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BUGS OF SPRING posted:It was a cheap all purpose blade from Candian Tire. I was just cutting the tall side of a 2x4 making some of those reindeer ornaments as stocking stuffers. It's basically the max height of my saw though so I am definitely pushing it. Ahh, okay. Glad to hear you weren't hurt, at least. And thanks for the pointer to those ornaments; I'll have to try making one or two. I'm really pushing things on last-minute gifts, though; I'm throwing together a couple of serving trays for my brother and sister, and I'm heading out to travel on the 24th -- which is just enough time for me to do all of the gluing and wood shaping, assuming I let glue dry overnight. I'll have to bring my finish with me and do the finishing away from my workshop; fortunately I don't have to fly.
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Dec 22, 2015 19:35
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There are a ton of factors that can cause a blade to break, feed rate, blade sharpness, failing weld on the blade, but the fact of the matter is that is just happens. While the BANG!! can be scary as gently caress there is almost no risk of injury, with or without your blade guard. When it breaks all the tension on the blade is lot and they really don't move "forward" after that.
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Dec 22, 2015 19:40
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Magnus Praeda posted:For those of you who are filming, what cameras are you using? Curious about this too. I have about 1000 instagram followers and i am thinking about making some better videos. I /think/ my wife got me that same Iphone tripod for xmas.
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Dec 22, 2015 19:41
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I'm just using an Olympus Tough my fiance bought for our vacation. I don't think we paid near that much though so it might be we own an earlier model than in that link. Since it is a waterproof camera I figured it would be mostly saw dust proof as well. It's probably not the best camera, but she wouldn't let me use her fancy DSLRs. I'm pretty happy with the results for now. If I ever record voice I could see myself wanting an upgrade though.
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Dec 22, 2015 19:51
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Magnus Praeda posted:For those of you who are filming, what cameras are you using? Started with my phone but that is a little bit limiting. Bought a JVC camcorder which does a nice job, is 1080i, but the lens doesn't have wide enough angle which is troublesome in my cramped shop. Tried a GE but it was too grainy in low light. Now I have a Sony point and shoot with a 23mm lens and I like it by you can't see the screen. My general advice is get something with a wide angle, but not a Gopro.
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Dec 22, 2015 20:18
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Tried my hand at making a picture frame with my kids in it. Harder than I thought, infact it was harder than the cutting board with sliding dovetail. Those mitres are such bitches.  Back's not so important but that's what it looks like. It'll be a christmas gift for my parents.
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Dec 22, 2015 20:19
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Miters are a pain in the rear end to glue. I got a strap clamp for holding my frames together when I was doing picture frames; makes things a lot easier because it increases tension at each corner uniformly and thus keeps the pieces from sliding around while they get clamped into position.
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Dec 22, 2015 20:25
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mds2 posted:There are a ton of factors that can cause a blade to break, feed rate, blade sharpness, failing weld on the blade, but the fact of the matter is that is just happens. My bandsaw came with a whole bunch of home welded blades (and a welding kit), so I've had quite a few break on me as the welds aren't the best. The worst part is waiting for the wheels to stop spinning, with no blade on them they'll keep going for a good 5 minutes.
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Dec 22, 2015 22:32
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Magnus Praeda posted:For those of you who are filming, what cameras are you using? I have a few cameras that I use. For talky bits, I use a Samsung NX1000 that I've had for a while. I record audio separately and sync it up in post. For wide angle stuff I have a knockoff GoPro made by Astak (it's the camera that Fastcap rebrands and sells). Both record in 1080p/30.
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Dec 23, 2015 06:59
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So my wife got me Taunton's complete woodworking guide because I've been screwing around making cat furniture with 2x4s and a plunge router. If I was going to pick up another tool, what would be the best basic item? I have a few clamps and a skillsaw, not sure if a table saw would be best or what. Anyway I'll be looking at all the awesome things I can't do for the rest of the weekend while this $100 gift card to home depot sits awaiting a fate.
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Dec 26, 2015 03:19
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You should have a circular saw, table saw, or bandsaw; no workshop is really complete without one (edit: of the three). They each have different strengths and weaknesses (price, capability, ease of use, safety, etc.), but they're also all versatile enough to do each others' tasks for the most part, especially since you already have a router. Once you get a saw, you should also consider getting or building a router table. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Dec 26, 2015 |
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Dec 26, 2015 03:35
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This year for christmas, my table saw gave me the special smoke from inside it's motor. I was down in the shop messing around while waiting for food to finish and from the saw running great, shut down and then 2 minutes later I hit the button and it spun up, groaned and lost RPM's, sounded like it was getting rapid intermittent power and then shut down. Caps are fine, so it toasted a winding, I assume. It's a Leeson 3hp 220 motor, so lets see if Grizzly will give me another one for free!
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Dec 26, 2015 04:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You should have a circular saw, table saw, or bandsaw; no workshop is really complete without one (edit: of the three). They each have different strengths and weaknesses (price, capability, ease of use, safety, etc.), but they're also all versatile enough to do each others' tasks for the most part, especially since you already have a router. Yeah I have just a circular saw and then this big rear end old beam I used as a guide with clamps. It's pretty hokey but my cats haven't complained yet. Router table it a good idea though, I have the free hand plunge router but I haven't gotten a ton of use out of it yet. Really I have no big projects, I was going to start making small boxes just to practice joints.
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Dec 26, 2015 04:16
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I've done some reading on reddit and various other forums, but didn't realize this thread existed. Over the past year I've been renovating my house. Started with scraping popcorn and skim coating, did tile, installed can lights, and lastly installed a floating cork floor. For the floor I bought the 12" Kobalt compound miter saw and a high-tooth count Irwin blade. That worked great, but I had to borrow a friend's Craftsman contractor table saw that was really lacking. The fence never stayed locked in place, vibrated a lot, took forever to spin down, etc. I returned the saw after I finished the flooring and now I'm installing new baseboards and door casings, and I desperately need a table saw to rip the seven foot door casings for inside corners. I knew I wanted to buy a table saw for a while and with the next week off from work I'd like to try and get as much house work done as possible. I've read that older belt drive Craftsman 113.xxxx saws might be worth restoring but I've skimmed craigslist around Houston and central Texas and haven't found any that looked promising. The Ridgid R4512 and R4510 seem to get good reviews for budget saws, with adequate fences. They appear to have semi decent dust collection with a shop vac, and are movable. My two car garage still needs to be able to park my car, motorcycle, standup trailer and miter which I have on a delta mobile stand. So, for now I need to be able to cut trim, I'm sure either saw will work, but I'd also like to get back into woodworking as a hobby. My first project I want to build is a walnut floating mantle-- so I need to be able to rip 45 deg cuts. Making a crosscut jig and some boxes also sounds fun. Back to my question, the revised R4513 jobsite saw sounds like it had several corners cut for one reason or another (e.g. square throat plates so no aftermarket choices for zero clearance and dados) and the price difference isn't too big for the 4512. However, I also just found a SawStop Contractor saw for $1100 locally. Twice the price, but the added safety seems very nice. (No idea what fence would come with the saw if any, but it appears to come with a mobile base.) With my main requirements being a decent fence to start with, mobility or somewhat compact storage to move it around and store in my garage, and allow some room for growth, do any of these make sense? I also found a Delta 5000 contractor saw locally for $500, but a lot of forum posts say parts, QC, etc. are deteriorating at Delta and should be avoided. I'm sure this subject has been beaten to death, but hopefully there are some points to help me with my cost benefit analysis.
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Dec 26, 2015 09:32
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If you can afford the SawStop, get the SawStop. Not only are they good for added safety, they also have the reputation of being very good quality saws overall. We can't get them in the UK easily D:
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Dec 26, 2015 10:24
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Designed a drawer carcass (is that the word?) for my workbench, this will fit under and between it's legs: Three top drawers and some more in the middle. On the sides I will just put some doors and shelves. Making them so they can pulled out from both ends as my workbench isn't against a wall. I am not sure if I should just make the three top drawers and make shelves and doors for the rest. I have a lot of drawers already and I need stuff with more vertical height to keep machines and bigger stuff in, I think. 2x4 construction mostly, and the two 1/2" plywood sheets in the middle is mainly what keeps the two frames together, dadoed and then glue and dowels. Also the runners will help a little. Not sure if it'll be too weak.
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Dec 26, 2015 13:42
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I would think you need some kind of front to back support.
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Dec 26, 2015 16:18
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Doctor Zero posted:I would think you need some kind of front to back support. He's got 2 full interior bulkheads supporting, he's fine.
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Dec 26, 2015 16:28
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MetaJew posted:I've done some reading on reddit and various other forums, but didn't realize this thread existed. The older Delta saws are the pickup truck of construction/contracting, idk what parts besides a motor would ever have to be replaced. I wouldn't have a Craftsman ever again, personally. Biesmeyer style fence a must, imo. edit- and I think the sawstops are severely over-rated. I've been doing this stuff since 1971, never had the need for one.
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Dec 26, 2015 16:39
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Mr. Mambold posted:edit- and I think the sawstops are severely over-rated. I've been doing this stuff since 1971, never had the need for one. Honestly what scares me most about table saws is the kickback potential, and your flesh doesn't have to go anywhere near the blade for that to happen.
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Dec 26, 2015 16:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Honestly what scares me most about table saws is the kickback potential, and your flesh doesn't have to go anywhere near the blade for that to happen. True. You develop a feel for blade binding resistance in most cases, so you can make an alternate decision or just power that puppy down. As long as you're not mindlessly ripping like a happy fool. Or a freak thing like the board splitting away from the rip.
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Dec 26, 2015 17:04
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MetaJew posted:With my main requirements being a decent fence to start with, mobility or somewhat compact storage to move it around and store in my garage, and allow some room for growth, do any of these make sense? I also found a Delta 5000 contractor saw locally for $500, but a lot of forum posts say parts, QC, etc. are deteriorating at Delta and should be avoided. I've been eyeing this one up for months now. 24.5" rip means you can slice a sheet of plywood right in half. Rack and pinon fence system that, according to youtube review folk stays very accurate after initial setup that's done with an allen key. People just buy a portable saw then make a not moving setup for it afterwards if required. I've been waiting till today to see if I can get a better deal before buying it on Amazon.
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Dec 26, 2015 18:10
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Made a disk sander attachment for the lathe today, with that I tried shaping some wood into a tape roll holder. I think it's cute, much nicer than those plasticky crappy things you get in stores: 
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Dec 26, 2015 21:26
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That's pretty. Are you going to put some kind of blade on it?
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Dec 26, 2015 21:35
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A piece of junior hacksaw blade will do the job just fine there
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Dec 26, 2015 21:36
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thespaceinvader posted:That's pretty. Are you going to put some kind of blade on it? Yeah I was just taking a torch to a little square I made from a utility knife blade. So I can file little teeth into it. A hacksaw blade would have been a good idea too but I don't have a sacrificial one lying around... or do I... gotta look through my junk drawers...
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Dec 26, 2015 21:44
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MetaJew posted:I've done some reading on reddit and various other forums, but didn't realize this thread existed. I got that Delta you've been talking about because it was the most I could afford. I'm very happy with it. I went with it because I had heard about alignment problems with some of the Ridgids (and the Craftsman which is a rebadged Ridgid).
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Dec 26, 2015 21:48
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Figured this might fit into this thread. I know nothing about woodworking or how to treat wood, and I'm pretty dumb about this kinda thing. I have a table that was basically black and tacky from what is apparently decades of oil and grime. I cleaned maybe 10% of it pretty thoroughly with some wood cleaner I got from Target and paper towels, and saw that the wood was actually pretty and called my parents to get the story on the table. I guess it's walnut and made by family friends, so it has some sentimental value and I don't want to gently caress it up by cleaning and treating it wrong. I'd appreciate some advice on how to properly treat this thing. It also has some water damage, I don't know if that factors into this at all. edit: I'd look up more online about it, but I don't know enough about wood n poo poo to tell what's good advice and what's bad advice. sugar free jazz fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Dec 27, 2015 |
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Dec 26, 2015 23:15
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If it's proper hosed up you're probably best off removing the original finish entirely and starting fresh. Scrape or sand off the original finish depending on available tools.
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Dec 27, 2015 00:18
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MetaJew posted:, but a lot of forum posts say parts, QC, etc. are deteriorating at Delta and should be avoided. Buy a Delta, PM, or Sawstop. I could write a wall of text explaining why but tomorrow someone will ask the same question. Delta isn't going anywhere, when PM and SS are memories, Delta will still be in business.
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Dec 27, 2015 01:15
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wormil posted:Buy a Delta, PM, or Sawstop. I could write a wall of text explaining why but tomorrow someone will ask the same question. Delta isn't going anywhere, when PM and SS are memories, Delta will still be in business. I got a vague response from the SawStop owner saying it's three years old and never been tripped. Of course he is on the opposite end of town (60+ miles), I'm not sure of it could be broken down to fit in a Mazda 3 hatch, I'm leaving town tomorrow and, and, and "someone else is interested in it". Basically, he didn't sound really motivated to sell. I stopped by three HDs today to try and see if any of them would bite at matching a 20% off Harbor Freight coupon, but the most I was offered was $50 off, or $517 for the R4512 after tax. I've got some store credit and Visa cash gift cards that make buying from HD a little more economical. Of the SawStop really is a good choice though I'll see of I can figure out how to pick it up.
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Dec 27, 2015 03:33
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Anyone want to help me with a down payment on this $780,000 woodworking bench? It comes with a house in Seattle.
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Dec 27, 2015 04:53
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MetaJew posted:I stopped by three HDs today to try and see if any of them would bite at matching a 20% off Harbor Freight coupon, but the most I was offered was $50 off, or $517 for the R4512 after tax. [note; apologies in advance because my reply is unnecessarily pissy but this gets discussed a lot (daily) in woodworking circles and the answers never change. People recommend whatever they own, if they are happy with it, because more people buying their saw reinforces their own decision making. I am no different. In the end the best consumer saws are made by Delta, Powermatic, and Sawstop. If you need a portable saw for the back of your truck then look at Bosch, Dewalt, or Makita. Anyway...] If you like gambling, buy the 4512; you might win a halfway decent saw with a halfway decent fence or years of regret. If it does have the alignment problem you can take it all back apart, pack it up (save those materials, take it back to the store and roll the dice again. But you will have saved $80 over the Delta. Worth it? Not to me. If you are really set against buying a Delta, because you believe the fake rumors they are going out of business despite being the most valuable brand name in woodworking and despite being owned by the largest woodworking machine/tool manufacturer in Asia, then buy the SS. It's a better-ish saw than the Lowes Delta but it's also 2X the cost (used).
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Dec 27, 2015 05:46
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Hey, I get it. The last time I got to use a decent table saw it was some 1970s cabinet saw in high school woodshop-- so I'm way out of the loop. I'm not set against the delta, I'm just trying to be cautious, so I don't regret a large purchase, like you said. This is in the same part of town as the SawStop, so pretty out of the way, but $150 cheaper than new with tax. Delta Table Saw - $500 http://houston.craigslist.org/tls/5367555205.html
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Dec 27, 2015 07:09
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Can you really recommend a new Delta these days? Almost overwhelmingly on woodworking forums I hear nowadays it's a buncha crap, also heard the stuff about them going out of business once, but I hear this almost everywhere and for a while now. If I were to recommend a brand (if looking at used saws) that's liable to be found in the US it would be a Wadkin. No support anymore, but if there ever was a quality saw brand, that's it. And in design it's more modern modern than it's US counterparts of the time, usually equipped with fully functional riving knives, something that took the US market until around 2010 to start embracing. Heavy cast iron lumps though, they will murder a mazda 3, cut it up and eat it for lunch.
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Dec 27, 2015 09:15
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MetaJew posted:Hey, I get it. The last time I got to use a decent table saw it was some 1970s cabinet saw in high school woodshop-- so I'm way out of the loop. I'm not set against the delta, I'm just trying to be cautious, so I don't regret a large purchase, like you said. I have that exact saw and I love it. I have nothing to compare it to, being my first table saw, but it is really easy to move around the workshop. It was perfectly aligned out of the box, and so far it feels very solid. The fence is solid. About the only niggling complaint I may have is that the fence rails come in two parts rather than one long one, but that's a function of having to fit in a box they can stack in a store. Take your time and assemble carefully and you'll be fine. Accessories are less easy to find although I have been fairly lucky getting inserts on Amazon. Should be easy enough to make your own as well (like zero clearance). You wouldn't be able to fit it in your Mazda without taking the whole thing apart though. Personally, if you get one I would buy it new. It's only $99 more and then you'd have the ability to return it if you absolutely hate it or get a defective one.
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Dec 27, 2015 11:31
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His Divine Shadow posted:Can you really recommend a new Delta these days? Almost overwhelmingly on woodworking forums I hear nowadays it's a buncha crap, also heard the stuff about them going out of business once, but I hear this almost everywhere and for a while now. 99% of the comments I've read about the new Delta's, by owners, have been positive. The majority of the negative stuff is by people who saw it in the store and don't like the design. Some claim that parts are plastic that aren't plastic. When it comes to Delta rumors, it's just like forwarded political emails, you either ignore them or think through/verify them. The Delta rumors were all, "the manager at my local woodworking store (and Powermatic dealer) told me ..." What would a store manager know about Delta? Nothing. They wouldn't know if their own company were going bankrupt let alone a different company. And all the rumors were worded alike, implying they came from a single source. Then not long after the rumors Powermatic was bought by a company that specializes in bankrupt companies. The dots are easy to connect. To top it it off, as I said yesterday, Delta is owned by one of the largest if not the largest manufacturer of woodworking machines and tools in Asia. And if you like rumors, it was hinted to me (or perhaps it just inferred) that Powermatic and Jet are made by Chang Type, the owners of Delta. I have not been able to verify that. The source ironically is a retired Powermatic salesman. What he said was that Chang Type makes many more brands than are listed on their website but they can't divulge them all because of contracts. I believe Delta will be in business for a long time to come. Sadly there is truth to the parts situation. Not sure what is going on there but it seems to mostly affect older models. Disclaimer, most of my machines are Delta and I'm an unapologetic fan boy. But if I were going to buy a saw under $1000 new it would definitely be a Delta.
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Dec 27, 2015 18:52
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I've been interested in woodworking for a couple years now and have threatened to get into it in the past. So, this Christmas, my wife bought me a set of four chisels and a book on woodworking. I figured, "now is as good a time as any," and I went on Amazon and bought a sharpening stone, dovetail template, marking gauge, coping saw and dovetail saw that I had on my wishlist for quite a while. I plan to keep things very small scale for the time being. I don't have a workshop or garage, and therefore do not plan on purchasing a bunch of power tools (also my dad has pretty much every tool under the sun and lives nearby). However, I figured I could do some small-scale projects to get the hang of things without ruining our home. A couple questions: Should I buy a quality (expensive) hand plane right off the bat? From what I've been reading, it's not something you really want to skimp on. I was planning on building stuff like small boxes with dovetail or mortise and tenon joints to get the hang of things. Is a workbench a necessity for this type of work, or can I make due with some clamps and a desk?
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Dec 27, 2015 19:05
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M.C. McMic posted:Should I buy a quality (expensive) hand plane right off the bat? From what I've been reading, it's not something you really want to skimp on. Check out Paul Sellers' youtube channel and consider getting his book. I think his new book is coming out soon too. There are more free videos on his online course site too, you just have to register for an account first. There's two ways to go with planes: buy a quality, new plane from Veritas and get to work fairly quickly (you'll probably still need to do a little sharpening and tuning) or save a little money and pick up a used Stanley off eBay (or craigslist, yard sales, etc). You'll have to do more clean up and tuning with an old plane but the benefit is that you learn more about how it works. Some people prefer to avoid any potential frustration early on with a new hobby, others prefer to save money and tinker. You can get by with clamps and a desk to some extent but it will get frustrating after a while. A proper workbench (or even the kit from Harbor Freight) with a good vise makes everything so much easier.
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Dec 27, 2015 19:57
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Check out Paul Sellers' youtube channel and consider getting his book. I think his new book is coming out soon too. There are more free videos on his online course site too, you just have to register for an account first. Thanks for the advice. Which Harbor Freight kit are you referring to? Also, I was already kind of checking out the Veritas smoothing planes. Looking specifically at the Bevel Up Smoother Plane. It seems pretty versatile and allows you to adjust angles pretty easily.
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Dec 27, 2015 20:58
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