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Pukestain Pal posted:I've always just used water for a stop bath. Am I an idiot? I don't know you well enough to pass that judgement, but using water for a stop bath is fine.
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Dec 15, 2015 20:33
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My guess is that it's probably more important to use a stop if you're using a fairly concentrated developer, as opposed to the dilute Rodinal solutions I use.
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Dec 15, 2015 21:13
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Spedman posted:My guess is that it's probably more important to use a stop if you're using a fairly concentrated developer, as opposed to the dilute Rodinal solutions I use. Yeah anything with shorter dev times will have more of an effect when you stop it quickly.
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Dec 15, 2015 22:57
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Pukestain Pal posted:I've always just used water for a stop bath. Am I an idiot? not because of that  (no)
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Dec 16, 2015 00:27
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 Heavy Holiday Delivery by Matt Blackmon, on Flickr
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Dec 18, 2015 04:39
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Cool. I like an XA2, but I need to disassemble mine and fix the electrical contacts on the bottom of the shutter button so I can get the hair-trigger sensitivity again.
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Dec 18, 2015 04:58
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Yeah its one of my favorite cameras for sure. Its usually sharp, quiet, and easy to pop in my pocket. I got really lucky when I got mine to get the case, manuals, and flash with it.
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Dec 18, 2015 05:03
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Just finished putting a 4th roll of film (2nd roll of Portra 400, second C-41 home development) though my Kiev-60. Two things: 1.) I tried just spinning the reel inside my development tank rather than inverting (last time the lid didn't seal well and I got blix all over my hands), but it caused some gnarly color casts. 2.) Cropping to 645 because I suddenly have these dark corners as you can see in the third image. I'm thinking this is a shutter problem, but I'm going to flock the mirror box anyway. Anyone have guess what exactly is causing these dark corners?    Problem Demonstration by S M, on Flickr
SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Dec 21, 2015 |
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Dec 20, 2015 03:10
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 Untitled by Phillip Chicola, on Flickr Untitled by Phillip Chicola, on Flickr
Tony Two Bapes fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Dec 20, 2015 |
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Dec 20, 2015 17:18
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Tony Two Bapes posted:
This rocks.
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Dec 21, 2015 00:14
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I'm not so scared of developing C-41 myself anymore. My first try didn't go so well a few months ago. This time around I got really OCD about temperatures, and it came out great! Pickin' by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickr
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Dec 21, 2015 15:05
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Pukestain Pal posted:I'm not so scared of developing C-41 myself anymore. My first try didn't go so well a few months ago. This time around I got really OCD about temperatures, and it came out great! What temperature are you guys using to develop? Are you going with 85 degrees or 102-110? I have black and white down for the most part and I have a unicolor c41 kit and a pile of color waiting for me. Any other tips that you guys could throw my way other than for the love of god don't spill the blix...
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Dec 21, 2015 16:16
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Minkee posted:What temperature are you guys using to develop? Are you going with 85 degrees or 102-110? I have black and white down for the most part and I have a unicolor c41 kit and a pile of color waiting for me. Any other tips that you guys could throw my way other than for the love of god don't spill the blix... 102. Basically I used a big stainless steel pot and put in 110 degree water into it and let the chemicals soak. That got them pretty close. Add hot water as need. Through the process, if temps started going down, I'd take a big measuring glass full of "old" water out, and replaced it with hot water. Seemed to work pretty well.
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Dec 21, 2015 16:25
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I had good results with my first c41 dev about a week ago with 35mm ektar 100, but my last two attempted devs of 120 portra 400 have come out with blotches of magenta and green cast. I was really careful with the second portra roll (used a digital thermometer and was very exact with my times) so now I think that I probably just didn't use enough developer. Do you reuse your developer? I'm a little suspicious of it, because when freshly mixed it looked like piss (normal) and came out of the tank looking like.. bloody piss. I do presoak the film in the same tank and the waste water from that looks inky so I think it must be something that comes off the film and whats left over mixes with the developer. But it's probably still OK to reuse, right?
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Dec 22, 2015 21:50
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It absolutely is okay to reuse the developer, but you need to compensate for how many rolls you've put through the chemicals. The instructions should say you need to add X amount of time for each successive roll, where the greater the ISO of the film the longer you'll need to develop the next roll, as the high iso films exhaust the chemicals at a greater rate.
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Dec 22, 2015 22:01
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It's normal for the developer to become severely discolored even after the first roll. And the color of your pre-wash also depends on the film you're using. Some pre-wash water comes out dark green where others are almost clear.  Spedman posted:the greater the ISO of the film the longer you'll need to develop the next roll, as the high iso films exhaust the chemicals at a greater rate. the tetenal c-41 kit makes no mention of this. Is this specific to only certain kits?
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Dec 22, 2015 22:06
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No, its standard across the process, also applies to E-6. They probably don't mention it because I think most people would be shooting 100/200 speed film most of the time, rather than 400/800/1600 colour film.
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Dec 22, 2015 23:40
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I shot my first roll of film, Kodak Ultra Max 400 Film (Blue/Yellow), on a Olympus Trip XB3. I then took that film and developed it using caffenol. All the shots are way too dark. If I shine a flashlight through the back I can just barely make out the details so I know I didn't royal gently caress up the process. There might be too many unknown variables in this problem but I figure I'd ask here for how I can prepare better for my next time developing?
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Dec 24, 2015 21:13
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huhu posted:I shot my first roll of film, Kodak Ultra Max 400 Film (Blue/Yellow), on a Olympus Trip XB3. I then took that film and developed it using caffenol. All the shots are way too dark. If I shine a flashlight through the back I can just barely make out the details so I know I didn't royal gently caress up the process. There might be too many unknown variables in this problem but I figure I'd ask here for how I can prepare better for my next time developing?  You developed c-41 film in a gimmick process and you're surprised the results were garbage?
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Dec 24, 2015 21:48
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ansel autisms posted:
https://www.flickr.com/groups/33051635@N00/pool/ Don't look like bad photos to me.
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Dec 24, 2015 21:50
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Anyone have experience / thoughts on Cinestill film? It's pricey and the results on Flickr look pretty mixed.
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Dec 24, 2015 21:57
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huhu posted:I shot my first roll of film, Kodak Ultra Max 400 Film (Blue/Yellow), on a Olympus Trip XB3. I then took that film and developed it using caffenol. All the shots are way too dark. If I shine a flashlight through the back I can just barely make out the details so I know I didn't royal gently caress up the process. There might be too many unknown variables in this problem but I figure I'd ask here for how I can prepare better for my next time developing? Buy some Rodinal and Arista .EDU B&W from Freestyle, do stand dev. Then if it's still bad it's probably your camera. Or you.
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Dec 24, 2015 22:21
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Thoogsby posted:Anyone have experience / thoughts on Cinestill film? It's pricey and the results on Flickr look pretty mixed. It's Vision T film, which Portra is based off of. They strip the anti-halation layer that normally prevents you from processing it C-41 which gives huge flare/haloing around anything red. huhu posted:https://www.flickr.com/groups/33051635@N00/pool/ How many of those are C-41? bellows lugosi fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Dec 25, 2015 |
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Dec 24, 2015 22:36
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huhu posted:https://www.flickr.com/groups/33051635@N00/pool/ Caffenol is for black and white film. You used it on color (C-41 process) which is why it didn't work. If you want to use caffenol you need to buy black and white Kodak film (t-max for example) or ilford (delta or hp5).
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Dec 25, 2015 00:50
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I've done c-41 in Rodinal when testing a camera and only had cheap non-name brand film. It required fairly high concentration and a long development time from memory, I wouldn't recommend it. The C-41 based black and white films do okay though.
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Dec 26, 2015 08:17
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Developing E-6 for the first time tonight. Wish me luck.
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Dec 30, 2015 01:08
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I found a TLR on the side of the road. I think it's water-damaged and the focus doesn't turn at all. Is there a graceful way to unstick it, or should I just use pliers?
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Dec 30, 2015 02:23
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loaf posted:I found a TLR on the side of the road. lol what?
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Dec 30, 2015 03:20
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. wrong thread
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Dec 30, 2015 03:29
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Roadside TLR owns, don't use loving pliers, try some oil. Got two 5-roll packs of Portra 400 for Xmas and I can't wait to dev some of this poo poo.
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Dec 30, 2015 05:28
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Success with E-6 dev.  Chi by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickr
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Dec 30, 2015 05:32
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BANME.sh posted:Caffenol is for black and white film. You used it on color (C-41 process) which is why it didn't work. Caffenol works for color film too it just converts it to black and white. I will be getting some B&W film next though. Here is a shot with a flashlight to light it up, is this how it should be? (The photo is of stockings over the fireplace)  DSC02098 by Esa Foto, on Flickr
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Dec 30, 2015 06:07
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akadajet posted:lol what? It was dumped on the street alongside an M-mount Zeiss 50mm f/2.8, also pretty gummed up. I worked the focus free with methanol, but there's no film cage so I probably won't get to find what else is wrong with this thing. I've never used a TLR but this offset at close focus doesn't look right: 
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Dec 30, 2015 09:00
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This morning I dreamed I was at a church rummage sale when I spotted a couple ultra-rare variants of the Olympus XA. One was like a shorter and wider variant (the "XA Arrow") done up in a neo-Art Deco styling with a contrasting chrome chevron/triangle on the door. It had a fully aspheric 2-element 35mm f/3.3 lens (  ) that was like a predecessor of the Stylus Epic's lens or something. It had a huge rangefinder with a bitchin laser-blue rangefinder patch, and came with the A16 (which was great since so far I only have A11s).The other one was like a funky ultrawide dealie, with a front with 2 very wide doors on it that slid all the way outwards and a bulbous superwide lens inside so that you could shoot panoramic wide-angle. Like a Horizon or an XPAN crammed inside a 4" wide XA shell. I think it might have been swing lens or have a circular film path like the Horizon or something, I dunno.  I am super disappointed that neither of those actually exist. I googled just to be sure. 
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Dec 31, 2015 |
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Dec 31, 2015 07:16
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Cool dream bro. (But really those would be pretty neat. The XA has been around for decades now, it could use a refresh ) I've haven't had the opportunity to do anything with my MF camera lately, but I've been shooting with a 35mm and practicing my home development (C-41 and B&W) process, and scanning some old negatives: TMAX 400  Expired Kodak 400 color film (it's a yellow cassette, is that 'Kodak Gold'?)  Fuji Natura 1600 (Used most of this roll at my work's holiday party, but here's something I took afterwards to use up the last exposure)  All of these were processed and scanned by me. I'm still working on my color correction. The Natura is kind of hard to wrangle, and the expired color film is of course going to be a little weird no matter what. The Natura shot was much bluer when I initially set the white/grey/black points. It looked really cool, but I believe it would have been more yellow in real life so I tried to dial it down. Anything else look especially weird to an experienced eye? (Besides the obvious clone stamping to remove dust?) SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 03:16
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Expired Kodak 400 color film (it's a yellow cassette, is that 'Kodak Gold'?) Most likely. That's basically been the only thing Kodak has sold in forever now. EDIT: aside from Portra. It's now been rebranded to some other name but near as I can tell it's still basically what Gold always was. DJExile fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 05:17
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Could also be ultramax.
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Jan 3, 2016 05:57
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Wild EEPROM posted:Could also be ultramax. Which is also known as Kodak Gold...
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Jan 3, 2016 08:31
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MrBlandAverage posted:Which is also known as Kodak Gold... At least for me they're similar but not same, the reds are very different between Kodak Ultramax and Gold. I like the Kodak Gold 400 reds much better.
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Jan 4, 2016 04:11
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VomitOnLino posted:At least for me they're similar but not same, the reds are very different between Kodak Ultramax and Gold. Gold 400 was rebranded as Ultramax. There's only Gold 200 and Ultramax 400 now (there used to be Gold 100 and Ultramax 800). http://www.kodak.com/ek/US/en/NewCo_About_Top/Consumer_Products_Services/Consumer_Films.htm You know how Ultramax 400 has the GC code? Gold 200 is GB.
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Jan 4, 2016 07:50
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