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I usually blow a couple bucks on the full coverage insurance just so I don't have to think about it.
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Jan 6, 2016 00:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:
I guess in all fairness it was one of the dual axle 5x10ish trailers since they didn't have the 5x8 in stock, with insurance and taxes making up the balance. I think I rented a pack of moving blankets on top of that, so I guess my estimate doesn't exactly hold water... But regardless, money adds up fast
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Jan 6, 2016 01:08
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OSU_Matthew posted:+1 for the beater truck Southern California, which is the only thing that makes the beater truck reasonable - no rust, and tons of them around. Seem to be plenty under $2000, use it for a couple years/projects, still worth $2000. But then those projects never really end. Edit - drat hole saws are expensive. What else can I make holes in? I feel I need more use than the two deadbolts I'm going to use it for. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jan 6, 2016 |
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Jan 6, 2016 05:36
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FogHelmut posted:Southern California, which is the only thing that makes the beater truck reasonable - no rust, and tons of them around. Seem to be plenty under $2000, use it for a couple years/projects, still worth $2000. But then those projects never really end. Oh yeah, that's an excellent point--beater trucks have usually depreciated all that they can so you don't lose your shirt on them. Yeah, I nearly threw up when I saw Milwaukee wanted ~40$ for a single hole saw, not even including the pilot drill bit. Harbor Freight has them much cheaper, and the bi-metal ones have worked out pretty well for everything from plaster/lathe to drilling holes in studs for new wiring.
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Jan 6, 2016 13:17
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FogHelmut posted:
For a one time job harbor freight or equivalent holesaws will be fine, for long term repeated use the good ones are worth every penny.
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Jan 6, 2016 16:02
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If you think hole saws are expensive don't even look at forstner bit prices. They make such awesome clean holes though, even in plastic.
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Jan 6, 2016 16:16
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FogHelmut posted:Southern California, which is the only thing that makes the beater truck reasonable - no rust, and tons of them around. Seem to be plenty under $2000, use it for a couple years/projects, still worth $2000. But then those projects never really end. Hole saws aren't really that bad, at least the Ice hardened(r)(c)(tm)(sm) ones Milwaukee makes that HD sells. The arbor (there are 2 or 3 sizes) is like 10 or 15 bucks each, and then each holesaw is anywhere from 5 to 15 depending on what size it is. I own far too many sizes of those holesaws because they take a beating. My 1" (which is about ready to be replaced) has chattered its way through upwards of 8 inches of steel plate at 540rpm and still has a little life left.
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Jan 6, 2016 16:59
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The irwin hole saw jig thing for deadbolts/door handles is only like $20 which doesn't seem bad to me.
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Jan 6, 2016 17:36
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Buy a good quality mandrel even if you buy cheap hole saws
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Jan 6, 2016 20:20
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My parents sent me a $40 Sears gift card for Christmas, and I've been debating what to spend it on. Does anyone have any ideas for neat things Sears sells I could use it on? I'm thinking I might just pick up something made by Knipex or Klein, or a set of either the Gearwrench stubby ratcheting wrenches or the flex ones.
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Jan 7, 2016 08:18
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boxen posted:My parents sent me a $40 Sears gift card for Christmas, and I've been debating what to spend it on. Does anyone have any ideas for neat things Sears sells I could use it on? I'm thinking I might just pick up something made by Knipex or Klein, or a set of either the Gearwrench stubby ratcheting wrenches or the flex ones. I'd wait until whichever Gearwrench set you like goes on sale, then nab one of each in standard and metric.
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Jan 7, 2016 10:28
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boxen posted:My parents sent me a $40 Sears gift card for Christmas, and I've been debating what to spend it on. Does anyone have any ideas for neat things Sears sells I could use it on? I'm thinking I might just pick up something made by Knipex or Klein, or a set of either the Gearwrench stubby ratcheting wrenches or the flex ones. If you don't have locking socket extensions, things like these are tits (except the old style with the metal release were better imo). But they're super useful for say getting a spark plug socket out of your engine block. I also just bought a leather tool pouch, serpentine belt tool, and AC line splitter there too (for measuring amps with a clamp style meter). The one near me has a huge selection of mechanics tools, much better than the box stores and almost as good as harbor freight. I'd be shocked if you didn't find something you wanted after walking around a bit.
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Jan 7, 2016 15:37
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Raluek posted:I'd wait until whichever Gearwrench set you like goes on sale, then nab one of each in standard and metric. This. Also I recently went back to Sears to replace my lost knipex pliers i bought there when i worked at the auto center 4 years ago. There were like half the tools they used to carry and no knipex. The guy said Id have to order them.. So you might see if you can use that card online.
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Jan 8, 2016 00:39
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In one of the tool or DIY threads someone posted a plastic toolbox with drawers, anyone know what I'm talking about? I searched several threads for the post and can't find it. It was only a week or so ago.
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Jan 8, 2016 01:36
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wormil posted:In one of the tool or DIY threads someone posted a plastic toolbox with drawers, anyone know what I'm talking about? I searched several threads for the post and can't find it. It was only a week or so ago. Me! Uthor posted:I had one of these (in yellow) for years during apartment living. I fit a ton of hand tools in there in an organized fashion and could carry it if needed (but not much further than to my car).
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Jan 8, 2016 02:34
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Uthor posted:Me! Thank you. That's the funny thing about Amazon: there is so much stuff that doesn't seem to show up in searches unless you use the exact name or right search string. I searched and searched for that box using a variety of words and phrases and it never came up.
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Jan 8, 2016 04:19
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I found it searching for "Waterloo", which was easy to remember because I own one!
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Jan 8, 2016 05:03
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Raluek posted:I'd wait until whichever Gearwrench set you like goes on sale, then nab one of each in standard and metric. Thing is, I already have a set of six each (I think) of SAE and Metric, but they're not flex heads. I can think of situations where either a stub or a flex would have been handy, but I was just wondering if anything else at Sears would be super great. I wandered around a bit last year and picked up a jump-start box.
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Jan 8, 2016 05:16
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Are those X2 Crescent long reach pliers at Sears or is it just HD now? I picked up the pair of them and they turn out to be pretty damned handy on a regular basis.
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Jan 8, 2016 05:20
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Hypnolobster posted:Are those X2 Crescent long reach pliers at Sears or is it just HD now? I picked up the pair of them and they turn out to be pretty damned handy on a regular basis. 30 bux w/Prime available http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N9ULHO6/?&th=1
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Jan 8, 2016 08:44
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So my development application for my shed and three decks just got approved, so guess whos shopping for nail guns and an air compressor!  Trying to decide between Paslode, Senco and Bostich now, And just how big a compressor I really need.
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Jan 8, 2016 10:30
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Ferremit posted:just how big a compressor I really need.
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Jan 8, 2016 14:27
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InitialDave posted:Bigger. Biggest.
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Jan 8, 2016 14:52
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Speaking of air compressors this morning I got the remainder of parts for the EJ25D air compressor SiF and I have been brainstorming. More to come. Also used my spring hose clamp removal tool for the first time yesterday changing out the Roadmaster's radiator. God drat that tool is worth its weight in gold. The hose hemostats I got are pretty poo poo though, took a bath in used coolant when the lower hose stopped being pinched off. Oh well, it needed a coolant change anyways.
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Jan 8, 2016 15:53
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kastein posted:
Which one did you buy? And anyone know where can I get those spring clamps in various sizes? I prefer them to regular worm drive clamps (jubilee clips, as my FIL calls them)
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Jan 8, 2016 16:01
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jhcain posted:Which one did you buy? This one right here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5JM0O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 Saved me from quite a few skinned knuckles and heartfelt curses yesterday.
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Jan 8, 2016 16:39
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kastein posted:This one right here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5JM0O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 Ordered. Thanks!
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Jan 8, 2016 17:26
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I've got the Astro Pneumatic version of it, which is probably drat near identical. It's a loving lifesaver.
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Jan 8, 2016 17:31
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Ferremit posted:So my development application for my shed and three decks just got approved, so guess whos shopping for nail guns and an air compressor! Most 30 gallon belt driven compressors are around 5.5-6 CFM at 90lbs, which is pretty much the bare minimum to do most automotive projects with out the compressor constantly cycling. Most 60 gallons are pushing around 11 CFM at 90lbs which is what you will need to continuously run sanders and die grinders. You can run a die grinder or sander on a 30 gallon, just take breaks as you go along - which when I did body work - wasn't that bad, you will end up checking your work as you go along, so waiting for the compressor to fill isn't the end of the world. Also, once you hit the 30+ gallon sized compressors, you need to think about 220v. Also watch the duty cycle on the motors. Some brands will claim all sorts of poo poo, but have a 50-75% duty cycle, which sucks dick. 100% duty cycle is a requirement. Expect to spend around 350-400 for a good compressor. But even with mine running 30 gallons and 220V service, I am looking to upgrade to a 60 gallon eventually.
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Jan 8, 2016 17:36
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Im in Aus, so 220v is already standard, and if im particuarly stupid i can get 415v 3 phase out to the shed which opens all sorts of wonderful possibilities! Ended up with a 9CFM compressor with a 2.5HP motor and a 50L tank. Its not a huge tank, only around 13 Gallon, but the 30 gallon units are around $900 and this was only $460. I do have a trick up my sleeve involving a pressure test expired 90L LPG cylinder from a car which would give me 140L of air capacity which should be ok.  And i bought a Paslode F350S framing nailer. Figured you couldnt go wrong with a paslode gun and when it was a $550 framing nailer that had a bottle of lube ($30) and a 30m air hose ($100) on sale for $419, i couldnt go wrong!  Except the air hose was out of stock and needs to come in, and i didnt buy any nails, so i cant even shoot anything with it today  The compressor being on wheels is good, because it means I can transport it for when i build poo poo for friends to help justify the cost of the nailgun, but also be bolted down in a lean too off the back of the shed to supply that. Whole sheds getting plumbed for shop air too.
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Jan 9, 2016 06:58
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So I totally stripped down my electric impact, trying to find why it no longer stops right away when you release the trigger. I should have taken more pictures of the planetary gearset and the hammer case - it is really cool in there. The trigger is quite well sealed, so I can't get inside to clean the contacts. This trigger assembly I can find online for $90-$120. That just seems like a LOT.  There are more photos in the album: http://imgur.com/a/X6seM
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Jan 9, 2016 12:59
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I'm trying to find a basic shop light for my dad, the kind you hook onto a hood when working on a car. He has an old Halogen light and I thought surely I could find an LED replacement on amazon for ~20 bucks. How does this look? Or can someone else recommend anything else? I'm looking to spend up to up to about 30 bucks; it just needs to be enough to see what you're doing on the car, not light up a whole room.
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Jan 10, 2016 22:20
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I bought one of these on sale back in September, I've been very happy with it. Gives a good, wide field of light instead of a tight focused beam like a lot of LED lights I've seen/used in the past. Battery seems to last forever too. I got it for $35 on sale but it's easily worth the regular $50 price.
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Jan 10, 2016 23:24
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Jack B Nimble posted:I'm trying to find a basic shop light for my dad, the kind you hook onto a hood when working on a car. He has an old Halogen light and I thought surely I could find an LED replacement on amazon for ~20 bucks. The light output from that will suck major balls. Look for something rated in the 10-20 watt department using a chip on board style LED, like these; http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCL050-Hand-Held-Light/dp/B00KWRM78E/ref=sr_1_33?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452475628&sr=1-33&keywords=led+work+light (note, this doesn't come with a battery or charger) http://www.amazon.com/Flashlight-Ca...=led+work+light http://www.amazon.com/Alert-Stampin...=led+work+light Generally you can presume their light output is, in actuality, around 2/3 of whatever they're rated for. I highly recommend buying whatever LED work light his favorite cordless power tool company makes, nearly all of those I've seen work really well. That summit unit looks pretty good, actually, but I definitely wouldn't pay full price for it. It uses high-power SMD LEDs, which also work - but avoid anything which has regular 5mm encapsulated LEDs like the plague; they're almost all dim as gently caress. Edit: noticed the price range, I have more suggestions! http://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-...ts=p_36%3A-3500 http://www.amazon.com/6306-Flashlig...ts=p_36%3A-3500 slightly expensive snap-on: http://www.amazon.com/Snap-922261-2000-Lumens-Light/dp/B00OJOCDJO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452475945&sr=1-1&keywords=led+worklight This looks pretty good but is 40 bux http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Cord...s=led+worklight Might I also suggest a Fenix LED headlamp as opposed to a work light? They're absurdly bright these days and ridiculously useful, but for some reason nobody thinks to use them for working on cars. literally a fish fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jan 11, 2016 |
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Jan 11, 2016 02:30
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literally a fish posted:
This is seriously awesome. I like having a drop light to light up an area and headlamp to focus while using my hands.
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Jan 11, 2016 02:39
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literally a fish posted:
Keep an eye out for these at Costco. I don't remember what I paid, but I think it was $20ish. I bought a couple of them. They work well.
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Jan 11, 2016 02:57
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jan 11, 2016 03:39
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0toShifty posted:So I totally stripped down my electric impact, trying to find why it no longer stops right away when you release the trigger. I meant to reply to this sooner, sorry. The reason why the trigger assembly is ~$100 is because it contains a fairly sophisticated motor speed controller (as you can see, there's no other electronics in the drill) The way it brakes the motor is to short circuit the motor's power terminals when power is off; this means there's a diode or transistor of some kind buried inside the (likely epoxy-filled) trigger module that's not doing what it ought to do. In other words, you have no option but to replace the trigger module, replace the impact, or live with it. Such is life in our increasingly-integrated world.
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Jan 11, 2016 03:50
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0toShifty posted:So I totally stripped down my electric impact, trying to find why it no longer stops right away when you release the trigger. Here's a couple of my Milwaukee, they're probably pretty similar:   If you end up trashing the trigger anyway, might as well try opening it, though like said above it's likely all the bits are potted somehow. You might be lucky and it's just some kind of silicone that you can peel off, since that doesn't look like epoxy leaking out the edges. Looks like all you have to do is pry off that heatsink, which seems to be sandwiching everything into the trigger case.
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Jan 11, 2016 04:20
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fknlo posted:Keep an eye out for these at Costco. I don't remember what I paid, but I think it was $20ish. I bought a couple of them. They work well. Mine has had them consistently for $25-$30. And yeah they work drat well.
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Jan 11, 2016 04:23
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