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I can rationalize that the effect is close to nill, especially for a home cook. It's a problem I have buying anything. If there are two options with even just a color difference I will try and find the "best," even if the effort consumed doing so is a massively larger opportunity cost than just pulling the trigger.
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Jan 25, 2016 20:30
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:I've never used HAP40, but one thing on the Kurosaki R2, it's very much a rockers knife, don't expect to chop or push cut with it. For my own curiosity, what makes it a rockers' knife? The shape of the blade looks like pretty much the same as the other knives in that post. I'd like to understand these things better.
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Jan 25, 2016 21:05
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Kylaer posted:For my own curiosity, what makes it a rockers' knife? The shape of the blade looks like pretty much the same as the other knives in that post. I'd like to understand these things better. I'm curious about this as well. Also, if what you're looking for is just a workhorse, I'd care less about how the finish will look. I understand that we all want a knife that looks nice on top of performing well, but I always put performance first, and if the finish isn't 100% my ideal aesthetically or it's likely to develop a lot of patina, I'm willing to overlook it if the knife feels and performs exactly how I'd like. Speaking of workhorses, can anyone recommend a boning knife that can stand up to lots of de-boning chickens and cleaning up beef ribs on basically a daily basis? I'm getting sick of using the cheap house de-boners at work, since they get beat up and run through the dishwasher and a pull-through sharpener all the time.
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Jan 25, 2016 21:25
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Kylaer posted:For my own curiosity, what makes it a rockers' knife? The shape of the blade looks like pretty much the same as the other knives in that post. I'd like to understand these things better. According to a number of people who have gotten it or handled one, including one person I trust, it does not really have a flat spot at all. Most gyutos have a gentle curve all the way through the length of the blade but there is usually an area, about 1/3rd or 1/2 of the length of the blade, that is flat enough that you can make good contact with the board and do push cuts and chopping with. This one has a pronounced enough curve the whole way down the edge that push cuts and chopping don't really work. Oldsrocket_27 posted:I'm curious about this as well. I agree on the finish part, I'm not a huge fan of the finish on my Kamo but it's my best knife for most ingredients, though I will say that the finish grows on you.
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Jan 25, 2016 22:15
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Mr. Wookums posted:I can rationalize that the effect is close to nill, especially for a home cook. It's a problem I have buying anything. If there are two options with even just a color difference I will try and find the "best," even if the effort consumed doing so is a massively larger opportunity cost than just pulling the trigger. There's research suggesting that people tend to be either "maximizers" or "satisficers" in purchases. Maximizers do lots of research and want to find the best, satisficers find something that's fine and call it a day. That research indicates that satisficers are generally happier. I'm a maximizer by nature too. I try to think about that research to try to curtail those tendencies.
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Jan 26, 2016 01:24
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My wife and I have been cooking together a lot more lately. I've noticed that she's very much a rocker, whereas I'm totally a push cutter. I'm not really in the market for a knife right now, but just out of curiosity, which type of knife would best suit our specific knife styles?
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Jan 26, 2016 14:54
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The Midniter posted:My wife and I have been cooking together a lot more lately. I've noticed that she's very much a rocker, whereas I'm totally a push cutter. I'm not really in the market for a knife right now, but just out of curiosity, which type of knife would best suit our specific knife styles? Pretty much any knife that has both a decent bit of belly and a decent flat spot, most chef's knives and gyutos fall into this category.
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Jan 26, 2016 15:56
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Kylaer posted:For my own curiosity, what makes it a rockers' knife? Sick guitar licks
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Jan 26, 2016 20:34
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The Midniter posted:My wife and I have been cooking together a lot more lately. I've noticed that she's very much a rocker, whereas I'm totally a push cutter. I'm not really in the market for a knife right now, but just out of curiosity, which type of knife would best suit our specific knife styles? 
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Jan 26, 2016 23:15
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SubG posted:One of each. How do you like the Rhino? It looks badass but I have too many knives, a CCK small cleaver being one of them.
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Jan 30, 2016 00:33
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I have a question about one of my kitchen knives. I have a Le Crueset kitchen knife that is probably from the 80's or 90's. It could be older. My knife guy loving hates it and insists that it's one of the hardest knives to sharpen he has ever come across. He says he would bet it's Pakistani junk steel. My research shows Le Creuset knives are loving $200-300 a piece and made in either France or England. Any of you guys know about these knives?
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Jan 30, 2016 06:07
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Captain Log posted:I have a question about one of my kitchen knives. I have a Le Crueset kitchen knife that is probably from the 80's or 90's. It could be older. My knife guy loving hates it and insists that it's one of the hardest knives to sharpen he has ever come across. He says he would bet it's Pakistani junk steel. My research shows Le Creuset knives are loving $200-300 a piece and made in either France or England. With the knife being that old it's hard to say, it's possible it's crap or a knockoff or that it's actually quite good. Is there anything he said specifically about what makes the knife a pain to sharpen? Like if it has a full bolster those suck rear end for sharpening.
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Jan 30, 2016 06:29
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^^^ Nothing to do with that particular knife, but I've noticed when trying to sharpen knives for friends and such, the truly lovely Walmart-grade knives seem unexpectedly hard to sharpen. I mean, I'd expect low-grade steel to sharpen easily and dull easily, that'd make sense, right? But it seems like they just glide across the rods on the Sharpmaker I use and never remove any metal to improve the edge. It's like the rods won't "bite," even the coarse one, is there an explanation for this? SubG posted:One of each. The top one looks like  in knife form. Not saying it's a bad design, just rather odd looking. And I'm surprised you'd suggest the lower one for push cutting, since there's definitely not a flat spot on that blade.
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Jan 30, 2016 15:34
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:With the knife being that old it's hard to say, it's possible it's crap or a knockoff or that it's actually quite good. Is there anything he said specifically about what makes the knife a pain to sharpen? Like if it has a full bolster those suck rear end for sharpening. I'm really curious now. The guy I use is no joke (Davis Cookware and Cutlery) and he says it is one of the worst knives he has ever run across. But it does good work in the kitchen so I don't really know what the gently caress. It was my grandfather's and I doubt he would buy a knock off. But who knows. I'm just curious as all get out about the history. The kitchen I work in now I'm only an expo so I don't take my roll with me to work. I might take it in and see what some of the guys think about it.
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Jan 31, 2016 05:08
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Captain Log posted:I'm really curious now. The guy I use is no joke (Davis Cookware and Cutlery) and he says it is one of the worst knives he has ever run across. But it does good work in the kitchen so I don't really know what the gently caress. It was my grandfather's and I doubt he would buy a knock off. But who knows. I'm just curious as all get out about the history. Ah yes, the polarizing Davis Cookware and Cutlery. What restaurant do you work at if you don't mind my asking?
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Jan 31, 2016 16:03
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FishBowlRobot posted:How do you like the Rhino? It looks badass but I have too many knives, a CCK small cleaver being one of them. Kylaer posted:The top one looks like About, I dunno, 75% of the veg prep I do is push cutting, and you can see by the pattern of the patina on the blade more or less how that works---spine of the blade at a slight angle to the cutting board, using the forwardmost third or so of the blade. It's flat enough to e.g. cut a basil or Italian parsley leaf lying flat on a poly cutting board, or gravity cut its way through a tomato, celery stalk, or what have you. That's good enough for me.
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Jan 31, 2016 22:20
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I'm not meaning to argue with you, I'm just thinking back to this knife mentioned previously which is apparently meant for rock-chopping, even though to my eyes it looks to have more of a flat area than the CCK. I've got a CCK of my own and it's nice, although my personal preference runs more towards gyutos.
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Feb 1, 2016 01:21
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Kylaer posted:I'm not meaning to argue with you, I'm just thinking back to this knife mentioned previously which is apparently meant for rock-chopping, even though to my eyes it looks to have more of a flat area than the CCK. I've got a CCK of my own and it's nice, although my personal preference runs more towards gyutos. It's very hard to judge the curve from pictures, hell, one of the people who bought one and thought it would be fine is a pro chef with over twenty years in the industry and a large collection of knives and they could not tell it had too much curve until it was in their hands and on a board.
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Feb 1, 2016 01:28
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FishBowlRobot posted:Ah yes, the polarizing Davis Cookware and Cutlery. What restaurant do you work at if you don't mind my asking? I work at Table 3 which has very legit French cooking. (Legit French cooking = Enough butter to kill you in a small dish) I've been on and off in the industry for over fifteen years and know a lot of Nashville people. Are you a local? Edit : I loving love Davis Cutlery. That guy has given me free poo poo and done frequent free knife sharpenings for me. But loving GOD don't go there unless you have time to chat.
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Feb 1, 2016 04:30
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Captain Log posted:I work at Table 3 which has very legit French cooking. (Legit French cooking = Enough butter to kill you in a small dish) Yeah, I work at Two Ten Jack in East Nashville. I don't post a whole lot but I always recognize your av from the regional and UFC threads. I've only purchased one knife from there, a cleaver that I ended up giving away. The guy helping me was kind of weird about me wanting to hold a knife in my hand to get a feel for it. He didn't want me to get fingerprints on the blade. But he did give me a free blade guard so that's cool. They have a lot of cool kitchen items there but since they only carry American/European knives I haven't bought anything else from them.
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Feb 1, 2016 08:23
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FishBowlRobot posted:Yeah, I work at Two Ten Jack in East Nashville. I don't post a whole lot but I always recognize your av from the regional and UFC threads. Two Ten Jack was fantastic when I visited with my wife in Spring 2014. Wonderful taste of Japan. How do they push Sake thru the beer taps without it carbonating like beer? Just like sake in a bladder within a pressurized container(modified keg) or something?
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Feb 1, 2016 14:23
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extravadanza posted:Two Ten Jack was fantastic when I visited with my wife in Spring 2014. Wonderful taste of Japan. How do they push Sake thru the beer taps without it carbonating like beer? Just like sake in a bladder within a pressurized container(modified keg) or something? It only takes 1-2 psi to dispense, to carbonate beer you set it at 10-15. It will never really carbonate when held at a really low psi.
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Feb 1, 2016 18:08
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rockcity posted:It only takes 1-2 psi to dispense, to carbonate beer you set it at 10-15. It will never really carbonate when held at a really low psi. Yea I guess I never considered the fact that you need significantly less to fill up a sake portion and a slower pour would be desirable. I keg my own beer and carbonate around 25 psi and serve around 10 psi, never experimented with how long it would take to see signs of carbonation at extremely low psi.
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Feb 1, 2016 19:19
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extravadanza posted:Yea I guess I never considered the fact that you need significantly less to fill up a sake portion and a slower pour would be desirable. I keg my own beer and carbonate around 25 psi and serve around 10 psi, never experimented with how long it would take to see signs of carbonation at extremely low psi. At that psi I highly doubt you'd ever see any noticeable carbonation. The sake can't absorb more co2 past the pressure set in the keg, which if you assume similar absorption to beer (I actually think it's worse) you would only get to something like .25-.5 volumes which basically negligible.
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Feb 1, 2016 19:48
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FishBowlRobot posted:Yeah, I work at Two Ten Jack in East Nashville. I don't post a whole lot but I always recognize your av from the regional and UFC threads. John, the main guy (late fifties/early sixties and a full head of hair...i think) and son of the eighty something year old guy that started it is crazy friendly and never weird with me and knives. His brother (wears suspenders, has a belly, older looking) is really cranky but just in that kid of "what an old character!" sort of endearing way. John has a chop block collection and has been trying to get me to sell him mine for ages but it's a family heirloom and my mom would freak. He keeps Japanese stuff when he can get a decent price on it. If you get him talking about cleavers he will bust out his collection of antique cleavers that are really drat cool. To anyone visiting Nashville I REALLY recommend checking in. Just make sure you talk to John. I need to visit East Nashville. I left Nashville from 2011 to 2015 and the culinary scene there is thriving and I know dick all about it. I've been familiar with most of the Green Hills/Hillsboro Village/West End people forever though. If you ever want to get some straightforward classic french cuisine check out Table 3. It isn't cutting edge but they are legit. Their charcuterie is all made in house too...which is God damned incredible.
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Feb 2, 2016 01:39
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I cashed in all of my Amazon gift cards from the past 2 years and bought a Mac Pro 245 gyuto. I guess the pattern is based on the Sabatier; minus the bolster, but it seems to have less belly than a typical traditional French chef's knife. It doesn't rock nearly as well as the Fibrox I've been keeping sharp with the Edgepro knockoff and upgraded stones. It does push cuts like butter though. It was pretty sharp out of the box, but I had it sharpened by a Japanese knife shop, and it is really razor sharp now. I'm still a little worried about sharpening it myself, as I've scuffed up all my other knives on the FakePro. I keep it honed with a smooth, hard steel, and overall it has been a really pleasant introduction to Japanese knives.
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Feb 2, 2016 03:35
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uninterrupted posted:Speaking of chinese cleavers, are there any suggestions for a stainless steel chinese cleaver? I picked up a shibazi S-D1 and I really like it. You can get one on amazon here. I've had pretty good luck with shibazi stuff in general, nice fit and finish.
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Feb 5, 2016 05:15
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So I've got a Koch Messer chef knife, which seams to be a cheap chinese brand. The blade's slightly warped, and the edge is in pretty sorry state; there's a few tiny nicks, and I can press my thumb against the edge with considerable pressure without cutting myself; i have to use a sawing motion to cut through onions, for example. Worth getting sharpened or just replace it on the cheap? A solution in the ~$50 range would be nice.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:34
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Enourmo posted:So I've got a Koch Messer chef knife, which seams to be a cheap chinese brand. The blade's slightly warped, and the edge is in pretty sorry state; there's a few tiny nicks, and I can press my thumb against the edge with considerable pressure without cutting myself; i have to use a sawing motion to cut through onions, for example. Replace it with a Victorinox Fibrox Chef's Knife.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:37
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TheQuietWilds posted:Replace it with a Victorinox Fibrox Chef's Knife. I think I heard Victorinox recommended elsewhere so I guess that's a solid rec. $34 with Amazon Prime, and now that I'm living on my own I can keep the drat thing out of the dishwasher consistently (  )
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Feb 8, 2016 23:40
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Enourmo posted:I think I heard Victorinox recommended elsewhere so I guess that's a solid rec. $34 with Amazon Prime, and now that I'm living on my own I can keep the drat thing out of the dishwasher consistently ( Having a Victorinox Fibrox, they're probably the most knife for the money on the market with chef knives. I got my special lady friend a Tojiro DP series santoku, and I really like it. Their roughly 8" gyuto I think is only $60 or so whenever they have it. I only mention it because I really like the edge their steel takes, and it seems to keep one better than the Victorinox steel.
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Feb 9, 2016 01:37
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I'm ready for a good chef knife. I've been using a Wolfgang Puck high carbon steel set for the past 6 years or so, and have gotten by well enough with regular sharpening. But I have a Henckels International boning knife, and that gets noticeably sharper. Is there any major differences between Wusthof Classic and Henckels Pro? I'm leaning towards a western knife, and also I have some gift cards to Bed Bath & Beyond.
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Feb 9, 2016 05:40
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Either should be fine. Just get one without a bulky finger guard, they'll get in the way when you sharpen (I think both are phasing out bulky finger guards in their newer lines)
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Feb 9, 2016 05:41
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FogHelmut posted:Is there any major differences between Wusthof Classic and Henckels Pro? I'm leaning towards a western knife, and also I have some gift cards to Bed Bath & Beyond. But either one you're paying a lot of money for not a lot of knife. It's like yes they are real forged construction, but they're using the same low-hardness stainless as a cheaper stamped victorinox or whatever. Nicer fit and finish is most of what you're paying for. (Just looked at the BB&B website and they do sell the victorinox, at a stupid markup but if you got giftcards to spend then the fact that it's $15 more than on amazon maybe isn't important.)
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Feb 9, 2016 08:08
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Klyith posted:Wusthofs have a lot of belly / curve to them. If you are a dedicated rocking chopper who likes an exaggerated curve you will like it. If you do other types of cutting motion they kinda suck. Henckles isn't quite so german with the profile on most of their chef's knives (some are though, they have a ton of models). I'm looking at 57-58 on the hardness scale, is that bad? I saw some of the Japanese knives get into the 61+ range, but my thinking was the German knives seem more what I'm used to, and I don't have to baby them so much. I can slice and cut and chop and hack and slash and not worry about chipping or whatever else. Being able to push cut with ease sounds a dream, but is it going to limit me in other places? And I'm sitting on a buttload of gift cards to BB&B from my wedding a year and a half ago. I spent two hours there last week just buying stuff I don't really need, and I feel guilty shopping there in the first place because its generally overpriced. And my mom just gave me a gift card for house warming. How many $40 bath towels do I need? Might as well buy some knives.
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Feb 9, 2016 16:27
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When I first started cooking I bought a nice Henckels. I use it now for things I wouldn't use any of my nice knives on. I feel like there are a ton of advantages to Japanese style knives and as a beginner you'll adapt just fine. Companies like Shun make Japanese style blades with Western geometry. You can check out them and Global for a knife with better steel and a better edge but still with some belly.
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Feb 9, 2016 16:45
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Chemmy posted:When I first started cooking I bought a nice Henckels. I use it now for things I wouldn't use any of my nice knives on. Most of mine are Japanese knives, other than my Victorinox chef's and paring, but I sometimes worry that they're actually less versatile because they're so hard. I worry that I'll chip the blade on a stray bone, or on a hard squash, or whatever.
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Feb 9, 2016 16:48
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guppy posted:Most of mine are Japanese knives, other than my Victorinox chef's and paring, but I sometimes worry that they're actually less versatile because they're so hard. I worry that I'll chip the blade on a stray bone, or on a hard squash, or whatever. You really don't need to worry about that, I use some really expensive, really thin gyutos and as long as you are careful and don't try to cut through a bone directly you will be fine. I've cut right up against bone with my thinest gyuto and its never gotten chipped and hard squash is no problem. You just can't slam them into things and treat them like poo poo, gotta use a little finesse. Also you will see some micro-chipping over time, that is normal and just means that you need to resharpen the knife.
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Feb 9, 2016 17:20
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Klyith posted:Wusthofs have a lot of belly / curve to them. If you are a dedicated rocking chopper who likes an exaggerated curve you will like it. If you do other types of cutting motion they kinda suck. Henckles isn't quite so german with the profile on most of their chef's knives (some are though, they have a ton of models). The most recent Henckels Pro 38401 has a much more pronounced belly on it than their usual profile They also have a different Henckels Pro 38411 which, as far as I can tell, is a Sur La Table exclusive, and has a less pronounced belly. They really look almost the same though so I was able to get one for half price because they were trying to clear out the 38401's and put the clearance sticker on the 38411 which I preferred. When I pointed out the mistake they gave me an additional discount I guess. So yeah, too many knifes. guppy posted:Most of mine are Japanese knives, other than my Victorinox chef's and paring, but I sometimes worry that they're actually less versatile because they're so hard. I worry that I'll chip the blade on a stray bone, or on a hard squash, or whatever. It might be a good idea to have one thin whippy Japanese knife and one beater western knife so that you don't have to worry about damaging your Japanese knife on bones and other hard objects Steve Yun fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Feb 10, 2016 |
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Feb 10, 2016 00:41
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gently caress it, going full retard. Suisin High-Carbon Steel Gyutou. After resharpening my Chinese potmetal Wolfgang Puck knife, I'm more than happy with this as a hack and slash. edit - poo poo, do I want the Suisin or the Togiharu? Suisin is 58 hardness, Togiharu is 62. I think that's the only difference? http://korin.com/Suisin-High-Carbon-Steel-Gyutou http://korin.com/Togiharu-Virgin-Carbon-Steel-Gyutou?sc=27&category=363206 FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Feb 10, 2016 |
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Feb 10, 2016 05:10
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