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kimbo305 posted:With the bulb out, between blue and black, and yellow and black? Id find the wire comming out of the switch that turn your lights on. And test between that and the bulb to see if you got a short somewhere. Or jumping it by giving it 12 volts. If you dont have resistance or it turns on with 12 volts then its in the switch itself. Edit: poo poo, maybe im not understand the problem. Your saying that the whole fog light doesnt work when you have the lights on but blinks when you have a turn signal? Is one of two bulbs amber or something? Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jan 2, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 17:05
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I'll check to see if there's wiring diagrams in the manual. Some owner on FC has a walkthrough thread of him DIYing up his newly bought 348. The overhaul of the turn signal mechanism looked horrible. Unless I get one of those giant bubbles to work inside, I know that one of the tiny springs will fly off into oblivion. Preoptopus posted:poo poo, maybe im not understand the problem. Your saying that the whole fog light doesnt work when you have the lights on but blinks when you have a turn signal? Is one of two bulbs amber or something? Compare the left and right assemblies. There should be 2 amber lights on on each side, but one is off on the driver's side. All 4 blink when their side's turn signal is switched on.
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Jan 2, 2016 17:12
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OOOOOOOOOh somehow I missed that first picture. Im interested where that signal gets split from one to two. And are those crimp connectors?
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Jan 2, 2016 17:51
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Preoptopus posted:Im interested where that signal gets split from one to two. And are those crimp connectors? yes. Check those. also do you have weirdness going on with the L/H turn indicator on? if not your ground paths are fine. Did they do something assholish and run two parking light power wires? or do you have one connector for park/turn and it splits off inside the housing via crimps? answer to 1. get a dummy test light and ring out the connectors answer to 2. lovely crimp. twist/jiggle the crimps with the lights on. E: one is a weatherpak (ugh) and the other two are bullet connectors (double ugh). old britshit uses them. they're always making GBS threads up.
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Jan 2, 2016 18:38
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cursedshitbox posted:also do you have weirdness going on with the L/H turn indicator on? if not your ground paths are fine. quote:Did they do something assholish and run two parking light power wires? or do you have one connector for park/turn and it splits off inside the housing via crimps?
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Jan 3, 2016 03:22
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kimbo305 posted:Do you mean if lights act weird or differently on high beams vs low beams when applying either turn signal? park on + turn indicator. park off + turn indicator. crimps: 
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Jan 3, 2016 04:57
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cursedshitbox posted:E: one is a weatherpak (ugh) and the other two are bullet connectors (double ugh). old britshit uses them. they're always making GBS threads up. A lot of universal power supplies - particularly for laptops, but also wall-wart replacements that have interchangeable tips - use those bullet connectors. Never expected to see those on a car though, they're bad enough on the universal power supplies.
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Jan 3, 2016 08:58
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cursedshitbox posted:yes. Check those. Weatherpak's aren't THAT awful, certainly better than what was used in the 80's and early 90's. Those bullets are terrible, and prone to leaking water badly. The yellow insulated, non-sealed crimps need to go. I'll be that someone broke a socket or two, and bought used ones with short wires attached, then used the crimps to connect them to the factory wiring. Bleh.
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Jan 3, 2016 17:26
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kimbo305 posted:I've not seen these round plugs before: cursedshitbox posted:E: one is a weatherpak (ugh) and the other two are bullet connectors (double ugh). old britshit uses them. they're always making GBS threads up. I just came here to post this exact same thing. gently caress those plugs. And obviously we see where the Italians learn how to make cars catch fire 
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Jan 4, 2016 00:36
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So my procedure should be to: - check crimps to that bulb holder - pull wires loose, clean/scrape everything, recrimp - test again? What is the right kind of crimp connector for automative applications? I used these on the radio in the 190E way back:  Is this the same as what's lurking under the yellow insulation? Now I'm wondering where my crimper is.
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Jan 4, 2016 01:07
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cursedshitbox posted:weatherpak (ugh) Uh oh, what's bad about weatherpak connectors? I've just fitted 30 or so of them into my car wiring, as a replacement for previously crimped or soldered connections to aftermarket parts.
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Jan 4, 2016 21:33
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I've never had issues with them v vThey're certainly better than the dime-a-dozen brittle plastic ones that have been on all of my vehicles. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jan 4, 2016 |
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Jan 4, 2016 21:46
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kimbo305 posted:I've not seen these round plugs before: cursedshitbox posted:E: one is a weatherpak (ugh) and the other two are bullet connectors (double ugh). old britshit uses them. they're always making GBS threads up. sharkytm posted:Weatherpak's aren't THAT awful, certainly better than what was used in the 80's and early 90's. Those bullets are terrible, and prone to leaking water badly. The yellow insulated, non-sealed crimps need to go. I'll be that someone broke a socket or two, and bought used ones with short wires attached, then used the crimps to connect them to the factory wiring. Bleh. Weatherpaks were actually introduced in the 80s. They're the least awful 80s connector I've seen on a domestic vehicle, but not that great for a variety of reasons which I can sperg about at great length. Metripack sealed connectors on the other hand are really quite nice, the only connectors I like more than them for automotive engine bay purposes are Delphi Apex 2.8mm, Molex MX150/MX150L, and Deutsch offerings, which are expensive as hell. Metripacks are a great compromise between cost and performance. Those godawful bullet connectors... yeah... gently caress those. Every company has their own slightly different, completely incompatible, low contact pressure, water-hogging, corroded, hosed up, awful, shitpile version. e: I say domestic vehicle because Delphi is actually the remnants of the Packard (yes, that Packard, the one that made cars 50 years ago) Electric Division. Some still-in-production Delphi connectors, including many of the Type 56 series (AWFUL poo poo, only use these where needed to interface to original parts on an old car) have datasheets that were originally released in the mid 50s based off engineer signatures/dates, and are still produced off that design. If you see a "P E D" makers mark molded into a plastic connector housing in a car, best bet is that it's a Delphi connector, because P E D stands for Packard Electric Division. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jan 4, 2016 |
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Jan 4, 2016 21:52
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No updates here; busy with real life and the Charger. One of my best friends whom I haven't seen for 2 years finally came into town. Last I saw him, I pulled up to his house in the C6Z for Passover. He wasn't and isn't a car guy. He told me that he'd heard the Vette coming, but had no idea what it was. Same when I showed him the 348. He was super excited because he thought it was a cool looking car, but had no idea what it was. It slipped my mind to ask him to guess what model year. A rash of 308s on Bring a Trailer: Nice one went for $66k: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-ferrari-308-gtb/ A later example also going to fetch a good price: http://bringatrailer.com/2016/01/14/ferrari-308-gtsi-ebay/ And a Dino 308 that Mike from Wheeler Dealers would have run from: http://bringatrailer.com/2016/01/14/serviced-but-rusty-running-1975-dino-308-gt4-project/ That price is insane!
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Jan 14, 2016 23:56
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Man, the family member that had the 348ts also had a 308GT prior to that. He tried to buy some weirdo Ferrari (one that would be considered junky in the 1990s but probably is super collectible now) from an independent Ferrari mechanic around the time he had the 348ts and got taken and had to get his money back via the courts. That same mechanic had a Dino rotting away. He got into Miatas in a major way but missed the weird Italian stuff I guess and didn't want to pay what a Ferrari commands now so imported a Lancia Zagato Sport. I put some info about it in one of the threads here. Anyway still love this thread. We vaguely planned a road trip from AZ to CA in his 348 back in the 90s but I was young and stupid and never made it happen. One of those regrets. When he sold the 348 it went to a friend who had the dark lower bits all painted the same color as the body. He said it looked amazing. I can find the picture of the 348 and scan it if you have any desire to see it. Also I remember us laughing about that weird key. If you have any esoteric questions about the car that a new car owner may know I can ask him. It's been a long while since he has owned it but he's a major gear head and may be able to help. E: And if you want to know why the key folds he didn't know at the time either. I specifically remember us talking and him saying he didn't know why it did that. Sten Freak fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Jan 15, 2016 |
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Jan 15, 2016 00:31
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Sten Freak posted:Anyway still love this thread. We vaguely planned a road trip from AZ to CA in his 348 back in the 90s but I was young and stupid and never made it happen. One of those regrets. Go for it. The 1993 and later 348s were GTB and GTS, which got the body-colored rocker panels. They do look better, I think. Ask him which seat belt system he used, and if he ever hung the seat belt to these rubber hooks by the mirror:  I think the idea is that you have easier egress out of the car, but the belts hang down in the center, so I don't really get why they're there.
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Jan 15, 2016 00:47
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He didn't recall what I was talking about and asked for a pic which I sent him so we'll see.
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Jan 18, 2016 17:33
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And here's what he said:quote:It has been a loong time since I owned the 348, but i think it it to hang the belt on when you get out of the car so it doesn't strangle you. Many have converted these mouse belts, as they are a pain in the butt. Maybe yours have been converted already and they'd make sense if the belts were in a former (original?) configuration.
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Jan 18, 2016 18:27
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Sten Freak posted:Maybe yours have been converted already and they'd make sense if the belts were in a former (original?) configuration. The car has both a static belt buckle and the mouse. Some people take the mouse mechanism out and cover it to simplify things. I need mine because plugging the belt into it it's the only way to dismiss the passenger belt light when it sometimes comes on.
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Jan 19, 2016 05:42
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kimbo305 posted:The car has both a static belt buckle and the mouse. Some people take the mouse mechanism out and cover it to simplify things. I need mine because plugging the belt into it it's the only way to dismiss the passenger belt light when it sometimes comes on. A sporadic electrical fault in an Italian Sportscar? Why I never!  p.s. Love this thread.
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Jan 19, 2016 14:56
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The driver's side window switch doesn't always work. When it doesn't responds on first try, I gently rap the door near the switch with my fist. That has fixed it 4/5 times. The other time, it didn't help, but the window worked a minute later. It's the sort of thing that is on a razor's edge between charmingly amusing and "oh god, what if it stops working?"
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Jan 19, 2016 23:05
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kimbo305 posted:The driver's side window switch doesn't always work. When it doesn't responds on first try, I gently rap the door near the switch with my fist. That has fixed it 4/5 times. The other time, it didn't help, but the window worked a minute later.
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Jan 20, 2016 00:07
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kimbo305 posted:So my procedure should be to: Don't crimp, solder instead:  Strip and twist wires so that it looks like D, then add solder and heatshrink (put it on before you twist the wires together, obviously).
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Jan 30, 2016 03:41
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Cached Money posted:(put it on before you twist the wires together, obviously). Every time I've spliced wires, I've spliced them twice.
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Jan 30, 2016 04:39
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Hmm, I wonder if I can run a soldering iron off an inverter plugged into my small jump battery. Is soldering correct for all automotive applications? I read someone (kastein?) say that depending on your solder, it could be too brittle in a vibrating environment. I could run a trickle charger off that battery, right?
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Jan 30, 2016 04:48
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Crimping with the correct tool is better. Soldering is fine, so long as you support the connection with glue lined heat shrink. No matter what, use glue lined heat shrink.
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Jan 30, 2016 05:09
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kimbo305 posted:Hmm, I wonder if I can run a soldering iron off an inverter plugged into my small jump battery. Is soldering correct for all automotive applications? I read someone (kastein?) say that depending on your solder, it could be too brittle in a vibrating environment. They make little propane powered soldering irons.
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Jan 30, 2016 05:28
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I read that as borrow someone's lighter and do it very carefully?
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Jan 30, 2016 05:33
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A butane soldering iron probably gets hotter and is more controllable than a Zippo. I know Weller makes a nice one.sharkytm posted:Crimping with the correct tool is better. Soldering is fine, so long as you support the connection with glue lined heat shrink. No matter what, use glue lined heat shrink. Glue lined weatherproof heat shrink.
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Jan 30, 2016 05:35
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I used to have some amazing 3M butt splices that would curl around the wire ends when you crimped them, were filled with glue, had a solder spot in the centre, and they shrunk when you heated them. They were like every technique shotgunned at the problem at once.
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Jan 30, 2016 06:54
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While I didn't twist the wire all up like in that graphic, I can testify that a weak solder joint can vibrate apart in an automotive setting. I always crimp now. If it's in the engine bay I use the heatshrinkable crimp connectors.
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Jan 30, 2016 07:11
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kimbo305 posted:I read someone (kastein?) say that depending on your solder, it could be too brittle in a vibrating environment. My understanding is that a perfect, strain-relieved and weather-proofed solder connection is just as good as a perfect crimp, but it's a lot easier to get a (uninsulated ferrule + adhesive heatshrink) crimp nearly perfect than it is for a layperson to solder a nearly perfect joint.
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Jan 30, 2016 07:31
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Cached Money posted:Don't crimp, solder instead: I have always used a similar connection and know how to solder, but every time I see this it is for solid core wire. Have always wondered if it should be a little different for stranded.
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Jan 30, 2016 07:44
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My favorite trick for regular braided wire is to wrap the wires together lengthwise (similar to above but less intricate,) sliding a heatshrink jacket on beforehand. Then I wrap a ~3/4" thread of silver bearing solder around the exposed wires, wrap the combination in aluminum foil and hit it with a crack torch lighter. Instantly the the solder liquefies, leaving you with a very solid connection primed for heatshrink.
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Jan 30, 2016 10:27
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Das Volk posted:My favorite trick for regular braided wire is to wrap the wires together lengthwise (similar to above but less intricate,) sliding a heatshrink jacket on beforehand. Then I wrap a ~3/4" thread of silver bearing solder around the exposed wires, wrap the combination in aluminum foil and hit it with a crack torch lighter. Instantly the the solder liquefies, leaving you with a very solid connection primed for heatshrink. Sorry dude, but that is jank as gently caress.
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Jan 30, 2016 13:07
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kimbo305 posted:I read that as borrow someone's lighter and do it very carefully? Cheapskate Ferrari owner.
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Jan 30, 2016 13:26
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Cakefool posted:Cheapskate Ferrari owner. I know, I shopped around for which parts site shipped a few feet of adhesive-lined heatshrink for the cheapest. Just riles me to pay $8 shipping for $5 of parts.
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Jan 30, 2016 19:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A butane soldering iron probably gets hotter and is more controllable than a Zippo. I know Weller makes a nice one. Yup, I used a $45 Weller Portasol for all kinds of work, including surface mount PCB stuff. Great iron.
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Jan 30, 2016 19:53
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Raluek posted:Sorry dude, but that is jank as gently caress. Nope, it's rock solid and miles better than a crimped connection. I wouldn't use it as a first solution, but it's perfectly viable in tight spaces.
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Jan 31, 2016 00:00
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Why not use a soldering iron instead of soldering it like you're smoking PCP?
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Jan 31, 2016 00:07
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