes it easier to re-register as operable later. However a non-op registration does not allow you to park the car on public streets. You have to keep it on private property. It's also not legal to drive that way. 2. Yes, it matters. Some insurers are excellent about quickly evaluating and paying out a claim, while others are terrible. Some have great customer service, some suck. And exactly what is covered, beyond the state-required minimums, varies from one insurer to the next. Also, almost nobody should be driving with just the state-mandated minimum liability insurance. If you are in an accident with an expensive vehicle, or (especially) you cause a significant injury, once the liability limits on your lovely policy are met, you are personally liable for the rest. Considering medical treatment can easily run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars, the state minimum liability coverages in the US are ridiculously inadequate. In addition, unless you're willing to just eat the cost of repairing or replacing your own vehicle and your own body in an accident, you should have basic collision and "uninsured motorist" coverage too. Often these add-ons are relatively cheap compared to the liability coverage. "But I can't afford insurance, it's expensive!" say a lot of people. Well, if you are struggling financially such that an extra hundred bucks a month or so in full coverage costs is going to be a serious hardship, then you are especially vulnerable financially to the costs of an accident in which your coverage proves inadequate. For some people, minimum liability makes sense, but for most people, it's really not good enough. Anyway. How much is your car worth? Is it OK with you if it gets stolen and you get nothing from your insurance? What if some drunk crashes into it and then flees the scene? Most likely if you have no offstreet parking, your best bet is to insure it properly, maintain it properly, and assume those costs as part of watching out for your brother. Or, your brother can get his poo poo together and fix his car, which is probably in the long run a lot cheaper for both of you.
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Dec 22, 2015 23:53
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Do not stop your liability insurance and park the car off street. That is terrible advice without knowing what state the OP is in. Take NY for example, if your liability insurance lapses, and you haven't turned in the plates, your license is automatically suspended as well.
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Dec 23, 2015 00:05
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some texas redneck posted:Check the gaskets around your tail lights first. Pretty common issue on Hondas.
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Dec 23, 2015 00:05
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The car is worth only about $1500. Also i wanted to know if a car could be stored in a storage unit? And with the issue about keeping the battery charged, I was thinking about getting one of these. I live in a sunny area and hooking up to a cord isn't feasible right now. I never thought about the insurance that way. as soon as I start working i'm getting full coverage.
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Dec 23, 2015 00:05
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Why wouldn't you cut the insurance, sell the beater car, and just get a rental car at $30 a day when you need one? Unless you need it for more than a week a year seems kinda pointless.
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Dec 23, 2015 00:15
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rdb posted:Do not stop your liability insurance and park the car off street. That is terrible advice without knowing what state the OP is in. Take NY for example, if your liability insurance lapses, and you haven't turned in the plates, your license is automatically suspended as well. Man, gently caress this. gently caress California, too, for requiring registration for vehicles that don't drive on the roads for a few years.
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Dec 23, 2015 00:16
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rdb posted:Do not stop your liability insurance and park the car off street. That is terrible advice without knowing what state the OP is in. Take NY for example, if your liability insurance lapses, and you haven't turned in the plates, your license is automatically suspended as well. Exactly this. All of this is very very state dependent. IN PA they may or may not get lovely about returning plates depending on how long it's off the road. The official line is that they must be turned in. And then you need to re-reg for an entire year (not prorated if you turn the plates in) to just put it on the road again.
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Dec 23, 2015 00:38
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Christobevii3 posted:Why wouldn't you cut the insurance, sell the beater car, and just get a rental car at $30 a day when you need one? Unless you need it for more than a week a year seems kinda pointless. My family is giving me poo poo about selling my car, especially since they bought it for me. Yeah I know i'm an adult I can do what I want but I still have to hear their BS.
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Dec 23, 2015 00:40
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gvibes posted:Important AI question: Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna? The light blue toyota sienna Or dark blue Honda Odyssey That way you can pretty much get away with any crime if you take your tags off. In all honesty when we we researching our van purchase it came down to whichever one my wife liked better. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Dec 23, 2015 |
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Dec 23, 2015 00:48
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gvibes posted:Important AI question: Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna? For the same year and mileage you'll pay a decent premium for the Odyssey, so if you are going to have little kids, their friends, pets, etc all packed into it dropping food and making a mess - get the Sienna. When we cross-shopped there was nothing particularly special about the Honda that would warrant the extra cash, but we didn't want leather, Nav, power sliders or anything. We've put 90k on one that was an actual Hertz rental and we haven't had to do anything other than basic maintenance. I do need to change plugs soon, but I doubt that's a fun experience on either.
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Dec 23, 2015 02:12
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