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Finally accumulated enough points at the grocery store for a (mostly) free tank of gas: You get $.10/off per gallon for every $50 you spend on everything but alcohol and tobacco, with discounts expiring every 90 days. So yeah, I spent about $800 on groceries to get that 
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Jan 14, 2016 21:24
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I'm starting a job as a personal shopper next week, and apparently they wind up doing a lot of business with Kroger. Kroger's giving them grief over tax-exempt forms (supposedly each store is supposed to have them on file), so they've told shoppers to just start using their reward cards to offset the tax until they figure out the best way to deal with Kroger. Don't mind if I do, I can use the points.
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Jan 15, 2016 05:52
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Tried to take the driver's side inner tie rod out of my EG. Couldn't figure out a way to get to the inner boot clasp without dropping the rack, so gave up and did a bunch of small maintenance stuff instead. Boot's torn too so I'll have to wait for a new part anyway. It'll give me some time to install the rest of the parts I've ordered for it but not installed yet.
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Jan 15, 2016 19:54
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Changed out the cabin air filter, got a new windshield installed (which they assured me the rain sensing wipers still work), and I threw on new wiper blades. Sweet, sweet visibility.  Car threw a code for one of the daytime running lights failing, so that's the next bulb to replace. It's been intermittent (somehow, hope it isn't wiring related...) but I'll try the bulb first.
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Jan 16, 2016 23:47
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Did a drain/fill of the ATF in the beater Vibe. 90k and I'm pretty sure it was original, it was black and smelled pretty bad. Dipstick said something along the lines of "no need to change this fluid move along lalala". Got about 4 quarts out and put back in, I'll probably do it again in the spring. Already shifts and goes into OD smoother, not that it was too bad before or anything.
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Jan 17, 2016 00:11
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Replaced rear rotors, pads and driver's side caliper on my truck. I've never had something be a pain in the rear end like that, which I'm guessing is partly because they were still the OE rotors at nearly 140k miles. I honestly think I could have taken the passenger rotor, stuck it on the lathe, taken 5 thousandths off to just clean it up and put it back on. I elected to just stick a new rotor on it since it'll possibly last longer than the truck (who am I kidding, its a gm product so that loving engine and drivetrain will outlive me probably). The caliper bracket bolts still had the factory glue all over them making them a pain in the rear end to break free on the driver's side and I could still see the factory grease pen marks on the tophat. Oh well, shiny stuff is on and it'll lock all 4 tires up hard if I slam on it from 40mph. I'm calling it good enough.
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Jan 17, 2016 00:24
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Smelled fuel in my V70R a couple times this week so I checked out the engine bay to make sure there wasn't anything leaking. The stain around the injector bung in the manifold was worrisome, so I pulled the fuel rail and found that the o-ring on that injector had seen better days. My guess is that it was causing a vacuum/boost leak and letting fuel get blown out when the manifold pressurized under boost. Fortunately I had some new o-rings on the shelf so I went ahead and replaced all of them. 
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Jan 17, 2016 00:46
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Replaced the annoying plastic flow metering valve in the Roadmaster's heater core inlet line with some brass fittings and a ball valve. Eat it, GM, I am not amused by your usage of weak lovely glass reinforced plastic in cooling system parts and the ensuing coolant pissfest I was unwillingly subjected to when they split in half. Place your bets on which 23 year old cooling system component will be the next weak link to break! WP looks like it was already done a few years back.
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Jan 17, 2016 04:26
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I think you said the radiator was done fairly recently too, right? It'll be some kind of impossible to reach bypass hose.
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Jan 17, 2016 10:35
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I did the radiator like a week ago, which is what started this game of cooling system whack-a-mole. Not sure what you mean by bypass hose though, everything is easily reachable on this cooling system except the quick connects to the heater core. If the heater core goes next (it will) I am going to be very cross.
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Jan 17, 2016 14:19
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jhcain posted:Took the old engine and trans out. Way behind, but hell, yes! The Crown Vic P71 started sqeaking a bit in reverse, then chattering at speed, then picked up a vibration. Nothing rubbing on the driveshaft, so out it came for inspection. Hmmm:   I don't like rust-colored dust anywhere near bearings. Felt a little crunchy when moving, too. Uh. Where the gently caress did they go? Remember that rust-colored dust? Yeah.   Spicer to the rescue! (in stock at O'Reilly's, even!)  Greasable, this time.  Genuine cop!: 
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Jan 18, 2016 22:46
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The spicers just got added to our regular store stock by corporate around the start of the year so I haven't even had a chance to sell 'em. Before that they were a pain to get ahold of. The mud truckers and hot rodder customers should be happy. 
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Jan 19, 2016 08:52
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Elmnt80 posted:The spicers just got added to our regular store stock by corporate around the start of the year so I haven't even had a chance to sell 'em. Before that they were a pain to get ahold of. The mud truckers and hot rodder customers should be happy. Hopefully also Subaru owners.
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Jan 19, 2016 17:18
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I don't think Spicer makes any subaru size ujoints. Rockford driveline does, though. Count on selling a lot of 5-153x, 5-760x, and 5-260x to jeep owners. Spicer and Neapco are the only good OEM level U-joint producers, most duralast/precision/moog grade U-joints tend to wear out early and often, and break easier when abused offroad.
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Jan 19, 2016 19:19
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kastein posted:I don't think Spicer makes any subaru size ujoints. Rockford driveline does, though. Glad I got the Spicers then, not that I'll be abusing a daily driver street car all that much. The OEM non-greasable joints lasted 10 years, after all.
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Jan 19, 2016 19:23
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Making preparations for purchasing a slightly broken 2002 Ranger for $500. I totally need a forth vehicle.
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Jan 20, 2016 00:21
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Making preparations for purchasing a slightly broken 2002 Ranger for $500. I totally need a forth vehicle. Are you going to write your own ECU in Forth?  
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Jan 20, 2016 03:22
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That guy is really excited to be programming an Atari 
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Jan 20, 2016 05:57
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Geoj posted:That guy is really excited to be programming an Atari Oh god I can't unsee it. 
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Jan 20, 2016 06:06
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Raluek posted:Are you going to write your own ECU in Forth? I need a fourth vehicle about as much as I need to learn  Forth
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Jan 20, 2016 07:07
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Raluek posted:Are you going to write your own ECU in Forth? I'm glad you made this pun so I didn't have to.  e: he might have to make a whole stack of forth ECUs.
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Jan 21, 2016 21:18
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kastein posted:e: he might have to make a whole stack of forth ECUs. Groannnnn
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Jan 21, 2016 21:50
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I changed my oil today. First time this year, I've not done it since 3000 miles ago! This is very exciting stuff, folks. Let me know if anyone is interested in the oil change procedure on my car.
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Jan 23, 2016 20:30
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Today i looked at the hole in my termostat that is slowly slowly releasing coolant at about 1 deciliter per month and said to myself "eh, next week".
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Jan 24, 2016 00:25
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I changed my oil today. First time this year, I've not done it since 3000 miles ago! This is very exciting stuff, folks. Let me know if anyone is interested in the oil change procedure on my car. I put synthetic in mine because gently caress taking that filter off more than once a year. You go in through the bottom? e: I finally got my hands on some front fender flares for the beater truck, put those on tonight (now it looks like every other GMT800 ever, hooray!). Also did its first oil change since purchase, lots of superfine metal on the plug magnet  And I spent another couple hours with the garden hose coaxing more mud out of the frame rails, I'm thinking another 3 sessions or so and it'll be clean enough down there to sort out my ABS and evap issues without worrying about filling my ABS module and/or fuel system with dirt. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Jan 24, 2016 |
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Jan 24, 2016 07:36
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Replaced the serpentine/accessory belt on my 328. The Contitech kit had a big printout of WARNING PULLEY HAS A BOLT RETAINING CLIP. REMOVE CLIP BEFORE INSTALLATION. Guess what I found on the pulley I took off the car? Yep, the retaining clip. Pretty sure the dealer changed this when they sold it as CPO. Good times. Also, put all seasons on and got an alignment. Good thing too, the RF was a good bit out of spec. The tuning shop doing the alignment also had to use the impact to break the tie rod free. I'm kind of guessing the local dealer didn't adjust that last year, since PA isn't bad enough to lock something like that up in less than a year. Kind of explains the odd wear though. Next up is the HVAC blower cage, the bearing is wearing and making noise. That part arrives Monday. Still doing pretty good for 92k. Only unexpected bit lately is the passenger seat occupancy sensor, and that wasn't completely awful, other than local dealer's estimate of $1k, and the coding price to their competitor for $250 after installing it myself.
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Jan 24, 2016 20:32
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Did another drain and fill on the trans (3rd one now, getting ~3 quarts per drain) and so far the colors have been black, black with a very slight red tint, and reddish black. I don't have enough fluid to do another drain and fill, so that's how she's going to stay for now. Also I flushed out the power steering fluid with Pentosin and pulled the headlight bulb that was out. Need to go to the store to pick up another today and drop it in since it doesn't appear in any catalog on what kind it is anywhere. It's a H10 bulb for a Volvo with HIDs (optional) and the manual just says "take it to volvo." Every parts store doesn't know what the gently caress to do since it's a separate DRL, not a low or high beam bulb. To boot, it's loving bolted in with 3 T10 hex bolts. Luckily, it's on the side that you can access it without pulling the headlight, which means pulling the bumper. The other side is surely to fail shortly.  Volvo.
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Jan 24, 2016 20:45
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Tommychu posted:You go in through the bottom? I wish my oil changes were that exciting! The general procedure is: 1. Warm up engine, jack up car. 2. Remove drain bolt (oil falls out). 3. Remove and replace filter (oil falls out here too). 4. RE-FIT THE loving DRAIN BOLT. 5. Check to see if drain bolt is there. 6. Remove oil cap. 7. Pour oil in general direction of engine. 8. Look vaguely at the dipstick. Run engine. Check for mess on driveway. Dispose of old oil. 9. Remove the jack before driving the car. 10. Do car things. 11. Repeat pretty much every 6-8 weeks.
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Jan 24, 2016 23:00
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Step 6 should be step 1, to save yourself some heartache when the cap is seized in place or one of those stupid ratchety ones chrysler liked using for ten years. That way you will never find yourself in the position of having drained the oil and discovering the fill cap is cemented in place. Bonus if you put the cap where it will prevent the hood from latching (in the latch catch assembly is a good spot) so you can't forget to put it back on, dispensing engine oil all over the top of the engine in the course of the first five miles after changing the oil. Source: official training manual at a quicklube shop, did probably five thousand oil changes before I bought my first car.
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Jan 24, 2016 23:50
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Yes, you're correct. Also i guess it may help speed up the oil draining, or may not. My post above was a joke post though, the assumption being that the majority of readers know the simple procedure for an oil change, and those who don't will not find enough information in my post above to complete it successfully. I don't put things in or near my hood latch, ever since I got the hood partly latched on a misplaced tool, and was unable to lower the hood enough to release the secondary latch.
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Jan 25, 2016 00:05
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Slung Blade and I did one drum on the Civic today! I really hate doing drums, it turns out, so I'm going to wuss out and send it to a shop for the second drum, brake bleeding and handbrake madness. Also we figured out that both rear tires are so worn that the carcass is wavy. It's either delaminating or the belts are coming loose. Here's the rear left:  Replaced both rear tires temporarily with tires from the $100 set of three tires + four wheels that I bought last week. I guess I'm going to go to Canadian Tire or something at some point this week to get either 13" or 14" tires that have their poo poo together enough to get the car to the shop. Also, something's probably bent in the rear since the new tires have nowhere near the same amount of camber on a nominally non-adjustable-camber rear suspension. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 00:48
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That's called cupping, and it's caused by worn suspension components. usually shocks, sometimes bushings.
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Jan 25, 2016 00:59
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Slung Blade and I did one drum on the Civic today! That wear pattern is classic blown shocks, especially on low-weight rear end vehicles. My wife's Fit's shocks wore out, and left her rear snows feathered like that. Swap on a new pair of shocks, or it'll eat the rear tires again.
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Jan 25, 2016 01:00
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Larrymer posted:Did another drain and fill on the trans (3rd one now, getting ~3 quarts per drain) and so far the colors have been black, black with a very slight red tint, and reddish black. I don't have enough fluid to do another drain and fill, so that's how she's going to stay for now. I'm bored and have access to a parts catalog and inventory system. Year and model? (Assuming US)
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Jan 25, 2016 01:21
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Elmnt80 posted:I'm bored and have access to a parts catalog and inventory system. Year and model? (Assuming US) 2006 Volvo V70 2.5T FWD AT.
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Jan 25, 2016 01:23
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It spits back h9 as the high beam, h11 as the high beam and D2r as the HID bulb at ~$100 each (look online). The h10 I can find pictures of online looks like a standard halogen bulb. The D2r looks like an actual HID and this in specific:  Edit: And a bit more looking shows an h10 bulb as a fog light which could also be listed as a 9145 bulb. Hope this helps.
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 01:34
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Larrymer posted:Did another drain and fill on the trans (3rd one now, getting ~3 quarts per drain) and so far the colors have been black, black with a very slight red tint, and reddish black. I don't have enough fluid to do another drain and fill, so that's how she's going to stay for now. Why not just pull the cooler return line and dump all the old fluid? It's less wasteful but doesn't get the fluid in the converter.
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Jan 25, 2016 01:38
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I wish my oil changes were that exciting! The general procedure is: Get a drain valve they are the best
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Jan 25, 2016 02:35
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Elmnt80 posted:The D2r looks like an actual HID That's because D2R is a HID bulb type for HID reflector housings. It has shielding to prevent glare, whereas a D2S bulb (intended for HID projector housings) is just bare glass end to end.
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Jan 25, 2016 02:52
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Yeah, that'd probably be why it looks like one of them there fancy hid bulbs. (I mentioned it and provided a picture so that he could look into the housing and double check if it was in fact a D2R like our catalog says or if it was an H10 (Which generally comes back as a fog light, but not one for his vehicle) like he thinks it is. Looking would provide him an easy way to assess what kind of bulb he needs without pulling the loving thing out. There are also several bulbs used in OEM "HID" headlights like the H1 bulb that don't look like the D2R, because the H1 is just a loving halogen bulb. Don't be a oval office.)
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Jan 25, 2016 03:33
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