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Electric Hobo posted:Thanks! Jutlanders do. They (the store) are solid people though.
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Jan 16, 2016 13:03
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Floppychop posted:It looks like you have some chunks in your flesh colored paint. Everything else is nice and smooth, but the faces have noticeable bumps. BlackIronHeart is exactly right about my flesh tone paints being ancient Ral Partha and Reaper paints (also some newer Vallejo stuff), but in this case the chunkiness actually came from GW White Scar. How lovely is that? I tried to mitigate it as best I could, and you're right, it's not noticeable at tabletop distance. But up close it makes the chick look a little bit like a burn victim.
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Jan 16, 2016 14:47
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Yeast posted:Spent the afternoon trying out paint schemes for my Steel Legion tanks This looks great. I like the weathering and wouldn't say its too much. Now finish a whole tank!
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Jan 16, 2016 20:50
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I'm going to a small Blood Bowl championship tomorrow and decided to make some custom turn/score markers for my undead team I'm attending with. I needed to quickly paint 2 extra ghouls for the starting lineup, so I decided to touch up the rest of the figures a bit, as I've painted them about 10 years ago and it showed. 
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Jan 16, 2016 22:46
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I can't remember if I asked this here before or just in IRC, but does anyone know of any manufacturer that makes any shade of blue primer, and does it air brush ready, and in 60ml bottles or greater? I want to bulk prime a metric fuckton (not an Imperial fucktonne) of MDF and Mantic Battlezones in such a way that I don't need to do them in white or light grey, and then go over them again with a base in the colour I want, I just want it once and done in one afternoon, and then I can pick out details with a brush and wash at a later date, as moods/needs suit. Vallejo and AK Interactive make a couple shades of green, dark red, mustard and sand yellows, and some dark greys in 60ml/200ml bottles, but they don't have blue. Vallejo only has blue primer in their 17ml range, and that's an awful costly way to prime a lot of terrain. Army Painter has blue sprays, but they're $30 each here. The hardware store might have gloss blues, flat is only in black and white, but those are $8 a can.
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Jan 17, 2016 10:42
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Vallejo? FW?
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Jan 17, 2016 12:09
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These guys look rad as hell, it's really got me itching to paint up a team even though I don't play.
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Jan 17, 2016 12:51
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NTRabbit posted:Vallejo only has blue primer in their 17ml range, and that's an awful costly way to prime a lot of terrain.
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Jan 17, 2016 13:05
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I'm doing some Micro Art Studio canals, and as proper 40K stuff, they need to be filled with toxic sludge As can be seen here, i've given it an initial layer of Caliban green, but i'm unsure on how to proceed hereafter, though i do know i'll need to finish it with a layer of water effects to get that smooth watery finish. (or some glossy lacquer)
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Jan 17, 2016 14:13
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Frobbe posted:I'm doing some Micro Art Studio canals, and as proper 40K stuff, they need to be filled with toxic sludge Get some grunge on there. Use a combination of brown and green paint along the inner sides, watering it down a little so it's more like a glaze. Apply multiple thin layers, starting with brown and ending with green, so it looks like dirt and grime has accumulated to the point of discoloration. If you have some rusty brown color kicking around, even better. I'd also suggest using some washes here and there to help give the whole thing more definition; as it is, it looks too flat. As for the sludge, it depends on how toxic you want to go for. If you want something more closer to life, then you'll want to use some browns and drab greens in there, glazing and dry-brushing in various amounts to get a 'baby poop' green. If you want something like you'd see in Doom--bright glowing green--then you'll want to work up with progressively more neon green. Goblin Green, Old GW Scorpion Green, and P3 Necrotite Green are all good color choices for that effect. You could drybrush along the sides for a glowing effect too, if you decide to go that route.
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Jan 17, 2016 14:38
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Spiderdrake posted:I have no idea if they pulled it out of their rear end or what, but meeplemart lists an Ultramarine vallejo surface primer in 60ml as 'coming soon'. That's not useful to you, but maybe Vallejo is coming out with such a product? Well if they do, the hobby kit place that stocks all their current 60/200ml bottles will stock it and I'll be able to get it then, thanks. Just seems weird that AK makes white, grey, black, desert sand, dark yellow, russian green, olive drab, dark red, rust, and tracks in 60ml, and Vallejo makes white, grey, black, schwarzgrau, dunkelgelb, rotbraun, german green, UK bronze green, US olive drab, russian green, and israeli sand in 60ml/200ml - all of which are basically aimed at historical hobby kit builders working in large scales with large volume paint demands - but neither can stoop to any shade of blue at all, which I would have thought naval builders would use. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 14:41
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After being out of town for a week, I was jonesing for some hobby action. Yesterday I sat down and painted up the halftrakk:      I also took an old Rhino a friend made back in high school, chopped it the hell up, and yesterday I used a bunch of bits to make it into a proper Orky vehicle: 
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Jan 17, 2016 16:43
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Wierre posted:I'm going to a small Blood Bowl championship tomorrow and decided to make some custom turn/score markers for my undead team I'm attending with. These really do look great.
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Jan 17, 2016 17:58
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Frobbe posted:As can be seen here, i've given it an initial layer of Caliban green, but i'm unsure on how to proceed hereafter, though i do know i'll need to finish it with a layer of water effects to get that smooth watery finish. (or some glossy lacquer) If you're looking for water effects, you might try Art Resin, which was designed to prevent discoloration over long periods. 5-minute epoxies and the like yellow pretty quickly (although that may be beneficial in your case since you're making gross water).
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Jan 17, 2016 23:20
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Anyone have decent resources or products for doing 10mm urban bases? Want to do up some infantry bases for Dropzone Commander and not sure where to start for getting things like asphalt down from a material standpoint. Already picked up some n scale cars I am going to rough up as abandoned vehicles and such.
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Jan 18, 2016 04:05
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nesbit37 posted:Anyone have decent resources or products for doing 10mm urban bases? Want to do up some infantry bases for Dropzone Commander and not sure where to start for getting things like asphalt down from a material standpoint. Already picked up some n scale cars I am going to rough up as abandoned vehicles and such. Vallejo Black Lava is a good miniature asphalt. However at 10mm it might be too chunky.
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Jan 18, 2016 04:14
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Vallejo Dark Earth is good and what I use for slighty-coarse sand at 28mm, so it should look reasonably like asphalt at 6mm. Get a little scraper or something (even a toothpick can work) to smooth it flat and it should be good.
Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Jan 18, 2016 |
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Jan 18, 2016 04:16
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What are peoples experiences with AP varnishes? It's slightly easier for me to get.
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Jan 18, 2016 05:00
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Today is a sad day. Because today was the day my pots of old GW Shadow Grey and Blood Red finally gave up the ghost for good. See you at the crossroads. 
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Jan 18, 2016 07:15
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DJ Dizzy posted:What are peoples experiences with AP varnishes? It's slightly easier for me to get. AP anti-shine matt varnish is really good stuff, basically Dullcote.
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Jan 18, 2016 09:44
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What about their satin coat?
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Jan 18, 2016 12:27
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Is there still an Oath thread going on? I don't see it in TG. But I could also be blind so...
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Jan 18, 2016 15:33
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JoshTheStampede posted:Today is a sad day. Because today was the day my pots of old GW Shadow Grey and Blood Red finally gave up the ghost for good. Coat d'Arms might have replacements.
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Jan 18, 2016 15:39
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The Dark Project posted:Is there still an Oath thread going on? I don't see it in TG. But I could also be blind so... Right here http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3717315
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Jan 18, 2016 15:40
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I've discovered that I really just need to paint my miniatures one at a time  I've been working on 9 Bloodtrackers for like 3 months. I decide to take a break and paint up my Razorwing Griffin, and I'm like 90% done in 2 days. I'm guessing it's because I can spend 5 hours painting a unit and be done with like their spears, where as I can spend 5 hours painting up most of a single model and just feel much more accomplished 
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Jan 18, 2016 15:57
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Avenging Dentist posted:Vallejo Dark Earth is good and what I use for slighty-coarse sand at 28mm, so it should look reasonably like asphalt at 6mm. Get a little scraper or something (even a toothpick can work) to smooth it flat and it should be good. Dexefiend posted:Vallejo Black Lava is a good miniature asphalt. However at 10mm it might be too chunky. Ok cool. I'll give those a shot. What about other details like busted up small walls, curbs, things like that? Do people just cut up left over sprues or does someone make something decent for that in a 10mm scale pack? I am totally being lazy here since I should just sculpt up something simple and quick and cast it but really not wanting to tackle that right now.
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Jan 18, 2016 16:07
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Iron Crowned posted:I've discovered that I really just need to paint my miniatures one at a time I'm the same. Assembly line painting feels like homework or drudgery, no matter how much I like the models. I don't feel like I am painting.
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Jan 18, 2016 20:16
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If you're too impatient to get Vallejo black lava, then Liquitex also makes a black lava texture paint that you should be able to find at any good art supply store like Guiry's. Basically, I learned that black lava texture paint is a material that can be used on canvas or board for painting if you want a textured surface. I thought it was just for modeling because people only bring up Vallejo's 
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Jan 18, 2016 20:42
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Can anyone recommend a fineliner brand in the UK for doing panel lines? I've just killed two pens in a row from my local art shop, and I did the same with two sharpie fineliners a while back. Any ideas?
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Jan 18, 2016 22:06
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The citadel paint pot design never bothered me until I started airbrushing. I have to scoop paint out with a sculpting tool and tap it off onto a pallet. gently caress it's annoying.
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Jan 18, 2016 22:31
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Iron Crowned posted:I've discovered that I really just need to paint my miniatures one at a time JoshTheStampede posted:I'm the same. Assembly line painting feels like homework or drudgery, no matter how much I like the models. I don't feel like I am painting. I've found a great way to combat assembly line drudgery, it's basically have multiple projects on the go at the same time, even multiple assembly lines. Tell yourself once you've done X, Y or Z on assembly line 1, you'll spend a bit of time on that centrepiece model, when you're waiting for something to dry on that, then pick up the next thing in the queue. I get so much more painting done when I've got more to paint. If I've got one project on the go then it takes ages to get anywhere with it.
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Jan 18, 2016 22:48
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Hixson posted:The citadel paint pot design never bothered me until I started airbrushing. I have to scoop paint out with a sculpting tool and tap it off onto a pallet. gently caress it's annoying. 20ml dropper bottles from ebay/Amazon are your friend! The labels are easy to peel off, too.
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Jan 18, 2016 23:04
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JoshTheStampede posted:I'm the same. Assembly line painting feels like homework or drudgery, no matter how much I like the models. I don't feel like I am painting. Pretty much the reason I gave up on my 40k eldar army. Blood Bowl however with its small team sizes is the way to go for me. I try to paint in groups of 5-7 miniatures, two batches like that and you are done with a team and you can go think about your next team and their colours, or paint up some star players / big guys. Speaking of which, here are the guys I've been working on since I finished the goblin team. There has been some experimenting with skin colours because I really didnt want them to have the same shade of green as the goblins, and taking dmnz's suggestions I ended up with what you see here in the end. (Except the thrower)  
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Jan 18, 2016 23:19
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Wierre posted:Pretty much the reason I gave up on my 40k eldar army. Blood Bowl however with its small team sizes is the way to go for me. I try to paint in groups of 5-7 miniatures, two batches like that and you are done with a team and you can go think about your next team and their colours, or paint up some star players / big guys. Amazing and I'm getting some serious retro vibes from this - what was the recipe for the green and the red, please?
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Jan 18, 2016 23:40
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Southern Heel posted:Amazing and I'm getting some serious retro vibes from this - what was the recipe for the green and the red, please? For the black orc I just tried to follow dmnz's formula with the colours at hand. Was using white basecoat and then Caliban Green (as my Dark Angels green also took its last breath) a quick wash of Biel-Tan Green, 50/50 Caliban Green / Snot Green, pure Snot Green, and then hitting Snot green with various amounts of Iyanden Darksun. Rest of the orcs are Waagh Flesh with a Biel-Tan Green wash, and then Waagh Felsh with Iyanden Darksun with more and more % of yellow added. The red was also an experiment as starting out with Blood Gore / Crimson Gore gave a too dark result. While Blood Red looked more of an orange on them. Final colour was Mephiston Red, light wash of Nuln Oil corrected with Mephiston Red again on the more raised areas, and highlighting was with Blood Red and some Blazing Orange as the top. The photos do seem a bit brighter than the real deal. I get the retro/old school thing a lot lately, I guess 90s 'Eavy Metal team had most of the influence on me, but I'm far from their skill levels. Edit: Right still need to cover them with matt varnish, that will bring down the shininess a bit.
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Jan 19, 2016 00:00
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Painting up some Skitarii. I decided the desert was boring, and I'm going with a jungle theme. I decided to do some camouflage. However, I'm at the point where I've got the base done on the robes, and I'm not sure if I want to go with the camo or stay with the olive.  Here's the robe on one of the Skitarii. Just some olive green with some shading and highlighting.  I took the same colors and painted them on a spare Bones mini I had laying around. The highlights/shadows are more basic, but it should give the idea. Painted over it with some camo stripes. Which do you guys think will work better for a squad of rangers?
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Jan 19, 2016 01:44
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Quick WIP shot of the Knight-Acheron I'm currently working on. Gotta finish up all the main colours before adding some additional highlights, details, controlled washes around edges, transfers and weathering. Plus the base needs all the fun snow effects. Really fun project so far! 
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Jan 19, 2016 03:02
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Also, trying liquid mask for camo patterns on my dunecrawler. Here's my first test, using a 3-inch base. First I sprayed it with olive green, then I applied some liquid mask. Added some brown, went to more liquid mask, and ended with a brighter green. Edges ended up a bit ragged, but I find that once it was completely dried, I could rub away a lot of that raggedness without affecting the overall paint job. I do need to make sure not to hit so much area on the first run of liquid mask. There's too much olive green showing. I could get more variation showing if I'd had less of it covered when I sprayed the next layer. Still, I think overall it's not too bad. I also tried a stencil at the end, using one of the rubber stencilis things I got. Didn't turn out as well as I would've liked. I need something to hold it down more firmly, I think.
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Jan 19, 2016 06:53
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I have a question for the painter goons. I've got the contrast working out well on this Scourge paint scheme, but I want to add some color. What is a good color to add to the brown->tan->yellow sort of gradient I have going?
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Jan 19, 2016 07:12
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JackMann posted:Painting up some Skitarii. I decided the desert was boring, and I'm going with a jungle theme. I decided to do some camouflage. Personally I'd just go with the olive for the Skitarii, I think they're too small for camo to work.
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Jan 19, 2016 08:42
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