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So I had a few questions on powerline ethernet adapters. I've got a pair of them, but every now and then an online game will suddenly have bad latency and all these little beeps and boops come out of my stereo system's speakers. First of all, are those beeps and boops related to being in the same socket as the adapter? And does the adapter suddenly go to poo poo if someone were to start something up on the same powerline? And finally, if I'm in a one-story home with wifi, would this adapter be a bit of a waste?
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Jan 10, 2016 01:23
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Everything is on windows 10 except one desktop that I'm not in a hurry to get on the network. I have a this router. http://support.netgear.com/product/WNDR4500 I have one wired desktop, two wireless laptops. and a wireless desktop I'm trying to connect. Unless something has changed, it should as simple as setting up a home group and adding the devices. When I try to connect a device to the home group it times out and says the home group is no longer there. This has to be something painfully obvious because Google gave me no insight. Thanks for any help you can give me. I just said to hell with homegroups and did normal network shares. Sorry, ignore this! Lovable Luciferian fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Jan 10, 2016 |
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Jan 10, 2016 16:35
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What was that program I can use to find out what the best channel to set my router to is again? The OP recommends one that costs $20 which is about $20 too much than I want to pay.
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Jan 10, 2016 20:14
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Boris Galerkin posted:What was that program I can use to find out what the best channel to set my router to is again? The OP recommends one that costs $20 which is about $20 too much than I want to pay.
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Jan 10, 2016 20:48
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There are also a bunch of free options if you have a smartphone.
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Jan 10, 2016 20:55
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I posted here about this issue a while back and it seemed like another return fixed it. Basically, my Archer c7 v2 stops working entirely after about two days and even power cycling doesn't fix the issue. The router will disconnect all devices and won't even accept connections over the Ethernet cable. Reading the Tplink forums, this seems to be a known issue and is apparently hitting a lot more people. In my case, it seems like the network goes down a few minutes after my windows10 desktop connects to if over the Wi-Fi. Not sure of there's a setting in windows I can tweak to mitigate this problem, but I may end up going with a different manufacturer because I've gone through three of these units now.
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Jan 10, 2016 23:12
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CrazyLittle posted:Yes, powerline should work "fine"... well as good as "fine" gets for powerline ethernet goes. I use powerline ethernet. It's nice because it's lower-latency than wifi, but it's not super fast. I have a townhouse. My cable drop is in my living room, and my computer room is right above that. My bedroom is in the back of the second floor. I have two pairs of units, a set of 100mbps transceivers with 100TX jacks and a set with 1gbps transceivers with 100TX jacks (they can all form a single network). The 1gbps transceivers are noticeably faster than the 100mbps set (better SNR and other characteristics), but they're still nowhere near maxing out the their 100mbps jacks. I have one 1gbps at the cable drop and the other in my living room. I have one 100mbps unit in the bedroom. I typically get about 5 MB/s between the living room and the computer room on the 1gbps transceivers. When I used to use the 100mbps unit, I got more like 3-3.5. I get about 2 MB/s to the back bedroom with the 100mbps unit. At night the speeds increase by a large factor - I can get about 8 MB/s to my room and 3-4 to the back bedroom. I assume the difference in speeds at night is caused by the wires picking up wifi signals and jamming the powerline ethernet signals. We have extremely congested wifi bands in our complex, a typical 802.11n router would only get about 1.5 MB/s in the computer room and about 500 KB/s in the bedroom, with intermittent slowdowns during sustained transfers. Similarly this would get much better at night as well. Now that we've moved up to a fancy AC1900 router with beamforming and all that poo poo our wifi speeds are a lot better. They're now roughly comparable with the powerline ethernet, but the powerline ethernet is much more consistent and the latency is much lower. It's definitely vastly inferior to real GigE, particularly in speed, but it's vastly, vastly better than wifi. I live in Michigan and I typically get 35-40 ms ping to Chicago-area game servers with perfect gameplay quality (no choke, etc). Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Jan 11, 2016 |
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Jan 11, 2016 00:08
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Boris Galerkin posted:What was that program I can use to find out what the best channel to set my router to is again? The OP recommends one that costs $20 which is about $20 too much than I want to pay. Wi-Fi Analytics for Windows NetSpot for OSX Wi-Fi Analyzer for Android I don't think there's one for iOS without having to jailbreak your phone or buying an external device. I've got an old 2.4GHz Wi-Pry from work I use for demonstrations, but I'd like to get an RF Explorer one of these days. The benefit of standalone devices is that they're capable of detecting all signals and interference in a radio band, instead of just 802.11 networks. ufarn posted:Are you sure your router doesn't have a built-in feature for this? They sometimes do, like my Netgear. Having a spectrum analyzer on a device instead of the router is pretty handy for seeing what the wireless signal looks like all around your home instead of just one location. If your AP is stuck in the basement for example, it might not detect a lot of networks on competing channels upstairs. Coxswain Balls fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jan 11, 2016 |
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Jan 11, 2016 02:23
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I'm leaving the blessed holy land of Fios for Comcast and am now faced with having to buy a router/cable modem. Is the sb6141 still the best bet? I'm probably going to grab a package with 105mb down/10mb (lol) up. Also routers. What can I do for less than $100 and if I have to break $100 for a router can I just get the Google Onhub thing and be happy? Extra Info: It's a small space, but the walls are thick and its an old building so who knows what is in them, also densely populated area so lot of wifi noise.
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Jan 11, 2016 03:08
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Paul MaudDib posted:I have two pairs of units, a set of 100mbps transceivers with 100TX jacks and a set with 1gbps transceivers with 100TX jacks (they can all form a single network). You might be able to squeeze better performance out of your powerline networking if you upgraded them all to current-gen and same-model jacks.
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Jan 11, 2016 03:18
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Sextro posted:I'm leaving the blessed holy land of Fios for Comcast and am now faced with having to buy a router/cable modem. Is the sb6141 still the best bet? I'm probably going to grab a package with 105mb down/10mb (lol) up. Also routers. What can I do for less than $100 and if I have to break $100 for a router can I just get the Google Onhub thing and be happy? Extra Info: It's a small space, but the walls are thick and its an old building so who knows what is in them, also densely populated area so lot of wifi noise. SB6141 for sure I'd grab a 5th gen airport express if you want simple set it and forget it, then figure out the wall situation from there if the performance isn't what you're hoping for. http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00FTOXP3Q/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
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Jan 11, 2016 03:31
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e.pilot posted:SB6141 for sure What you linked seems to lack 802.11AC newer devices all support, is that because its not a big deal/worth the cost?
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Jan 11, 2016 04:00
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e.pilot posted:SB6141 for sure The SB6183 looks interesting if alone for "Energy Efficient Ethernet".
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Jan 11, 2016 04:35
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The 6183 is a safer bet because it also uses 16 downstreams. That may not be useful right now but if you'll be keeping cable internet for a few years it's cheap insurance to take advantage of higher speeds.
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Jan 11, 2016 04:50
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Comcast's modem page says the 6141 non-retail is EOL but this article managed to get in contact with Comcast and confirmed the retail version is still supported. Odd. There are a couple of places saying the 16 channel modem can get better throughput on even 100mb plans.
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Jan 11, 2016 04:55
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If the 100 Mb tier is overprovisioned more bandwidth is not a bad idea. Really, the added bandwidth is never a bad idea, especially if your node is busy
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Jan 11, 2016 04:57
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Panty Saluter posted:The 6183 is a safer bet because it also uses 16 downstreams. That may not be useful right now but if you'll be keeping cable internet for a few years it's cheap insurance to take advantage of higher speeds. I have this modem due to time warner's maxx upgrade and it has been great. As you mention anything over 100mbps requires the 16 downstream. Anyone have a cheap 802.11ac adapter they love? Relaunching my windows pc and could use the additional speed to my nas.
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Jan 11, 2016 09:38
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Is cable in the US upgrading to >100Mbps in many places? Up here in New England such investment is a paucity. No one's even bothered with fiber, at least for residential properties.
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Jan 11, 2016 11:01
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Where I'm moving Comcast offers a 105mbit tier and gigabit. If I were a few blocks over they'd have 105mbit and 250mbit, but no gigabit. Infrastructure is odd.
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Jan 11, 2016 11:11
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Most places in Austin had gotten up to 100, then when google fiber was announced 300 quickly became magically available.
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Jan 11, 2016 13:01
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Paul MaudDib posted:I use powerline ethernet. It's nice because it's lower-latency than wifi, but it's not super fast. Yeah that was pretty much my experience with it. I would get 10MB/s speed which is very solid but nowhere near what they advertise. The main improvement was the latency and consistency. It had to be rebooted a few times which was annoying and it wasn't inexpensive, I just put the extra money into doing a cable drop. After upgrading our router to a Netgear R7000 I was getting 12-15MB/s on wifi anyway so I returned the powerline kit.
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Jan 11, 2016 15:53
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Not quite sure if this is the correct place to ask but since it's about a router and you can't create new threads on the app... I logged into my router/modem and when I clicked on advanced settings I was required to log in again. I thought nothing of it since I've seen other things where you have to put in your password to access certain settings like PlayStation network. My firewall log showed a Cross-site Request Forgery. After obsessively checking said logs all day I discovered that while I had to log in to the router all the time (since leaving the page apparently logs me out automatically) I hardly ever had to re-login to advanced settings and the times I did were the CSRFs. I haven't had any logging into other websites but then I haven't been doing so that much for obvious reasons. I did however, get a Google captcha after very little searching which is a bad sign. Since I've only got the CSRFs on my tablet and not my PS3 I've hard reset my tablet and factory reset my router but am still getting them. Is there anything I can do to check if it is my router that's infected? If it helps I have a PC though it's still on windows XP so I'm weary of it being online at all. EDIT: I know about the F Secure Router Checker but every time I've checked it in the past few days it's being updating and unusable. Death Zebra fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Jan 15, 2016 |
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Jan 15, 2016 20:46
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I'm looking for advice on a home access point. I currently have a standard carrier provided actiontech router/modem for my fiber connection. I live in a condo building with a very crowded 2.5 ghz spectrum, and the location of the modem in my unit is not very good. The router is located in our laundry room in the far corner of the condo inside a telecom cabinet. The biggest problem is that the location of the router means that the actively lived in areas is located at a 30 degree angle to a long load bearing wall that is dense as hell. Plus its located on the far side of the utility wall with all the cabling and plumbing from the rest of the unit. So 5 ghz wouldn't work even if I had it. The upside is that I have all the rooms wired with cat 5e, so I've been able to get along fairly well using switches and hard wiring everything possible. So my question is this. I'm thinking of getting this item to use as an access point in our living room. I'm figuring that I can hook it up in place of my current switch and use it to create another 5 ghz network that would be usable in the living room. Would this work? Does anyone have any experience setting something like this up? Any advice?
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Jan 15, 2016 23:46
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Gorau posted:I'm looking for advice on a home access point. I currently have a standard carrier provided actiontech router/modem for my fiber connection. I live in a condo building with a very crowded 2.5 ghz spectrum, and the location of the modem in my unit is not very good. The router is located in our laundry room in the far corner of the condo inside a telecom cabinet. The biggest problem is that the location of the router means that the actively lived in areas is located at a 30 degree angle to a long load bearing wall that is dense as hell. Plus its located on the far side of the utility wall with all the cabling and plumbing from the rest of the unit. So 5 ghz wouldn't work even if I had it. The upside is that I have all the rooms wired with cat 5e, so I've been able to get along fairly well using switches and hard wiring everything possible. So my question is this. I'm thinking of getting this item to use as an access point in our living room. I'm figuring that I can hook it up in place of my current switch and use it to create another 5 ghz network that would be usable in the living room. Would this work? Does anyone have any experience setting something like this up? Any advice?
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Jan 15, 2016 23:54
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wyoak posted:Why bother repeating the wireless signal if you've got cat5 runs everywhere? I'd just get a normal AP. Any suggestions for a good one? Basically we still have laptops and tablets in use in the living room and in the evenings once people get home in other units our connectivity takes a poo poo.
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Jan 16, 2016 00:12
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The thread choice is the Ubiquiti Networks UAP-AC-LITE UniFi Access Point, $98.97 from Amazon at this moment..
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Jan 16, 2016 00:15
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Anyone got a good recommendation for a non-Intel 7260-based PCI-E wireless card? I have the Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I recommended in the parts thread, but I'm having this issue with it so I'm looking for something better.
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Jan 16, 2016 02:05
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Binary Badger posted:The thread choice is the Ubiquiti Networks UAP-AC-LITE UniFi Access Point, $98.97 from Amazon at this moment.. You can also get the UAP-AC-PRO for only $142 if you want 3x3 MIMO, but I don't know how much difference it will make with most adapters. I haven't used the Ubiquiti AC gear yet but have had really good results with their 2.4GHz N stuff. The wireless-wired bridging feature works surprisingly well, for anyone who is trying to get a wired connection somewhere that they can't run Cat5.
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Jan 16, 2016 02:51
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So I'm putting together a parts list for the network setup for the new house my parents are building. It'll be a big house with a bunch of drops. We'll have CAT6 run everywhere (two drops each in 4 bedrooms, 4 drops per TV/entertainment center, a few extras, two drops for ceiling-mount APs, maybe a couple more). Money isn't a huge deal, though I'm trying to keep it somewhat reasonable. Their new house is 4 hours away, so I'm trying to put something together with reliability in mind. I'll set it up so I can VPN in and take care of some maintenance stuff. I've settled on a Ubiquiti Edgerouter ER-8 and two UniFi UAP-AC-LITEs for the main components. A Mac Mini will also do some light duty as a headless file/backup server for them. I need a hand with some of the other details: - Patch panel for 24+ runs. Something that can be flush mounted high in the wall. - 8- or 16-port unmanaged switch(es), rackmountable preferred. I'll probably end up with 3 8-port switches, I want to be able to split out different ports around the house easily in case they get IPTV service installed. - Smallish wall-mounted rack. It'd be nice if it is enclosed to keep things looking tidy. Needs to fit the ER-8, 3x 8 port switches, and maybe 2 shelves for other stuff including the Mac Mini, a 2-bay HDD enclosure, 2x small Ubiquiti POE adapters, and anything else that ends up in the cabinet. I have never done anything rackmounted before, so I have no clue how these things are sized. - Rackmount power strip for the wall-mounted rack. A dozen outlets or so would be nice. - (Probably a better question for the NAS thread) 2-bay HDD enclosure for a RAID-1 setup, USB 3.0 is OK. I'll probably drop a couple 2TB WD Reds in it. It won't see a whole lot of use, mainly backups, caching, and photo storage. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! smax fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Jan 16, 2016 |
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Jan 16, 2016 04:11
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Oh yeah, I finally got my order of UAP-AC-Pro-5pk, and installed them throughout my house. AC wifi is pretty 
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Jan 16, 2016 07:03
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CrazyLittle posted:Oh yeah, I finally got my order of UAP-AC-Pro-5pk, and installed them throughout my house. AC wifi is pretty Are these like, replacements for my AirPort Extreme or just extensions? Just bought a new house and looking for good solutions but we're an Apple house so I love the ease of the Airport Extreme.
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Jan 16, 2016 07:05
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Feenix posted:Are these like, replacements for my AirPort Extreme or just extensions? Just bought a new house and looking for good solutions but we're an Apple house so I love the ease of the Airport Extreme. Airport Extreme is a router + WiFi access point built into one. They're great and fine and all, but if you put your AEBS next to your cable-modem/dsl-modem/fiber-drop then it's probably not in the middle of where all your wireless devices will be used. If you stick it in the basement or in a cupboard, then your wifi signal has to pass through every obstacle between it and your device, and likewise in reverse your device has to beam all the way back. You solve this dilemma by untying your WiFi APs from the router, and you put the APs where all your devices go. Ubiquiti happens to be one particular vendor of access points that are: 802.11AC wifi, cheap, and centrally managed. I placed an order for a 5-pack back in September for a 5 pack of UAP-AC-Pro units, which are dual band access points with 3x3 MIMO on 5ghz channels. They arrived this week. I installed one in my living room, one in my office, one in my garage, and one in a back bedroom. You could totally do the same thing with a bunch of Airports. It would just be really expensive, and you'd have to configure each one individually, and Apple's AEBS tools suck balls for advanced config.
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Jan 16, 2016 08:06
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CrazyLittle posted:Airport Extreme is a router + WiFi access point built into one. They're great and fine and all, but if you put your AEBS next to your cable-modem/dsl-modem/fiber-drop then it's probably not in the middle of where all your wireless devices will be used. If you stick it in the basement or in a cupboard, then your wifi signal has to pass through every obstacle between it and your device, and likewise in reverse your device has to beam all the way back. Thanks for the esplainin'. For clarification, does having multiple Ubiquities halve your speeds or do you mean each one stems from a hard wired drop?
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Jan 16, 2016 09:41
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Feenix posted:each one stems from a hard wired drop? I had my house hard-wired with 2 drops in each room. When I finally settle on the AP placement, I'll probably crawl into the attic and put dedicated cable runs in the ceiling. Otherwise I'll just chicken out and leave them plugged into the wall in each room like they currently are.
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Jan 16, 2016 10:06
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Feenix posted:Thanks for the esplainin'. For clarification, does having multiple Ubiquities halve your speeds or do you mean each one stems from a hard wired drop? They can be used in either mode. However I strongly recommend that you hook each one up to its own wired connection.
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Jan 16, 2016 14:51
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i have not had great luck with routers over the years. They seem to fail every few years or so. Right now I am on my ISP's modem/router because I hadn't replaced the 2nd Cisco/Linksys EA3200 router that failed about a few years ago. Well the ISP's modem/router is currently failing: intermittent connection failures, presently very slow, frequently unresponsive interface. I will be getting the ISP to replace it after which I will only use it as a gateway. My question is would there be a benefit to using a router w/o wireless after the gateway and connecting a wireless router downstream? The idea that each router would share household traffic, as both cabled and wireless is heavy. Every router I've bought has died after a few years, perhaps due to heat and poor power quality/outages. My network is: ISP Modem/Router -> Branches A,B.C A:Switch connected to PC, NAS B:PC C:TV Around 6 wireless devices: Apple TV, ipad/ipod/,printer,etc.
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Jan 16, 2016 17:12
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CrazyLittle posted:I had my house hard-wired with 2 drops in each room. When I finally settle on the AP placement, I'll probably crawl into the attic and put dedicated cable runs in the ceiling. Otherwise I'll just chicken out and leave them plugged into the wall in each room like they currently are. How's the signal quality with them plugged into the wall like that? I'm unreasonably nervous about ceiling mounting APs in my new house.
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Jan 16, 2016 18:01
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Ynglaur posted:How's the signal quality with them plugged into the wall like that? I'm unreasonably nervous about ceiling mounting APs in my new house. What? Ceiling mount is usually great signal strength.
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Jan 16, 2016 18:10
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redeyes posted:What? Ceiling mount is usually great signal strength. Yeah, I'd probably get more ideal coverage if I had mounted all my APs on the ceiling. Instead they're plugged into wall jacks and sitting on tables. It's good enough, but that's mostly because they're all in line-of-sight when you're using the WiFi in any of those rooms. Ynglaur posted:I'm unreasonably nervous about ceiling mounting APs in my new house.
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Jan 16, 2016 20:34
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Ynglaur posted:How's the signal quality with them plugged into the wall like that? I'm unreasonably nervous about ceiling mounting APs in my new house. I live in a 1920s built house with plaster walls and I just have my AP sitting on a shelf in the living room. Works pretty solid at the other end of the house, where my RT-N66U wouldn't reach.
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Jan 16, 2016 20:38
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