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Went to Cars and Coffee Saturday. While I was there, my machinist buddy sent me some photos of a project we're working on.    Prior to C+C, I cleaned up my car. It had been sitting, with a terrible water leak. Ugh. Fixed the leak. As it turns out I'm an idiot and drilled speed holes on the wrong side of the hatch gasket.  New wheel installed.  Got a used 99 rebar and installed the fog lights.  Also ordered some used scuff/sill plates from a JDM car. Not sure I'm going to use them. Oh and a used padded arm rest for the center console.  Now I just need to track down the fog light switch and relay.  And it's ready for winter. No garage/shop space  . Tried some new booze.  Sunday I got the Silver FD back together, mostly.  Can you say hack job?      Sadly, I have to take it apart tonight. I took a 50/50 risk with a set of injectors and one ended up be bad. Thankfully it's a secondary and easy to get to.
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Nov 24, 2015 00:28
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I've been sick the last week with a terrible cold, but here's what's been happening. The Silver 94 got it's injector replaced. It did not solve the problem...   But a new ECU did!  I could find no visible damage. Oh well, stock ECU's are cheap.  God drat it. I have NO idea where this much coolant came from. I checked every hose and it has been fine since.   The bad news is, it still runs like crap. Well, it idles like crap and the control system is somewhat freaking out. I've got it back in the shop to look it over again. I'm guessing a bad solenoid, which means another tear down... Great.  Picked up this awesome little heater. Highly recommended.  I was asked by my father to repair this stove. Not having used silicon bronze before, I decided to practice. Neat stuff.  We started a fire to season the new cast iron backing.  And here's what made me sick. Welding on a open stove in 30 degree weather. Ugh. Well, that and re-wiring our tow dolly after dark. It was a looming Saturday.  White 94 update: gently caress broken studs. Decided to try the TIG a nut onto a broken stud trick.   It took 3 tries, but it worked.  I treated myself to a set of Ohlin PCV's. These are used, but don't show a mark on them. I'm looking forward to trying them, they have always come highly recommended.   Red 93 R1 update: It's GONE! My friend has been coming over the past few weekends and slowly reassembling the car. I have to say, despite the primer this thing looks great. It has a sticky idle, but that's nothing a bit of cleaning/lubricating won't fix. He's going to get the windshield replaced today.    We had to duck tape the window in for transport...  It runs, it drives. Once it has new tires and a paint job, it should be a great little car.    The FD next to his bosses new M4. It's a beautiful car.  The Corvair can now live inside and I've got one less project to worry about. I ordered a sample batch of hardware from belmetric.com. I'm impressed, but considering just the nickel plated hardware in this bin cost $136... I'll be saving it for special cases.  the spyder fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Dec 7, 2015 |
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Dec 7, 2015 08:02
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Someone's been a busy bee!
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Dec 7, 2015 08:30
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I'm jealous of that bolt bin.
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Dec 7, 2015 15:42
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Nice coilovers.
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Dec 7, 2015 16:25
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Post updated with WORDS.
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Dec 7, 2015 19:16
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Pictures of the FD near an F82 M4 are a reminder of how much larger cars are today. The FD appears to be 2/3rd the size. I was actually considering an F80 but they're not too far off in size from the E60 5-series in many ways. No thanks.
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Dec 7, 2015 21:24
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Zoom Zoom, motherfuckers
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It's remarkable how much bigger BMWs grew after the E60 and E90. I have a friend with a 335i and when I park my E46 next to it, they are very close in size, but the new cars are just massive. Also the RX-7 has always been a tiny car.
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Dec 7, 2015 23:21
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My brother's 135i is bigger than the 3-series from the mid '90s.
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Dec 8, 2015 00:44
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I feel dumb asking this, but what in the heck are the black tubular things?
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Dec 8, 2015 07:28
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Mat_Drinks posted:I feel dumb asking this, but what in the heck are the black tubular things? Butt plugs.
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Dec 8, 2015 07:29
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Mat_Drinks posted:I feel dumb asking this, but what in the heck are the black tubular things? Vacuum caps from MCMaster Carr.
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Dec 8, 2015 07:38
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Rhyno posted:Cloud plugs.
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Dec 8, 2015 07:38
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Wrar posted:It's remarkable how much bigger BMWs grew after the E60 and E90. I have a friend with a 335i and when I park my E46 next to it, they are very close in size, but the new cars are just massive. This is true of every make, really. Even my 2006 "compact" is dwarfed by current compact cars, and for 2006-07, it was considered one of the largest compact cars sold in the US (at least the sedan version was - my coupe's back seat only exists to classify it as a 4 passenger car). My 1988 Accord was considered to be on the bigger end of the compact car spectrum at the time, and it would look like a toy if I parked it next to, say, a Chevy Cruze or a (new) Ford Focus. A 1990-93 Accord was considered a midsize car - the first generation Cruze sold in the US (2008 model year) is actually longer from bumper to bumper, weighs significantly more, and it's considered to be a compact car. It's big when you park it next to a Cobalt (which it replaced in the GM lineup), and the Cobalt is huge compared to a Cavalier (again... Cobalt replaced the Cavalier). I'd put my old 88 Accord's size pretty close to the last of the J bodies. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Dec 8, 2015 |
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Dec 8, 2015 07:51
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Most ECUs like that from the 90s will have degraded electrolytic capacitors by now. Changing them all out is cheap and may bring the ECU back to working condition. If any electrolyte has leaked, this is a good time to scrub it off and repair any burnt traces.
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Dec 8, 2015 12:44
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My wife and I bought the smaller version of your big buddy heater for heating our tent at the art festival we do in Austin. It's a great little heater. I can highly recommend my 'portable buddy' I call it mister buddy. I thought the E46 was closer in size to the 1 series, not the E92
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Dec 8, 2015 15:24
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Most ECUs like that from the 90s will have degraded electrolytic capacitors by now. Changing them all out is cheap and may bring the ECU back to working condition. If any electrolyte has leaked, this is a good time to scrub it off and repair any burnt traces. It's something with the injector drivers. I checked all the caps, resistors, and traces. Visually it's perfect. If I had a spare harness plug, I'd wire up 12v and check it with a temp gun for hot spots.
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Dec 9, 2015 06:19
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Saw this, thought of your thread
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Dec 17, 2015 02:32
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jamal posted:Saw this, thought of your thread Finally my rust problems are over!
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Dec 17, 2015 02:34
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Looks like someone bought the mold from Keisel
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Dec 17, 2015 03:48
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jamal posted:Saw this, thought of your thread I hope this is going on an SCCA GT1 20B car <3 Or something tube frame. Definitely tubeframe
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Dec 17, 2015 20:16
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Holiday update: 93 SSM  I'm beginning to hate this car. It developed a new "security feature", it no longer wanted to start unless you floored it once. It wasn't acting flooded and was consistent regardless of operating temp. There were no codes or leaks I could find. I brought it back into the shop and started checking it over. Fuel and spark were good.  I thought maybe I grabbed a can of bad gas when I topped it off last, so I drained the tank. Good thing I did... it was full of aluminum shavings from the previous shops fuel rail fuckery.  So I kept testing and found a bad air bleed valve. It was locked solid.  Here's the valve.  With a replacement installed, it still idled rough, but was solid overall. I worked on other projects until it bugged me enough to bring it back in, so today I pulled it back into the shop. I decided to temporarily install a PowerFC to pull sensor voltages. Bingo. The high range of the TPS was way outta spec- 95ohms vs the factory rated 4.85ohms.  The TPS is a complete pain to pull.  This kit really, really helps.  New vs old.  Fine-A-loving-leeee. It runs great.  Cats for your viewing pleasure.  I've got $550 in parts and $2.6k of labor in this darn thing, not including the $1700 in parts they already purchased. This was a hell of a project. The owners are picking it up tomorrow. Thank glob. the spyder fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 07:23
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Now that the silver car is done- I can start on the backlog. First up is this 93 MB, the car that tried to kill me a few pages back. It decided to start shutting the ECU off after 30 minutes. So I found a number of things. First up was some wiring hackery. Next was a completely crispy harness. Add in some not-for-fuel-injection hose and random cracked belt tensioners, and you have a party.         Thankfully the owners springing for a RyWire harness.    I'll update this as the project progresses. the spyder fucked around with this message at 07:36 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 07:28
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the spyder posted:This kit really, really helps. I've got something like that but it's a straight hex bit ratchet. No need for adaptors to use any hex, torx, philips etc unless you want a hex - 1/4" socket adaptor. Just chiming in to let aussie goons know it's a cheap set available at supercheap (or was 4 years ago). Look for ratcheting bit driver, or hex bit ratchet. I needed it in HVAC because idiot installers would fit outdoor a/c units too close to walls so it was impossible to undo case screws to get the lid off. Annoying, but the worst was when the outdoor units were too close to the eaves. The little ratchet set was about $15. The hoist I needed to remove the goddamn outdoor unit from the wall from the 1st floor eave on a two storey house and bring it down to ground level just so I could stick my head over the top and look inside was about $2600. I regret not choosing a career that was based on ground level. I can identify with PO fuckery though, as every customer/installer was a "PO" that hosed everything up because thought put towards future service and repair was 0. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 10:41 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 10:37
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This set? http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Bit-Ratchet-Set-19-Piece.aspx?pid=222418#Recommendations Looks handy, hopefully I can find one at the local store.
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Dec 29, 2015 12:05
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Fo3 posted:The hoist I needed to remove the goddamn outdoor unit from the wall from the 1st floor eave on a two storey house and bring it down  Please tell me this was a mini split system, and not a whole-house system. Because I can't imagine what the gently caress was going through someone's head if they decided to do that with a whole-house unit.
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Dec 29, 2015 12:10
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Ephphatha posted:This set? http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Bit-Ratchet-Set-19-Piece.aspx?pid=222418#Recommendations The ratchet on that set looks to be fairly coarse. See if you can find one with a higher tooth count, it will be a huge help in confined spaces you will most likely use it in. It has stood up to daily use at work for the last two years. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/tools...content=Default Buy some ACR Philips bits and you should be able to remove drat near anything. If you want to super fancy, SnapOn sells 72 tooth hex ratchets for ~$18. I bought a set of super short 1/4 hex bits where useful part of the bit is the only part that sticks out. With that combination, you can fit into a space about 9/16" wide.
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Dec 29, 2015 12:50
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Fo3 posted:I've got something like that but it's a straight hex bit ratchet. No need for adaptors to use any hex, torx, philips etc unless you want a hex - 1/4" socket adaptor. That set is straight hex too. The extension with the green sleeve is just an extension. We have had that Wera set at work for almost a year now, it's been AWESOME for all the fiddly little fasteners we use for our optical and UHV hardware.
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Dec 29, 2015 14:09
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Ephphatha posted:This set? http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Bit-Ratchet-Set-19-Piece.aspx?pid=222418#Recommendations Yeah, that's the one I have. I like it due to the bright marking* and finger grips on the bits. *The anodizing seems to last as well Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 15:25
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Like mentioned above, the bit driver has a extension installed in that picture. It's the only one I've found that actually retains standard hex bits. I keep this kit in my car: http://chadstoolbox.com/05073220002-wera-tool-check-1-with-bit-assortment-and-bitratchet-metric/ In other news, gently caress the 93 SSM. I walked out to it this morning and smelled gas. The gas tank drain bolt was dripping. Ugh. I just drained the gas, let's hope I can seal it before the owners show up in three hours.
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Dec 29, 2015 23:07
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Something must have kicked me in the rear end because I've been knocking poo poo out all week. The 93 SSM is GONE. I drained the tank and sealed it 2 hours before they picked it up. Ended up giving them a discount (because I can) and I can't wait to see some miles put on the car.     Next up was the 93 MB that was randomly shutting off/loosing power to the ECU. The new harness needed some minor modifications. I had to switch the secondary injector plugs over from the old harness, along with the rubber isolators.     After all that work, I fired the car up. It ran for ~15 minutes and I though all was well... until it shut off again.   I started checking over some of the owners work and found the map sensor wires mis-crimped and missing the water seals. If you wiggled the map sensor, it tripped miscellaneous relays.     And it still did not fix the problem. I started looking over the under dash wiring again, not trusting the plethora of vampire taps on the ignition.  Again, that bit ratchet is awesome.   Found it. Both myself and the owner missed this. It wasn't until I pulled the harness down I could see the top that had melted and only had 2-3 strands left. No idea who/how this happened.  I went ahead and cut/crimped all the damaged wires.  And it's fixed! For now... the owner still has work to do before I will tune it. The alignment is way off and scary even under 60mph. He picked it up this afternoon with a checklist before it comes back. (Hopefully not on a flat bed again!)  With that done, we pulled a new project into the shop! It's a 93 Touring that I worked on for Rob@Pineapple just under two years ago. The owner HATED the clutch he had installed and never drove it. It's been sitting with a new engine, not even broken in! After moving it around the drive way, I can't blame him. It felt like crap for a mostly stock car. I bought a super lightly used (driven ~350 miles) stock Exedy clutch for him.   While doing a checkover I noticed the brake fluid was super low. Then I found this... I'll take a better picture tomorrow, but it's the ABS pump leaking... Which is like $700. Ugh.  The clutch job went super smooth. 2.5 hours start/finish.   New* stock clutch.  And here's the problem. Rob tossed a solid 6 puck clutch in it. No wonder it felt like a tractor.  We got it all bolted back together and I'll toss fluid in it tomorrow. There's some other issues I will have to address tomorrow (drivability/abs), but it should be outta here as soon as he can schedule a ride to pick it up. Next up is either the White 94, Black 93 Auto, or MB 94. I'm hoping to have all these cars gone by the end of January. the spyder fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Jan 1, 2016 |
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Jan 1, 2016 06:13
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You're some sort of rotary wizard.
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Jan 1, 2016 21:27
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More like insane mechanic.
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Jan 2, 2016 05:30
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Spent most of today doing projects with my dad, but I still managed to slip a few hours of work in on the red FD. Here's the leaking ABS pump. The car has sat for a long time and this is pretty normal sadly.   I decided to flush the brake fluid just in case the swelling agents in the new fluid seals up the leaks.  With that done, I took a look at the idle. This car has a PowerFC and a quick glance of the commander told me the TPS was out of spec. Upon inspection I found another dead TPS- this one failed internally some how.  No pics of the replacement. Here's the correct readings.  Next up were the springs- the owner purchased a Eibach pro kit and asked me to install them.  I also installed 99-spec tail lights and a lip (not pictured).   The idle is getting better. I had to reset the power-fc and it does not like doing the idle learn in 27f weather. I'll work on it some more tomorrow.  After the test drive, I gave it a look over... and found a leaking master cyl. drat it.  But it's windy and biter cold out, so I called it a night.
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Jan 2, 2016 05:38
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the spyder posted:More like insane mechanic. Yeah, pretty insane to deal with complicated emissions and wiring systems. And I mean that in a good way, all my 1970s rotors had a battery so I could have headlights and tail-lights, spark and dashlights, that's about it. Not like rotors after the 1980s with vacuum lines, various emission controls etc. Though mine did have the odd mits electric mystery box which I still don't know what they did. Out of any emmisions and wiring I need to face, I'm the least comfortable with 1980s+ mazda, more at home with aussie ford or GM these days as the world has passed complicated house developed OEM stuff into general obd systems. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Jan 2, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 11:52
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Fo3 posted:Yeah, pretty insane to deal with complicated emissions and wiring systems. And I mean that in a good way, all my 1970s rotors had a battery so I could have headlights and tail-lights, spark and dashlights, that's about it. I kid you not, I know almost nothing about pre-85 Rotary control systems/fueling. I have a great mentor if I ever want to learn them, but I've worked on the 86-95 models for a decade now and it's just engrained into me.
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Jan 2, 2016 22:16
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If you ever need a manual for pre 85 rotaries, check out foxed.ca http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual Also ausrotary tech pages. foxed.ca also has manuals for your vintage rx7s too. The stuff on the older rotaries may even be of use to people learning carbs (for any type of engine) Fo3 fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 09:53
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the spyder posted:I kid you not, I know almost nothing about pre-85 Rotary control systems/fueling. I know them all too well. That's why I'm switching my 7 to EFI.
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Jan 3, 2016 10:19
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I just pulled these out of storage since moving house a month ago. You tell me what looks cooler. 13b EFI TB, or dual weber 40IDFs?  Just kidding. I was a early adopter of all sorts of rotary stuff decades ago, hence the twin IDFs; But I also jumped onto haltech EFI early on too with their basic fuel only F7 EFI system (and also of course had cars with the stock nikki or hitachi, and the tried and tested single 48IDA weber) Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:19 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 12:14
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Put a stock ECU in the Red 93 Touring and it runs great*! (As great as a ported 13B-REW can on a stock ECU.)  Happy snow day.
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Jan 4, 2016 06:43
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