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Safety Dance posted:It'll be okay for, e.g., assembling IKEA furniture (which I love impacts for), but it doesn't have the guts to do anything more than trim work on a car. It claims 700 in-lbs, which comes out to 58 ft-lbs. In my experience, that seems like an optimistic rating. QuarkMartial posted:Boo. I tossed it on there mainly for something cheap to take off lugnuts with. http://www.amazon.com/HAMMERHEAD_HDIW075_7-5-AMP-2-inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00OZHIN0S <-- This is the wall-powered 1/2" impact mentioned earlier in the thread, it does 240 ft-lbs and should be fine for zapping lugs. http://www.amazon.com/HAMMERHEAD-12-Volt-Cordless-Impact-Driver/dp/B00GN0H8TC <-- this is the first result you get in a google search for "hammerhead electric impact" which afaik wasn't the one mentioned earlier in the thread, and is the 700 in-lbs model  So presuming you got the wall powered one, QuarkMartial, you should be fine
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Dec 27, 2015 21:56
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literally a fish posted:http://www.amazon.com/HAMMERHEAD_HDIW075_7-5-AMP-2-inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00OZHIN0S <-- This is the wall-powered 1/2" impact mentioned earlier in the thread, it does 240 ft-lbs and should be fine for zapping lugs. The first one looks like a repainted version of the Kawasaki wall-powered impact driver I have in my garage, and if it is as strong, it will take off lugnuts just fine; also, flywheel bolts, crankshaft pulley bolts including Honda, and your wrists when you gently caress up.
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Dec 27, 2015 22:27
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Haha... Great! I got the wall powered one. 
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Dec 27, 2015 22:28
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My M12 impact driver is fine for lugnuts after you crack them with a breaker bar. It also forces me to use another tool for final torque on reinstall so it's easier to reach for the torque wrench instead of just saying "gently caress it BAAAAP".
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Dec 28, 2015 01:30
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QuarkMartial posted:Haha... Great! I got the wall powered one. Oh, yeah, my b. I didn't care to search the thread and just googled. The wall-powered one looks solid.
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Dec 28, 2015 01:54
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Splizwarf posted:My M12 impact driver is fine for lugnuts after you crack them with a breaker bar. It also forces me to use another tool for final torque on reinstall so it's easier to reach for the torque wrench instead of just saying "gently caress it BAAAAP". Ive got the M18 Impact driver and M18 Impact gun and theyre beasts of things- M18 will rip off U bolt nuts like they arent there but because its got a progressive trigger you can use it to put lugs back on- i find that I can get it down to a single bap or two, which is 2/3 the way to the torque my wheels need.
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Dec 28, 2015 13:50
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The M12 I got for christmas isn't an impact driver cuz the knob at the Home Depot told my girlfriend (who bought it for me) that I wouldn't need an impact driver. That guy was wrong, right?
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Dec 28, 2015 16:28
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If you ended up with the M12 hex screwdriver, then yeah you really probably needed the impact. The regular hex drivers are useful occasionally, but an impact will do all the same things for the most part.
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Dec 28, 2015 17:01
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Yeah a drill and an impact driver are the two cordless spinning tools I use the most. Drill is good for making holes, impact driver is good for driving things into those holes. Impact in particular is useful for driving things into hard material.
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Dec 28, 2015 18:25
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I have been wondering if it would be worth adding an impact driver to my tool bin, seems like they have gained a ton of popularity lately. I also want to add an impact wrench as well, that would be great for the yards, but hard to justify a tool when I have air powered poo poo and don't go to the yard that often (though having a cordless impact driver would be a good excuse to go)
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Dec 28, 2015 18:36
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Remind me where we ended up on the whole 'will a cordless impact driver be any good for removing wheel nuts?'
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Dec 28, 2015 18:49
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spog posted:Remind me where we ended up on the whole 'will a cordless impact driver be any good for removing wheel nuts?' 1/2" drive = probably. 1/4" or 3/8" = probably not.
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Dec 28, 2015 18:52
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spog posted:Remind me where we ended up on the whole 'will a cordless impact driver be any good for removing wheel nuts?' Sure, a good 1/2" should be fine. They use them all the time if you watch WRC. Just make sure you understand that most lugs on passenger vehicles are between 80-120 ft/lbs and buy accordingly. A friend has one of these old rear end DeWalts and it works fine. There are plenty of better options these days.
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Dec 28, 2015 18:56
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spog posted:Remind me where we ended up on the whole 'will a cordless impact wrench be any good for removing wheel nuts?' Safety Dance posted:1/2" drive = probably. 1/4" or 3/8" = probably not. This. An impact driver probably won't, no. I don't recall seeing any with the torque to get most off a car. Unless you loosen it with a breaker, then sure!
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Dec 28, 2015 18:57
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I have the compact M18 Fuel 3/8" impact wrench and it's great for lug nuts and whatnot. I started with the giant 700 ft/lb one but decided it was too big and way more than I needed.
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Dec 28, 2015 19:03
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Splizwarf posted:Is there a DeWalt version of the various tool-battery-powered heated hoodie/jacket? The Milwaukee m12 heated hoodie is fantastic. powderific posted:I have the compact M18 Fuel 3/8" impact wrench and it's great for lug nuts and whatnot. I started with the giant 700 ft/lb one but decided it was too big and way more than I needed. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 01:09
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I have wanted an M12 hoody ever since the Milwaukee rep showed them off to my work and comped 2 of them to our tool room guys. Now that I'm the tool room guy I never see the dang rep.
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Dec 29, 2015 02:52
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Ferremit posted:Ive got the M18 Impact driver and M18 Impact gun and theyre beasts of things- M18 will rip off U bolt nuts like they arent there but because its got a progressive trigger you can use it to put lugs back on- i find that I can get it down to a single bap or two, which is 2/3 the way to the torque my wheels need. That's what I love about my makita impact wrench, not only is it incredibly tiny and easy to get into small spaces, it's got several speed settings, which effectively and accurately limits torque. Plus, you know, not having to charge up the compressor and gently caress around with air lines and whatnot makes everything ten times easier. I've yet to run into anything it can't handle either (used it for up to 36mm rustbelt axle nuts)
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Dec 29, 2015 05:24
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What would you guys expect the torque limit for 3/8" drive 12 point deep sockets (non-impact) to be? I've had to use one to bolt on the head on my 4.0 twice, with a final torque rating of 110 ft-lbs, just wondering how close I've come to possibly breaking that poor socket.
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Dec 29, 2015 07:48
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EightBit posted:What would you guys expect the torque limit for 3/8" drive 12 point deep sockets (non-impact) to be? I've had to use one to bolt on the head on my 4.0 twice, with a final torque rating of 110 ft-lbs, just wondering how close I've come to possibly breaking that poor socket.
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Dec 29, 2015 09:55
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I'm kind of hoping we'll see some discounts on M18 Fuel stuff once the "One-Key" versions start rolling out in 2016. I think I could manage without Bluetooth-enabled, cloud-connected power tools if it means a few bucks off.
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Dec 29, 2015 14:28
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My Ingersoll Rand electric impact started acting weird. Normally when you let go of the trigger - it snaps to a stop immediately. Now it just free spins to a stop. It still works fine and has the same power, it's just a little upsetting to loose that feature - it slows me down. I took it apart according to the instructions in the owners manual to lubricate it. The front of the hammer case comes off with four torx bolts. Inside, I cleaned it all out, and re-lubed everything. There's the anvil, an impact spring section, and a planetary gearset. After re-assembley - everything is quieter and smooth, but I still don't have the brake anymore. I'm starting to think that it might be electrical in nature. I bought this thing used like two years ago, so warranty is not an option. Any ideas?
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Dec 29, 2015 15:25
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EightBit posted:What would you guys expect the torque limit for 3/8" drive 12 point deep sockets (non-impact) to be? I've had to use one to bolt on the head on my 4.0 twice, with a final torque rating of 110 ft-lbs, just wondering how close I've come to possibly breaking that poor socket. Frankly it's drat near impossible to know. You'll probably bust it from fatigue eventually but who knows. All depends on the quality of the metal, the corner radii, thickness of the metal, and luck. Fatigue is a bitch to predict. You're best bet would be if the manufacturer has an torque but I would doubt they do and since it's not an impact socket it won't be rated for impact torque.
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Dec 29, 2015 15:43
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0toShifty posted:My Ingersoll Rand electric impact started acting weird. Normally when you let go of the trigger - it snaps to a stop immediately. Now it just free spins to a stop. It still works fine and has the same power, it's just a little upsetting to loose that feature - it slows me down. In all honesty if your using it every day, 2 years is about average for impacts to last. You can see if IR will rebuild it for you. Snap On is rebuilding my 1/2" 18v right now for 100 bucks but i bet they say gently caress it and give me a knew one like they did with my 3/8" 9 volt. Not a bad deal considering the motherfucker cost drat near 800 with 2 batteries
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Dec 29, 2015 16:11
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0toShifty posted:My Ingersoll Rand electric impact started acting weird. Normally when you let go of the trigger - it snaps to a stop immediately. Now it just free spins to a stop. It still works fine and has the same power, it's just a little upsetting to loose that feature - it slows me down. Back when I was on the robotics team in high school, we got some drill motors from Bosch that had pins in the gearboxes that would prevent them from freewheeling. If you wanted the motors to freewheel, you had to disassemble the gearboxes and remove the pins. If you didn't and you used the Bosch drill motors to drive your robot, it would probably fail catastrophically. Anyway, your IR impact probably had the same thing, and it probably went missing or sheared. See if they'll rebuild it.
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Dec 29, 2015 16:19
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Like everyone else said, you'll probably shear off the 3/8 drive peg on your extensions and adapters before you wreck a socket, unless you do something silly like use an impact wrench on a non impact socket* or really lovely sockets. * not that I have ever done anything like that, nope 
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Dec 29, 2015 17:56
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Yeah, I've sheared off two 3/8th drive heads, it was the same 12 point socket each time and it's still fine. Yes, I sheared them off on the same bolt, one after the other. I am not very smart. One of the many reasons I use hex drive sockets now, now it's 50/50 whether the drive end or fastener end will break first. The unpredictability makes it more exciting! 0toShifty posted:My Ingersoll Rand electric impact started acting weird. Normally when you let go of the trigger - it snaps to a stop immediately. Now it just free spins to a stop. It still works fine and has the same power, it's just a little upsetting to loose that feature - it slows me down. If you can't find a mechanical brake like described above it probably brakes by shorting out the motor for a second or so. The short might occur mechanically in the trigger switch, if so taking that apart and cleaning it might help. It could also just use a transistor that might be burnt out, you can probably find a replacement at digikey or wherever. Maybe it's just a cracked solder joint.
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Dec 30, 2015 03:00
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Preoptopus posted:Snap On is rebuilding my 1/2" 18v right now for 100 bucks but i bet they say gently caress it and give me a knew one like they did with my 3/8" 9 volt. Did they give you one to use while your old one is being rebuilt?
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Dec 30, 2015 03:44
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kastein posted:Like everyone else said, you'll probably shear off the 3/8 drive peg on your extensions and adapters before you wreck a socket, unless you do something silly like use an impact wrench on a non impact socket* or really lovely sockets. Grey Pneumatic superiority! Finally got the 3/8ths set of their duo sockets. Now I just need the 1/2" deep well metric and regular/deep well standards. Then I need all of the sets in 12pt too! 
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Dec 30, 2015 04:22
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Extra posted:Did they give you one to use while your old one is being rebuilt? Had I bought it new from him he would have but I bought it used off a coworker so I didnt bring it up. I can deal with air hoses for a while.
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Dec 30, 2015 04:26
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Is the grey pneumatic a line at harbor freight or something else entirely? Going to be shopping for impact sockets soon. E: granted they're probably the same quality as Advance's sockets and I can get them cheapish.
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Dec 30, 2015 06:19
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fknlo posted:Grey Pneumatic superiority! Do you like the duo sockets enough to have only them in the box, or are you keeping around chrome sockets? I love the idea of having one big set for everything.
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Dec 30, 2015 16:25
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Hypnolobster posted:Do you like the duo sockets enough to have only them in the box, or are you keeping around chrome sockets? I love the idea of having one big set for everything. I haven't used them a whole lot(joys of a newer car), but for general use purposes I think they'd be more than enough. My first big project using them will be an upcoming shock/strut replacement. I still have one of these sets that I picked up 10 or so years ago as backup.
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Dec 30, 2015 17:53
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I've put off doing my serpentine and accessory belts for long enough and now I've got three vehicles that are past due for tensioning/replacements. Does anyone make a set of extra long ratcheting box wrenches for this express purpose? Eg, the only thing I could find were these Kastar wrenches, but I've never heard of Kastar and quite frankly am not sure if they're worth the price premium over the older style tool which I can get for twenty bucks at the moment. I'd like to get a whole universal set, since my cars run the gamut from metric to sae. E: Something like this set would be perfect if they were longer Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Dec 31, 2015 |
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Dec 31, 2015 16:24
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I have this Gearwrench serpentine belt tool and it works great but it's metric-only.
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Dec 31, 2015 19:38
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zundfolge posted:I have this Gearwrench serpentine belt tool and it works great but it's metric-only. That seems like one of those tools that is missing every time you need it, and only shows up when you're looking for an unrelated tool.
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Jan 1, 2016 00:00
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zundfolge posted:I have this Gearwrench serpentine belt tool and it works great but it's metric-only. This is the best tool for belts ever. And they sell it with SAE and metric sizes. Worth any price.
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Jan 1, 2016 00:05
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Powershift posted:That seems like one of those tools that is missing every time you need it, and only shows up when you're looking for an unrelated tool. I call it That One Lego Piece phenomenon. "God dammit, I just saw it! Where'd it go?"
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Jan 1, 2016 00:42
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Why are there specific serpentine tools? Is this some fwd car problem? I've always been able to use a socket and ratchet.
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Jan 1, 2016 16:29
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I have a separate bag for all those specialized one-off tools. Stuff like a stethoscope, spark plug wire pullers, etc. Makes it a lot easy than digging through all the wrenches and sockets to find something specialized. edit: ^ I'm betting it helps you loosen and tighten the belt without having to pull out cooling fans, radiator, etc. in tight spaces.
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Jan 1, 2016 16:30
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