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Cpt.Wacky posted:
If you wanted to ship me that No. 7 I would happily pay for shipping and some for your time. That is the gap in my collection and I want to do some work on some big beams that needs a larger plane.
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Jan 1, 2016 18:44
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Bah what a dissapointment, made a simple router box joint jig like this to try and quickly get some boxes done to keep the boys duplos and other stuff in, but the straight bit I am using just explodes the work pieces I tested it on, tear out like a mother. http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html Need to work extra hard to finish some other projects so I can finally build that box joint jig from woodgears.
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Jan 1, 2016 19:37
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His Divine Shadow posted:Bah what a dissapointment, made a simple router box joint jig like this to try and quickly get some boxes done to keep the boys duplos and other stuff in, but the straight bit I am using just explodes the work pieces I tested it on, tear out like a mother. I got not so nice cuts on my straight cut bit with my router table when trying to do box joints until I got an upcut spiral bit. That seems to do way way nicer cuts for me. Not sure if it's the bit quality or if that style just does a better job of going straight in like that though.
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Jan 1, 2016 19:42
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Cakefool posted:First notable points on the Brass should be easy to file down with a flat file and some finer grit sandpaper will polish it up again. Slack in the depth adjustment wheel is normal and expected. Atticus_1354 posted:If you wanted to ship me that No. 7 I would happily pay for shipping and some for your time. That is the gap in my collection and I want to do some work on some big beams that needs a larger plane. Keep in mind it's a Groz made in India, not a Stanley. The important part about a #7 is the flatness and this one will take some lapping. It should just barely fit in a large game board flat rate box if disassembled, so shipping to US should be about $18. PM if you still want it. midge posted:Certainly interested if you'll ship to Toronto, CANADAADANDANDADADA It's your money. One of each would fit in a single large flat rate box but shipping to Canadia is about $60. PM if you still want them.
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Jan 1, 2016 20:17
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Cpt.Wacky posted:
Where on the Olympic Peninsula? I'm in Seattle and we were just out in PA for Christmas. My inlaws are visiting and will be driving back to PA tomorrow and could pick it up if it you happen to be along the way. I don't own any planes, but would love to try out a #4 if one is still available. I'm assuming the Stanley #4 is the one I would want. And possibly the #3. Falco fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Jan 2, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 00:01
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Falco posted:Where on the Olympic Peninsula? I'm in Seattle and we were just out in PA for Christmas. My inlaws are visiting and will be driving back to PA tomorrow and could pick it up if it you happen to be along the way. I don't own any planes, but would love to try out a #4 if one is still available. I'm assuming the Stanley #4 is the one I would want. And possibly the #3. Hey, another Seattle woodworking goon! What kind of work space do you have in the city? I am stuck in an apartment for now, so have a collapsible bench and just a few hand tools. I would also be interested in a #4 Stanley as well. Cpt.Wacky, what part of the Peninsula are you on? I haven't been over there in 10 years or so, but want to make it back over with my wife. She has never been.
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Jan 2, 2016 00:55
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Falco posted:Where on the Olympic Peninsula? I'm in Seattle and we were just out in PA for Christmas. My inlaws are visiting and will be driving back to PA tomorrow and could pick it up if it you happen to be along the way. I don't own any planes, but would love to try out a #4 if one is still available. I'm assuming the Stanley #4 is the one I would want. And possibly the #3. Port Angeles. The #3 is corrugated which doesn't make much difference in practice. It's basically the same as a #4 but slightly shorter, narrow and lighter. DevNull posted:I would also be interested in a #4 Stanley as well. Cpt.Wacky, what part of the Peninsula are you on? I haven't been over there in 10 years or so, but want to make it back over with my wife. She has never been. If midge doesn't want to pay for shipping then you can have it. The Anant and Groz are serviceable planes if you're desperate.
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Jan 2, 2016 01:29
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Port Angeles. The #3 is corrugated which doesn't make much difference in practice. It's basically the same as a #4 but slightly shorter, narrow and lighter. Sure, I'll snag just the #4. I'll PM you to get your address.
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Jan 2, 2016 02:25
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His Divine Shadow posted:Bah what a dissapointment, made a simple router box joint jig like this to try and quickly get some boxes done to keep the boys duplos and other stuff in, but the straight bit I am using just explodes the work pieces I tested it on, tear out like a mother. It's less versatile than the Woodgears box joint jig, but John Heisz's new ultimate box joint jig is a dedicated 1/8" increment jig, and it's really simple and super reliable. http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/Jigs/ultimate-box-joint-jig-1.html Lets you do 1/16 box joints, which are my preference for small stuff, and throw an 1/8" kerf blade in the saw and 1/8 or 1/4" box joints are as large as I personally ever go.
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Jan 2, 2016 03:15
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My mum got me an old plane for Christmas. Got round to fixing it up a bit today. The planeiron came up ok but my sharpening jig is out of square so it's not the best job. Got some good shavings out of i through, and it'll come in very handy when I start my workbench build this month. I'd date it between 1910 and 1960, but I couldn't really find any distinguishing features to narrow it down further. Before  After       Unfortunately Australia doesn't quite have a massive quantity of used hand tools. I'm having a hell of a time finding a rebate plane. They're either completely busted or missing parts, or people want silly money for them. Tool fairs seem to be the way to go but I have to travel >2 hours just to get far enough out of the city where they normally take place. You guys in the US have it lucky!
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Jan 2, 2016 03:38
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Hypnolobster posted:It's less versatile than the Woodgears box joint jig, but John Heisz's new ultimate box joint jig is a dedicated 1/8" increment jig, and it's really simple and super reliable. Clever design, I like that. So much simpler to build and use.
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Jan 2, 2016 03:59
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Granite Octopus posted:Unfortunately Australia doesn't quite have a massive quantity of used hand tools. I'm having a hell of a time finding a rebate plane. They're either completely busted or missing parts, or people want silly money for them. Tool fairs seem to be the way to go but I have to travel >2 hours just to get far enough out of the city where they normally take place. You guys in the US have it lucky! Paul Sellers has got you covered: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTuOtmlRhAI
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Jan 2, 2016 04:23
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Cakefool posted:The idea you must have the best tools holds you back from just getting stuck in and learning. It isn't necessary to buy the best, specifically I said a "good" plane which I would consider to be a vintage Stanley, Record, or a couple other brands, that needs work but isn't broken or missing parts. I'm not familiar with the brand, Faithful, you mentioned earlier -- maybe it's a good brand. Just I've never heard of it and was getting a sense of hesitation in your post which made me believe it is not a good plane.
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Jan 2, 2016 06:10
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can you get to sydney in Feb? http://www.tttg.org.au/php/WorkshopView.php?EventId=29
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Jan 2, 2016 06:14
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I only have a lovely block plane. I'll take whatever as long as it works. It's better than the nothing I have now. Edit: really should have refreshed the page. Oops.
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Jan 2, 2016 07:10
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Paul Sellers has got you covered: Fantastic! Going to try this out. I even have a spare 12mm chisel.
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Jan 2, 2016 09:13
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Hypnolobster posted:It's less versatile than the Woodgears box joint jig, but John Heisz's new ultimate box joint jig is a dedicated 1/8" increment jig, and it's really simple and super reliable. Yeah but I bought the plans for this jig a year ago, and I've had a full size printout and all waiting to go. I started cutting up the parts last night infact. I also want this spring to make these huge box joints when making planter boxes like these, this will require something completely different to make, perhaps a router and a template of some kind. It's a very simple joint, you just need one template and flip the joining piece. Could also be made on the bandsaw, but I want to make a lot of these and hand cutting joints would get boring fast. 
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 10:13 on Jan 2, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 10:03
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His Divine Shadow posted:I also want this spring to make these huge box joints when making planter boxes like these, this will require something completely different to make, perhaps a router and a template of some kind. It's a very simple joint, you just need one template and flip the joining piece. Could also be made on the bandsaw, but I want to make a lot of these and hand cutting joints would get boring fast. I can't imagine that running an 8' 2x8 board vertically through a tablesaw or router would be much fun (or safe, due to lack of control). Gonna have to hand-cut those suckers.
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Jan 2, 2016 16:21
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The ideal machine to make lots of those is a pantorouter though. Or a shaper ofcourse, but that's out of my league.
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Jan 2, 2016 16:32
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Granite Octopus posted:My mum got me an old plane for Christmas. Got round to fixing it up a bit today. The planeiron came up ok but my sharpening jig is out of square so it's not the best job. Got some good shavings out of i through, and it'll come in very handy when I start my workbench build this month. A good mum.
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Jan 2, 2016 16:42
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His Divine Shadow posted:The ideal machine to make lots of those is a pantorouter though. A shaper is as ridiculous as a table router here. You're not looking for a furniture quality dovetail. Just use your bandsaw, or hand saw and the Good Lord will provide. Or even a jigsaw....
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Jan 2, 2016 16:44
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I'd say bandsaw, the box joints would be fat enough you could use the bandsaw to also cut out the waste at an angle. Then use it to nibble away the rest and give you a decently clean shoulder.
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Jan 2, 2016 16:58
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Mr. Mambold posted:A shaper is as ridiculous as a table router here. You're not looking for a furniture quality dovetail. Just use your bandsaw, or hand saw and the Good Lord will provide. Or even a jigsaw.... I'm looking for speed and avoiding tedious loving handwork. Not that I ever said I'd use a table router for this, or a box joint jig either. I suppose I could stick a bunch together and cut all the joints on the bandsaw at once... I can do 13" worth in one pass, 16" if the blade guard mount wasn't so badly designed. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jan 2, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 17:44
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His Divine Shadow posted:I suppose I could stick a bunch together and cut all the joints on the bandsaw at once... I can do 13" worth in one pass, 16" if the blade guard mount wasn't so badly designed. Stacking boards does lead to the potential for the blade to deflect. I don't know how big of a blade you can mount in your bandsaw, but wider is better. I think you'll probably spend more time trying to figure out how to do this quickly than you'll save vs. just doing it one at a time, unless you're planning to do like a dozen planter boxes.
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Jan 2, 2016 17:55
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm looking for speed and avoiding tedious loving handwork. Not that I ever said I'd use a table router for this, or a box joint jig either. You've got a monster bandsaw iirc, so that may work if you can figure how to accurately stack and maneuver 300 lbs of lumber....I think you're in for tedious loving work here however you play it. I'm thinking chainsaw and a guide at this point, lol.
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Jan 2, 2016 18:08
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I don't think a dozen might be far off, of varying sizes, at least 4 big ones stacked 2x high, so 8 of those, in which there will go black and red currants, goosberries and rasp berries, also getting 80 strawberry plants come spring so I gotta make a plot ready for that too, and then some netting to protect against birds and whatnot. Smaller ones might go elsewhere, too.
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Jan 2, 2016 18:11
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wormil posted:It isn't necessary to buy the best, specifically I said a "good" plane which I would consider to be a vintage Stanley, Record, or a couple other brands, that needs work but isn't broken or missing parts. I'm not familiar with the brand, Faithful, you mentioned earlier -- maybe it's a good brand. Just I've never heard of it and was getting a sense of hesitation in your post which made me believe it is not a good plane. It's a cheap make but not totally unknown. They've been around for years at the cheap end of the market, I think I remember Paul Sellers writing about his faithfull chisels, I expect to replace it in a couple of years with something better if I find it a chore to use (and I'm still doing woodworking) but I've got it now and I've tried to set it up and got reasonable shavings out of it, considering the crappy knotty wood I'm using.
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Jan 2, 2016 18:26
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Old or chinese, you're likely to be doing some work. I got a No.4 Bailey from a local farmers market and I probably did more work squaring the blade than I would have on a £20 faithfull. It was so skewed I had to put the adjuster all the way to one side just to get a straight shaving. Got a bunch of faithfull tools. They do a decent ball peen hammer if you're willing to re-dress them and their big dressmakers shears are great. The most important thing is the blade steel, be it plane or chisel or pocket knife. If the blade will take and hold an edge you can always square up the edge and get it shaving sharp, even with just some glass, windex and wet 'n dry paper. If the steel is ok then the biggest problem with a cheap plane will have is probably a warped sole or sloppy adjustment. Soles can be trued up with a little patience and as long as the adjustment mech is basically functional then it will just be a bit of a faff.
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Jan 2, 2016 19:50
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Ok so this is what I'm going to try to build I was looking at the little desk with drawers in my bedroom to figure out how it was built. It all looks like solid heavy wood but most of it is very thin veneer. How do you attach veneer to your frame? I couldn't spot any nail holes and it's too thin to screw from the inside, so I imagine it's just glue of some sort? Anyways, my plan here is to just make a frame out of cheap but nice dimensional lumber instead of expensive ripped furniture quality 3/4 ply, then put some 1/8 skin on the sides and back. Want to keep this nice and light and cheap but sturdy and nice looking. I've drawn about a 2mm gap around the doors, my experiments with my own kitchen cabinet doors show they only need 1mm gap to function. I've never built anything like this. Any tips? I have access to a small workshop at my local makerspace which I can use to drill-press the holes for the euro-hinges in the doors, but otherwise I hope to put this together like an ikea set in my apartment. My main worry is something not being straight or perfect and the doors not working right or lining up right.
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Jan 3, 2016 01:40
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Here is a small bookcase build video that shows filling and trimming plywood then applying veneer that should give you an idea of what to expect. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43BpdiyKhmo
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Jan 3, 2016 02:26
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Can anyone recommend quality push to open sliders for a hidden drawer?
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Jan 3, 2016 03:04
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S2 preview of Ellen's Design Challenge aired today, or yesterday, I don't know but it was on my DVR. Season starts later in January.
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Jan 3, 2016 05:24
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Baronjutter posted:Ok so this is what I'm going to try to build I wouldn't do this.
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Jan 3, 2016 16:15
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Mr. Mambold posted:I wouldn't do this. Why not? And what should I do instead?
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Jan 3, 2016 20:06
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Baronjutter posted:Why not? And what should I do instead? I'm assuming that by euro-hinges, you're referring to the half sunken style of hinge that Ikea uses. While I like that style of hinge, I find it a pain to work out where the holes need to be and to get them aligned perfectly. They are much more fiddly than regular hinges in that sense. But given the stuff you post in the scale modelling thread, it might not be all that fiddly to you.
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Jan 3, 2016 20:44
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Baronjutter posted:it's just glue of some sort? Correct. The type of glue varies but generally either yellow wood glue or contact cement will work. Baronjutter posted:make a frame out of cheap but nice dimensional lumber instead of expensive ripped furniture quality 3/4 ply, then put some 1/8 skin on the sides and back. Want to keep this nice and light and cheap but sturdy and nice looking. If I understand you mean to use construction grade plywood and skin it with 1/8" lauan, birch ply or something similar ... I don't see a problem. The difficulty in skinning larges sheets of ply is getting firm uniform pressure across the surface, it can be done but you need to plan it out. I agree with Mr. Mambold that I wouldn't do it, but it can be done. Around here you can buy inexpensive hardwood plywood at Lowes/HD for around $45/sheet Baronjutter posted:I've never built anything like this. Any tips? I have access to a small workshop at my local makerspace which I can use to drill-press the holes for the euro-hinges in the doors, but otherwise I hope to put this together like an ikea set in my apartment. My main worry is something not being straight or perfect and the doors not working right or lining up right. My experience with Euro-hinges has been they are easy to use and can be drilled by hand. There are ways to align them or you can buy or make a simple jig. I bought a little kit with the 35mm bit and and locator jig when I bought the hinges.
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Jan 3, 2016 22:24
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Thanks for the suggestion Cpt.Wacky! I threw this together last night. It's not the prettiest or most accurate but amazingly it works! It all came together surprisingly easily. Still need to make the little bottom fence thingy. 
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Jan 3, 2016 23:27
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So here's hoping someone can help me out with a staining problem I'm having. So I built the table over christmas that I was trying using wood I purchased from Home Depot. I think the construction came out pretty good. However when I went to stain it things went pretty off the rails. Online I found people applying one coat of Minwax Weathered Oak either under or over a coat of Special Walnut. So I went ahead and applied a coat of Weathered Oak (after applying the pre-conditioner) and while some parts of the wood came out grey-ish, the rest of it came out... well I don't know how else to describe it but orange and looking nothing like what other people were getting. I thought maybe it would look better after applying the special walnut ontop of the weathered oak so I did that to just the simple stretcher board and it does look better, but it still has an orange-ish red color to it. Is there any way to get rid of this orange-ish red color without just getting darker and darker until you can't see it anymore or am I stuck with either going very dark or having orange-ish red tint to it?
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Jan 3, 2016 23:38
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Steampunk Hitler posted:So here's hoping someone can help me out with a staining problem I'm having. Afraid I don't know the answer to your question, but this kind of thing is why you should always test your stains and finishes on a piece of scrap before applying it to the main piece of work.
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Jan 3, 2016 23:50
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Steampunk Hitler posted:So here's hoping someone can help me out with a staining problem I'm having. Can you bring it out with lacquer thinner or something? The painters I've known say there's 2 basic colors in woodworking, red and green....which together equal brown? More green will negate the red. If you try this route, go to a paint store and have them squish you out both in styrofoam cups. Or maybe they've got it in tubes.
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Jan 4, 2016 00:08
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