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I didn't think it was a good sign that the oil consumption test was free from the dealership. Hopefully my car will be covered under this lawsuit.
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Jan 14, 2016 16:43
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crazzy posted:Eh, not so much a technology problem as a price tag problem. Focus RS engine has a HPFP on it enabling better lean burn and fuel atomization (while still hitting emissions targets). Subaru bean counters are notoriously cheap and I can't see them shelling out the couple extra hundred per engine for what the HPFP system costs (pump, hardware, fancier injectors, stronger rails for 2000+ PSI) That's fair. They could do it, but it would significantly raise the cost of the car. I pinged my son on the Oil consumption test. It's 10.3 ounces (1/3 of a quart) over 1200 miles. You can do it yourself by doing an oil change, take a picture of where the oil is on the dipstick three times (check it 3 times and take 3 pictures), drive 1200 miles, then check it 3 time again (take pictures). Make sure the car is at the same state for both tests . Park it on a level surface after driving a few miles, wait 10 minutes, etc. Most cars pass the test, very few fail.
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Jan 15, 2016 01:19
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Re oil consumption: When I was looking at Outbacks early last year I read about this issue. While it seemed like there were many people who had this issue, I realized that people are more likely to use the internet to voice their frustrations than to voice their satisfaction.
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Jan 17, 2016 00:57
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Just put a Curt tow hitch on my 16 WRX. It took me 4.5 hours and was a colossal pain in the rear end, especially when having to fish the spacer and bolts through the frame of the car. Anyway, I finally got everything back, but after putting the hitch on and lifting the exhaust back up, I can't for the life of me get the 2 rubber muffler exhaust hangers reattached (the ones right next to the spare tire pan) because A) the rod is way too long to stretch the hanger back over and B) the hitch is just plain in the way of getting more than like 4 fingers up there and no tools. After dicking with it for a half hour, I just said gently caress it and called it a day. The other 2 muffler hangers (the ones near the outside of the car) were reattached with no problem. Should I be ok without having those 2 hangers attached? It seems pretty secure since the other 2 plus the one on the center pipe are on. I really don't see how it's possible to reattach those 2 fuckers. e:  This is the rod that I can't get the hanger to stretch back over after the exhaust is lifted back up. I thought about just hack sawing an inch or two off.   
Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 01:29
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hello subaru friends! As you may or may not know I own this;  It is a 2001 AU market Legacy/Liberty B4 (EJ208D twin turbo motor). You may know it from one of my threads Blatant excuse to post a photo of my car aside, I would like to ask for some help with a few stupid questions. I have a loud sort of droning whine coming from somewhere in the drivetrain; it appears at just under 60km/h (~35mph) and goes away above 80km/h (~50mph). Pitch varies with speed. It also only happens while on-throttle, while coasting or braking it's not present. I'm having some trouble identifying where it's coming from; Dad thinks it's coming from the rear which immediately screams diff whine, but to me it sounds like it's coming from the front end of the car and a couple people driving along next to me agree with that (though they're not sure either). It's a 5MT with an open front diff and an LSD center/rear. The transmission (and thus center/front diff) oil was supposedly changed out about a year and 500 miles ago with the proper recommended synthetic stuff (the level, at least, is correct, and the fluid looks clean), but I have no clue as to the condition of the rear diff. My question is, is there something else that fits this profile other than diff whine of some kind? I don't expect you to come up with anything but figured it couldn't hurt to ask before I go spending another $100 on new trans/diff oil and spend an hour+ under the car draining/filling. 2nd question: in a similar vein, I have a sort of wooshing, bearing-y sound coming from the front end of the car when I am coasting (goes away on-throttle and under braking). Again, this seems fairly obviously to be front wheel bearings, but I wanted to ask in case there's something else I'm missing that fits the profile. I was planning to come here with recordings of the noises but I don't appear to have a sufficiently decent microphone with which to record them. The sound I think is diff whine is actually really quite loud. literally a fish fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 09:55
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Put a 3 port boost solenoid and dump pipe on my specb gt wagon and holy poo poo has it woken up after a tune. Predictably, he bagged the standard tune, but he knew his poo poo and gives free retunes for life. Feels like the poor man s4 avant i always wanted.
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Jan 17, 2016 15:05
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literally a fish posted:hello subaru friends! I did up a post in this thread a while back detailing how I fixed this noise in my 04 Impreza, the culprit is worn roller bearings in the center differential. They receive insufficient lubrication from factory design. I'll try to link it here but I'm on the Awful mobile app and I dunno if I can link posts. Edit: wow that was easy Edit not so easy attempt #2 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2973186&pagenumber=613&perpage=40#post450512127 stevobob fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 16:23
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About 400 miles ago I did the brakes on my 04 wrx wagon. New centric rotors and stoptech pads from rock auto. Now my rear drivers side rotor has some scoring/grooves. Enough to catch a fingernail on, but pretty minor. Any idea if this is caused by debris under the pad, pad issues, or installation error? They showed up pretty abruptly.
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Jan 17, 2016 17:13
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stevobob posted:I did up a post in this thread a while back detailing how I fixed this noise in my 04 Impreza, the culprit is worn roller bearings in the center differential. They receive insufficient lubrication from factory design. I'll try to link it here but I'm on the Awful mobile app and I dunno if I can link posts. Having had a quick listen to your video, yep, that's the sound i'm hearing. Oh gawd, I really don't want to gently caress transmission internals myself. Good to know I can DIY if I want to, though. Thanks 
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Jan 17, 2016 22:28
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Just put a Curt tow hitch on my 16 WRX. It took me 4.5 hours and was a colossal pain in the rear end, especially when having to fish the spacer and bolts through the frame of the car. I don't have an answer, but did you take the bumper off or have to drill any holes?
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Jan 18, 2016 16:56
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:rod that I can't get the hanger to stretch back over after the exhaust is lifted back up. I thought about just hack sawing an inch or two off. Take the hanger off, put long rod through, lift up, attach to small rod. Those hangers are flexible and you do sometimes need to stretch the poo poo outta em and lube them up to get them on. Cold weather will not help at all I'm afraid.
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Jan 19, 2016 06:17
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FogHelmut posted:I don't have an answer, but did you take the bumper off or have to drill any holes? No I didn't have to take the bumper off. If you install the Eco hitch, you do. As for hole drilling, I only had to widen a hole on each side of the frame to fit the spacer and bolt through. That was a pain in the dick because I don't have an air compressor or a die grinder. I ended up using a dremel of all things and wearing out 6-8 tips. Eventually I got it wide enough to fish the parts through. si posted:Take the hanger off, put long rod through, lift up, attach to small rod. Those hangers are flexible and you do sometimes need to stretch the poo poo outta em and lube them up to get them on. Cold weather will not help at all I'm afraid. So you mean attach the hangar to the muffler with the long rod first THEN attach it to the rod on the frame of the car? That makes more sense actually, although the hitch makes it nearly impossible to get more than a few fingers (no tools) up in there. I'll give it a shot though. I did notice that while the exhaust is fine using only the 3 hangers, it has some side to side movement and rattles up against the hitch, so I do have to attach them all.
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Jan 19, 2016 09:25
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I installed a Curt on my 2008 wagon and gently caress drilling and all that noise, I pulled the bumper because it's way easier and doesn't breach the anti-corrosion stuff on the steel, such as it is. I ended up using a little dish soap on the rubbers to slide them back on. Using a nice long handled screwdriver didn't hurt either.
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Jan 19, 2016 12:04
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I found it was much easier to maneuver the exhaust hangers after a liberal coating of aerosol grease of your favorite flavor. Makes them much easier to slide around and you need less fingers to maneuver.
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Jan 19, 2016 13:34
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How can you get fingers in there and not a muffler hanger tool?
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Jan 19, 2016 15:52
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Every time I get a twinge of "maybe I can get by with a sedan", another person pops into this thread with hitch install stories that set me back on the right track.
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Jan 19, 2016 17:02
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Yeah, I used some lubricant to pull them off easier.Splizwarf posted:How can you get fingers in there and not a muffler hanger tool? I did use this to get them off: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012S9A5U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 It doesn't help much getting them back on, especially when there's a hitch in the way.
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Jan 19, 2016 17:35
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si posted:Take the hanger off, put long rod through, lift up, attach to small rod. Those hangers are flexible and you do sometimes need to stretch the poo poo outta em and lube them up to get them on. Cold weather will not help at all I'm afraid. Silicone spray makes it seem like magic, especially after you've spent 15 minutes trying to wrestle rusty metal into stiff rubber.
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Jan 19, 2016 18:11
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The pliers really only work for removal. Hook on a stick lets you put the hook through on of the unused holes in the rubber and yank it up the shaft. :bigtran: Also silicone lube is god in this scenario. Lube everything all the time.
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Jan 19, 2016 20:57
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Hose them down for reinstall, it made maneuvering everything so much easier.
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Jan 19, 2016 20:58
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:So you mean attach the hangar to the muffler with the long rod first THEN attach it to the rod on the frame of the car? That makes more sense actually, although the hitch makes it nearly impossible to get more than a few fingers (no tools) up in there. I'll give it a shot though. Yes, you'll need them all. You might want to take a tub of hot water and soak them in it to keep them warm until you do it. Other option is fully unbolt the axlebacks, get them onto the hangars, then bolt them back up. Basically make the hardest connections first, easiest last. The hanger connections tend to be the hardest, so easier to do before it's all bolted up.
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Jan 19, 2016 21:00
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Splizwarf posted:How can you get fingers in there and not a muffler hanger tool? I think I could fanagle this up through the hitch. What is the name of this? Muffler hanger tool only pops up tools like the one I posted/used.
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Jan 19, 2016 21:50
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Autozone: OEM/Exhaust donut stretcher with offset J-hook Part Number: 25543
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Jan 20, 2016 03:57
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Thanks! Just picked one up.
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Jan 20, 2016 18:50
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Saw this on my facebook feed and I let out a chuckle. 
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Jan 24, 2016 05:27
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Doesn't look like it's out of control 
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Jan 24, 2016 16:22
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I'm kicking around the idea of selling my '04 FXT. As much as I love that drat car, it's not really meeting my needs anymore. I bought a house a few months back and have a few projects that require a truck to haul poo poo. If it were just that, I'd pick up a cheap utility trailer or rent one when I need it, but I do a lot of camping and my wife's Pathfinder can only hold so much stuff while towing a camper. Anyway, my question for you all really is how much I can expect get when/if I sell the FXT? It's a manual with ~113,000 miles on it. Mechanically, there's not a drat thing wrong with it. I've done the maintenance (including the dreaded timing belt) and kept on top of any problems. The body, however is...well it looks like a 13 year old car. The clear coat on the hood and the roof rails is starting to go and there's a decent dent in the liftgate, as well as the usual scratches and poo poo one would expect for a 13 year old car. There's no body or frame rust though, as it's been in the southern US its whole life. Interior is in real good shape. It's completely stock. There's a couple of cosmetic things I'd fix as well as a really good cleaning job before trying to sell it (e.g. the rusty wiper arms). Here's a few (lovely) pictures of the car as it sits now:     Most of the examples I found on craigslists have been modified or seem ridiculous, and there aren't many out there to compare it to. I'm open to suggestions!
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Jan 25, 2016 16:37
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DAT RAM posted:I'm kicking around the idea of selling my '04 FXT. Subaru nutters will pay top dollar for your car. I'd guess around 8-10k easily. I'd probably start it at 12k and see what offers you get.
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Jan 25, 2016 17:27
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The idler pulley bearing failed on my sister's '00 ll bean outback and she wants to also replace the bracket because it's looking pretty beat. That's the power steering pump bracket no. 22870AA042, right?
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Jan 25, 2016 19:23
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Is no one selling their WRX wagons/hatches? We are starting to consider selling our 04 but searches for any wrxs in the DC area show very little. Are owners not selling because Subaru is not making any more?
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Jan 25, 2016 20:53
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Are owners not selling because Subaru is not making any more? Bingo. I would have traded my '11 in on a new gen by now if I could get a hatch. But I'm holding on to it until I can get something comparable.
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Jan 25, 2016 21:22
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Larrymer posted:Subaru nutters will pay top dollar for your car. I'd guess around 8-10k easily. I'd probably start it at 12k and see what offers you get. That seems very realistic to me. I was looking for a manual WRX wagon, FXT, or LGT wagon a while back and searched for about 6 months. A good FXT with a manual with less than 130,000 would bring at least 9k all day long. I test drove an 07 with 135 and wound up passing on it, but the seller would not budge from 10k. Post some pictures of it all cleaned up on CL and tumescent weirdos like me will flock to it from all over the place with cash in hand.
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Jan 26, 2016 03:31
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Make sure you mention that you didn't do any mods.
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Jan 26, 2016 20:12
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Thanks all. Once tax returns start coming in I'll probably go ahead and list it since people gonna have that money burning a hole in their pockets.
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Jan 27, 2016 13:18
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My WRX is lowered on Prodrive springs. Does this affect which struts I should be using? The car's got 90k miles on it and as far as I know they're the stock struts, should I be thinking about replacing them in the near future?
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Jan 27, 2016 20:57
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Fifty Three posted:My WRX is lowered on Prodrive springs. Does this affect which struts I should be using? The car's got 90k miles on it and as far as I know they're the stock struts, should I be thinking about replacing them in the near future?
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Jan 27, 2016 21:06
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Fifty Three posted:My WRX is lowered on Prodrive springs. Does this affect which struts I should be using? The car's got 90k miles on it and as far as I know they're the stock struts, should I be thinking about replacing them in the near future? Yup. Stock struts aren't really designed for lowering springs. I'd get something else that is.
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Jan 27, 2016 21:38
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There are a few decent options you assuming it's an 02-07 sedan. After having some issues and going away for awhile, Tokico has two struts available- HP blues and d-specs, and then there are konis and the kyb agx. I think agx or blues would be the best value at under $150 a piece. d-specs are like $900 a set. I can get you more accurate numbers if you want.
jamal fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jan 27, 2016 |
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Jan 27, 2016 22:05
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I'm at about 84k miles on the factory struts. Ride's nice and pillowy soft. When do I know they're dying? When a bump sends me up and down continuously?
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Jan 28, 2016 00:26
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What are the brake pads everyone recommends? StopTech? This is for a 2013 WRX FWIW.
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Jan 28, 2016 02:15
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