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/\/\/\ Nice shots - very realistic model ships!  im gay posted:That sounds good, thank you both for the help. She is definitely interested in photography and she has just started reading Understanding Exposure so I think it's something she will continue doing for awhile.
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Nov 29, 2015 03:45
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ExecuDork posted:/\/\/\ Nice shots - very realistic model ships! Haha.. 1:1 scale too! Here, have a somewhat less realistic model ship. Also shot with the 18-55 kit lens:  
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Nov 29, 2015 07:42
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So I edit videos as a hobby, and I want to be able to shoot my own video to build a portfolio so I can do it on the side and get some money. I want a DSLR that can do video - if I buy used, what's a good model and how much can I expect to pay for it? I also go to lots of conventions and I wanna be able to photograph stuff, so that's why I want a dual function camera instead of just a camcorder. I have some birthday money saved up, so hopefully I can afford it and a basic lens or three.
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Nov 29, 2015 22:51
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It really depends on how much you want to spend. Make sure that they have a mic jack for external microphones. If you're on a budget a aps-c / m43 mirrorless would probably be your best bet (but as I said, make sure they have a mic in. The Sony a6000 for example doesn't have one. There is a hotshoe adapter but that is kind of a pain in the rear end to use).
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Nov 29, 2015 23:41
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Just to toss it out there and get things started, I can recommend the Pentax K-5. You can plug in an external mic, and you could pick up a 2-lens kit to get started for around $500-$600 or less. Lenses covering any budget from couch-cushion-scroungings up to more-than-my-car are readily available.
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Nov 29, 2015 23:59
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Yeah I know that onboard sound is generally garbage. I hear good things about Canon, is there a good DSLR model for my purposes that's now a little older and can be found used for cheaper? I'll definitely investigate the Pentax too.
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Nov 30, 2015 03:10
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Canon is a very solid choice. It also has the advantage that you can use Magic Lantern, a hacked firmware that adds a ton of features that are very useful for filming (focus peaking, zebras, audio monitoring, variable bitrates, shooting in raw etc). The Rebels are quiet decent for what they cost (a used T4i/T5i shouldn't be too expensive). If you stretch your budget you might be able to find a used 70D or maybe even a 5D Mark II in decent shape (It's a 6 year old camera but it can still shoot great looking video). Don't forget that you will also need lenses which can be really expensive, especially if you have a full frame body. Canon has a few cheap primes in their lineup that will you help to get started (24/40 mm 2.8 pancake, 50mm 1.8 and the 18-55mm STM is decent if you want to use the auto focus during filming). You can also get an adapter for old M42 lenses. These lenses are often really cheap but they don't offer auto focus, that's not a huge problem though if you use Magic Lantern's focus peaking. There are probably people here who can give you better advice but I hope this helps you to get an overview  .
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Nov 30, 2015 10:15
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Which DSLR matters significantly less than people think. I also shoot Canon gear, but one upsetting thing is that Canon and Nikon both severely limit their cameras by software to try to artificially identify markets beyond physical construction charastistics or composition. This is dumb. The reason Sony is making headway is because they are not doing this. The downside is they have problems, like the 4K video overheating on the a7R II. The fact that the third party Magic Lantern firmware on Canon provides things on Canon's camera that are largely supported by hardware and just flipped on, really sets the tone of how committed Canon is to selling you JUST ENOUGH camera to make you buy one rather than anything resembling their best effort. With that said the lens selection Canon provides and the huge third party EF lens selection pretty much makes it the best bet still. The trades their sensors make work well in most professional settings and they have very consistent image sensor color behavior across their entire lineup, which is also true of Nikon but not as true of Sony.
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Nov 30, 2015 10:36
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windex posted:Which DSLR matters significantly less than people think. I also shoot Canon gear, but one upsetting thing is that Canon and Nikon both severely limit their cameras by software to try to artificially identify markets beyond physical construction charastistics or composition. This is dumb. Yeah it is frustrating, even back years ago you could unlock features on things like MiniDisc players with a bit of firmware trickery. Aren't some of the video limitations implemented due to tax reasons as well?
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Nov 30, 2015 12:37
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EL BROMANCE posted:Yeah it is frustrating, even back years ago you could unlock features on things like MiniDisc players with a bit of firmware trickery. Aren't some of the video limitations implemented due to tax reasons as well? Yeah the record time limits are implemented on DSLRs based on some arbitrary classification of something being a still or video camera. I think it's 15 or 30 minutes?
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Nov 30, 2015 14:41
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Thoogsby posted:Yeah the record time limits are implemented on DSLRs based on some arbitrary classification of something being a still or video camera. I think it's 15 or 30 minutes?
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Nov 30, 2015 20:12
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Either way you can override it with Magic Lantern if need be, still a super weird and outdated configuration.
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Nov 30, 2015 20:25
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Most people don't need more than a few minutes of 1080p video at a time anyway. If you have sufficiently specific needs to need more than 30min of video you should be able to install magic lantern. The main application of permanently recording cameras is, like, CCTV I guess?
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Dec 1, 2015 01:44
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I CANNOT EJACULATE WITHOUT SEEING NATIVE AMERICANS BRUTALISED!
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I use cheap-ish camcorders for wildlife research. We might want to record 1080i or 1080p for one or more hours of behavioral interactions. Our cameras record continuously but still have the file size limit, although the limit is less evident because the camera automatically makes a file structure and metafiles to allow continuous playback.
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Dec 1, 2015 01:55
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I know this is the DSLR thread, but if you want high quality video above all and don't want to shell out for a full frame body then Panasonic's latest offerings are probably your best bet. The G7 does 4K and can be had for around $800 new. I think the non-4k capable models like the gh3 and gx7 still produce pretty high quality video. I've got a 5Dmkii and while I am still impressed with the quality of its video (and especially the nice color it produces straight out of the camera, making videography simple) I think you could do better than spending the money on one when the equivalent amount will net you something much newer that does 4k internally.
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Dec 1, 2015 02:52
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I don't think I need 4k video as a relative newbie to the actual camera side of videography, 1080p should be good to start with. I also want the ability to take good still photos.
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Dec 1, 2015 06:51
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A used GH 3 would probably be a great fit for you (the GX 7 doesn't have a mic in if my memory isn't wrong).
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Dec 1, 2015 17:19
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Nuclear Pogostick posted:I don't think I need 4k video as a relative newbie to the actual camera side of videography, 1080p should be good to start with. I also want the ability to take good still photos. I used to feel the same way re: HD vs 4k, but 4k really does look better than native HD, when downscaled to an equivalent resolution. And Panasonic cameras take great still photos, it's just that every camera needs an advertising hook and for the Lumix system it's video.
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Dec 2, 2015 02:25
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Not sure if I posted in here before or not, but I wanna finally get serious about photography rather than just dicking around with my phone camera, so I need some advice. I have a starting budget of $3,000 right now and I'm torn between going for a dSLR or a mirrorless (I know this is a dSLR thread, but still). I'm mostly interested in doing portraits and street photography (with the occasional video here and there) for now and I know for a fact I'll be working in low light environments at least half the time. I've tried doing a lot of research on my own, but I'm worried that I don't actually know as much as I think I do. Any suggestions on what I should be looking for?
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Dec 8, 2015 05:23
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COME AT ME GHOST posted:Not sure if I posted in here before or not, but I wanna finally get serious about photography rather than just dicking around with my phone camera, so I need some advice. My recommendation at this stage would be for you to put $2400 of those dollars in the freezer until you have a slight idea what you want and why you want it. Then take the other $600 and buy a Canon 5D (original) and a EF 50mm 1.8. Use the poo poo out of that (in manual mode) until you can answer the above questions.
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Dec 8, 2015 05:32
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Mightaswell posted:My recommendation at this stage would be for you to put $2400 of those dollars in the freezer until you have a slight idea what you want and why you want it. http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Speedlite-Panasonic-Fujifilm-single-contact/dp/B004LEAYXY/ and some sort of cheap diffuser like this http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-20x15cm-Translucent-Softbox-Flashes/dp/B00ENSKUUK/ and figure out what what you want in a flash at the same time. If you are going to be shooting indoors very much, your flash(es) will be a big deal. All manufacturers now share an ISO-standard hotshoe for holding the flash and telling it when to fire, but automatic modes like ADI and eTTL (which allow the flash to fire a pre-flash, determine how much of that light it got back vs. how much it was expecting to get back, and then fire the flash at the appropriate power once the imaging sensor is exposed) will be manufacturer-specific.
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Dec 8, 2015 06:07
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Seconding the put-most-of-the-cash-away. Then: 1. GO TO A CAMERA STORE (or Best Buy or whatever), and pick up and play with ALL of the cameras. Bug the salespeople. Spend at least an hour in the store, with a camera in your hands. 2. You will find a camera you like, you will find a camera you think you love, and you'll find a camera you hate. Write down the name of the camera you hate, forget about the others. That brand is now completely off the table. 3. Sleep on it. 4. Figure out the camera you liked and the camera you loved, ask yourself if you still like / love them. Look them up, find a deal, buy. 5. Shoot. Shoot more. Shoot shoot shoot. Shoot just fuckin' everything. 6. Spend the rest of the money on whatever it is that will make the photos you really, really want to take that much better. Might be a lens (or two), might be lighting equipment, or it might be plane tickets and hotel costs in that place you've always wanted to visit. 7. Be happy (-ish)
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Dec 8, 2015 15:28
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Mightaswell posted:Then take the other $600 and buy a Canon 5D (original) and a EF 50mm 1.8. Use the poo poo out of that (in manual mode) until you can answer the above questions. I'm not the biggest fan of DigitalRev, but coincidentally they just put up a video comparing a 5D to a 5D III, and I can see he's using what I imagine is that 50mm 1.8 you're talking about. Might be useful for COME AT ME GHOST to watch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqVBWTVgr8Q
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Dec 8, 2015 17:17
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What happens when a camera "dies"? It seems like has something to do with the shutter? Can parts be fixed/replaced?
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Dec 21, 2015 04:37
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im gay posted:What happens when a camera "dies"? It seems like has something to do with the shutter? Can parts be fixed/replaced? It depends on what died. See, the shutter fails most often, but other things can go wrong. The shutter is just a huge mechanical part. Most DSLRs can be fixed but for "pro" cameras once you've hit past 150k on the shutter it has more than paid for itself and buying a new one makes more sense to me. Under 100k, and I'd repair it for sure. Everybody has their own mental cost benefit equations. On the other side of that I don't expect APS-C or smaller sensor cameras to live as long and would write those down generally to "buy a new one" at 50k and "fix" under 25k shutters. If it dies between those points it just depends on cost to replace vs cost to repair.
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Dec 21, 2015 05:36
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The shutter is the largest and most likely wear part. It's also not the end of the world to replace.
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Dec 21, 2015 11:25
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im gay posted:What happens when a camera "dies"? It goes to camera heaven.
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Dec 21, 2015 14:34
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windex posted:It depends on what died. See, the shutter fails most often, but other things can go wrong. The shutter is just a huge mechanical part. replacing the shutter (in a canon at least) is like a 300$ charge. so unless you own a rebel, it's usually worth it
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Dec 21, 2015 15:21
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akadajet posted:It goes to camera heaven. Yours, maybe. Mine's going to hell. Too many sins.
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Dec 21, 2015 21:57
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Looking for a camera at the $800 CAD range. BestBuy Canada has me interested in two for Boxing Week: Sony A6000 and the Nikon D5300, each complete with extra lens and kit, and both priced at 799.99 CAD. As much as I want to go with the A6000, the general consensus I've seen is that the A6000 is more restrictive due to fewer lens options available, or at least lens options that are affordable compared to Nikon. The other strike against the A6000 is that I intend to shoot a good deal of video, and Sony's line of mirrorless cameras to date are known for overheating and having short battery life. Given these considerations, would it make more sense to go with the D5300, or am I overlooking something from the A6000 that makes it a better value pick over the D5300?
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Dec 25, 2015 23:58
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Battery life isn't an issue. Batteries are dirt cheap to buy and easy to pop in on Sony. Overheating isn't common afaik. If you want to do video get a video camera?
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Dec 26, 2015 00:04
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M. Propagandalf posted:Looking for a camera at the $800 CAD range. BestBuy Canada has me interested in two for Boxing Week: Sony A6000 and the Nikon D5300, each complete with extra lens and kit, and both priced at 799.99 CAD. Depends what you mean by "fewer lens options". On one hand, yes, there are less native e-mount autofocus lenses available than f-mount. On the other hand, the a6000 with adapters gives you access to a literally limitless supply of cheap manual focus film camera lenses from any system ever. *edit* and my personal experience with trying to make my SLR do double duty as the family camcorder says to just buy a camcorder or use your phone. But if you're interested in more creative video again I recommend the Sony for the lenses and flexibility available to you. I don't think the Nikon even lets you change aperture during video. I love Nikon FX SLRs, but my current opinion is, starting from scratch, go mirrorless for crop sensor cameras. (Except for some specific cases) Mightaswell fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Dec 26, 2015 |
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Dec 26, 2015 00:54
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Yeah the A6000 is pretty handy in a lot of respects. Just don't buy one if you are into taking photos of birds, sports, or other applications requiring a long-distance telephoto lens, as the selection of AF-capable, stabilized, fast telephoto lenses, as there aren't any. Adapting lenses is fun and there are some great deals to be had, but they're all manual focus. There's a Sony-made adapter that lets you mount A-mount (Sony DSLR) lenses on Sony mirrorless cameras and it has full autofocus, but none of the lenses are stabilized and the pellicle mirror inside the adaptor blocks about 1/3rd a stop of light from reaching the sensor, so it's far from an optimal situation. Sony does make a pretty sweet 18-105mm f/4 superzoom that's sharp, really good for video, and pretty cheap if you do end up going that route.
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Dec 27, 2015 19:41
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I have an older colleague (who is in what she calls "revenge non-retirement") who is about to travel to a third-world country to do an experiment where she will need to get detailed photos and videos of mouse faces as they fight (in an environment with no humans perceptibly present). She bought a Canon 5DSR and 24-105mm L lens before we were introduced, but hasn't gotten beyond P-mode yet. I have given her a crash-course in DSLR photography and video with her 5DSR, but she has asked me for recommendations for books to help her learn after she leaves. What are the recommended books on those topics?
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Dec 30, 2015 02:50
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I liked the David Busch series as an extended manual. I don't think there's a version for the 5Ds, but maybe the one for the 5d3 would work well enough. It explains all the settings and options a lot better than the regular manual, including what the impact will be on the eventual photo. Probably any of the third party extended manuals would be useful.
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Dec 30, 2015 03:03
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Mouse faces? A 70-200 or a long macro might also be useful.
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Jan 2, 2016 10:31
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BetterLekNextTime posted:I liked the David Busch series as an extended manual. I don't think there's a version for the 5Ds, but maybe the one for the 5d3 would work well enough. It explains all the settings and options a lot better than the regular manual, including what the impact will be on the eventual photo. blowfish posted:Mouse faces? A 70-200 or a long macro might also be useful.
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Jan 3, 2016 06:51
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My friend just dumped me his old EOS 450D and a kit lens.  I've always been kinda-sorta interested in photography, so I guess it's time to put this thing on manual and take a million terrible shots. 
Siivola fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 13:10
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Nomenclature posted:Thanks, I'll look into them. Do lights affect mouse fight behavior? You can fix the 6400 ISO problem with some lights.
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Jan 3, 2016 14:58
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Nomenclature posted:Thanks, I'll look into them. Not sure how your friend plans to shoot , but once you're past 1600 or 3200 , turning it up in camera vs just pushing it in raw will result in the same noise anyway (with canon sensors. With sonys it starts at base ISO like that) But if she needs high auto ISO then yeah, SOL
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Jan 3, 2016 17:34
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