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mod sassinator posted:I have a separate bag for all those specialized one-off tools. Stuff like a stethoscope, spark plug wire pullers, etc. Makes it a lot easy than digging through all the wrenches and sockets to find something specialized. That's a drat good idea. And I'm partial to "I saw that [goddamn] thing ten [loving] times when I didn't need it!
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Jan 1, 2016 17:21
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Christobevii3 posted:Why are there specific serpentine tools? Is this some fwd car problem? I've always been able to use a socket and ratchet. Yup, they're a godsend in some transverse applications. Belt on a Saturn SL is drat near impossible without using one (and leaning on it like your life depends on it).
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Jan 1, 2016 17:34
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Same thing for the 3.8 in most chrysler minivans. They use a 1/2 ratchet head for the tensioner and good luck fitting any 1/2 ratchet in that gap. In tool news I'm having trouble with all my matco tools being complete poo poo and not working. Is there a way, besides calling corporate, to get him to take his poo poo tools back. I mean everything I have bought went bad the first time I used it. Checking my test light across a battery, bulb blows. Use my impact driver to get set screws out and breaks. I mean even the 1/4 electric ratchet doesn't torque to what it's rated and the battery's can't hold a charge if you let it sit for a few days. I mean I've payed this guy alot of money over the last year and all he has given me is poo poo tools worse then HF. So I guess I basically just needed to vent about the horrors of dealing with tool pimps.
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Jan 1, 2016 17:50
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SouthsideSaint posted:Same thing for the 3.8 in most chrysler minivans. They use a 1/2 ratchet head for the tensioner and good luck fitting any 1/2 ratchet in that gap. In tool news I'm having trouble with all my matco tools being complete poo poo and not working. Is there a way, besides calling corporate, to get him to take his poo poo tools back. I mean everything I have bought went bad the first time I used it. Checking my test light across a battery, bulb blows. Use my impact driver to get set screws out and breaks. I mean even the 1/4 electric ratchet doesn't torque to what it's rated and the battery's can't hold a charge if you let it sit for a few days. I mean I've payed this guy alot of money over the last year and all he has given me is poo poo tools worse then HF. So I guess I basically just needed to vent about the horrors of dealing with tool pimps. You could always stop paying and he will come get the tools back... But seriously, I've noticed matco stuff seems like it is going downhill. I haven't had much experience beyond their regular and silver eagle lines and I haven't bought anything off a truck, just what the school buys. Hopefully our new guy gets us better gear from another truck that came by, like a catch all with gearwrench, fastenal, and a lot of the other brands such as Allen, Crescent, and others. He is giving you new tools, right? Or are you getting hand me downs and repos? I'd call him first and explain the tools are poo poo and you'd like new replacements, otherwise you'd like a refund and if he balks call corporate, I guess.
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Jan 1, 2016 20:17
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Yeah he hasn't wanted to take any of the tools back. When my 3/8 impact driver started stripping bits every time I used I told him take it back because my 20 HF works better then his 80$ one. He said all the guys who have bought them off of him complain about the bits. Then the driver broke and just spins but never engages the bit. Silver eagle is often poo poo and now alot of matco brand tools are going to poo poo. When I see him Friday he's getting the ultimatum of take my tools back clear my debt or I'm not paying anymore.
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Jan 1, 2016 20:47
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Would it be more wise to get a 3/8" impact wrench for casual automotive use? The 1/2" is a lot bigger, heavier and it seems like the smaller one will be easier to fit into smaller spaces / not be too overpowered for the majority of the bolts in my engine bay. I believe they can also take off properly torqued lugs (~85ft/lbs) on most sedans right? Not looking to work on farm equipment with it and trying to be realistic about the torque / size / location of the average bolt I will end up using it on. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-XWT06Z-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Square/dp/B00SL2LYHM/
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Jan 1, 2016 21:32
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I use a 3/8 milwaukee fuel that's rated for 200 lbft on car lug nuts a decent amount and it's great. The smaller size is sooo nice too considering I'll probably never need the 700lbft of the big guy.
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Jan 1, 2016 23:20
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Vulcan posted:Would it be more wise to get a 3/8" impact wrench for casual automotive use? The 1/2" is a lot bigger, heavier and it seems like the smaller one will be easier to fit into smaller spaces / not be too overpowered for the majority of the bolts in my engine bay. Are you looking for one do it all impact or would you be interested in multiple? I have the 3/8" 12v makita and love it but use my friend's 1/2" Snap On for the tough poo poo and want one of those, too. The 12v system is really tiny and they make a bunch of cool stuff for it. But if you went Milwaukee you could get that heated hoodie in the 12v, too! E: turns out the 18v Makita has the jacket option instead of 12v like everyone else. El Jebus fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jan 1, 2016 |
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Jan 1, 2016 23:34
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Is $300 for the Milwaukee 3/8" M18 Fuel gen2 with two 5.0XC batteries and a charger a deal worth jumping on? Thinking about grabbing that plus a 3/8-to-1/4 adapter so the 3/8 can also replace my manual "beat with hammer" impact screwdriver. Spending a little more for the XC battery kit means I can buy the 1/2 impact as a bare tool later, since I dont think the big gun will run on the standard capacity batteries. It's a little confusing to shop for since there are so many different packages, and "Gen2" with the slightly smaller housing isn't always noted. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jan 2, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 00:01
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Vulcan posted:Would it be more wise to get a 3/8" impact wrench for casual automotive use? The 1/2" is a lot bigger, heavier and it seems like the smaller one will be easier to fit into smaller spaces / not be too overpowered for the majority of the bolts in my engine bay. I'd just get the 1/2" brushless version (http://www.amazon.com/Makita-XWT02Z-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless/dp/B00MZ0MN0S) for $10 more. Better in every way and smaller too. I'm sure there's a 3/8" anvil version of that but unless you have mostly 3/8" sockets, the 1/2" is stronger and has slightly more torque. And yeah it'll easily take off properly torqued lug nuts, its power will drop off precipitously the more extensions you have on it though. eddiewalker posted:Is $300 for the Milwaukee 3/8" M18 Fuel gen2 with two 5.0XC batteries and a charger a deal worth jumping on? That's not a bad price, though not amazing, it's about $30 off the usual. Same as above, I'd just get the 1/2" version of the compact Gen 2, they sell 1/2" to 1/4" adapters as well. The big 1/2" gun should work fine on regular capacity batteries, in general the impact tools don't care, it's stuff like the drills and grinders that'll lose power with non XC since they draw much more current. Easiest way to tell the Gen 2 apart is that it doesn't have the big screw sticking out of the top middle of the gun, that and it has 4 settings vs 3.
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Jan 2, 2016 03:04
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^^ Can confirm, the Makita impact is awesome. Works great on everything from axle nuts to the blade holder on my lawnmower to the cassette on my bicycle. Plus it's a lot more convenient and maneuverable than my pneumatic impact, gently caress dragging around hoses and charging the tank and stuff.eddiewalker posted:Is $300 for the Milwaukee 3/8" M18 Fuel gen2 with two 5.0XC batteries and a charger a deal worth jumping on? That doesn't sound like a bad buy, typically the batteries are around a hundred apiece and the bare tool is probably around two hundred. For a Chinese company, Milwaukee makes good cordless tools, and they've got a good variety of stuff to choose from. e: If you want a smaller impact, you should pick up an impact driver and use a 3/8 socket adapter. That'll rattle off most stuff you'd want a 3/8 for, with the added benefit of being the most useful drill you've ever owned. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jan 6, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 04:08
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El Jebus posted:Are you looking for one do it all impact or would you be interested in multiple? I have the 3/8" 12v makita and love it but use my friend's 1/2" Snap On for the tough poo poo and want one of those, too. The 12v system is really tiny and they make a bunch of cool stuff for it. But if you went Milwaukee you could get that heated hoodie in the 12v, too! I'm debating getting that and some low pro 18v batteries for longer life.
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Jan 2, 2016 07:00
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Christobevii3 posted:Why are there specific serpentine tools? Is this some fwd car problem? I've always been able to use a socket and ratchet. I just did a ford edge that has a stretch belt to the power steering pump and requires a specialty tool to get it on and off.
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Jan 2, 2016 16:25
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Preoptopus posted:I just did a ford edge that has a stretch belt to the power steering pump and requires a specialty tool to get it on and off. Since when we're side cutters a specialty tool? Or are you a poor soul who has to re use a stretch belt? I love how most stretch belt install tools are a tiny piece of sloped polished metal and cost 60-100 $$
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Jan 2, 2016 16:42
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I got two boxes full of mostly Craftsman hand tools that were my grandpa's. Everything seems to have a V stamped on them, and I'm thinking the majority of stuff is from the late-70s or early 80s. That means that these should be "good" Craftsman stuff, right?
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Jan 3, 2016 01:55
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I have a question about pitman arm pullers. I'm looking for a cheap one on eBay because I just need to do a pitman arm swap for a steering box replacement. Trouble is I'm not sure about the measurements. I need something that can take a pitman arm about 50mm wide. When they say "opening size" are they referring to the space between the fingers or arms e: messed up wording.
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Jan 3, 2016 02:16
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Deeters posted:I got two boxes full of mostly Craftsman hand tools that were my grandpa's. Everything seems to have a V stamped on them, and I'm thinking the majority of stuff is from the late-70s or early 80s. That means that these should be "good" Craftsman stuff, right? Circle V's are anywhere from the mid 40s until the mid 80s. Some are poo poo, most are good/better than current. That marking was pretty non-specific as to anything other than "we had someone make this for us during this time period." It can be anything form a Fulton/Dunlap (the low end ones) to SK (nice stuff). But in general, you should be fine. And if you need to warranty a ratchet I'd suggest demanding a rebuild kit or the same model (which they won't have) rather than taking a new one off the shelf.
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Jan 3, 2016 02:20
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I need to know how much this changes life expectancy in cold countries. http://imgur.com/gallery/f6FwLzv
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Jan 3, 2016 03:20
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I need to know how much this changes life expectancy in cold countries.  Chainsaw chaps ain't gonna protect you from Wil E Coyote-ing a hole in the ice
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Jan 3, 2016 03:29
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Motronic posted:But in general, you should be fine. And if you need to warranty a ratchet I'd suggest demanding a rebuild kit or the same model (which they won't have) rather than taking a new one off the shelf. This times a million. I didn't know I could do this when I warranteed my dad's old 1/4"-drive Craftsman for a piece of Chinese pot metal garbage a couple years ago. Picked up a 3/8"-drive Matco ratchet at the flea market today for $5. It's marked BR8N. A little googling tells me it was made by New Britain Machine Co. sometime in the 70s or 80s. It's in great shape for its age. Going to clean and lube it at work on Monday. Looking forward to one day breaking it and warranteeing it for a $100+ modern high tooth count ratchet in the future. Garbage iphone 4 pictures:  
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Jan 3, 2016 05:50
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Cool, I was pretty sure it was a good set since my grandpa rarely bought cheap stuff. It's all in really good condition, so I doubt it'll need to be replaced or repaired any time soon. Greased maybe, but the ratchets all felt pretty smooth to me. Now I just need to figure out how to store it all since my closet doesn't have room for a nice rolling cabinet
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Jan 3, 2016 16:41
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Deeters posted:Now I just need to figure out how to store it all since my closet doesn't have room for a nice rolling cabinet I had one of these (in yellow) for years during apartment living. I fit a ton of hand tools in there in an organized fashion and could carry it if needed (but not much further than to my car). Waterloo PP-2314BK Specialty Series Plastic/Metal Portable Chest, 3-Drawers, 23-Inch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DP7VBK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ZbvIwbN6W2P2K
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Jan 3, 2016 17:48
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Any thoughts on the Harbor Freight trailer? http://m.harborfreight.com/1195-lb-capacity-48-inch-x-96-inch-heavy-duty-foldable-utility-trailer-with-12-inch-wheels-90154.html
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Jan 3, 2016 18:00
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FogHelmut posted:Any thoughts on the Harbor Freight trailer? Been thinking about picking one up for myself, from what I've heard, apparently they're ok, you get what you pay for. Not something I would use for more than a motorcycle. Someone on a jeep forum reinforced the weak spots with a few welds and made it into a pretty decent trailer. Apparently it takes awhile to assemble too, just fyi Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 19:16
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FogHelmut posted:Any thoughts on the Harbor Freight trailer? I've had one for a few years. I've built two and the second one only took an evening. I welded the corners because I could, but I don't think it was really necessary. There's a trick on YouTube for using a piece of rope and gravity to fold and unfold it alone. Works really well with a little practice. We mostly use it for light hauling: IKEA purchases, bagged mulch and dirt, an engine. It's held up fine. I expect the wiring to need to be replaced eventually from getting pinched when unfolding. I think it was worth the money and love the easy storage. Budget another $60 for a sheet of 3/4" treated plywood and galvanized carriage bolts. Nip the corners off the wood so it'll sit flat over the corner bolts.
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Jan 3, 2016 21:14
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OSU_Matthew posted:Someone on a jeep forum reinforced the weak spots with a few welds and made it into a pretty decent trailer. That is adorable 
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Jan 4, 2016 14:04
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Just gotta flaunt these hella nice Wera wrenches that Cakefool Secret Santa'ed me: 
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Jan 4, 2016 17:32
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Sexy.
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Jan 4, 2016 17:50
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General_Failure posted:I have a question about pitman arm pullers. I'm looking for a cheap one on eBay because I just need to do a pitman arm swap for a steering box replacement. Trouble is I'm not sure about the measurements. I need something that can take a pitman arm about 50mm wide. When they say "opening size" are they referring to the space between the fingers or arms Not sure, but remember the hammer trick... don't rely on pure pressure from the tool to pull the pitman. The splined shaft is tapered, as is the hole in the pitman arm. So snug the puller down as tight as you can with a box wrench, then love-tap the end of the pitman arm perpendicular to the hole where the shaft goes through it with a BFH a couple times and it should pop loose, then you can pull it easily with the puller. I've only ever bought $15 crap tier pitman pullers (last one got stolen, it didn't break) and never broken one. Don't go full retard on it with the hammer if you care about the bearings in the steering box, it'll flatten them. In this case, knock yourself out, since a new one's going in anyways.
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Jan 4, 2016 18:21
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FogHelmut posted:Any thoughts on the Harbor Freight trailer? What do you need it for / how often do you need it? Even at HF prices to buy a trailer, it takes a lot of $15/day trailer rentals from UHaul to break even, and that's not accounting for any other costs on the trailer (wear, tags, having to store the drat thing).
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Jan 4, 2016 20:57
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The HF trailers bearings poo poo themselves quickly under use and in wet regions too.
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Jan 5, 2016 00:39
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bolind posted:Just gotta flaunt these hella nice Wera wrenches that Cakefool Secret Santa'ed me: I love colour coded stuff, after a while it's instinct and saves you so much time finding the right one. Funnily doing I don't yet own any of my own but anything that breaks is getting replaced with this stuff. I would love to be able to get hold of anything like the HF trailer in the UK for a reasonable price, I ended up spending nearly £200 all told to buy and rebuild a little 4'x2'6" trailer a couple of years back.
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Jan 5, 2016 11:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:What do you need it for / how often do you need it? Even at HF prices to buy a trailer, it takes a lot of $15/day trailer rentals from UHaul to break even, and that's not accounting for any other costs on the trailer (wear, tags, having to store the drat thing). This is true. I didn't consider renting a trailer. I was considering either a trailer or a beater pickup. Owning mainly for convenience sake of the 3 or 4 times a year I'd use it. I just bought a new house and its annoying to try to rig things on top of my Subaru, or to disassemble things to put them inside.
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Jan 5, 2016 19:39
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Cakefool posted:
I color code a few sizes of sockets and wrenches with paint pens. I have to re-apply it every few months though - it wears off. I use the system that Sheldon Brown's bicycle shop uses - http://www.sheldonbrown.com/colorcode.html
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Jan 5, 2016 20:54
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FogHelmut posted:This is true. I didn't consider renting a trailer. I was considering either a trailer or a beater pickup. Owning mainly for convenience sake of the 3 or 4 times a year I'd use it. I just bought a new house and its annoying to try to rig things on top of my Subaru, or to disassemble things to put them inside. Try renting one once, see how well it works in your area. Where I'm at there's at least five different UHaul pickups within five miles, including one less than a mile away (that unfortunately rarely has trailers on hand). Yes, they're beat to poo poo, but I think I'd still prefer them in most situations over a HF trailer. No mileage charges on trailers. About the only thing it doesn't work well for is if you can't plan the need for it in advance at all, but that's something that really isn't that hard to deal with. I went from having a beater truck I could haul anything in the back of on a moment's notice to pulling UHauls with my WJ and it hasn't been a problem at all. 0toShifty posted:I color code a few sizes of sockets and wrenches with paint pens. I have to re-apply it every few months though - it wears off. That is a genius system, but yeah you'd have to use paint pens to do it with sockets (especially small ones).
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Jan 5, 2016 21:24
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0toShifty posted:I color code a few sizes of sockets and wrenches with paint pens. I have to re-apply it every few months though - it wears off. That would drive me crazy because it doesn't line up with resistor color codes at all.
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Jan 5, 2016 21:46
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Cakefool posted:I love colour coded stuff, after a while it's instinct and saves you so much time finding the right one. Funnily doing I don't yet own any of my own but anything that breaks is getting replaced with this stuff. Problem is, that as a Brit, you'll need imperial, metric and whitworth and there just aren't enough colours for all of them Take out a Landy gearbox and you'll need your red, mauve, puce, taupe and white with a hint of apple blossom spanners.
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Jan 5, 2016 22:38
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FogHelmut posted:This is true. I didn't consider renting a trailer. I was considering either a trailer or a beater pickup. Owning mainly for convenience sake of the 3 or 4 times a year I'd use it. I just bought a new house and its annoying to try to rig things on top of my Subaru, or to disassemble things to put them inside. +1 for the beater truck  Depending on where you live and if the truck is old enough (eg >25 years) you can register it as a historic vehicle, which means you never have to pay annual registration again! Slight technicality being you can only *legally* drive it in parades and club events, but that seems like kind of a fudgible/unenforceable thing if it's not your daily driver. You could always argue that you're taking it to the hardware store's shopper club after all... Also, I dunno where y'all are getting 15$ trailer rental prices, but last time I got a trailer from Uhaul, it set me back 60$ by the time everything was said and done.
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Jan 5, 2016 22:51
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OSU_Matthew posted:Also, I dunno where y'all are getting 15$ trailer rental prices, but last time I got a trailer from Uhaul, it set me back 60$ by the time everything was said and done. Home Depot is my go-to for trailer rental. In the Chicago market, the 3'x5' is $20 for a day, and the 5'x8' is $34. They're cheaper if you come in under 4 hours, too.
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Jan 5, 2016 23:27
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OSU_Matthew posted:Also, I dunno where y'all are getting 15$ trailer rental prices, but last time I got a trailer from Uhaul, it set me back 60$ by the time everything was said and done.  I've never been dinged more than a couple bucks in taxes on 'em either, so it usually ends up at something like $16.50 actually on my card.
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Jan 6, 2016 00:04
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