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Are you planning on posting the files for that anywhere?
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Dec 26, 2015 12:19
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Are you planning on posting the files for that anywhere? insta posted:Whenever I have funky mounts like that, I just order the part from Shapeways. It's like $20-30 and just gets the job done perfectly and forever. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Dec 26, 2015 |
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Dec 26, 2015 15:37
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TwystNeko posted:ColorPrint info: http://prusaprinters.org/colorprint-is-out/ I ended up having quite a bit of fun with colorprint:  I think I've made a couple hundred snowflakes with my printer over the past month. Still working fantastic for ~$250 but I probably should have built a Prusa i3 from individually sourced parts as I'm going through different upgrades (now printing different extruder config & bought Mk3 heated bed) to continue to increase print quality. Christmas gift-giving treated me well: I now have 10 rolls of filament and a sampler pack to run through!
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Dec 26, 2015 17:43
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Combat Pretzel posted:Behold! My drop-in holder for sticking the E3D V6 into the Makerbot2 / Flashforge Creator Pro clone from CTC. That is awesome dude. How's it work? Painted a 3D printed Catan set for xmas gift:   
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Dec 27, 2015 06:28
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Mofabio posted:That is awesome dude. How's it work? *tim and Eric mind blown gif* That's really friggin cool, great job.
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Dec 27, 2015 06:48
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Is there a standard plan as far as mounting hardware when putting an e3d v6 on a rostock max v2? That was the one part of my plan I apparently didn't account for, that the e3d and the stock hot end mount differently enough that I need some other solution, apparently. Am I going to have to go through the messy process of prepping/installing the stock hot end just so I can print a part so I can install the e3d?  Otherwise, wooooooo 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Dec 27, 2015 |
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Dec 27, 2015 07:00
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Bad Munki posted:Is there a standard plan as far as mounting hardware when putting an e3d v6 on a rostock max v2? That was the one part of my plan I apparently didn't account for, that the e3d and the stock hot end mount differently enough that I need some other solution, apparently. Am I going to have to go through the messy process of prepping/installing the stock hot end just so I can print a part so I can install the e3d? Looks like you may have the same problem I did where you can't screw the PTFE tube coupler into the hotend because it doesn't have threading. I have a Prusa so I could print a flat mount that fit onto the existing hotend carriage, which I screwed the tube coupler into. Maybe if you post a close up of the part that holds the hotend there's a place you could mount a similar part? bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Dec 27, 2015 |
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Dec 27, 2015 07:09
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The bowden tube clamp screws into the stock heatsink with a brass holder on mine? Yeah, I installed the stock hotend then printed an E3D v6 specific one. Well, printed one then used it for a few months before I realized it was crap then printed a different, better one. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:779135
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Dec 27, 2015 07:14
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Bad Munki posted:Is there a standard plan as far as mounting hardware when putting an e3d v6 on a rostock max v2? That was the one part of my plan I apparently didn't account for, that the e3d and the stock hot end mount differently enough that I need some other solution, apparently. Am I going to have to go through the messy process of prepping/installing the stock hot end just so I can print a part so I can install the e3d? As some who is mad keen on getting a Rostock in the next few months can you given us some feed back on how well it prints and the ease of use you have with it?
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Dec 27, 2015 10:14
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Those carriages on the rostock look different than mine. Are they aftermarket?
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Dec 27, 2015 10:25
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They're the stock carriages as of October, I think it is. And I'll definitely post pics and results once it's actually printing. 
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Dec 27, 2015 15:01
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Mofabio posted:That is awesome dude. How's it work?
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Dec 27, 2015 15:22
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Michymech posted:As some who is mad keen on getting a Rostock in the next few months can you given us some feed back on how well it prints and the ease of use you have with it? I have a max, but I went straight for an E3Dlite on the install. The calibration process was needlessly complicated (why is the firmware so far off on DIAGONAL_ROD_LENGTH? Everything is injection molded!), but I got it working well. I couldn't get a perfectly level first layer, so I took it halfway apart and put an inductive probe on, then ran an auto calibration script. Now nothing works and its sitting in the corner in time out. My advice: build it stock, leave it the gently caress alone, use a fat first layer.
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Dec 27, 2015 20:59
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There is a new calibration script that goes along with the injection molded carriages and ball-cup arms, but it can be used with the older style, too. It's way better than the one they used for years and I used last year, and doesn't require mattercontrol. I remember having to set my arm length to 269 or something like that (acetate bearing arms), and then gently caress a lot with "horizontal radius" or whatever that variable is called that "bows" the bed up and down in the middle.
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Dec 27, 2015 22:07
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Michymech posted:As some who is mad keen on getting a Rostock in the next few months can you given us some feed back on how well it prints and the ease of use you have with it? I'm very happy with mine. Stock except Astrosyns dampers on the stepper motors.
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Dec 28, 2015 01:39
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I'm very happy with mine. Stock except Astrosyns dampers on the stepper motors. Whats the largest print that you have done on it and got any photos of finished prints you can show off, also how much of a difference does the Astrosyns dampers make?
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Dec 28, 2015 01:50
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It is loud as gently caress without the dampers. They are cheap and easy to install while building it. Do it. I will look into the new script, sounds helpful.
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Dec 28, 2015 17:07
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Looks close enough. I hope postal services hurry the gently caress up for my heatsinks. Also, the wooden box of my CTC starts creaking with faster moves. I noticed some of the nuts start burying themselves into the wood. I guess I have to get crackin' on the aluminium frame.
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Dec 28, 2015 17:40
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Combat Pretzel posted:Looks close enough. I hope postal services hurry the gently caress up for my heatsinks. Kiiinda late to the game, but 2 points of support for the stepper might not be enough, IIRC it was one of the issues Wade fixed at some point, you might want to rotate it 90 degrees and do 3 attachment points.
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Dec 28, 2015 18:47
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The stock rostock hot end is a freakin' mess. I mean, like, by design. Everything else about the rig looks great, but that, it looks like it was designed by a three year old who has just gotten his hands on the glue and tape. With that in mind, I would really rather find a way to get the e3d working well enough to print a nicer mount. So with that in mind: I have some plastic that, it turns out, is precisely one-third the thickness of the shaft between the two mounting collars. I mean, it's so perfect, that if I stack three layers up, they actually click into place. So I'm thinking about cutting three of these on my cnc router:  They would each slip onto the shaft between the two collars, each one rotated 120° from the previous, and the mounting screws going through all three and then through the original standoffs and the effector plate. Basically replacing the mounting plate the original hot end would thread onto with this three-fold plate that clamps the hot end from three sides. Does this seem like a patently bad idea? Again, the goal is only to bootstrap directly to the e3d so I can skip what I feel is a really badly designed and messy part/process, and then once it's more or less working, immediately printing a new, proper mount. Any idea how hot the metal will get at the very top there? The material in question is acrylic, not sure what sort of temps I'd be looking at at the mount point, although since the printed mount would be grabbing it in the same place as well, I can't imagine it'd be THAT hot.
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Dec 28, 2015 19:55
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Combat Pretzel posted:Looks close enough. I hope postal services hurry the gently caress up for my heatsinks. Could you post a pic of your entire rig? Why does it need to be so wide? What does that snorkel thing do? I'm trying to find a local waterjet guy to cut me an aluminum i3 frame widened to 300x400mm utilizing two 300x200mm heated beds. Nobody will send me a quote after I send the .DWG files. Sad life. EDIT: ahhhhh, you've got a dual extruder. That's awesome and I am jealous. How come you're moving away from that? I am currently trying to figure out how to rig up my board to do dual extrusion. I have one plug for an extruder but TWO for the Z motors, so I am thinking I can rig up both Z motors to the same stepper driver since it moves so little, then tell Z2 to be E2 in the firmware (or E1, since the first one is E0) But I have never installed firmware onto my board, it has always worked really well from day 1 and I am scared to screw up the firmware math and never have it work right again. Also I am unsure if this can even be done, but I've found some forum threads on other boards where people do the same thing. I want dual extruders so I can print HIPS and whatever else. Dissolvable support structures. Does anybody here do that? bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Dec 28, 2015 |
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Dec 28, 2015 20:39
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deimos posted:Kiiinda late to the game, but 2 points of support for the stepper might not be enough, IIRC it was one of the issues Wade fixed at some point, you might want to rotate it 90 degrees and do 3 attachment points. --edit: I suppose I could integrate a springloaded drive block into it. I mean, I have a new E3D Hobb Goblin around here, too. 32MB OF ESRAM posted:Could you post a pic of your entire rig? Why does it need to be so wide? What does that snorkel thing do?  
Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Dec 28, 2015 |
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Dec 28, 2015 20:48
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Bad Munki posted:The stock rostock hot end is a freakin' mess. I mean, like, by design. Everything else about the rig looks great, but that, it looks like it was designed by a three year old who has just gotten his hands on the glue and tape. With that in mind, I would really rather find a way to get the e3d working well enough to print a nicer mount. So with that in mind: That seems perfectly reasonable. I use something very similar (2 pieces of laser cut wood) to mount my j head. The biggest concern I have is that Acrylic can be mean to machine. I presume though that if you have stock, and the machine, though that you've done it before. I'd probably point some kind of fan at it, but that's SOP with a all metal hot end anyway.
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Dec 28, 2015 20:53
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:EDIT: ahhhhh, you've got a dual extruder. That's awesome and I am jealous. How come you're moving away from that? I am currently trying to figure out how to rig up my board to do dual extrusion. 32MB OF ESRAM posted:I have one plug for an extruder but TWO for the Z motors, so I am thinking I can rig up both Z motors to the same stepper driver since it moves so little, then tell Z2 to be E2 in the firmware (or E1, since the first one is E0) But I have never installed firmware onto my board, it has always worked really well from day 1 and I am scared to screw up the firmware math and never have it work right again. Also I am unsure if this can even be done, but I've found some forum threads on other boards where people do the same thing. 32MB OF ESRAM posted:I want dual extruders so I can print HIPS and whatever else. Dissolvable support structures. Does anybody here do that? Plus that limonene bullshit didn't sound nice and cost effective. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Dec 28, 2015 |
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Dec 28, 2015 21:26
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So I got the Monoprice printer for Christmas and I'll be setting it up soon and giving it a go. I've read that PEI is good for a base to keep the plastic from separating. Also, what would be a good source of filament? I've found this which seems to be a good price and has good reviews.
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Dec 29, 2015 02:04
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Bookmark https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ for when strange things happen to prints. I've tried a few different sources for filament and honestly haven't had any trouble with the cheap eBay stuff so long as they have plenty of reviews and free shipping. But maybe I've just been lucky so far. If your printer doesn't already have one consider making one of these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471 (note that's a blower fan) to cool your PLA as it prints. I found it helps enormously with overhangs and bridging.
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Dec 29, 2015 09:14
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So yeah, when you guys calibrate the axes of your printer, do you do it based on the dimensions of the calibration or in such a way that the head travels the requested distance? I'm doing latter, but had discussions on another forum where they say they do former. I print with PET and PLA only, so it seems to work out for me, but supposedly would end up in drama for ABS parts not maintaining precision.
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Dec 29, 2015 14:13
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Welp, found my test object: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1068443
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Dec 30, 2015 23:51
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Finally had a chance to work on the Christmas rostock some more. Still set on skipping the stock hot end process. With that in mind, I got this put together tonight:  Only problem is, the stock standoffs are too short to accommodate the fan in the space between the effector plate and the mounting plates I made. I could go find some longer/extra standoffs, or I'm wondering if I can just get away with not having a fan on the heat sink long enough to calibrate and print a proper mount. I mean, the first print the manual has you do is a mount to install the equivalent fan, so I have to imagine things are at least functional without, right?
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Dec 31, 2015 01:59
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Nope, you 100% need the fan on the heatsink. You will end up with the mother of all clogs otherwise.
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Dec 31, 2015 02:03
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All righty, extra standoffs it is.
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Dec 31, 2015 02:04
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Well, the segmented standoffs look a little jenky to me because the OD is different and all, but it feels solid, the tip of the nozzle is still the lowest thing, and the fan fits. I'm pretty sure it'll do well enough to print off a proper mount.  
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Dec 31, 2015 03:32
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Opinions greatly welcome! The OP is pretty out of date, so I read the last few pages but didn't see anything about my question, so I thought I'd just ask. A friend of mine is about to buy a 3d printer, and now I'm thinking of taking the plunge as well. He's about 99% sold on the Maker Select from Monoprice, and I'm kinda leaning to it as well. My question is, since both of us are just going to use online sites to print poo poo from video games and other things, is it a decent printer? Also, can anyone point me towards a guide on how to take a model out of a game? I'd love to print the dagger from Shadow of Mordor but at the moment my experience with 3d printing is "throw money at someone and then throw money at shapeways"  Many many thanks in advance! Edit - holy fucknuggets the solidoodle press is a god damned nightmare machine and should never even be thought about. Stupid_Sexy_Flander fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Dec 31, 2015 |
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Dec 31, 2015 08:41
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We got a new printer at work this week.. My boss saw it at a show cranking out some really nice parts. It's taller than all of my coworkers. Of course, we don't seem to have any documentation or software for it (the swiss manufacturer and german reseller websites are a little unclear..), but hopefully we'll get it set up next week. Snackmar fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Dec 31, 2015 |
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Dec 31, 2015 17:35
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techknight posted:We got a new printer at work this week.. My boss saw it at a show cranking out some really nice parts.  i demand more info in a giant info dump asap :0
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Dec 31, 2015 18:01
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http://hypecask.com/portfolio-item/deltatower/ Well that's a website or it..
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Dec 31, 2015 20:22
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Happy 2016! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBFbo9vxmN4 Since I didn't need to print the rostock fan shroud they have you start with, I just told it to take a shot at the calibration cube that MatterControl loaded up by default. I don't know much, but personally, I think it's looking really good so far!  e: Not gonna lie: as the print head went screaming down toward the bed, I literally cringed and flinched as it halted under a millimeter from the glass. I think I've seen too many crashes on my previous CNC entries, it's made me a bit gun shy, even after the several hours of pre-print calibration I went through. e: Still going strong, still lookin' good.  e: This PLA smells vaguely like syrup, I fuckin' love it e: I've never been so excited about a tiny plastic block in my entire life:  e: Oh wow, final measured dimensions of the test block are +/- .04mm from the intent. Is that good? I feel like that's pretty good. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Jan 1, 2016 |
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Jan 1, 2016 06:43
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I just went ahead and bought simplify3d. Geirsklogulolualuhl, give me all your secret s3d Rostock settings 
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Jan 1, 2016 18:53
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Nerobro posted:http://hypecask.com/portfolio-item/deltatower/ Well that's a website or it.. That looks similar to Techknight's photo but it's definitely not the same machine. For one, the extruded aluminum parts are different; Techknight's looks a hell of a lot beefier and have two grooves. Finally, the printer on the website is only 135 cm/4 1/2 ft tall, and well...
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Jan 1, 2016 20:41
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Opinions greatly welcome! The OP is pretty out of date, so I read the last few pages but didn't see anything about my question, so I thought I'd just ask. Some games are easier than others to get stuff out of. Eve is pretty easy as are Bethesda games which gives you skyrim and fallout and medieval (I think). From a quick google SoM doesn't have much of a modding community which seems to be what's needed to get file extraction tools. I think Garry's mod files can also be extracted but I don't have GM so I'm not certain.
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Jan 1, 2016 21:11
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