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Nope, for whatever reason that car depreciates like a lead plated rock.
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Dec 29, 2015 07:03
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the spyder posted:So I've been drooling over a 2015.5 Volvo XC60 R-Design in Ocean Blue. It's more then I should spend, but it's got everything I want. Anyone own/have feedback on one? For some reason I've always liked the v50/60 and XC60 and keep coming across them. Thanks! The fuel economy is really the only negative to my V60; the T5 AWD only gets about 11.2 l/100 (21 mpg) in the city. It approaches 8 l/100 (30 mpg) on the highway. The diesel got something retarded like 45 mpg, but that was a LOT of highway driving. It's also not available in North America  Really, the only reason I didn't get the Drive-E engine was that it doesn't come with AWD, which is really handy to have when you have snow on the ground seven months a year.The interior is essentially identical between the two (there's a bit more space in the back in the SUV, but really not all that much more). It's very well-designed, and I really like that there's actual, physical buttons on the dash. The seats are the best seats in the world. I've had zero reliability problems in the first year/10,000 km of ownership, and that includes going through a winter with three feet of snow and -35 temps. I prefer the V60 just because it's got better driving dynamics, and it's the best car I've ever owned. Still, if I was in the market for an SUV I'd be looking closely at the XC60. I'm hoping my wife's ancient Hyundai holds on until the next-gen XC60 comes out.
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Dec 29, 2015 07:04
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What are some common things I need to be aware of when shopping for a used S60 R (first gen)? Are there other models around that performance level that can be found for $5k-$8k?
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Dec 29, 2015 16:34
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FreelanceSocialist posted:What are some common things I need to be aware of when shopping for a used S60 R (first gen)? Are there other models around that performance level that can be found for $5k-$8k? Closest competition would be an Audi S4 or BMW 335i, both of which will be more expensive to buy and much more expensive to own. Both are faster and the 335i handles better, but the potential repaur costs scared me away from them. If you get the R, go manual. The autos are problematic. The manual has some issues of its own such as slave cylinder failures and a higher occurrence rate of angle gear and angle gear collar failures (probably because of people driving like idiots) but they're cheaper than valve body problems. Go to the swedespeed forums and do some research there. Tons of info on common problems.
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Dec 29, 2015 17:15
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FreelanceSocialist posted:What are some common things I need to be aware of when shopping for a used S60 R (first gen)? Are there other models around that performance level that can be found for $5k-$8k? Also check the last page, someone else just asked this too.
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Dec 29, 2015 19:04
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LloydDobler posted:Also check the last page, someone else just asked this too. Ended up not being able to see the car unfortunately. Still looking at volvos though. http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/ctd/5359925022.html Going to hopefully look at this. I want to find out about the maintenance history and look for rust. Hopefully this one will be decent even though the miles are a little higher than I'd like. Edit: Bought this. I figure it needs a bunch of little things (brake light bulb, washer fluid, reset window auto up/down position, fuckery with the passenger door lock, brakes, and some maintenance stuff) but I'm pretty happy with the car. Seems like it has a cool history which looks like it was owned by a military dude and possibly taken overseas. Not a spec of rust under it which is crazy for a Michigan car. Pretty pumped to start working on it and getting it up to DD status. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Dec 31, 2015 |
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Dec 30, 2015 21:00
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Volvos are galvanized so they tend to take a lot longer to succumb to the salt than most cars. What did you buy? The ad was taken down.
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Dec 31, 2015 18:21
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I don't have a good pic of it yet but I did screen shot the ad.  Got it out the door for about 5k which may be a bit high (?) but I'm pretty happy with the car. Looks like it spent some time in Germany and then Arizona, and later it came to Michigan. Interesting history, previous owner left a bunch of the purchase documents in there and some of the shipping forms which are mostly in German. Kinda neat to see all that and piece together the history of it. Because it wasn't living in the midwest forever, the suspension and everything has no rust on it at all. My 2013 car has way way more rust than this car. It needs a little work to get to 100% though. List to so far: Windshield Brake pads and rotors all around Timing belt check/replacement w/water pump PCV fixes though I don't have any symptoms that I know of or CELs (hose by oil cap is cracked) Fluid flushes Passenger door lock doesn't lock or unlock with the FOB but I hear some motor moving in there (Door lock actuator?) Driver's side tail light bulb polish headlights detail snow tires on another set of wheels ambient air temp sensor in cluster reading very low, like -35 F aaaaaaaaaaand whatever else I find once I start working on it. I might wait on the PCV stuff since it looks like ~$300 to fix properly (any cheaper kits out there vs. IPD?).
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Dec 31, 2015 21:34
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the spyder posted:So I've been drooling over a 2015.5 Volvo XC60 R-Design in Ocean Blue. It's more then I should spend, but it's got everything I want. Anyone own/have feedback on one? For some reason I've always liked the v50/60 and XC60 and keep coming across them. Thanks! I purchased a used 2012 XC60 with about 50kmi on the clock just a couple of months ago, so I haven't been able to put it through its paces in the winter proper yet. This replaced a Saturn ION, which replaced a Grand Marquis, which replaced my Mazdaspeed6. I can't answer too many Volvo comparison questions about this vehicle. My comments on this vehicle thus far: The quality of the vehicle is pretty good, superior to the ION obviously, which isn't very hard. It actually feels a lot like driving the Grand Marquis did, with stiffer bolstered seats instead of a couch, and a worse turning radius somehow. Seriously, it turns like a bus or van. Power wise it is not as exciting as the Mazdaspeed6 felt to me, not as quick, but it does weigh more and does not have a manual. The Aisin 6 speed is a little jumpy, and there have been a couple of software updates on this. I don't believe any of the updates from Volvo are optional, they just pump the latest whatever into your car if you go for service. I guess I would say you learn to drive the car, and how it will respond to your throttle position, as to if it will downshift aggressively and hang there, or not, if you just want to scoot around someone. There is the common A/C compressor growl, that is worrisome at first until you hear that it just happens sometimes. There is also a couple of rattles in the door panels that can be solved with a minimum of effort. Other than not having any idea how to set partial defroster and not maximum or none, it is a pretty nice vehicle. Roomy enough for passengers and cargo. It has the booster seats, but I don't have kids. I would rather have had rear heated seats for guests. I got into this vehicle as I had been putting new suspension parts on my ION like they were going out of style, and my A/C was acting up. I was ready for something new with a bit more room and power, and everyone is shopping crossovers and small SUVs now. The pricepoint on a decently equipped Ford Escape, Nissan Rogue, or Rav4 puts them in more or less the same price point new as this was used. I'm gambling a bit on the Volvo's reliability and maintenance costs. The Escape was not inspiring at all and everyone seems to have one nowadays. The build quality on some of the others, including the driveline, seems questionable. The P3 T6 seems to be relatively reliable. Some users have had issues with oil consumption , which is a thing that Volvo has to address. The transmission and Haldex seem to be pretty reliable as well at least out of the gate, but there are not many high milage XC60s out there to comment on. The gas milage it gets is also not particularly great. I average about 17.5/18 with my short commutes and stop-and-go. On the highway, when I am on the highway, it seems to be closer to 21/22. This is on 91 Octane gas. I had initially wanted the XC70 for the versatility of the cargo room and better rear leg room, but, as the chips fell,, this is where I am.
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Dec 31, 2015 22:11
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If it's any consolation the XC60 is the best looking crossover out there and the 70 is one of the worst.
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Jan 1, 2016 10:00
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Welp, I am now the owner of a 1989 Volvo 240 wagon. The paint's kinda hosed up and the window trim has faded, but the previous owner replaced a lot of stuff so mechanically it's in excellent shape (I had a third party volvo specialist verify that everything was cool for a little bit of money, worth it for peace of mind IMO). It runs pretty solid and for a car its age it's got a fairly smooth and quiet ride. My one gripe about it is that it accelerates like a manatee on chloroform. I mean, I'm no hooner, I just drive a couple miles to my college most days, but it's a little annoying to floor it on the onramp to the highway and still be only going 45mph by the end of the ramp after having been previously going 25 on the local roads. I changed the aftermarket radio out for one that's new and has USB/Aux capability, wasn't too hard, all I needed was a butterknife and a screwdriver. Anything I should keep an eye out for?
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Jan 2, 2016 16:28
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Nuclear Pogostick posted:My one gripe about it is that it accelerates like a manatee on chloroform. I mean, I'm no hooner, I just drive a couple miles to my college most days, but it's a little annoying to floor it on the onramp to the highway and still be only going 45mph by the end of the ramp after having been previously going 25 on the local roads. solution 
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Jan 3, 2016 23:28
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blk posted:If it's any consolation the XC60 is the best looking crossover out there and the 70 is one of the worst. The 70 looks like a meaty wagon, and if you're going to strap things on it to go outdoorsing, it looks better IMO than the 9999999 outback wagons sure to be about. Also the interior rails, like I hopefully mentioned before, wherein you can mount a bike rack into the back of it instead of on it - that's pretty rad. With regard to the styling of the 60, what I can say is that since it's introduction it's been sharp looking, not boxy. That rear "hip swoop" is now appearing on the latest Honda and Toyota vehicles, so even though the thing is already 3.5 years old, it looks spot on. There are so few of them on the road versus the V70/XC70 that it still looks unique. For better or worse that's something I like.
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Jan 3, 2016 23:59
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atomicthumbs posted:solution How easy is such a thing to do in terms of parts availability/cash spends? I keep looking at 240s and the lack of urgency in them is the only downside. There's a real nice GLT for sale not too far away but it's auto. :/
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Jan 4, 2016 13:54
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I did it in college, its doable but not necessarily the easiest thing in the world. You'll have to drill out your block for the oil return which is probably the scariest part on your rear model. Not sure how common the donor parts are in junkyards these days. You'll need to find a turbo 700 or 900 series. Also plan on some sort of engine management like megasquirt unless you like detonation.
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Jan 4, 2016 17:15
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PCV question: Is there a better than OEM fix for the lovely cracking/clogging pipes? It's tough to swallow to spend a bunch of money on a fix that doesn't seem to last, so I'm wondering if there are better options. I have an 06 2.5T and noticed the hose by the oil cap is hardened and cracked so I figure I should just replace it all since I'm at 146k. I don't know if it's ever been done either, so I figure that I might as well even though it's like $350. Or would you recommend just doing it piecemeal and checking out what I need when taking it apart?
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Jan 4, 2016 19:14
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If you don't know the history I'd do it all, but that hose is prone to cracking on the 2.5 motors and can be replaced by itself if it cracks again. The whole system should be a once every 100k job.
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Jan 4, 2016 21:50
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 GEMorris posted:I did it in college, its doable but not necessarily the easiest thing in the world. You'll have to drill out your block for the oil return which is probably the scariest part on your rear model. Plenty of people run it just fine on the original LH-jet (although an upgrade to 2.4 (iirc) from said 7/900 can't hurt). 88h88 posted:There's a real nice GLT for sale not too far away but it's auto. :/ Most 240s are auto, and the manual transmissions are weak. Look at it this way: either you don't lose boost between gears, or you get to replace it with a T66.
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Jan 6, 2016 20:12
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Nuclear Pogostick posted:Welp, I am now the owner of a 1989 Volvo 240 wagon. The paint's kinda hosed up and the window trim has faded, but the previous owner replaced a lot of stuff so mechanically it's in excellent shape (I had a third party volvo specialist verify that everything was cool for a little bit of money, worth it for peace of mind IMO). It runs pretty solid and for a car its age it's got a fairly smooth and quiet ride. My one gripe about it is that it accelerates like a manatee on chloroform. I mean, I'm no hooner, I just drive a couple miles to my college most days, but it's a little annoying to floor it on the onramp to the highway and still be only going 45mph by the end of the ramp after having been previously going 25 on the local roads. I changed the aftermarket radio out for one that's new and has USB/Aux capability, wasn't too hard, all I needed was a butterknife and a screwdriver. Anything I should keep an eye out for? Hrmn. Somewhere around 111 hp, 136 lb-ft. Top speed: 175 km/h (109 mph) Acceleration: 0- 60 mph 11.3 s, 0- 100 km/h 12 s and that's before all the horses escape over time. When you floor it does it bog down some? Or just not do much more than half throttle? Still! There is probably some room for improvement, possibly easily. Here's a couple easy things to check: The throttle is actuated with a cable, and that cable stretches over time. Either get a buddy, or some useful object to hold the gas flat to the floor and see if the car is actually getting WOT.   You should hear the throttle position sensor make a click at WOT too; check the procedure in the VOLVOFAQ link below. If you feel like it, go and clean the throttle body too. You should probably inspect your spark situation; if your leads aren't obviously pretty new, consider replacing them; inspect your cap/rotor too. I'd strongly recommend checking the internal resistance of your coil - I got bitten on this in my 940 because I'd replaced it a year prior, and ended up chasing various other possibilities before determining that when hot, my 1 year old coil was being completely poo poo. While you're at all that crap, you might as well pull a plug and make sure it's gapped/not poo poo too. The other thing that might be worth checking is that your vacuum system isn't leaking from cracked hoses everywhere. If you have or can borrow a vacuum gauge, it takes a few minutes and replacing hoses is cheap, if kind of tedious. Some links: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Cleaning+1985+1986+1987+1988+Volvo+740+Throttle+Body/3869 http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/volvohome.htm (you want to read the Volvo Maintenance FAQ for 7xx/9xx/90 Cars) I mean, the real answer is to put a B230FT engine (from a 940) but that would require going to an automatic, unless you can track down a M90 transmission (only offered on later EU only 940's), or can deal with modifying a T5 box. Actually, do this, and also get a manifold from the turbo bandit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-zhg2S5JI4, because we all want to, but are afraid of giving that russian dude money, or an address. Oh. You might consider tossing in a can of seafoam into the gas tank next time you fill it, along with premium gas; see if your injectors/whatnot get a bit of a clean. Blitter fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Jan 7, 2016 |
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Jan 7, 2016 04:21
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Blitter posted:I mean, the real answer is to put a B230FT engine (from a 940) but that would require going to an automatic, unless you can track down a M90 transmission The B230FT isn't substantially different from the B23FT, which came in the 240 and 740 turbo models attached to an M46 or M47. Those will work too.
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Jan 7, 2016 05:15
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atomicthumbs posted:The B230FT isn't substantially different from the B23FT, which came in the 240 and 740 turbo models attached to an M46 or M47. Those will work too. Ah, I had thought with an '89 you'd have had the B230F to begin with, making the swap slightly easier? I keep wanting to change my 940 to a manual from the AW71, but the auto is nearly indestructible and people warn of tearing M46/7's to bits with the FT engine.
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Jan 7, 2016 15:35
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Blitter posted:Ah, I had thought with an '89 you'd have had the B230F to begin with, making the swap slightly easier? I keep wanting to change my 940 to a manual from the AW71, but the auto is nearly indestructible and people warn of tearing M46/7's to bits with the FT engine. from what I've heard that's generally engines with more than the ordinary amount of boost that strip the teeth off third gear. If you're going for lots of boost, consider a T5 (or a T56  ).
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Jan 7, 2016 19:58
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Sometimes my 240 loses a lot of coolant while it sits, but other times it doesn't lose any. What's a cause of this interesting situation?
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Jan 8, 2016 03:06
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shadowzero313 posted:Sometimes my 240 loses a lot of coolant while it sits, but other times it doesn't lose any. What's a cause of this interesting situation? My apologies if I'm missing something but are you talking about the fluid level in the reservoir varying? Or are you adding coolant and having, like, puddles?
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Jan 8, 2016 03:42
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The first, not seeing any puddles. Just some thing is using all the coolant up. One payday away from saying "gently caress it!" and buying this http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/5391245471.html
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Jan 8, 2016 06:02
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I want a physically smaller car so I've been shopping for c30s. Grumpy about them being substantially costlier than similar s40s I suddenly realise I'm browsing s80s again. Damnit brain. Sub-100k 1.6d c30, about 5k. Sub-100k diesel s80, 2k. Same age and equipment.
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Jan 8, 2016 13:07
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My 02 v70 t5 is having throttle/acceleration problems. It mostly happens at low speeds/rpms when I back off the throttle and then get back into the gas, but the last week it has started happening at highway speed. Is it the TPS? Does this MY have some of the throttle body issues of the 99-01? Help!
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Jan 9, 2016 00:15
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confonnit posted:My 02 v70 t5 is having throttle/acceleration problems. It mostly happens at low speeds/rpms when I back off the throttle and then get back into the gas, but the last week it has started happening at highway speed. Is it the TPS? Does this MY have some of the throttle body issues of the 99-01? Help! It could be.. So many things! You really want to pull the DTC codes with an obd2 reader; if I had to hazard a guess, it'd be a miss fire from an aging coil pack, or the TPS both of which will have codes associates with them. I would have thought the TPS failure would have thrown the CEL on tho. If you can, rent(?), beg or borrow an automotive scanner, or buy something like one of these and see if there are any stored codes? Blitter fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Jan 9, 2016 |
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Jan 9, 2016 00:41
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Blitter posted:It could be.. So many things! No, it's almost certainly a failing ETM  The 2002 models still use the failure-prone Magneti Marelli throttle module, and hesitation at low speeds and surging on the highway are pretty classic symptoms of ETM failure, so that would be a good place to start troubleshooting. Scanning for codes is a good idea but unless you have VIDA (the Volvo diagnostic scanner/software) you might only see a generic code instead of the more descriptive codes you can read with VIDA. It's still worth a shot though-any TPS-related codes usually point to a bad ETM since the sensor is built into the module.
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Jan 9, 2016 01:49
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The only codes are for a camshaft position sensor (known issue with an associated CEL) and an evap leak/loose gas cap, I'm guessing from the cheap gas cap I put on it.zundfolge posted:No, it's almost certainly a failing ETM This is what I was worried about 
confonnit fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Jan 9, 2016 |
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Jan 9, 2016 02:11
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It's only $500 with a lifetime warranty from Xemodex though. And a few guys sell them used from time to time, although never when you need it. There is a test you can have a shop do, if you want to be sure. It checks the two position sensors to see how much they deviate from one another. The replacement threshold is 13% but mine was acting up at 9% and I replaced it because the extended warranty on those is long over anyway. Also makes it a good time to just pull the whole PCV system so you can swap it easier with the manifold off the car. Although looking at your post history you just did that a little over a year ago. Bummer. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 10:08 on Jan 9, 2016 |
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Jan 9, 2016 10:06
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I lied-I checked VIDA and I guess the 2002 model uses the Bosch throttle module, not the MM ETM. They can still fail though-I'd pull it out and clean it as a first step, if it needs it, and inspect the electrical connector. The good news is that the Bosch unit was used from 2002 through the end of the P2 S60/V70 model run so it should be easy to find a good used replacement if you need it. A new one isn't that expensive, either.
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Jan 9, 2016 18:00
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The Xemodex website doesn't offer a ETM for my car, only for 2002 non-turbos. Is there a way to diagnose this myself or should I just take it to my Volvo mechanic? Edit - Waited too long to hit post. Thanks for all the helpful replies! Edit 2 - The hesitations have gotten much more frequent since driving to work in a torrential downpour, even hitting a couple of very large puddles. Could the sensor have gone bad? confonnit fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jan 9, 2016 |
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Jan 9, 2016 19:05
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Weird, I could have sworn 02 still used the MM throttle body. Well if it's got the good ETM then it's not the ETM, and is more likely an intake leak, pressure sensor, or MAF, or that cam issue is causing real problems now.
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Jan 10, 2016 01:22
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Confonnit, could you take a look under the hood of your car and see which one it has? I've read about some issues with the connector for the Bosch throttle that cause codes to be thrown for the throttle position sensor and throttle unit. Worldpac has a nice diagnostic guide for it.
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Jan 10, 2016 01:50
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Replaced the brakes (pads and rotors front and rear) and bled them and got all the old nasty fluid out, and thought everything was good. They felt like dog poo poo after putting the wheels back on, so I bled them again. I never let the reservoir go dry and never saw any bubbles while bleeding the first time, but couldn't think of anything else to try. Nothing changed on the 2nd bleed, of course. I was stumped, so I started googling because I didn't know what the gently caress. Turned out that I didn't put the stupid little brake springs back on right. Man, I didn't realize how important those things were.  Brakes work correctly now. This has been a public service announcement from Larrymer. 
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Jan 11, 2016 03:20
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Called the shop about my V70R. Apparently they had great difficulty finding a bumper for it because it's an R and thus is the only model with the exhaust on the right that's not an XC. They'll have it done next Wednesday, which makes for about a month in the shop (aka my entire winter break, plus a few days). 
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Jan 14, 2016 01:27
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Sorry double post.
EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 03:50
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So my mechanic of many years skipped town and I get a call to come tow my cars off his rented lot. He was chasing down a timing issue on my 1999 Volvo V70XC that I had given up on and he couldn't get it fixed either. I get my car back, but minus a bunch of necessary parts, like the turbo. Someone also made off with the stereo and my timing belt locking tools. The only good news was he didn't get any cash from me. So I guess that is a wash. He probably had a ton of time in it and I consider him a friend so really not too bitter. I found a junkyard engine (140K) off a rear ended v70 for $500, but figured before I committed to that purchase I would pull the old engine just to make sure I did not get stymied. After about 8 hours work today, I have just about everything disconnected except the mounts and trans stabilizer. I cannot decide if I want to do a subframe drop or lift it out the top. What do you guys think? I have a cherry picker. At just over 200K miles, I know the car is not worth anything, but then again, I have pretty meticulously taken care of it. It has relatively new shocks (which were spendy Nivomats), decent tires, a new rad/cooling system. It has also had a lot of the pain in the rear end service issues common on these cars like the A/C fixed and newer PCV/flame trap fix. So I am going to throw some money at it. I guess I would rather throw a couple of grand at the car I know than buy a $2K c-list special. It is really clean on the inside and not too shabby on the out, but a year baking in his lot has started the process of clear coat failure. The car is kind of a spare, but all my cars are high mileage, and this one is almost better than my wife's Suburban at hauling stuff. I am going to pull the new water pump, timing goodies from my old engine. I figuring the motor mounts are shot and I will probably do the subframe bushings. I am going to degrease the engine bay and put new wire loom tubing as most of it has turned to dust. Anything else I ought to consider? Does anyone think it worth going ahead and having the trans rebuilt, I have never had any problems with it but it would be my luck for it to crap out once I get it all together. I rebuilt my old turbo, but it appears to be MIA as well. I don't think I will screw with that as the new engine comes with the turbo. I am going to put new CV axles in as well as I think I screwed up the drivers side pulling it out. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 03:51
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Blitter posted:It could be.. So many things! You really want to pull the DTC codes with an obd2 reader; if I had to hazard a guess, it'd be a miss fire from an aging coil pack, or the TPS both of which will have codes associates with them. Blitter gets a gold star! Ended up being two bad coil packs and fouled spark plugs.
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Jan 21, 2016 04:01
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